A 



JOURNAL OF TRAVELS 



I N 



EGYPT, ARABIA PETRJJA, 



HOLY LAND, 



By DAVID MILLARD, 

PROFESSOR OF BIBLICAL ANTIQUITIES AND SACRED GEOGRAPHY, IN THE 
THEOLOGICAL SCHOOL AT MEADVILLE, PA. 



. AT MEADVILLE, PA. 

f fir ^&&u~K<f^ x 
n Ou^a. ft,' 

IFT'H EDITION. J 



F 



NEW-YORK: 



PUBLISHED BY NAFIS & CORNISH 
ST. LOUIS, Mo.: VAN DIEN & McDONALD. 



1 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1843, by 

P^vjp MILLARD, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
Northern District of New-York. 



By Transfer 
D. C. Public Library 
NOV 2 8 1941 



COMMENDATIONS. 

From among the various literary notices taken of this work we select 
the following:— 

"Journal of Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petr^ea and the Holy 
Land, by David Millard. — A more interesting work of the kind, we 
think, has rarely ever been brought before the public v The subject 
treated upon recommends itself, and those who wish to save time and 
gain information will find this volume a valuable companion. A general 
fault with descriptive works of this part of the globe is the size — so 
numerous are the thoughts that crowd on the writer — here, however, we 
find the whole happily condensed within reasonable limits, and with 
language so w 7 ell chosen that the reader may intellectually follow the 
guidance of the author. The writer thinks, and we agree with him, 
' that no volume of equal dimensions can be found to contain more infor- 
mation on the countries of which it treats than this.' We have no 
personal acquaintance with the author, and know not his religious senti- 
ments, but we are persuaded that, while all readers will find something in 
the book that will please them, no Christian will find that with which 
he will have cause to be displeased."- — Religious Recorder. 



" We deem this volume the most interesting book of travels relating to 
the countries of which it treats, that has come under our inspection. Its 
condensed form, and concise manner, together with the richness of its 
matter, render it a valuable w T ork." — Monroe Republican. 

" This work possesses claims of merit not always found in books of the 
kind. The reader will be gratified with the perusal of it."- — Rochester 
Democrat. 

" I have read Millard's '' Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petrasa and the 
Holy Land.' It is well worth the price, (one dollar,) and cannot fail to 
interest readers of every class. Jt is to be hoped this book will circulate 
widely. ' ' — Christian Herald. 



w The readers of Millard's ' Journal of Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petrsea 
and the Holy Land,' so far as I can learn, are well pleased with the 
work. The author's descriptions are concise, but graphic and full of 
interest. The book deserves an extensive circulation." — Christian PaUa~ 
dium. 



Commendations. 



" In another column of this paper will be found an extract from Millard's 
' Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petrasa and the Holy Land,' lately published. 
By the way, this is a work of great merit, and is worthy of a place in 
every , library. Such is the interest kept up throughout the book that 
we are about certain if a reader begin it, he will want to read it 
through."' — Literaiy Wreath. 



Extract of a letter from the Hon. Samuel Young, late Secretaty of 
State, to the author. 

" Dear Sir :• — I have received yours of the 14th inst., and had some» 
time ago received your book of Travels in the East. So far as I have 
been able to examine your book, I think it unexceptionable both in 
matter and manner; and I sincerely wish that all the books in oui 
district libraries were equally meritorious." 



PREFACE. 



The main object of the journey, the leading incidents of 
which are detailed in the following sheets, is sufficiently ex- 
plained in the first chapter. While travelling for the benefit 
of my health, much of my time was employed in making 
critical observations and entering minutes of the result in 
my daily Journal. From what I now present, the reader 
will readily perceive that the task was one of considerable 
labor. The whole work is the result of my own personal 
observations, with some small additional aid derived by com- 
paring notes with works of previous travellers. 

Of my descriptive details, I fear not criticism, but rather 
court it. I am confident the more closely examined, the 
stronger will be the evidence of their entire correctness. In 
describing, I have aimed to do it in the most concise and 
plain manner, that the reader may take up this volume and 
intellectually travel the whole journey with me. I have 
aimed to shun all useless redundancy in language— avoid 
fanciful embellishments, and give plain, naked truth. Having 
no sect or party of men to please, I have written wholly 
independent of bias and prepossession. 

On many localities named in the Sacred History, the 
traveller in the East, will, at this late period, have necessa- 
rily to exercise his own judgment. In this particular, I 
claim not infallibility, but simply the right of speaking and 
thinking for myself. My decisions, however, are as open to 
criticism as those of others. Let them be tested by impartial 
investigation. While the ordinary reader will find in this 
volume much to please and interest him, the devout Christian 
will, I trust, find nothing incompatible with true piety. In 



vi. 



PREFACE. 



ranging over the principal scenery of the Bible, I saw con- 
tinually before me much, very much, to strengthen the faith 
of the Christian. I have consequently made occasional 
applications of matters and things as I saw them, to the 
word of sacred prophecy. No Christian can travel over the 
land of prophetic wonders, without there reading on the 
very face of nature, the truth of divine Revelation. 

It is confidently believed, that no volume of equal dimen- 
sions, can be found to contain more information on the 
countries of which this treats, than the one I here present. 
I have made no effort to see how much I could write, but 
have endeavored to see how much could be detailed within 
any thing like reasonable limits. The world is full of books, 
furnishing abundance for every one to read. Generally, at 
the present day, he who seeks information by reading, wishes 
to obtain it with as little unnecessary expense, labor and 
time, as may comport with the object of his pursuit. Give 
us multum in parvo, is the language of two-thirds of readers. 
Here, then, you have it in one volume. Finally, such as 
the work is, I commit it to an impartial public, hoping it will 
entertain all into whose hands it may fall, and especially 
aid the Christian to a more perfect understanding of the 
6acred oracles of God. 

THE AUTHOR. 

West Bloomfield, N. Y., Jan., 1843. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

Embarkation — Arrival at Malta — General Description — Its Inhabi- 
tants — Armory of the Knights of St. John— Excursion to Citta Vacchia 
— Cathedral — St. Paul's Uave — Catacombs — Excursion to St. Paul's 
Bay. - - - - - - - 11 

CHAPTER H. 

Departure from Malta — View of Mount iEtna — Scenery in Greece — 
A Greek Hermit — Patmos— Crete — Storm at Sea — Arrival at Alex- 
andria — Pompey's Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles — Miserable Abodes — 
Ruins of Cleopatra's Palace — Catacombs — Egyptian Dress — Present 
Appearance of Alexandria. - - 27 

CHAPTER IO. 

Arrangements for leaving Alexandria — Monopoly and Travellers' 
Rights— Setting out for Cairo — The Boat — Selim Hassan and the 
Boat's Crew — A Dilemma — Sudden Illness — Mahmoudieh Canal and 
Lake Mareotis — Oppressive Conscription and Awful Mortality — 
Military Encampment — Egyptian Threshing Floor — Arrival at Atfe — 
Description — Embarkation on the Nile — Egyptian Agriculture — Si- 
rocco — Visit to an Arab Village. - - - - 40 

CHAPTER IV. 

Continuance of the Sirocco — Visit to an Arab Village — A ludicrous 
Bluster — Village Scenery — Rain in Egypt — Slow Progress and Poor 
Prospects — The Rais' Wife and Children — Crocodiles — A Fight — 
Determined on a new Mode of Conveyance — All's w ell that ends well 
— New 3Iode of Travelling— Arab Fishermen— Irrigation of Land in 
Egypt — A crowded Ferry-boat — Selim's Alarm and Fears — A Night's 
Lodging — The Pacha's Palace — Ibrahim's Palace — Beautiful Scenery 
—Arrival at Cairo and Visit to the American Consul. - - 57 

CHAPTER V. 

Visit to the Pyramids of Gizah— Old Cairo— Island of Roda — The 
Sphynx — Pyramid Cheops — Examination of its Interior — Ascent to 
its Top — Magnificent View — Descent— Oppressive Attention of the 
Arabs — Catacombs. - - - - - 72 

CHAPTER VI. 

Rambles in Cairo— Slave Market— The Citadel— Bastinado — Im- 
mense Burial Ground— Tombs of Mamelukes— The Pacha's Family 
Tomb — Tombs of the Caliphs— Egyptian Funeral— 31osque — Mad- 
house—False Tradition — Heliopolis — Description of Cairo — Oppres- 
sive Policy of Mehemet AIL - .... 82 



viii. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Author meets two Americans in Cairo— Contemplated Journey 
through Arabia Petrasa — Discouragements —Preparations to Proceed — 
Commencement of the Journey — General Appearance of the Desert — 
Camels and Dromedaries — A Caravan Murdered — Arrival at Suez — 
Description of Suez — Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites— -The 
Fountains of Moses — Journey onward in the Desert — VVell of Howara, 
or the Marah of Scripture. ----- 97 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Elim of Scripture — Rugged and Wild Scenery — Pilgrim In- 
scriptions — Ruins of Sarabit el Khadim — A rude Fortification — A 
Battle — Visit, to an Arab Encampment — An Arab Dance by Star-light 
— A desolate Region— Arrival at Mount Sinai — Reception at the 
Greek Convent. - - - - - - - 113 

CHAPTER IX. 

Convent at Mount Sinai — Greek Church — Chapel of the Burning 
Bush — The Library — Charnel House of Human Skulls and -Bones — 
The Garden— Rules of the Convent — Accommodations for Strangers 
— Arabs around the Convent — Sinai and Horeb — Ascent of Mount 
Sinai — Legend of a Fountain — Chapel of the Virgin — Fountain of 
Elijah— Chapels of Elijah and Elisha — Impressions on arriving at the 
Summit of Sinai — Hermits — Plain where the Israelites Encamped — 
The Rock of Moses — Chapel of the " Forty Martyrs " — Ascent of 
Mount St. Catharine — A Legend — Vast and astonishing Scenery. - 127 

CHAPTER X. 

Departure from the Convent— A Bloody Scene Threatened — A 
Sheik s Tomb — Mountain Scenery — An Alarming Incident— Prepara- 
tions for Battle — Providential Escape— Majestic Scenery — Gulf of 
Akabah— A Difficult Pass — Remains of an Ancient Fortress — Arrival 
at Akabah, and Reception — Parting with Tueileb and his Men — 
Cities of Ezion-geber and Elath — Present Fortress of Akabah — Visit 
to the Governor — Pastime during Detention. - 148 

CHAPTER XL 

Bedoin Arabs — Their General Appearance — Tents and Furniture — 
Dress — Their Women — Mode of Encamping — Food and Manner at 
Meals — Diseases — Degradation of their Women — Singular Manner of 
Courtship — Marriage — Divorces— Circumcision — Funerals— Customs 
of Salutation— Hospitality— Robbery— Mode of settling Quarrels — 
Avengers of Blood — Barbarous Customs in War — Amusements — 
Education— Religion — Prophetic Fulfilment. - 163 

CHAPTER XII. 

Arrival of Sheik Hassein and Company — Plain Dealing with a 
Governor — Land of Idumea — Prophecy concerning Idumea— Dreary- 
Scenery — Mount Seir — Desert of Zin — Kadesh — A Waren — A Chase, 
but no Battle — Nights in Arabia — An Eclipse — Arab Notions — 
Ascent of Mount Hor — Aaron's Tomb — View from the Top of Mount 
Hor — Arrival at Waddy Mousa— Lodgings in a Tomb. » • 179 



CONTENTS. 



ix. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

An Arab Feast — Ruins of Petra — The Khasne— Arab Notions — 
El Syk and the Triumphal Arch — Beautiful Habitation — Tomb with 
a Greek Inscription— The Theatre — Splendid Structures — Tomb 
with a Latin Inscription — El Deir — Excavations in the Rock — De- 
scription of the Ruined City— Palace of Pharaoh's Daughter — Prophe- 
cies concerning Petra— Historical Notice of Petra— Its Fate envel- 
oped in Mystery. - 192 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Departure from Waddy Mousa — Solemn Reflections— A Large 
Caravan— Majestic Mountain Scenery — A Startling Alarm — Gover- 
nor of Gaza, and Guard— The Mirage — Fountains of El Wabeh — 
Dangers of our Route — Arab Tradition — Prospect of Enemies ap- 
proaching — Sheik Selim Ebnegaza — Human Bones by the Way — 
Ruins of Ancient Moladeh — An Alarm and suspected Knavery — 
Ruins of Ancient Maon — Ruins of Carmel — Ruins of Ziph — Arrival 
at Hebron. ------- 211 

CHAPTER XV. 

The Governor of Hebron — Visit to the Tomb of Abraham — A 
Shameful Repulse — Description of the Tomb — Bazars— Manufactories 
— Jews in Hebron — General Appearance of the Town — Pools of 
Hebron — Tombs of Jesse and Abner — Vineyards — Abraham's Tree — 
Plain of Mamre — Reflections- — Parting with our Arab Guides — -De- 
parture from Hebron — Ruins by the way— Pools of Solomon — Arrival 
at Bethlehem — Convent and Church of the Nativity — Place of our 
Saviour's Birth — General Appearance of Bethlehem — Valley of the 
Shepherds and David's Well— Departure from Bethlehem— Rachel's 
Tomb — Arrival at Jerusalem. - 227 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Description of Jerusalem— Buildings and Streets — Bazars and 
Manufactories — Dress of the Inhabitants — Convents of the different 
Sects— Jews — American and English Missions — Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre — Stone of Unction — Description of the Sepulchre — Chapels 
— Cavalry — Impressions — Monkish Legends — Pool of Hezekiah — Site 
of the Ancient Temple — Mosque of St. Omer — Remnant of Ancient 
Wall— The Jews' Place of Wailing. 250 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Place of St Stephen's Martyrdom— Tomb of Joseph and Mary- 
Garden of Gethsemane — Mount of Olives — Chapel of Ascension — 1 
Hebrew Cemetery— Four large Tombs— Village of Siloam — Fountain 
of the Virgin, or Pool of Bethesda— Pool of Siloam— House of Caia- 
phas— Tomb of David — Burial Grounds — Lepers — Pools of Gihon — 
Valley of Hinnom— Potter's Field— Well of Nehemiah— Tombs of the 
Kings' — Wilderness of St. John— Convent of the Cross — Valley of 
Rephaim— Valley of Elah. 269 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Excursion to the Dead Sea— Valley of the Kedron—Convent of 
Santa Saba— Church— Tomb of St. Saba— Human Skulls— The Dead 

1* 



X. 



CONTENTS. 



Sea — Buoyancy of its Waters — Description — Story of Costigan — Arab 
Horsemanship and Manoeuvres — River Jordan — Greek Pilgrims — 
Jericho Destroyed — Fountain of Elisha — Mount of Temptation — 
An Arab Dance — Ruins of Ancient Jericho— A Desolate Region — A 
Chase after Wild Boars — Village of Bethany — Return to Jerusalem. 284 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Preparation for Departure — Last View of the Holy City — Samuel's 
Tomb— Ruins of Bethel — Inviting Scenery — A Might's Lodging — 
Joseph's Tomb — Jacob's Well — Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal — 
Nablous, the Ancient Sychar — Remains of the Samaritans — Ruins 
of Samaria — A Beautiful Landscape — All's Well that Ends Well — 
A Wedding Party — Janeen, or Jezreel — 'Mount Gilboa — Scripture 
Scenery Identified — Arrival at Nazareth. ... 302 

CHAPTER XX. 

Description of Nazareth— Church of the Annunciation — Virgin's 
Grotto — Joseph's Workshop — Sacred Stone Table — Mount of Pre- 
cipitation— Cana of Galilee — Mountain of the Beatitudes' — Town of 
Tiberias— Sea of Tiberias — Mount Tabor — A Band of Robbers — 
From Nazareth to Mount Carrael — Ruins of Megiddo— River Kishon 
— Caipha— Convent on Mount Carmel— Extensive View from Carmel 
— Arrival at Acre — Description — Awful Effects of War. - 319 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Embarkation at Acre — View of Tyre — Perilous Storm — Landing at 
Sidon — English Consular Agent — Description of Sidon — Lady Stan- 
hope — Arrival at Beyroot — Description — A singular Druse Ornament 
— Parting with Companions — The Jews in Palestine—General Re- 
marks on the Holy Land — Conclusion. - 337 



JOURNAL OF TRAVELS. 



CHAPTER L 

INTRODUCTION. 

Embarkation — Arrival at Malta— General Description — Its Inhabitants — 
Armory of the Knights of St. John— Excursion to Citta Vaccina — 
Cathedral— St. Paul's Cave — Catacombs — Excursion to St. Paul's Bay. 

Frequent reading of Eastern scenery had greatly 
interested me from the very days of boyhood. Often 
had I contemplated the grandeur of objects along 
the great river Nile — the city of the Califs — Egypt's 
towering pyramids, her colossal Sphynx, her numer- 
ous catacombs, with her ruined cities and fallen 
temples. Often, too, had I fancied the picturesque 
appearance of a caravan traveling over the deserts 
of Arabia. In later years, my profession led me to 
study and contemplate everything connected with 
sacred history. The reading of the Sacred Scrip- 
tures often awakened in me an ardent desire to visit 
the principal places of their historical scenery. But 
it was not till within a very few months of my 
actual embarkation for the East that I had dared 
anticipate a journey in Africa and Asia. By too 
much study and intense labor, my health had been 
seriously impaired. Suffering greatly under an af- 
fected state of the nervous system, I was advised by 
physicians to take a voyage to sea. I chose the 



1*2 



EMBARKATION. 



direction of the Mediterranean, with the intention, 
should my health permit, of visiting Egypt and the 
Holy Land. 

On the 16th of October, 1841, 1 embarked at Bos- 
ton, on board a new, elegant, and fast-sailing barque, 
bound directly for Malta. The morning was pleasant 
and the wind fair. We soon passed the outer light 
of the harbor, where we dismissed our pilot, and, ere 
sunset, had left behind us the Eastern end of Cape 
Cod. This was our farewell glimpse of American 
soil. Here, as we fairly entered upon "the vast 
world of waters," a peculiar pensiveness seized 
upon my mind. There is an indescribable charm 
that links one to the land of his nativity. As the 
wanderer takes the last view of his native soil, the 
thousand endearing friends and objects left behind 
rush upon his mind like an avalanche. Tender 
emotions swell his bosom. It is then he sets a true 
estimate on all he has parted with. Then, for a few 
moments, the interests of the future are lost in the 
melancholy of the present. Such were my feelings. 

I will not burden the reader with the particulars 
of a monotonous sea voyage. It was prosperous, 
though, as might be expected at that season of the 
year, rough and stormy. I suffered greatly with 
sea-sickness during almost the entire passage. In 
thirteen days out, we passed Corvo and Flores, two 
of the Western Islands ; and during the two follow- 
ing days passed the entire group. On the 14th of 
November, we passed through the Straits of Gibraltar 
with a fair wind. On the 19th, we passed Cape Bon, 
on the coast of Tunis, and on the same day the 
island of Panteliaria. On Sunday morning, the 



ARRIVAL AT MALTA. 



21st, we entered the harbor of Malta, and anchored 
at 1 1 o'clock. Thus we completed our passage from 
Boston to Malta in thirty-six days. We were placed 
in quarantine for one day. There was neither jus- 
tice nor necessity for this measure ; but whoever 
travels in the East will find, that quarantine laws 
and Christianity are two things. 

Immediately after our quarantine restrictions had 
closed, the clerk of the American consul at Malta 
came on board, and by him I was very politely con- 
ducted to the office of that functionary. The consul 
received me very cordially, and gave me some 
essential information relative to exchanges, diet, 
&c. During my stay on the island, he treated me 
with the utmost kindness and attention, and render- 
ed me several favors which I shall ever remember 
with gratitude. 

The island of Malta is about twelve miles wide, 
twenty long, and sixty in circumference. It lies in 
the 36th degree of North latitude, and the ] 5th of 
East longitude, and is situated fifty-four miles South 
of Sicily. In its immediate vicinity are the small 
islands of Gozo and Carminoi, both of which are 
subject to the same government and regulations 
with Malta. The population of Malta, alone, is 
about 120,000, including the strong garrison kept 
on the island. The surface, though some undu- 
lating, is rather level, and is in no part mountainous, 
The soil, though rather poor, is cultivated with great 
industry, and is made to produce a very consider- 
able. The island is entirely bare of wood for fuel. 
This article is brought from Sicily, Naples, and 
other places. Orange and lemon-trees are abundant, 



14 



PRODUCTIONS CLIMATE. 



and bear very fine fruit. The fig-tree flourishes in 
Malta, and yields well. The pomegranates are very 
fine, and of a beautiful flavor. There are also vine- 
yards on the island, that yield excellent fruit. I saw 
some apples, but of a very inferior kind. Vegetables 
are plenty in the market, and of a good quality. 
Beef and poultry are good, but fish are rare and of 
an inferior kind. The goats of the island are very 
fine, yielding a large supply of milk. In Valetta it 
is customary for the milkman to lead about a number 
of goats in the morning and evening. Stopping at 
a door, a customer sends or brings out a small 
pitcher, when the goat-herd kneels down and milks 
from the animal the quantity desired. The milk of 
sheep is also used, particularly in making curd, 
which many eat as a luxury. 

The climate of Malta is warm, and the heat in the 
summer is said to be often oppressive. It very seldom 
rains there during the summer months, but there are 
heavy falls of dew. I was informed that when the 
South wind blows in summer, the heat is very pros- 
trating. The atmosphere assumes a hazy appear- 
ance, and the air sometimes has a disagreeable odor. 
Its effects on furniture and book-covers is, to crack 
and warp them. After this wind has lasted a day or 
two, the air becomes still and confined, producing a 
sensation exceedingly uncomfortable. This wind, 
which comes from the heated plains of Africa, is not 
purified from the corrupt miasma it contains by pass- 
ing over the narrow space of water lying between 
this island and that continent. 

The wind, called the Sirocco, is prevalent in Malta. 
It is said to prevail most in September, but is not con- 



SIROCCO. 



15 



fined to that month alone. I witnessed one of those 
winds while I was there. Persons with diseased 
lungs suffer more or less from its effects. Hence, 
Malta is not healthy for those laboring under pul- 
monary complaints. During the prevalence of the 
Sirocco, strangers are generally affected with great 
lassitude and debility. Anything painted when this 
wind blows will never set well. Glue loses much of 
its adhesive qualities ; bright metals become tarnish- 
ed, and, from the dampness of the atmosphere, the 
pavement of streets is sometimes quite wet. This 
wind occasionally continues a week, and even longer, 
blowing sometimes with great vehemence. I shall 
hereafter have occasion to allude to the Sirocco. 

The people are generally represented as industri- 
ous. This may be true of the greatest number ; but, 
so far as I saw, there are large exceptions. Lazy 
loungers are seen in every direction, and beggars 
meet you at every corner. Many well-dressed ladies 
may be seen in Malta, mostly the wives and daugh- 
ters of British officers and merchants. This class, 
however, includes a very considerable number of 
Maltese ladies. Many of the native ladies are pretty 
featured, with brunette countenances ; but the fashion 
of their dress is rather peculiar to themselves. The 
best class generally attire themselves much like nuns ; 
wearing no bonnets, but in room of one a kind of 
head-dress called Sifaldette. This generally consists 
of a piece of black silk, commonly the size of a 
shawl, falling over the back, shoulders, and arms. 
It has a rather neat, though sanctimonious appear- 
ance. The men have more generally adopted the 
English costume. The chief difference is the cap, 



26 



DRESS. 



which resembles a long woolen bag hanging down 
on the back, and dyed with various colors. The cap 
of a Maltese often forms a receptacle for small ar- 
ticles which he wishes to carry about with him ; and 
even sometimes answers for his money-purse. I have 
since noticed a very similar kind of cap, worn by the 
Maronites of Mount Lebanon. A girdle is still in 
use among the Maltese of the lower order. With 
this the pantaloons are confined round the waist, and 
it is generally three or four yards in length. It is not 
common to see those in native dress, with a jacket — 
its place being supplied by what is called a sedria. 
This is often ornamented in front with several rows 
of round silver buttons, as large as small birds' eggs. 
At other times, instead of these, the buttons consist 
of large pieces of money, such as quarters of dollars 
and sterling shillings, with long shanks fastened on 
them. A Maltese, thus set off, cuts a spruce figure, 
with a long curl hanging down each side of the face, 
and having his ringers set out with massy rings, of 
which they are peculiarly fond. The dress of the 
poorer class, both male and female, is very ordinary. 
Barefooted men and women are the most frequently 
met ; and the filthiness of such is by far too common 
a trait. 

The native population of Malta is Roman Catholic ; 
and in Valetta, the frequent ringing of bells every 
day is peculiar. The number of priests and monks 
on the island would astonish any American Protes- 
tant. They are known by their dress ; and you will 
meet one of them every twenty rods in Valetta, go 
what course you will. It is said that, on the island, 
the Roman Catholic priests of various orders number 



RELIGION. 



17 



at least one thousand, and some think considerably 
more. Such a numerous priesthood of the kind must 
hold a strong and, in some respects, an unfavorable 
influence over the people. Where Romanism holds 
the ascendancy, I believe general education is never 
promoted. This misfortune is very generally seen 
in Malta ; for the common class have very little, or 
no education. 

Like all Catholic countries, religious holydays and 
processions are numerous in Malta. The most im- 
posing of these processions is the one seen on Good 
Friday, which is intended to celebrate the death and 
passion of our Saviour. It takes place in Valetta, 
and is attended by the greater part of the clergy of 
the island, with the distinctive banners of their order, 
and their own peculiar dress. The train leaves the 
church of ta Gesu a little before sunset ; the priests 
and friars walking in file on each side of the street, 
with huge lighted wax tapers in their hands, and 
chanting as they follow the statues which are car- 
ried before them at equal distances in the procession. 
The statues or images are in general of a large size, 
and represent the various sufferings of the Saviour 
until he is laid in the sepulchre, which is a splendid 
canopy, tasselated with gold, having a figure large 
as life stretched beneath them. The rear is general- 
ly brought up by persons covered in white or black 
garments, with eyeholes to see through, dragging at 
their feet chains of different lengths and dimensions. 
This is a penance which these poor victims of 
credulity inflict upon themselves for the commission 
of some offence, or the fulfilment of a vow they have 
made in time of affliction. It is not un frequent to 



18 



HISTORICAL NOTICE. 



see the ankles of some of these individuals very 
much lacerated and bleeding by the weight of the 
chains they drag behind them. After traversing 
several streets, the procession returns to the church 
from whence it came out. 

Malta is supposed to be the Melita of the New 
Testament, on which St. Paul was shipwrecked, and 
subsequently introduced Christianity. On this ac- 
count it is greatly venerated by the Romanists. The 
island obtained but little notice in antiquity; and 
when the apostle was shipwrecked there, is described 
as inhabited by a barbarous people. Its importance 
began in the 16th century, when it was ceded by 
Charles V., of Germany, to the Knights of St. John, 
of Jerusalem, as a compensation for the loss of 
Rhodes. Its fortifications were then greatly strength- 
ened, and it was considered the last maritime bul- 
wark against the Turks. In 1565, Solymon sent 
against Malta a most formidable fleet and army ; and 
the siege which ensued is one of the most celebrated 
in history. After prodigious efforts, the Ottoman 
army was completely repulsed, and the Knights were 
left in peaceable possession of the island till 1798. 
At that time Napoleon, with an expedition destined 
for Egypt, suddenly appeared before this island, and 
took possession of it. In 1800, Great Britain re- 
duced it by blockade, and has ever since retained it 
in possession. 

Valetta, the pleasant capital of the island, is a well 
built town, conveniently situated on a promontory 
anciently called Shoab-en-Ras —the jutting out of the 
cape. The appearance from the sea is highly pic- 
turesque. The present population is estimated at 



VALETTA. 



19 



about 28,000. The first stone :>f this city was laid 
by the Grand Master La Valetta, from whom it takes 
its name, on the 28th of March, 1566, and completed 
by his successor in 1571. The streets are regular and 
well paved ; but many of them are very steep, with 
side-walks cut in stairs. The town is kept very 
clean, being swept every morning by convicts of the 
state prison. The houses are uniformly built of stone, 
and are generally three stories high. Besides the 
windows opening into the street and yard, each dwel- 
ling has one or two balconies, jutting out several feet 
from the walls, and varying from six to twenty in 
length. These awkward protuberances are some- 
times open and sometimes covered on the top, and 
are supplied with glass windows which can be open- 
ed or shut at pleasure. Though these balconies de- 
tract from the beauty of the buildings, they are, 
notwithstanding, very comfortable retreats to the in- 
mates in summer and winter, where they can see all 
that transpires in the street wdthout being exposed 
to the effect of either. The buildings generally have 
flat roofs. The principal street is the Stada Reale, 
on which is situated the palace of the present gover- 
nor, but formerly that of the Grand Master of the 
Order. The fortifications that surround the town are 
immensely strong, and very high. The whole cir- 
cumference of the wall is two miles and a-half. The 
harbor, scarcely rivalled by any other in the world, 
is one of J he principal stations for the English fleet. 

The palace, besides a very tolerable collection of 
pictures and some handsome tapestry representing 
scenes in India and Africa, contains the armory of the 
Order of St. John. These interesting relics are kept 



so 



ANCIENT ARMORY. 



in a large room which extends the whole length of 
the building. Among the arms are ninety complete 
coats of armour for mounted Knights. These com- 
plete suits are placed upright on stands, along the 
length of the room. It is said a trial was made of the 
strength of one of these suits, by discharging several 
musket balls against it, at sixty yards distance. The 
only effect they produced, was slightly to indent it. 
I marked one suit of gigantic dimensions. The hel- 
met alone is said to weigh thirty-seven pounds. Close 
by this is a cannon made of tarred rope, bound round 
a thin lining of copper, and covered on the outside 
with a coat of plaster painted black. This singular 
specimen of ancient warfare, was taken from the 
Turks, during one of their attacks on the city of 
Rhodes. It is about five feet long and ^hree inches 
in the calibre. 

Several parts of the walls are covered with various 
kinds of ancient warlike instruments, such as cross- 
bows, maces, javelins, battle-axes, &c. A man of 
feeling cannot gaze upon these relics of the prowess 
of by-gone years, without a touching reflection on the 
vanity of human ambition. Where now are the 
mighty men, who in days of yore wielded these wea- 
pons of bloodshed and death ? Gone, all gone, long 
since, to the silent grave ! " How are the mighty 
fallen, and the weapons of war perished ! " 

In one part of the palace is a chapel, sufficient to 
accommodate a congregation of about three hundred. 
Worship, according to the rites of the church of Eng- 
land, is performed here every Sabbath. I attended 
worship there the only Sabbath I spent in Malta. The 
day was stormy, the assembly small and the services 



CITTA VACCHIA. 



21 



rather dull. The preacher, I believe, was not the 
one who generally officiates in the place, but was a 
chaplain in the navy. Psalms were given out to be 
sung, but I heard no singing. The military band 
played a psalm-tune as many times as there were 
verses in the psalm, and this, I believe was all. It ap- 
peared to me much like the kind of music used at the 
worship of Nebuchadnezzar's great image, set up on 
the plain of Dura. The sermon was much more 
prosy than energetic. 

On the 24th, I made an excursion out to Citta Vac- 
chia, some seven miles from Valetta. My object was 
to visit the Cathedral in that place, St. Paul's Cave, 
and the Catacombs. I was conveyed out in a carriage 
called a callesse. It has but two wheels, and is not 
unlike a cab, except that it has no springs. It was 
drawn by a mule, and the driver, a lad of about fif- 
teen, trotted alongside the animal, and was continual- 
ly lashing him up with a short piece of rope. On a 
trot, the motion of the vehicle is jolting and uncom- 
fortable. I was thus trundled out and back again at 
the lazy jog of a mule. The road, however was 
good, and scenery rather pleasant and inviting. 

About two miles from Valetta, the famous aque- 
duct of the island presented itself, suspended on 
arches. This expensive piece of workmanship was 
constructed about the year 1610. The spring by 
which it is principally supplied, rises at a place call- 
ed Diar Chandul,ahouttwo miles from Citta Vacchia. 
As far as Casal Attard,the aqueduct is under ground. 
It afterwards, rises and falls with the unevenness of 
the ground until it reaches Valetta, where it discharges 
a large, supply of water. It is about nine miles and 



22 



CATHEDRAL, 



a half long. At this place, a barefooted guide came 
out, showed his paper of recommendation, and then 
trotted along by the side of the driver. 

Citta Vacchia is the old and original capital of 
Malta, and is situated near the centre. Even as fat- 
back as the time of the Romans, it appears to have 
been a place of some considerable importance. Ac- 
cording to the authority of Cicero and Diodorus, it 
contained many stately buildings and was very rich 
in the style of its architecture. It was formerly call- 
ed Melita, the same as the island. 

On my arrival, I was first conducted to the Cathe- 
dral. The guide knocked at the outer door, when it 
was opened by a monk, whose business is to conduct 
visitors through the immense edifice and explain 
things, for which the visitor pays him a shilling ster- 
ling. He spoke very broken English. A general de- 
scription of this Cathedral would occupy more space 
than I am disposed to devote to it. The splendor of 
its interior, its mosaic pavements, its gilded arches, 
its costly sculpture, its numerous images and splendid 
paintings, need to be seen to be duly appreciated. I 
noticed among the paintings, one representing St. 
Paul's shipwreck ; and among the sculpture, two mar- 
ble images large as life, designed to represent the bap- 
tism of our Saviour by John. The main altar is truly 
sumptuous, from the various colored marble and other 
valuable stones of which it is constructed. Before it, 
on either side, on a raised pavement, stands a chair, 
covered with a rich canopy of crimson velvet. That 
on the right is occupied by the bishop, and the one on 
the left is destined for the sovereign of the island, over 
which is placed the escutcheon of Great Britain 



st. paul's cave. 



23 



Close by the latter is a seat prepared for the governor 
of the island. A staircase leads to an underground 
apartment, where are several tombs. From the 
dome of the building a splendid view is#had of near- 
ly every part of the island. 

I was next conducted to St. Paul's Cave, situated 
some eighty rods from the Cathedral. The entrance 
is covered by a small ancient chapel, at the door of 
which my guide knocked, and was answered by the 
gruff voice of an aged monk within. The door was 
soon opened, and torches were lit, in preparation for 
our descent into the cave. The monk led the way 
into a narrow passage of a few feet, when we de- 
scended some twenty stone steps. We then turned 
to the right, and proceeding a few yards entered the 
grotto or cave. It is round, or nearly so, arching to 
the top. At any part of it a person may stand erect, 
and its size would probably contain from forty to fifty 
persons. In the centre stands the statue of the apos- 
tle, large as life. One hand is extended, the fingers 
of which had been broken off by a roguish young Brit- 
ish officer. This depredation is much regretted by 
the Maltese, who exceedingly venerate this image ; 
it is considered a good specimen of ancient sculpture. 

This grotto is regarded by Romanists as one of the 
most interesting spots on the island. They say it was 
used as a chapel by the primitive Christians to secret- 
ly meet for worship ; and that it also afforded Paul a 
temporary shelter in the midst of persecution. Can 
this be the fact, when it must be remembered that 
Paul was a Roman prisoner when on this island ? He 
never visited it again after being conveyed to Rome. 
But the monks tell stranger things still concerning 



24 



9 

MONKISH FABLES, 



this cave. They positively affirm that no matter how 
much earth or stone is taken out of it, nothing can 
enlarge it, as every place from whence substance is 
removed, immediately fills up again. This they de- 
clare has been often demonstrated. By many igno- 
rant papists, the very dust of this cave is supposed to 
contain a healing charm. Small portions of it are 
carried far away and kept to drive away evil spirits, 
prevent contagion, and heal certain diseases. But 
the grotto bore to me the appearance of being entire- 
ly the work of men. It appears to be cut in the 
rock, the ledge being nearly as soft as chalk. Ledges 
of this kind of stone abound in the island. 

It is said that in the days of the Knights of St. 
John, this cave was a refuge of pardon to the worst 
of criminals. Even if a murderer could succeed in 
reaching it and prostrate himself before the image of 
St. Paul, no human law could touch him. 

After examining St. Paul's Cave, I was next con- 
ducted to the Catacombs. These are situated a short 
distance further on, and the entrance is also covered 
by a small chapel. After passing through several 
clean and narrow lanes, a monk leading the way, I 
was stopped at a small door. Here torches were lit, 
preparatory to our descending into the labyrinth be- 
low. Descending some nine or ten steps, we had ex- 
posed to our view a low entry, at the end of which 
the excavations commence. As we continued our 
way, the utmost care was necessary lest the head 
should come in contact with the stony crags above. 
At one moment the passage was five feet high, and at 
the next so low as to require a very humble posture. 
The first grotto we entered, bore some marks of hav- 



CATACOMBS. 



25 



ing once been a work-shop. There was the oil-press, 
the ovens, and something on the sides resembling 
seats for workmen. So, at least, the monk explained 
it. All was apparently of stone. Passing on a little 
further, we entered what had the appearance of a 
chapel, the pillars of which were still in a good state 
of preservation. The altar, on the north side, was 
considerably defaced; fragments, no doubt, having 
been carried oft as precious relics. The whole front 
was covered with pencilings of names made by 
visitors, and I had the vanity to place mine there. 

My monkish guide, and he was the only individual 
with me, continued to lead through narrow winding 
aisles, from one room to the other, till, no doubt, I should 
have been utterly lost had I been left alone. Some 
of these apartments bore the appearance of having 
once been places for depositing the dead, but if dead 
bodies were ever deposited in them, no certain traces 
are now left, save the sarcophagi cut along the sides. 
These were of various sizes ; some for children, and 
others for grown persons. Some of these were filled 
with earth like graves, but the earth thus used had 
too fresh an appearance for extreme antiquity. 

Over what space we passed during one hour spent 
in these subterraneous chambers, I am not able to 
say, but the scene in reality is gloomy enough. It is 
said that these labyrinths actually extend the. dis- 
tance of miles, and that the main pass-way was 
closed up by order of the governor of Malta. Fright- 
ful stories are told of persons many years ago, having 
been decoyed into this immense subterraneous re- 
gion, and there robbed and murdered. Other ac- 
counts are given of whole companies having been 

2 



st. Paul's bay. 



iost in exploring these catacombs, and perishing from 
starvation. Having sufficiently satisfied my curiosi- 
ty, I was glad to return again to the light of the sun. 
I paid the monk and my other guide, who had 
lounged above while I and the monk were below, 
and made my way back to Valetta. 

Among my other short excursions out on the island, 
I saw little worthy of note, with the exception of a 
visit to St, Paul's Bay. This is the supposed place 
where St. Paul was shipwrecked. It is situated about 
seven miles from Valetta. This Bay is about three 
miles in length and two in width at the entrance, 
gradually decreasing towards the extremity. At this 
place the beach is sandy, and the coast less rocky than 
round Yaletta. To the northeast of the entrance is a 
small oblong island called Selmoon, separated from 
the main land by a narrow strait. A tower and other 
fortifications in the vicinity serve to defend the bay, 
and were raised for that purpose by the Knights of 
Malta. A small chapel has been erected over the 
supposed spot where the barbarians lighted a fire to 
warm the shipwrecked company. It contains several 
old drawings, illustrative of the event it is designed 
to commemorate. The day was pleasant and fair, 
and the whole scene presented a lovely tranquillity, 
peculiarly suited to the musings of my mind. Finally, 
the scenery on the island, together with the interest- 
ing associations connected with that green spot in the 
midst of the sea, cannot fail to interest the traveller. 
A week or ten days may be spent very pleasantly in 
Malta in the autumn of the year. 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 



27 



CHAPTER II. 

Departure from Malta — View of Mount iEtna — Scenery in Greece— A 
Greek hermit— Patmos — Crete — Storm at Sea — Arrival at Alexandria— 
Pompey's Pillar— Cleopatra's Needles — Miserable abodes — Ruins of Cle- 
opatra's Palace — Catacombs — Egyptian dress — Present appearance of 
Alexandria. 

It is now time for me to introduce to the reader a 
travelling companion. At Malta I found myself a 
fellow-boarder with H. M. Chad wick, Esq., an Eng- 
lish gentleman of fortune, travelling for his own 
pleasure. He was now on his way to India by the 
Red Sea, and. like myself, was waiting a conveyance 
to Alexandria. He had travelled extensively in 
Europe, the West Indies, and South America ; is a 
gentleman of classic mind, and speaks several lan- 
guages. I felt that I needed such a companion, and 
we finally concluded to embark together for Alexan- 
dria. We expected to set out on the 27th, but the 
French steamer in which we concluded to take pas- 
sage, was delayed three days behind her time. She 
however arrived on the evening of the 29th. We 
immediately entered our names as passengers, to 
sail early the next morning. 

The vessel was called the Leonidas, one of the 
French armed steamers. It was an excellent sea 
vessel, clean and neat, with a well-served table. I 
would, however, except a few of the dishes, as rather 
too strongly mixed with garlic. But as a large va- 
riety was served on the table, I was enabled to select 
the part free from that unpleasant herb. During 
my travels in the East, I could but remark the free 



28 



MOUNT JET'S A, 



and abundant use made of garlic in seasoning food. 
The Greeks and Turks will chew and eat garlic with 
all the relish that they would eat apples. Finally, 
while on board this vessel, the sea was smooth, the 
weather fair, and the passage pleasant. 

On the day of leaving Malta, we passed in view of 
a part of Sicily. Mount iEtna was in sight, and we 
could see columns of black smoke ascending from the 
crater. The captain had deviated a little from his 
direct course, to gratify the curiosity of his passen- 
gers, with a distant view of this celebrated volcano. 

On the 2d of December we were in sight of that 
part of Greece called the Morea, and much of that 
day sailed near the coast. I could but call to mind 
the bloody ravages committed on the ill-fated inhabit- 
ants of that peninsula, during the late Greek Revolu- 
tion. It was there Ibrahim Pacha abundantly im- 
mortalized his name as a blood-thirsty merciless ty- 
rant. The whole coast presented a mountainous and 
sterile appearance. Some towns and villages were 
seen in the distance, in the vicinity of which olive 
and other trees were discernible. We also saw what 
we supposed to be vineyards. Many of the moun- 
tains are so high that their tops are covered with 
perennial snows. Among these was plainly to be 
seen Mount Taygetus, immortalized by Virgil. 

" Taygetique canes domitorque Epidaurus equorum." 

Its tall summit rises above the others, capped with 
eternal snow. In some places flocks of goats were 
seen feeding. The whole coast is entirely destitute 
of timber. 

At one point of the Morea, the cell of a Greek re- 
cluse was pointed out to us. It was situated in a 



GREEK RECLUSE. 



29 



small notch of a tall mountain that comes down to 
the sea with a bold and precipitous base. It would 
seem from all I could discern, that no passage could 
be found to the place by either land or water, with- 
out extreme labor. In that notch the hermit lives in 
his cell, and cultivates a few feet of ground, volun- 
tarily excluding himself from all societ}\ I know 
nothing of his history, and only had the fact com- 
municated to me in broken English. He was not 
out, or we could have seen him from our distance. 

On the morning of December 3d, we found our- 
selves in the harbor of Syra. A pretty Greek town 
presented itself in front of us, rising in terraces from 
the water's edge, on the side of a mountain, in a very 
picturesque manner. At the summit of the town 
stands a large Greek Convent, quite conspicuous from 
its location. On the opposite side of the harbor stands 
the Lazaretto, which shows to good advantage. The 
island of Syra, like many around it, is small, moun- 
tainous, and of sterile appearance. It is, however, 
a central place for vessels in the Levant to touch at, 
and has a good harbor. 

Here a part of the passengers exchanged steamers. 
That from Malta proceeds directly to Constantino- 
ple, and passengers for Alexandria are here put on 
board another French steamer. This was also an 
armed vessel called the Dante, of the same size of 
the Leonidas. It was a good strong sea-vessel, but 
not so well commanded or furnished as the one we 
had just left. Rather more garlic was here served 
up in dishes than I had been accustomed to. 

Passing out from Syra, we came in sight of Pat- 
mos, the island to which the Apostle John was ban- 



30 



PATMOg. 



ished by the Emperor Domitian, and on which he 
wrote the book of Revelation. We had a plain 
though distant view of the island. Subsequently 
on my passage from Beyroot to Smyrna, we lay be- 
calmed nearly a whole day within a few miles of Pat- 
mos. Gladly would I then have visited it, but I had 
not the means. It has a broken and mountainous as- 
pect, and is about thirty miles in circumference. On 
it is a small city called Patmos, with a harbor and 
some monasteries of Greek monks. A cave is still 
shown where the monks say John wrote the Apoca- 
lypse. 

On the morning of December 4th, we passed the 
island of Candia, the ancient Crete of the New Tes- 
tament. This island is large, densely populated, and 
may be regarded as decidedly the best in the Archi- 
pelago. Though mainly inhabited by Greeks, it is 
still under Turkish Government. It had recently 
been in a state of civil war. The inhabitants had 
made another effort to gain their independence, but 
the insurrection was now suppressed, and the mana- 
cles of oppression newly riveted. 

On the 5th, towards evening, we came in sight of 
Alexandria. About sunset a pilot came alongside, 
offering to conduct us into port ; but the offer was 
strangely rejected by our captain. Whether from the 
dangerous state of the harbor, he was afraid to run 
in at that late hour, or whether he did not rightly 
understand what the pilot said, I am unable to state. 
The vessel was instantly brought about and put back 
to sea. This unaccountable movement still remains 
a mystery, as I was unable to obtain an explanation 
of it from any one on board. The vessel ran direct- 



BTORM AT SEA. 



31 



iy back till one o'clock the next morning. During 
that time, the wind being strong from the shore, we 
were carried further off than the captain designed to 
run. His intention was to have made the mouth of 
the harbor again by about ten the next morning. 
The wind increased during the night, and by sunrise 
was blowing a gale directly off land, while the sea 
ran so high as to frequently break over our bows. 
As no sail could now be set, our entire dependence 
was upon steam. We came in sight of Alexandria 
again at 5 P. M., but the wind was blowing so heavy 
and the sea running so high, that we were compelled 
to put back to sea. Before morning light came, it 
blew a perfect hurricane. I had seen storms at sea 
before, but never any thing to compare with this. On 
the morning of the 7th, the hazy and yet fiery appear- 
ance of the sirocco had overspread the whole hea- 
vens. Gusts of wind burst upon us like a tornado, car- 
rying sheets of water over the vessel. It was indeed, 
an excellent sea-craft, and weathered the storm most 
admirably. Alexandria was once more visible in the 
distance, but night was drawing on and the sea run- 
ning so high that it was impossible to get into the 
harbor. Again our vessel was brought about, but as 
coal on board was becoming scarce, the captain 
thought it advisable to lay-to and let her drift till 
morning. Morning found us again out of sight of 
land. The weather, however, had calmed greatly, 
and we now had a fair prospect of reaching port . At 
about noon we were again in sight of land, and at 2 
o'clock, r. m.j were opposite the Pacha's seraglio ; but 
the sea was still running high. The same pilot came 
out, and on coming on board rebuked the captain 



32 



HARBOR OP ALEXANDRIA. 



sharply for not having gone into the harbor on the 
evening of the 5th. An English brig which was near- 
ly alongside of us that evening, got in safe. Our ves- 
sel having been seen off shore on the 5th, and nothing 
since having been heard from us for nearly three 
days, we had been given up at Alexandria as lost. 
Our appearance again on the coast was greeted with 
joy by many. 

The harbor of Alexandria is dangerous and diffi- 
cult to enter. The channel is narrow, and the water 
breaks and foams over huge rocks on both sides. We 
came to anchor near the Pacha's fleet, a short dis- 
tance south-west of the seraglio, at 4 o'clock, p. m. 
All now was perfect hurly-burly in getting baggage 
into boats. We were first pushed one way and then 
another, by boatmen who had come on board, the 
language of whom was entire gibberish to me. An 
agent from one of the French hotels was at hand. 
To him we committed our baggage, and were soon 
put in a boat for shore. We passed through the 
Pacha's fleet, which was lying at anchor. It made 
quite a formidable appearance, consisting of several 
large ships of the line and many frigates. Bands of 
music were playing on board, and ever}' thing seemed 
to partake of life and vivacity. 

On arriving at the shore, a worse state of confusion 
ensued. A crowd gathered at the place of our land- 
ing, and here were men with camels, mules, donkeys, 
and such means of conveyance as Alexandria affords. 
One pushed one way, and another in the opposite 
direction, all talking at once, and each exerting him- 
self to make the most noise. The agent from the 
hotel caned more than one before we got our bag- 



ALEXANDRIA. 



33 



gage on shore. This process reminded me that I was 
now in Egypt, and under a despotic government. 
Our baggage was first conveyed to the custom-house, 
where we expected to have it much rummaged and 
closely inspected. Only one trunk of the company, 
however, was opened, and the contents of that were 
not disturbed. We were made to understand that if 
we would hand over a little backsheesh (present), our 
baggage would not be detained for inspection, but 
otherwise it would be kept over night. So much for 
the trustiness of the Pacha's publicans. We very 
readily consented to the proposition, paid had our 
baggage conveyed to the Hotel d'Franeais, in the 
Frank quarters, about a mile from our landing place. 
I mounted a donkey, which by the way, is an Egyp- 
tian ass, about tall enough to keep the feet of the rider 
from coming in contact with the ground. The owner 
of the donkey ran behind, lashing up the animal in a 
rough manner. I pitied the poor brute, but was un- 
able to make the master understand that I wished to 
go slower. The donkey knew every turn, (and we 
turned every thirty or forty yards,) passing through 
narrow and filthy streets, till we arrived at the grand 
square in the Frank quarters. 

In approaching the harbor of Alexandria, the first 
prominent objects that strike the eye, are the im- 
mense number of wind-mills. These, facing the sea, 
stretch round the entire harbor. The seraglio occu- 
pies a prominent and airy position, and is seen to 
good advantage in entering the harbor. It is spa- 
cious, and has considerable elegance about it ; but 
its very name must render it odious to the Christian, 
Besides what we saw on our entrance of the harbor, 
2* 



34 



pompey's pillar. 



an excursion to Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's 
Needles, situated as they are at opposite points, 
gave us a cursory view of nearly all that is worthy 
of note in the fallen city of Alexander the Great. 

Pompey's Pillar is said to have once occupied the 
centre of Alexandria, when that city was in its glory. 
Now it not only stands without the gates, but at a 
considerable walk even from the suburbs of the city. 
Not that the monument has been removed, but the 
city has receded, till Pompey's Pillar now stands 
towering in loneliness, on a slight eminence, between 
the present city and the Lake Mareotis. On our way 
we passed a spacious Mohammedan burial-ground. 
It was about three hours before the setting of the 
sun. A large number of Mohammedans, male and 
female, were either walking among the graves or 
seated upon them, making a mournful, howling noise. 
It is a practice among the Egyptians to pay frequent 
visits to the graves of departed relatives, and there 
wail over their mouldering remains. The Mussul- 
man faith certainly inculcates great veneration for 
their dead, and a very peculiar familiarity with 
death. This was the first scene of the kind I had wit- 
nessed, and to me it had a very sombre appearance. 

Pompey's Pillar is a single column of finely-polish- 
ed red granite, seventy- three feet high, and a little 
over nine feet in diameter. It stands on a pedestal of 
the same material, which measures about fifteen feet 
on each side. The pedestal stands on a sub-structure 
of mason-work, which at present appears to be slow- 
ly falling to pieces. The entire erection is surmount- 
ed by a well-wrought Corinthian capital, of corres- 
ponding proportions. All these parts reckoned to- 



CLEOPATRA S NEEDLES. 



35 



gether, make the entire column a little over one hun- 
dred feet in height. The shaft is beautiful and smooth, 
shining in the sun-beams like burnished steel, except 
parts which have been shamefully daubed up with 
English names. Here it has firmly stood, braving the 
storms that have < beaten upon it for more than two 
thousand years, and here it yet stands. But should 
its sub-structure not soon be repaired, it would not be 
surprising to hear that this beautiful work of antiqui- 
ty had fallen to rise no more. From the eminence 
where this monument stands, a grand view is had of 
the Mahmoudieh canal, the Lake Mareotes, and of 
the vast Lybian desert stretching beyond. 

From this place we rode over and by fragments of 
ruins, back to the gate of the city through which we 
had made our egress. Taking the direction of Cleo- 
patra's Needles, we stopped for a moment at the cele- 
brated wells, made in the time of Alexander, at the 
very founding of the city. They are still in use and 
afford much water. The Needle of Cleopatra now 
standing, is a granite obelisk, rising to the height of 
sixty feet, and suddenly sharpening at the top. It is 
covered on all sides with hieroglyphics. On the side 
facing the Desert, and on which the sirocco has beaten 
for many centuries, the characters are nearly obliter- 
ated ; while on the other sides they stand out fresh and 
fair. A few yards from this lies the prostrate brother, 
and partly buried in the sand. It is said to have been 
taken down many years ago, for the purpose of remov- 
ing it to England, but that the Pacha finally refused 
to have it taken away. It is about the size of the 
standing one, and like it covered with characters, 
which only mock the sciences of the present day. 



36 



HABITATIONS. 



In the immediate vicinity of Cleopatra's Needles, I 
noticed a long range of miserable clay huts. No hu- 
man habitations can possibly present more of degra- 
dation and extreme wretchedness, than were there 
seen. We were told by our guide, that these were 
houses for the soldiers' families. They appeared to 
be wholly constructed of clay, with slight coverings 
of reeds and straw with the bare earth to sit or lie on. 
Women and children of the most filthy and squalid 
appearance, were either seated or wandering among 
these miserable kennels, for they deserve no better 
name. I have seen many Indian wigwams in the 
American forest, but nothing like the degraded pic- 
ture of extreme wretchedness seen among these cells 
in Alexandria and other parts of Egypt. These 
dens of wretchedness abound in all the suburb parts 
of that city. 

Round the outskirts of the city are constantly seen 
a large number of dogs, seemingly wild, and without 
owners. They wholly subsist on carrion and other 
offal, and are very fierce and savage in their appear- 
ance. I could not but remark the striking similarity 
between the dogs of Egypt and the American wolves. 
While standing by the side of Pompey's Pillar, I 
counted, within the range of a few rods on the plain 
below, thirty-three dogs ; and I presume I might have 
counted one hundred on the open space around the 
eminence where I was then standing. They were 
howling and barking in the midst of carcasses of cam- 
els and horses, on which they fed. Their legs and 
mouths besmeared with blood, gave them a wild and 
barbarous appearance. These, with vultures, buz- 
zards and crows, devour the offal of the city. 



BATTLE-FIELD OF ABOUKIE. 



37 



About two miles east of Alexandria is a large 
square enclosure, called the ruins of Cleopatra's Pal- 
ace. Here, in the famous battle of Aboukir, the 
French took their position, and near it Sir Ralph 
Abercrombie fell. I wandered over the place near the 
close of day, and indulged in reflections connected 
with the hour, and the scenery around me. All was 
still and quiet, and but few marks now remain of the 
bloody scene once acted on this field of martial strife. 

About two miles west of Alexandria, are catacombs 
of considerable extent ; but as they are choked up 
and difficult to explore, and as we expected to see 
many of these up the Nile, we did not visit them. 

The soldiers of the Pacha are miserably ciad, and 
probably as poorly fed. I could perceive no differ- 
ence in dress between the various kinds of troops. 
Whether cavalry, artillery, infantry, or whatever, 
they were dressed in the same kind of uniform. That 
of the common soldier consists of a tight roundabout 
coat, made of coarse cotton cloth, without coloring 
or bleaching ; loose kilt breeches of the same mate- 
rial, leggins of the same, the coarsest kind of shoes, 
and a red turban cap with a large blue tassel hang- 
ing from the crown down the back side. Neither 
lace or tinsel marks either soldier or officer. An of- 
ficer generally wears a blue coat, made of a thin 
cotton stuff, and is principally distinguished by his 
belt and side-arms. I saw several companies on pa- 
rade in Alexandria. Their exercise in tactic- would 
appear awkward enough at West Point, and their 
music of fife and drum, if possible, worse. The airs 
they play, had, to me, scarce the model of a tune. 

A large number of languages are spoken in Alex 



38 



LANGUAGE AND DRESS. 



andria, and yet I saw but few who could converse in 
good English. Even in the Frank quarters, the Ital- 
ian and French languages are the most prevalent. 
There is one English hotel, and I believe but one, in 
the city. As to dress, the Frank quarters present a 
great variety of fashions, so that travellers, whether 
from Europe or America, will be sure there to find 
themselves in fashion. The Egyptian dress is of 
Turkish fashion. That of the males consists of a short 
roundabout coat, loose kilt breeches, coming just 
below the knees, and a red cap called a tarbouch. In 
four cases out of five, this constitutes the entire out- 
ward suit. Stockings and shoes are rare among the 
lower class, whether males or females. The higher 
classes are generally seen with long white stockings, 
and red or yellow slippers. The Egyptian females 
never wear bonnets. A cloth of black color is put on 
the head in such a way as to draw close over the 
forehead, from which is suspended, by a silver clasp, 
a small narrow veil, stiffened along the top by a piece 
of reed or wire. The clasp suspends the veil to a 
space just below the eyes, leaving them visible. 
When the veil is not on, the female, in walking the 
streets, generally conceals her face, except one eye, 
by holding the folds of her head-covering in a certain 
position. All this is but a slavish custom of the East, 
of long and rigid standing. There are, however, 
breaches of it. Native females are often seen with 
uncovered faces ; and of all that I saw, their coun- 
tenances were more forbidding than inviting. Dis- 
eased eyes are astonishingly prevalent among the 
native Egyptians, and filthiness of person, a trait not 
to be mistaken. I saw more persons in Egypt blind 



RUINS OF ALEXANDRIA. 



39 



of an eye, and the other badly diseased, than I had 
ever seen before in my life. 

The Frank quarters in Alexandria are rather 
pleasant. They are situated in the east part of the 
city, and mainly consist of an oblong square, of con- 
siderable extent, with buildings fronting to it. These 
buildings, generally, are good, and some of them have 
an air of elegance. But of the city in general, its 
houses, shops and bazars are poor, and its streets nar- 
row, crooked, and extremely filthy. The present 
population is supposed to be about 40,000. But this is 
scarcely a shadow of what it once was. In the days 
of its glory, Alexandria was fifteen miles in circum- 
ference, and contained 600,000 inhabitants. But the 
hand of time and the hand of barbarism have both 
swept over it, and buried its glory in the dust and in 
the sea. Her illustrious schools of theology and phi- 
losophy are no more. Her vast library, famed in an- 
cient history, was burnt by barbarous Saracen hands. 
The lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the 
world, has vanished, and its place is known no more. 
Most of her former site is yet strewed with remains 
of her early grandeur and greatness. But many 
foundations on which her grandest structures perish- 
ed, have of late been torn up and borne off to build 
the modern navy yard and other works of the 
Pacha. Of Alexandria it may be said, the glory 
has indeed departed. 



40 



CONVEYANCES. 



CHAPTER III. 

Arrangements for leaving Alexandria — Monopoly and Travellers' Rights — 
Setting out for Cairo— The Boat — Selim Hassan and the Boat's Crew 
— A Dilemma— Sudden Illness — Mahmoudieh Canal and Lake Mareotis 
— Oppressive Conscription and awful Mortality — Military Encampment 
—Egyptian Threshing Floor — Arrival at Atfe — Description — Embarka- 
tion on the Nile — Egyptian Agriculture — Sirocco— Visit to an Arab 
Village. 

Having, in two days, satisfied our curiosity with 
examinations in and around Alexandria, we were 
now ready for a passage up the Nile. There is a 
small iron steamer, called the Lotus, which plies be- 
tween Atfe, fifty-eight miles from Alexandria, and 
Cairo. It makes one regular trip a month, and this 
must be governed by the arrival of the mail-steamer 
from England. The steamer Lotus was then at 
Cairo, and would return in time to take passengers 
to that city, on the arrival of the British steamer, on 
or about the 21st of the month. We had but two 
alternatives before us : i. e., either to wait ten or 
twelve days longer at Alexandria for that medium of 
conveyance, or take passage up the Nile in a sail- 
boat, with Arab attendants. I was anxious to im- 
prove my time, and my English friend was desirous 
of spending some days in Cairo before the arrival of 
the English overland mail, as by the same convey- 
ance he must prosecute his journey to Bombay. The 
American consul was at Cairo, so that I had not the 
benefit of his counsel. His son-in-law, Mr. Todd, of 
Alexandria, thought it our best course to apply to the 
" East India Agency," Hill & Co., and secure our 
conveyance to Cairo in sail-vessels. If the wind 



CHARGES FOR CONVEYANCE. 



41 



should prove fair, we might accomplish our passage 
in three days, and we might be longer ; but under 
existing circumstances, he thought this our most ex- 
peditious and best course. I had another object in 
view, in going by this kind of conveyance. Our craft 
would occasionally stop by the way, and thus give us 
a better opportunity of making observations ; where- 
as, if we took the steamer, we must be carried 
through from Atfe to Cairo, without stopping. We 
finally decided to take the mode of conveyance thus 
recommended to us. 

We applied to the India agency forthwith, to be 
sent on our way to Cairo. For our passage we paid 
each the amount of six pounds sterling. So much for 
the expense of travelling in Egypt, one hundred and 
eighty miles, the distance between Alexandria and 
Cairo. This sum, too, is twelve shillings sterling 
less than is charged by the steamer. Let travellers 
not be deceived in relation to cheap fare and board 
in Egypt. But I was led to inquire, why these ex- 
orbitant charges ? All kinds of labor are performed 
cheap by the natives, and provisions of every kind, 
so far as I was informed, bought of them at low prices. 
The obvious fact is, that individual monopoly is at 
the bottom of this evil. Certain European managers 
at Alexandria and Cairo are doubtless amassing 
wealth by draining from travellers all the money they 
can get by anything like plausible pretences. An 
English or American traveller comes to Alexandria, 
and is unable to make contracts or do business with 
the natives. Thus situated, he may be compelled to 
either stop where he is, or apply to an English agency 
to be sent up the Nile. For this he is sure to pay a 



42 



EMBARKATION. 



round price. He is then given over to a few natives, 
with a native guide who can speak a little English. 
The agency pays the natives very cheaply to do this 
business — pockets the avails — and leaves the travel- 
ler to get along as well as he can ; while the natives 
will sponge out of him bucks heesh every once in a 
while, or there is no getting forward. When shall 
these evils be remedied, and travellers have justice 
done them in Egypt? 

For the sum paid at the India agency office, we 
were not only to be conveyed to Cairo, but an ample 
supply of good provisions was to be furnished us, and 
a good cook to prepare our meals. J was also to 
have a good mattress and covering provided me. All 
this was promised most faithfully. On the 10th of 
December, toward evening, we were ready to start 
for our boat on the Mahmoudieh canal, through which 
we must be conveyed as far as Atfe on the Nile. Our 
baggage, provisions, and wood for cooking, were all 
placed on two camels. As the day was pleasant, and 
the distance to our place of embarkation not over two 
miles, we chose ourselves to go on foot. Natives 
with donkeys, however, followed us, insisting upon 
our riding, till their teasing put my English friend 
quite out of patience. He turned upon them with 
his cane, and, driving them back several rods, threat- 
ened to cane the first black mother's son of them that 
dare follow us any farther. The process was salu- 
tary, and ridded us of these shameless annoyers. 

On our way to the boat, we again passed Pompey's 
pillar. We stopped a few moments, took another sur- 
vey of this stupendous column of solid granite ; and 
then, taking from its pedestal a. few fragments of 



THE BOAT S CREW. 



43 



cement as relics, passed on. We had been promised 
the best boat on the canal. It possibly may have 
been such, but it was in reality an old filthy concern. 
Its length was about that of a line-boat on the Erie 
canal, of some longer beam, and covered in a similar 
manner about two-thirds of the way. The covered 
part was separated by cross partitions into three 
small rooms. It had two short masts, with long 
lateen sails. These are raised when the wind is 
fair. When there is no wind, five or six of the men 
go on shore, and by pulling at a rope, tow the boat 
forward at a very sluggish pace. 

Our interpreter, who was also to serve as cook, ac- 
companied us to the boat. He was a young Arab, 
small in size, and of very dark visage, indicating a 
mixture of Nubian blood. His dress was better 
than that of Arabs generally. He spoke some Eng- 
lish very badly, and bore the name of Selim Hassan. 
He proved to be a bad cook, and miserably stupid in 
everything ; but still seemed to possess rather a be- 
nevolent heart. Upon the whole, I should consider 
Selim a very tolerable young Arab. The crew of 
our boat were in appearance of the most filthy class, 
with scarcely rags to cover their bodies. They had 
every appearance, too, of being badly infested with 
vermin. All of them had sore eyes, and two of them 
appeared to be nearly blind. 

The boat was soon under way. In the meantime 
we set about arranging our baggage, and examining 
our stock of provisions. Much of this we found of an 
inferior quality, some of it very bad, and the whole 
scanty. We however hoped for a short passage, 
and concluded to make the best of an unpleasant 



44 



SUDDEN ILLNESS. 



matter. I inquired for the mattress that I was to 
have. Selim said none had been sent. This was 
indeed vexatious. What was to be done ? Must I 
lie on the hard boards all the way to Cairo ? My 
kind English friend had no more bedding than he 
needed, and 1 wanted no part of Selim's, which at best 
w T as scanty. My travelling friend, however, after 
adjusting his mattress, kindly furnished me with a 
few things, and Selim insisted on my taking a part 
of his. From these two sources, with the aid of my 
cloak, a place was made for me to lie on. 

That evening I was suddenly taken most violently 
ill, first with pains, and then with a profuse vomiting. 
At first the whole seemed like the result of poison ; 
and yet I knew of nothing 1 had taken which would 
produce that effect. I had eaten but one meal on 
board, and that a sparing one. During a sleepless 
night, as I lay sick on my hard made bed, 1 thought 
of kindred and friends far away, good beds, and 
nourishing things. Added to this, I was sorely an- 
noyed by fleas and mosquitoes, which abound in 
Egypt, even in winter. To be taken sick in such a 
place, and under such circumstances, was a thought 
gloomy enough. In the morning, though weak and 
feverish, I besought to be set on shore, that I might 
breathe a pure air and take a little exercise. The 
sickly scent of our filthy cabin was peculiarly op- 
pressive. Our boat was then moving but slowly, 
and my English friend went on shore with me. We 
walked at a very moderate pace for about a mile. 
The morning air was balmy and bracing, while the 
odor of various kinds of trees on our way was de- 
licious and invigorating. On returning to the boat 



MAHMOUDIEH CANAL. 



45 



I felt refreshed, and from that time continued to 
mend. In two days my health was good. 

The entire length of the Mahmoudieh canal is said 
to be sixty miles. It is designed as an opening for the 
commerce of the Nile direct to Alexandria, instead of 
the hazardous route by way of Rosetta and the Me- 
diterranean. Nearly the whole distance we travel- 
led it, the canal passes near the shore of Lake Mare- 
otis, and finally unites with the Nile at the town of 
Atfe. This lake is a broad, tranquil sheet of water, 
perhaps ten or twelve miles wide, and stretching con- 
siderably farther west than the city of Alexandria. 
To the south of it, the Lybian desert spreads itself in 
boundless desolation. The Mahmoudieh canal is an 
effort of the pacha, to raise fallen Alexandria. For 
that city he seems to evince a partiality not bestow- 
ed on any other place in Egypt. This canal was 
doubtless a work of great labor, and accomplished 
at a vast sacrifice of life. It is ninety feet in width, 
and eighteen feet deep, extending through an entire 
level space, not requiring a single lock. With the 
Nile at its head, and Lake Mareotis at its side, this 
vast excavation must have been made at great in- 
convenience, from a constant flow of water into the 
works during their entire progression. 

To accomplish this work, the laboring classes of 
Lower Egypt were put in requisition. To each vil- 
lage and district was allotted the extent of work they 
were expected to perform. The Arabs marched down 
in multitudes, under their respective chiefs. The 
whole of the intended canal was lined with work- 
men at once ; and the number employed at one time, 
it is said, amounted to two hundred and fifty thou- 



46 



EGYPTIAN ENCAMPMENTS, 



sand men.* In little more time than six weeks, the 
whole excavation was completed. A few months 
was necessary for additional work, and the canal 
was opened with great pomp on the 7th of Decem- 
ber, 1819. But — awful to relate ! — it is said twenty 
thousand lives were sacrificed in completing this 
work ! Death strewed his victims from one end of 
this canal to the other. Such a process of accom- 
plishing a public enterprise, could only be carried 
out in a despotic government like that of Egypt, 
where the will of one man is absolute law. From 
his mandate there is no appeal ; and wo to the heads 
of such as dare resist one of his orders ! 

We had not passed far on the canal before we came 
to a large encampment of Egyptian cavalry. Tents 
were pitched over a considerable space, and the 
horses stood in the open air, each eating provender 
from a small clay trough. A little distant was a clus- 
tre of miserable clay huts, such as we had seen round 
the suburbs of Alexandria. Among these were, either 
sitting or wandering, a number of filthy-looking 
women and children. At different places on the canal, 
we passed several encampments of troops, presenting 
the same appearance of tents and miserable clay huts. 
But all the soldiers I saw, appeared quite civil and 
well-behaved. Martial music, such as it is, may be 
heard at all hours along the pacha's canal. Conti- 
guous to the banks are several Arab villages. Some 
of them are in ruins and deserted, while others swarm 
with inhabitants. On our morning- walk before men- 
tioned, we passed through and examined a deserted 
hamlet. Here we had the privilege of looking inside 

* Russell 



EGYPTIAN THRESHING FLOOR. 



47 



of an Arab's clay-hut. They appeared to be in every 
possible kind of form. Some of them had entrances 
similar to the mouth of an oven, and not much lar- 
ger, without any other opening to admit either air or 
light. The interior of many that we saw, was too 
low to admit a person in a higher than a sitting pos- 
ture. Even the best of them were habitations far 
too mean for human beings. Never had I examined 
anything of the kind, so sickening and deathly to 
everything that combines earthly comforts. 

Nothing of the forest kind presents itself in sight 
of the canal. Tall and beautiful palm-trees, the pride 
of Egypt, are seen scattered around every Arab vil- 
lage. The "beautiful and graceful boughs of the palm 
give it a delightful appearance. On many of them 
rich clusters of dates were still hanging. On the 
banks of the canal are many of the ombu and parai- 
so trees, both of which have a rich appearance. The 
white mulberry and honey-locust are also common. 

On the canal there appeared a considerable stir of 
business. We often passed boats loaded with wheat, 
corn, beans, and various other products. In addi- 
tion to this kind of loading, many of the crafts were 
crowded with human beings. Occasionally we met 
a boat loaded with troops. 

On the next day after leaving Alexandria, we ar- 
rived at Atfe. A mile and a half from the place, my 
English friend and I landed, and walked into the town 
It was about the middle of the day, and we found the 
weather oppressively warm. On our way we turned 
aside and took a look at an Egyptian threshing-floor, 
where men were engaged threshing wheat in afield, 
or, in other words, treading it out with oxen. No 



A.TFE. 



barns are seen in Egypt. Wheat is threshed on a 
plot of ground smoothed and prepared for the pur- 
pose, in the field where it is harvested. It is then win- 
nowed with a fan or winnowing shovel, after the cus- 
tom of two thousand years ago. The best cleaned 
wheat I saw in Egypt, had small particles of earth mix- 
ed with it ; and much of the bread in that country, par- 
ticularly that used by the natives, gives evidence that 
considerable of this article is ground into the flour. 

Atfe is a miserable Egyptian town, with a popu- 
lation of some thousands. This, to be sure, is using 
a very indefinite term ; but it is exceedingly difficult 
to arrive at anything like accuracy in computing the 
population of an ordinary Egyptian town or village, 
as nothing like a correct census is taken in Egypt. 
A. few French and Italian traders reside at Atfe, but 
the mass of the inhabitants are Arabs and Turks. 
We spent about four hours in the place, and, during 
that time, did not meet a single individual who could 
address us in English. The best houses are low and 
filthy in appearance. Indeed, a large portion of the 
town is made up of Arabian mud-huts. These espe- 
cially line the banks of the canal, as you enter the 
town from the west. They were the same despic- 
able model of mud-huts described before. Along the 
canal, one line of them seemed to rise close in rear 
of another, and then another. Thus ascending back 
from the canal, they formed a most grotesque or 
rather indescribable appearance. The streets of the 
town are only narrow, crooked alleys, and most des- 
picably filthy. In the heat of the day, as it then was, 
an offensive stench meets you in every direction. 
The canal was crowded with boats for some distance 



DIFFICULTY IN PROCEEDING. 



49 



up from the Nile ; and boats of various sizes and 
forms crowded the bank of the river. Not a wheel- 
carriage of any kind was seen. Camels and donkeys, 
bearing all kinds of burthens, throng the business 
streets ; and the traveller has to dodge in every 
direction to keep from coming in contact with these 
carrier beasts. In most parts of the East, the camel 
serves in room of drays, carts, and wagons. Boxes 
of raisins, figs, oranges, lemons, and dates, were 
piled in front of boats on the bank of the Nile. Many 
boats were discharging cargoes of beans, wheat, bar- 
ley, maize, and other kinds of grain. Finally, Atfe, 
with all its filth, presented a very considerable dis- 
play of business. 

At this place we changed boats. Between the ca- 
nal and the Nile there is a dam, so that boats do not 
pass from the one into the other. There are small 
sluices, however, in the dam, through which water 
passes from the river into the canal. Our agent to 
procure a boat for us at Atfe, was a Frenchman, with 
whom my English friend could converse. He spoke 
very discouragingly at first, and gave us fears that we 
might be detained here a day or two. He informed 
us that the Governor of Atfe had pressed into his ser- 
vice every boat that could be spared ; and that he (the 
Frenchman) had, several days before, written to the 
India Agency at Alexandria, to have no more passen- 
gers sent up the Nile by sail-boats, at present. We 
pressed our necessities, and he promised to do the best 
he could for us. In the course of two hours he suc- 
ceeded in procuring a miserable Arab boat, as the best 
that could be had. We were told that we must either 
proceed in that, or stop till a better could be obtained. 

3 



50 



THE RIVER NILE. 



We went on board, and found it bad enough in all 
conscience ; but necessity induced us to accept of it. 
Our baggage was soon conveyed on board, and we 
made ready to start. The rais, (captain,) however, 
was careful to inform us, through Selim, that he 
wanted some bucksheesh before setting out. Of 
course there was no alternative, and we handed over. 
Suddenly the rais was missing. After an absence of 
about thirty minutes he returned, and informed us, 
through Selim, that he had been out and purchased 
eighteen yards of cloth for his family; and, to be sure 
that he was not cheated, he had been careful to mea- 
sure it himself. Soon after receiving this interesting 
piece of intelligence, we got under way up the river. 

Our boat was rather large for the convenience of 
fast sailing. It had a small covered cabin in the 
stern part, and was rigged with two large lateen sails. 
As this kind of rigging is never seen in the United 
States, I will try to describe it. The boat has two 
masts, about twenty feet in height. To the top of 
each of these, a spar about seventy-five feet long is 
fastened loosely, in such a way as to play on the mast 
as on a pivot. One end of this spar is brought down 
to the gunwale of the boat, elevating the other end 
to an angle of about thirty degrees. A large sail, 
cut in nearly a triangular form, is fastened to this 
spar. The lower corner of this sail is also fastened 
to the gunwale of the boat, the opposite side from that 
on which the spar rests. Vessels rigged in this man- 
ner, have a light and picturesque appearance. 

It was on a beautiful afternoon on the 1 1th of De- 
cember. 1841, that I found myself floating, for the first 
time, on the bosom of the mighty Nile, indeed, a 



FOUAH. 



51 



new emotion was awakened from my first entrance 
on this noble stream, the frequent reading of which 
was so closely connected with my school-boy recol- 
lections. Tt was a grand sight to look upon this noble 
river, rolling its waters for nearly fifteen hundred 
miles, without receiving a single tributary ; laving a 
region which, but for it, would be a desert ; and ren- 
dering this desert, by its waters, the garden of the 
world. The Rosetta branch of the Nile, at Atfe, I 
should think considerably larger than the Hudson 
river at Albany. 

Our boat moved off at something like the rate of 
four miles to the hour, with a noise and dash through 
the water that made it appear like much greater 
speed. On starting, the wind was fair ; but at sun- 
set it died away, and the boat was tied to the shore 
for the night. About a mile and a half above Atfe, 
on the opposite side of the river, is the town of Fouah. 
Though not so large as Atfe, it has a much better 
appearance. The beautiful palm-trees around it, its 
whitened buildings, with its numerous mosques rear- 
ing above them their graceful and lofty minarets, 
give the whole place an inviting aspect. This, how- 
ever, was a rather distant view, as the river at that 
place is over a mile wide, and all Egyptian towns 
show best in the distance. 

At evening, after adjusting our beds and lying 
down, we soon found our boat sadly infested with 
rats, cockroaches, fleas, bugs, and musquitoes. A 
small dog belonging to my English friend, was placed 
as sentinel over the rats, while we contested our 
rights during the night, with the creeping things, as 
well as we could. Rut amid the contest of the dog 



52 



PLOUGHING IN EGYPT. 



with rats, and mine with bugs and fleas, I slept very 
little. Thus passed my first night on the Nile. 

Early the next morning, as the wind was ahead 
the men went on shore and towed the boat several 
miles, by pulling at a rope. About sunrise we passed 
a large encampment of the Pacha's troops. Many 
of them appeared to be running, leaping, and sport- 
ing. Some of their musicians were playing a very 
unmusical tune, as usual. Mr. C. and I went early 
on shore to take the air, and exercise ourselves with 
a walk. The sky was lurid and had a fiery appear- 
ance — a sure precursor of the dread sirocco, or wind 
from the desert. The plain of the Delta was spread 
out in beautiful prospect on every hand. We 
passed several Arabs engaged ploughing and sowing. 
Though it was the Christian Sabbath, it was not the 
Mohammedan. Theirs is on Friday ; and from all I 
could see in the East, is scarcely observed by the 
Mohammedans themselves. The mode of agricul- 
ture which we here witnessed, reminded me of an- 
cient oriental customs. They were ploughing with 
oxen. A pole, separating the oxen about six feet 
from each other, was laid on the necks of the animals, 
and fastened with ropes, instead of ox-bows. The 
beam of the plough was of sufficient length to be 
tied to the pole that crossed the cattle's necks. The 
plough had no mould-board, but was simply a piece 
of wood shod and pointed with iron. The furrows, 
in passing over the field, were made near each other. 
This is ploughing in Egypt ; and this the uniform 
apparatus for turning up the soil in that country. 

At that season of the year, the plain of the Delta 
is certainly picturesque and beautiful. Its numerous 



SIROCCO ON THE NILE. 



53 



clusters of palm and other trees, known only in that 
climate — its splendid orange and lemon groves — its 
numerous flocks of cattle, sheep, goats, camels, and 
donkeys — its countless flocks of large and small birds 
of various colors and plumage — all combine to ren- 
der the scenery along the Nile delightful. But when 
you say this, you say nearly all. Art has retrograded 
in that country, for hundreds of years. The misera- 
ble Arab villages which spot this vast region, with the 
filthy and degraded inmates of those wretched ham- 
lets, remind you of the plagues of Egypt. With an 
enlightened and refined people, under a free and lib- 
eral government, Egypt might be made what it once 
was, the garden and granary of the East. But, alas ! 
what is it under its present despotic government, and 
in the hands of its miserable inhabitants ? How has 
the mighty fallen and the glory departed ! 

We went on board at about eleven o clock, and 
found our miserable cook had not yet got our break- 
fast prepared. We got nothing to eat till after twelve 
o'clock. Then just as we sat down, the wind blew 
a gale. The dread sirocco had fairly set in. Our 
boat was rapidly carried across the Nile, and, in its 
passage, so thrown on the side that it required our 
utmost effort to prevent our scanty breakfast, crock- 
ery and all, being thrown on the filthy cabin floor. 
This was no small affliction to two hungry men. On 
reaching the opposite side, the boat was tied up for 
better weather. Towards evening the wind lulled, 
and our boatmen towed up two miles farther, to a 
miserable Arab village, where w T e lay over night. 

The next morning, about sunrise, our boat was in 
slow progress ; but the wind was still ahead. The 



54 



ABDE. 



men towed about three miles, crossed the river, and 
stopped for breakfast. The wind was rising. The 
lull that had been experienced the evening before, 
was only a preparation for a more furious gale. The 
sky had a very hazy and fiery appearance. The gale 
rose to much greater severity than on the previous 
day. We were obliged to lie-by till towards night. 
My English friend had a good rifle. Preparing this, 
and taking Seiim with us on shore, we determined to 
divert ourselves a little in search of game. We soon 
found, however, that the wind blew too hard for our 
comfort as well as our success in hunting. We saw 
many birds, but killed none. Many Arabs were out, 
indifferent to the gale. Some were ploughing, and 
others lolling on the ground, wrapped in their blan- 
kets. In one direction we could see herdsmen tend- 
ing cattle, camels, and donkeys. In another direction 
shepherds were tending flocks of sheep and goats. In 
our ramble we came to a beautiful orange-grove load- 
ed with luxuriant fruit. Two Arabs were lying on 
the ground keeping watch. We tried to purchase 
some oranges of them. They refused to sell us any, 
and replied " bad, bad — not good ! " No doubt the 
secret was, they were only servants, and dare not sell 
a single orange without the consent of their master. 

Towards night, the wind having slacked, the men 
towed a short distance, crossed the river and tied up 
for the night near a small village called Abde. As 
some articles of our provisions were now getting scan- 
ty, we furnished Selim with some small Egyptian coin, 
and sent him off to purchase an additional stock of 
eatables. As it was not yet sun-set, we stepped 
ashore and walked up to the Arab village. Both of 



EASTERN SALUTATION, 



55 



us felt a curiosity to inspect one of those singular 
hamlets. Here I will remark that neither fences nor 
hedges are seen on the Delta. Flocks and herds are 
tended by day and folded by night. Nor are farm- 
houses scattered over the country, as in the United 
States. The inhabitants all settle in villages. A 
portion of land is assigned to the inhabitants of each 
village to work. The fee of the soil in Egypt rests en- 
tirely in the government and the government is em- 
phatically the pacha himself. Each village has a 
governor appointed over it by the pacha, who sees 
to the cultivating of the soil ; and those who do the 
work, receive but one-third of the products. Such 
villages are scattered along both sides of the Nile, at 
from one to two miles apart. 

We visited the village of Abde. First we passed 
round the outskirts of it ; and, finding the inhabitants 
civil and by no means shy of us, we ventured through 
several of the streets. All met or passed us with 
civility, and several gave us the Arab salutation. 
This consists in first laying the right hand on the 
breast and then on the forehead, at the same time 
uttering the word tybene — well. There was a small 
mosque in the village, and graves near it. This was 
built with some taste and had considerable decora- 
tions. You will invariably see as much as one 
mosque in every village on the Nile. All the other 
buildings were of an abject and miserable kind, get 
nerally made of unburnt bricks, and plastered out- 
side with clay, mixed with straw. Many of them 
were the miserable kind of clay cells described be- 
fore. We did not intrude so far as to enter one of 
their houses, but looking through doors, or rather holes 



56 



ARAB CUSTOMS. 



in the wall as we passed, we chose from what we 
saw to keep outside. We saw not a well-dressed per- 
son in all the village. Rags and filth were so com- 
mon, that there appeared to be but little distinction. 
The streets were small, narrow lanes, and often be- 
tween a square of houses would be a cattle-pen or 
sheep-fold. Brutes and men seemed to live in near 
companionship. Under a small covering, resembling 
a farmer's hovel, we saw two girls driving an ox 
round a circuit. An Arab was standing near, and 
as we approached, he saluted us with a smiling coun- 
tenance. The ox was turning a small mill, simply 
constructed, and grinding wheat. The Arabs use no 
bolt in preparing their grain for bread, but eat the 
real Graham article. Among them the business of 
grinding is performed by the women. 

Just at the setting of the sun, the women of each 
village may be seen passing to the Nile, each" bear- 
ing on her head a rude piece of pottery called a 
pitcher, large enough to hold two or three gallons. 
These they fill with the muddy water of the Nile, 
and then bear them back in the same manner. The 
sight is picturesque. On our way back to the boat, 
I turned and looked at this scene, and then remem- 
bered the pictures I had gazed on when a boy, de- 
lineating the customs in the East. 



FOURDBILCHE. 



57 



CHAPTER IV. 

Continuance of the Sirocco — Visit to an Arab Village — A ludicious Blus- 
ter—Village Scenery — Rain in Egypt — Slow Progress and poor Pros- 
pects — The Rais' wife and Children — Crocodiles — A fight — Determined 
on a new mode of conveyance— All's well that ends well— New mode 
of travelling— Arab Fishermen — Irrigation of land in Egypt — A crowd- 
ed Ferry-boat — Selim's alarm and fears — A night's lodging — The 
Pacha's Palace — Ibrahim's Palace — Beautiful Scenery — Arrival at 
Cairo and visit to the American Consul. 

The next morning when we arose, the sky was 
still hazy and of a fiery appearance. The sun rose 
pale and sickly, and the Sirocco was still blowing 
with unabated fury. Before breakfast we went on 
shore as usual, but the air seemed to be filled with 
fine drifting sand, which rendered our eyes painful. 
We soon returned on board, when the men raised a 
sail and ran the boat about two miles, the length of 
a bend in the river. Here we were brought up by 
the wind blowing directly against us on the next 
bend. This brought us to the village of Fourdbilche, 
where we lay-to about four hours. Here we again 
went on shore, rambled about, shooting at eagles 
and other birds, but killed nothing. We finally 
concluded to take a ramble into this village. 

On our approach, we first came to a mill, turned 
by an ox, and in all respects similar to the one I have 
before described. A woman was engaged tending it 
and driving the animal. As we stopped for a moment, 
she turned upon us a most wrathful countenance, and 
belched at us, what we supposed to be a curse, begin- 
ning with the word Allah. We then passed round 
the village. On the south side were several graves 
3* 



58 



ARAB GRAVES. 



and tombs. Every Arab grave that I saw in Egypt, 
seemed first to have had the earth rounded upon 
it, similar to graves with us. Over this, a white ce- 
ment is spread, forming a small knob at the head. 
On drying, this cement becomes nearly as hard as 
stone. I remarked that in this village, graves were 
close by dwelling-houses, and in some instances, di- 
rectly by the side of doors. The houses and every 
thing we saw, were very similar to those in Abde, 
except that the inhabitants were more shy of us, 
and some of them more wrathful in their looks. 

Near sunset, the wind having slacked, our boat 
was got under way by towing. The men labored 
in this way till about eleven o'clock at night, and 
then tied up the boat. 

We were up by sunrise on the next morning. Our 
boatmen sat idle and looked sulky. We inquired, 
through Selim, why they did not proceed, as there 
was then but little wind, and they could tow. Selim 
said they were determined to wait for wind. Mr. C. 
stormed loudly and shook his cane at them. For a 
few minutes the scene was truly ludicrous. There 
stood the Englishman storming in his language, and 
the Arabs in theirs, and neither party understanding 
the other. Mr. C. by his gestures, however, made 
them understand there was wrath for them if they 
did not proceed immediately. They suddenly cow- 
ered down and started the boat. 

After a slight breakfast, we took Selim on shore to 
procure a fresh supply of provisions. We walked 
up the Nile to the neighboring village of Shaboor. 
Here we tried to purchase some fowls and eggs, but 
could obtain none. We spent an hour in this village 



PLACES OF WORSHIP. 



S9 



and walked through various parts of it. The in- 
habitants appeared friendly and not shy of us. But 
all in and around the place was much like what I 
have described of other villages. Children were 
numerous — many of them in an entire state of nudity, 
and the whole place appeared closely tenanted. 
. Passing out of the village, we came to a mosque with 
the door open. As I had never seen the inside of a 
Mohammedan place of worship, curiosity led me to 
take a look at this. The interior was much more 
ordinary than the outside. Nothing was to be seen 
worthy of note, except that the whole place was very 
filthy. Around this mosque were a large number of 
graves and tombs. Many beautiful palm-trees were 
scattered in and around this village, on some of 
which large clusters of dates were still hanging. 

A cloud was now gathering in the north-west, 
bearing signs of rain. This we had long desired, 
hoping it would bring with it a change of wind. As 
the cloud began to rise, we hastened on board, and 
soon it rained copiously. I remembered that some- 
where I had read that it never rains in Egypt ! How 
strange, thought L Rarely did I ever see it rain 
faster, though for only a few minutes. I was told 
that there are occasional showers even as high up as 
Thebes and the cataracts of the Nile. The wind 
shifted with this shower, and soon we had a favor- 
able breeze. Our boat now moved on its way brisk- 
ly, and all became cheerful. Large flocks of wild- 
geese, ducks, storks and herons, were seen along the 
river. We also saw one large pelican of the desert. 
This was the first living species of that bird I had 
ever seen. 



60 SANDS OF THE DESERT, 

v 



Our boat was kept running all night before a good 
breeze. This was fortunate, for the next morning 
the breeze entirely died away. The sun shone hot, 
and the day was as warm as June in New England. 
About 1 1 o'clock, a. m., we lay-to just above a large 
village called Zonitrazin. The rais of our boat had 
stopped at this village to procure, as he said, bread 
for the boatmen. After waiting two hours for him, 
the boat proceeded on, leaving him to come when he 
got ready. As we had no wind, the men were com- 
pelled to tow. The progress thus made is not to 
exceed a mile and a half an hour. The men, how- 
ever, had worked faithfully four hours, and no rais 
had come yet. They had eaten nothing since morn- 
ing, and four of them declared they would proceed 
no further, but would leave the boat and go for some- 
thing to eat. We were then not near any village. 
On learning our situation, through Selim, we request- 
ed him to say to the men, if they would proceed with 
the boat, we would buy them bread at the next vil- 
lage. This soon brought them on board. The wind 
was rising, our sails were set, and we proceeded on. 

During this day, as we advanced up the Nile, the 
vale on the west, or Lybian side, became narrow. 
Beyond it the yellow sands of the desert lay spread 
to view as far as the eye could stretch. Towards 
night we passed in sight of a camp of Bedoin Arabs. 
These were the first that I had ever seen of that 
wandering class of barbarians, and little did I then 
suppose that such were soon to be my guides and 
protectors through the dangerous region of Arabia 
Petra. Their tents were black, and their persons, 
with everything around them, bore a wild and savage 



VENISILLAMA. 



61 



appearance. At half-past ten, p. m., our men refused 
to proceed any further that night on any conditions, 
though the wind was favorable. This was truly 
vexatious, but what could we do but submit 1 

When morning light came, we found ourselves 
lying beside a miserable village called Venisillama, 
on the Lybian side of the river. All we had left for 
our breakfast were a few eggs, some hard dry bread, 
and some coffee. We commissioned Selim to try at 
this village for some fowls and milk. I walked with 
him through several of its miserable lanes, but he 
could purchase nothing, though I saw plenty of fowls 
and cattle. This village was built very compact, its 
streets being not more than six or eight feet wide. 
The houses were all constructed of mud, and built 
in every imaginable form. Some of them were square 
and covered with loose bamboo reeds, while others 
were round and covered in the same manner. The 
shape of some of the houses resembled that of a coal- 
pit just covered, or a straw bee-hive ; while others 
were constructed in form like an oven, with a similar 
mouth for entrance. The door or entrance into any 
habitation was a mere ill-shapen breach in the wall. 
Cow-yards and sheep-folds were mixed in with the 
houses in every part of the village. It is extremely 
difficult accurately to estimate the population of an 
Arabian village. They most probably range from 
three hundred to fifteen hundred souls. At this place 
the Lybian desert comes down to the Nile. There is,* 
indeed, a small green strip of land in rear of this 
village, but beyond that is an entire sandy waste. 
The village stands on the Lybian sands. 

At ten o'clock in the morning the rais, who had 



62 



CROCODILES. 



left the boat twenty hours before, returned, bringing 
with him his wife and two small children. She was 
tattooed on her chin, cheeks and forehead, the 
punctures of which were dyed with blue. This I 
found very common among females in Egypt, where 
their faces were to be seen. The two children were 
girls, and both were marked in the same barbarous 
manner. The boat was soon got under way, towed 
about half a mile, and the sails set. The wind, how- 
ever, proved to be rather ahead, and after sailing 
about a mile farther, it was tied up on the opposite 
shore. Here, while I was sitting on the bank of the 
river, three small crocodiles rose for a minute to the 
surface, and then suddenly disappeared. They were 
the only ones I saw on the Nile, and I was informed 
they are rarely seen at all. below Cairo. 

At this place a sharp contention took place be- 
tween two of the boatmen and the rais ; the result 
of which was, the two boatmen left. After waiting 
an hour and a half the boat was towed forward. In 
the meantime the rais followed the men who had left, 
and succeeded in bringing them back. Selim and 
my English friend had gone to a village further up 
the river, to purchase provisions. They returned 
about the middle of the afternoon, with a little mut- 
ton, some coarse-looking Arab bread, some dates, and 
a few oranges. They stated that it was very diffi- 
cult for them to purchase provisions of any kind. 
As the little they procured could last us but a short 
time, Mr. C. was determined to leave the boat, hire 
camels, and take our baggage direct to Cairo. We 
took our coarse dinner at about four o'clock, and 
really found the Arab bread better than we had ex- 



AN ARAB FIGHT. 



63 



pected. This done, Mr. C. and Selim set out for the 
next village to engage camels, while I remained on 
board to see to our baggage. Soon after, the boat 
arrived at the village of Abonishabi, where they had 
gone. They soon came on board with an Arabian 
camel driver, having agreed on the price for taking 
us the next day to Cairo. Right glad were we at the 
prospect of leaving the old miserable, filthy boat, and 
its brutish crew. The}' here tied up for the night. 

On a boat lying very near to ours, two Arabs got 
into a noisy quarrel, and from that to fisticuffs. 
They fought like two savages, as they really were. 
At length one of them getting the better of the other, 
caught up a heavy stick, and beat his antagonist in 
a most brutal manner. 

A kind of fair had been held in the village during 
the day. A very large tent was pitched near the 
place where our boat was tied. Curiosity led us to 
visit it. We found a select company of Arabs seat- 
ed around, smoking and taking coffee. We were 
pointed to a seat, and soon coffee w T as served us. It 
was rich, and of an excellent flavor. 

Morning came and the camels we had engaged 
were early on the shore to receive us and our bag- 
gage. We were hurrying through with our sparing- 
breakfast, elated with the prospect of soon being in 
Cairo. Suddenly Selim entered the cabin crying, 
" the camels are going ! the camels are going ! " And 
sure enough, the governor of the place had sent an 
officer to seize them for his own service. Here was 
a new scene of trouble. We were nearly out of 
every thing to eat, and found it all but impossible to 
purchase wholesome food to subsist upon. We took 



64 



CHANGE OF CONVEYANCE. 



Selim and went to the governor, who was pointed 
out to us, standing a few rods further up the river. 
Taking off our hats, we made an humble salutation 
to his excellency. He was a man of about thirty-five, 
well dressed in Turkish style, with a silver crescent 
and star on his right breast. His stature was tall and 
his countenance rather handsome, with a most ser- 
pent-looking eye. All that Selim could say availed 
nothing. His reply was, " Go and hire other camels ; 
you cannot have these." He well knew we could 
hire no others when it was known through the vil- 
lage that he had seized those we had hired. We, how- 
ever, set out in pursuit of other camels, but after a 
fruitless search of over half an hour, Selim became 
discouraged, said he could do no more, and insisted 
that we must keep the boat. Mr. C. declared that 
he should be sick and would die if confined much 
longer to that wretched boat. He finally started 
alone for the governor, who was still standing where 
he had left him. Uncovering once more to his ex- 
cellency, and taking out a.handful of gold, with tears 
in his eyes, he made signs that he was sick and must 
be taken to Cairo. Gold produces a peculiar charm 
upon a Turk. By this time he probably began to 
suppose he was treating with men of some conse- 
quence. He immediately softened down, and coming 
near to where I was standing, gave orders to a man 
to go with Selim and get camels for us. In about 
an hour, two camels, two donkeys and a horse were 
obtained. Our baggage was soon placed on the 
camels, and after paying one half of the sum agreed 
upon, at 11 o'clock, we were on our way to Cairo, 
taking Selim with us. 



ARAB FISHERIES. 



65 



From the village where we left the boat, the dis- 
tance to Cairo must be as much as thirty miles ; 
though from what had been told us, we supposed it 
was not more than half that distance. Among 
Arabs, however, you can learn but very little of dis- 
tance, computing by miles. Inquire the distance to 
any place and they will say so many hours, or so 
many days ; measuring the ordinary time of travel- 
ling the distance with loaded camels. 

In taking our direct course for Cairo, we struck 
immediately off from the Nile back into the country. 
This gave us the opportunity of seeing lands and vil- 
lages not often visited by Frank travellers. Our 
route was over most beautiful and fertile lands, 
where numerous herdsmen were tending cattle, 
camels, and donkeys, and shepherds their flocks. 
Large flocks of storks, herons, wild geese, ducks, and 
other birds, for many of which I had no name, were 
flying in every direction. Early on our journey, we 
passed a deep cut, extending miles back from the 
Nile, to draw water into the interior for the purpose 
of irrigating the land. In approaching a certain 
point of this cut, we noticed a flock of large hawks 
flying around in a circuitous manner. Drawing near 
the place, we saw a number of Arabs engaged taking 
fish with small scoop-nets, while the hawks seemed 
ready to contest a portion of the spoil. Men were 
wading in the water in an entire state of nudity, 
while women on shore were gathering up the fish 
in baskets. The fish were of an inferior quality. 

Not far from this place we saw men engaged in 
irrigating land. The process is simple. The land to 
be irrigated is first sown. A large range, entirely 



66 



IRRIGATION OF LAND. 



level, is laid out into sections of about a rod square. 
To do this, small ridges of earth are made to cross 
each other at right angles, about a rod apart. A 
small trench is made in the centre of each ridge, in 
which the water can run. The water was raised 
out of the cut before named, by means of a wheel 
with earthen buckets fastened to it and turned by a 
buffalo. The buckets filled as the wheel revolved, 
and emptied by the same process. The water ran 
out on the land in the trenches I have described. 
Places were opened from the trenches into each 
square and closed again. By this process every 
part of the field was in due time watered. Although 
this was on the 18th of December, the weather was as 
warm as June in New-England. There is no winter 
in Egypt to impede the growth of grain, and hence two 
crops a year maybe obtained from the same ground. 
We saw large fields of wheat, barley, flax, beans, 
cotton and sugar-cane, in a state of luxuriant growth. 

During our first day's travel we passed nine Arab 
villages. These are generally situated on a slight 
eminence, and surrounded with beautiful and lofty 
palm trees and orange groves, which give them a 
pretty appearance in the distance. But the moment 
you come near them, beauty vanishes, and the same 
uniform filthiness, found in all of them, renders them 
odious and repulsive. Approaching the village of 
Mitnameh, we passed a large cotton-field. This 
was the first cotton I had seen growing in Egypt. 
From the appearance of this, I should judge that 
Egypt is well adapted to the growth of that article. 
We passed many luxuriant fields of sugar-cane near 
this village, and further on our way. In the same 



BEDOIN ARABS. 



ffl 



vicinity was an immense brick-kiln burning, and an- 
other building. A large number of hands were en- 
gaged carrying bricks to the kiln, from every part 
of an immense yard. The bricks were carried on 
their heads in baskets, and the carriers sung as they 
went, much as I have heard southern slaves when 
at their field-labor. 

When we arrived at this village, I was surprised 
to see the immense quantity of corn that lay piled in 
the ear, recently husked. I examined and found it 
much like our Indian corn. It was of a white color, 
and the ears rather small. At this place the two 
large pyramids of Gizah were plain in view, rearing 
their lofty tops in solitary grandeur. They seemed 
but a few miles distant, when in reality we were 
more than twenty miles from them. 

Between four and five o'clock, we crossed the 
Darnietta branch of the Nile, at the village of Me- 
talpheh. Our two camels with their loads, one 
horse, three donkeys and nine men, were all crowd- 
ed into a keel-boat of rather small dimensions for 
such a load. With no little apprehension of danger, 
we however crossed and made a safe landing. At 
this village we purchased a few oranges, some press- 
ed dates, and a quantity of coarse bread. This was 
the only food we expected till we arrived at Cairo. 

About one hour further on, we passed an encamp- 
ment of Bedoin Arabs, and soon another. Their black 
tents and savage looks drew rather hard upon poor 
Selim's courage. Night was coming on, and he ex- 
pressed fears that we might fall in with more of them 
and be robbed. Mr. C. had two guns and a brace of 
pistols, and Selim wished to have them got out. The 



68 



governor's house. 



guns were taken from among the baggage, and at his 
request one of them was handed to him. He inquir- 
ed, however, if it was loaded. " All ready," said Mr. 
C. Selim then insisted that I should take the other, 
charging me to see that that, too, was ready. "All 
ready," said Mr. 0. Selim shouldered his gun with 
all the importance of a grenadier, exclaiming, " Now 
I no fraid to go. I no fraid to travel all night." The 
plain truth was, there was no charge in either gun. 
This I knew, but Mr. C. was quite willing that Selim 
and the other Arabs with us, should think the guns 
were loaded. The ammunition had been put in a 
trunk and could not be got at without disturbing the 
whole baggage. Selim never found out that he had 
carried an empty gun till the next morning, after all 
his apprehended dangers were over, and then he 
laughed heartily with us at the joke. 

The moon shone pleasant and we travelled till eight 
o'clock, when we came to the village of Abfattah. 
Here Selim's courage all suddenly evaporated, and he 
declared it would not do to go any further that night. 
He insisted that we should be robbed if we proceeded. 
Of course we had no alternative left but to try what 
fare we could find in an Arab village. Selim first went 
to the house of the governor, but before he had half 
stated his errand, the door was slammed in his face : 
a sufficient hint that no entertainment would be af- 
forded us there. Several other places were tried but 
with no better success. We finally began to think 
we should have to lie down in the open air. At length 
a Nubian who resided in the village, came to us, ex- 
pressed pity for us in our condition, and kindly invit- 
ed us to his habitation. He was dressed in Turkish 



THE PACHA'S PALACE. 



69 



style, but was clean and neat in his appearance. 
His countenance was black, but his features were 
regular and rather handsome. The mildness of his 
eye denoted a benevolent heart, and I should think 
from his appearance, that he was considered wealthy. 
We were conducted into a room with a ground floor, 
without window or chimney. There was, however, 
a place to kindle a fire, but none to let the smoke out, 
except the door and holes in the wall. He made a 
blaze with cornstalks, which afforded us light to get 
our baggage in, but soon the room was so filled with 
smoke that we were obliged to go into the open air 
to take breath. Searching our canteen, we found 
part of a candle, which we lit, and then begged to 
have no more cornstalks burnt. We tried to get some 
hot water to make a little tea, but were unable to do 
it. Mr. C. and I made our supper of coarse Arab bread, 
some pressed dates and a few oranges, while Selim and 
our camel drivers gathered round in a circle, and ate 
what they had. Our scanty bedding was then spread 
on the ground floor, and we covered ourselves for the 
night. Our Nubian host brought in his mattress and 
slept in the same room, while the Arabs who came 
with us laid down in their blankets, and soon all 
around were silent. Though considerably annoyed 
with fleas, I slept tolerably well during the night. 

Early the next norning, we took leave of this be- 
nevolent Nubian, who refused any remuneration we 
offered. He, however, accepted the present of a 
small quantity of gunpowder. About two hours' tra- 
vel brought us to the Pacha's palace, on the Nile. It 
is very large and shows to considerable advantage 
at a distance, but when we came near to it, its beau- 



70 



CAIRO. 



ty greatly diminished. Its walls were much out of 
repair. There was a splendid show of windows at a 
distance, but when we drew near, they were found 
to be bricked up. Nor did there appear to be much 
real taste displayed in the grounds around it. I no- 
ticed near i't. a large field of cotton, and near that 
another of sugar-cane. As we were not in a condi- 
tion to stop, we did not visit the gardens of this pa- 
lace, which are represented as very fine. 

We had now arrived again at the Nile. As we 
passed onward, we saw more and more indications 
that we were approaching a great city. At one place 
we met fifteen camels loaded with cotton. Each 
camel carried five bales. Camels, horses, and don- 
keys, were bearing into Cairo various kinds of vege- 
tables and other products to market. The road was 
literally crowded, and all was bustle and stir. For 
three miles before reaching Cairo, the road is truly 
beautiful. Honey locusts, mimosa and other orna- 
mental trees, are set close in lines, forming a beauti- 
ful shade on both sides. The air was balmy and lux- 
uriant. Patches of lotus, sugar-cane and bananas, 
with groves of olive and orange, became numerous. 

Amid the bustle of hundreds who were going every 
way on the road, we noticed an old, tall, lean Arab, 
of haggard countenance and filthy dress, approaching 
us. Putting his hand into a filthy bag which he car- 
ried under his arm, he drew out a large serpent and 
held it up, writhing and twisting round his arm. He 
then let it coil round his neck, and opening his mouth 
permitted the serpent to thrust his head into it. Af- 
ter several like feats with that serpent, he put it back 
into his bag and drew out another of black and yel- 



IBRAHIM'S PALACE 



?1 



low appearance. This serpent was permitted to per- 
form similar acts. Putting that back into his bag, he 
took out a live scorpion. After holding this reptile 
up in his hand, he opened his mouth and thrust the 
scorpion into it. At this awful sight, we started on. 
Pulling the scorpion out of his mouth, the old fellow 
ran after us crying, " backsheesh me ! backsheesh me ! " 

About two miles from Cairo, we came to the seat 
of Ibrahim Pacha. This, with the scenery around it, 
had a much more splendid appearance than that of 
his father which we had just passed. His gardens, 
with fountains, arbors, and ornamental shrubbery, 
had a beautiful appearance. Between Ibrahim's 
palace and Cairo there are several splendid seats. 
Indeed, the scenery for one mile onward, is highly 
picturesque and inviting. At about three o'clock, 
p.m., we entered the city of Grand Cairo, the famous 
seat of so many oriental tales and of as much 
eastern legendary. After winding along narrow and 
filthy streets for about one mile, we arrived at the 
place where I had been recommended to take lodg- 
ings. This completed just nine days from Alexandria. 

After partaking of a meal prepared in a hurry, 
and making some shift of wardrobe, I hastened to 
pay my respects to Mr. Gliddon, the American con- 
sul. He received me very courteously, and kindly 
offered me any assistance in his power to render. 



72 



PYRAMIDS OF GIZAH. 



CHAPTER V. 

Visit to the Pyramids of Gizah — Old Cairo — Island of Roda — The Sphynx 
— Pyramid Cheops — Examination of its Interior — Ascent to its Top — 
Magnificent View— Descent— Oppressive Attention of the Arabs — Cat- 
acombs. 

As the steamer from Alexandria was expected 
hourly, on the arrival of which my English friend 
was to embark for India, he was anxious, before 
leaving, that I should accompany him on a visit to 
the pyramids, the two largest of which are situated 
about eight miles from Cairo. Without waiting to 
take a view of the city, we set out on the morn- 
ing of the 20th of December, mounted on donkeys 
and accompanied by a guide, for the purpose of vis- 
iting those vast monuments of antiquity, ranked 
among the world's wonders. Threading narrow and 
crowded streets for a long distance, we at length 
passed out of the city by a gate on the west side. 
Our course lay direct to Old Cairo, which is situated 
on the banks of the Nile, distant from the wall of the 
present city about three miles. It is now but a small 
place, and has in its suburbs many ruins. Near Old 
Cairo is the small island of Roda, where, according 
to tradition, Pharoah's daughter found the infant 
Moses. This little island is one of the prettiest spots 
around Cairo. On it is a large fine palace, belong- 
ing to Ibrahim Pacha, and other buildings, which 
show to good advantage. The gardens on this is- 
land are spacious and highly cultivated. At the 
south end is the ancient Nilometer, which has stood 
there for centuries, marking the rise and fall of the 
Nile during its annual overflowings. 

At Old Cairo we crossed the river in a ferry-boat, 



OLD CAIRO 



78 



to Gizah. This is a considerable town on the west 
bank of the Nile. Here we again mounted our don- 
keys and set off on a full gallop, desiring to lose as 
little time as possible by the way. The pyramids are 
situated five miles west of Gizah, on the edge of the 
Lybian Desert. They are in fair view as you pass 
out of the town, and do not appear to be one half of 
that distance. On our way we passed the villages 
of Conesse and El Goboor. At the latter the pyra- 
mids would seem not more than half a mile off, when, 
in reality, the distance is all of two miles. A short 
distance east of the largest pyramid, is the village 
of El Cafera. 

Approaching the pyramids from a south-east di- 
rection, we came first to the Sphynx. This stands 
about eighty rods from the pyramid Cheops, and di- 
rectly in the midst of an enormous sand-bank. The 
ground rises from it towards the desert in two direc- 
tions; consequently the sands have been drifting upon 
it for thousands of years. It presents the upper part 
of a human image, cut out of a solid block of granite. 
Such are the vast dimensions of the part still visible, 
that the whole image, could it be extricated from 
the sand, doubtless would greatly astonish the be- 
holder. Only the head, neck, shoulders, and breast 
are to be seen. The face is now considerably mar- 
red, the nose being quite broken off. Originally its 
countenance must have been very natural, mild, and 
intelligent. It stands as if looking towards the 
rising sun, and as a guardian genius in the midst of 
mighty sepulchres. When it was sculptured — who 
was the artist — or what was the certainty of its de- 
sign — are all wholly lost in the vast labyrinth of its 

4 



74 



PYRAMID CHEOPS. 



age._ It, however, stands as an enduring monument 
of ancient art, and shows that sculpture nourished in 
Egypt to an astonishing state of perfection, ere the 
science of letters was known. 

From the Sphynx we ascended the sand eminence 
to the largest pyramid, called Cheops. This enor- 
mous pile covers over eleven acres of land, and is 
exactly square at its base, the sides perfectly match- 
ing to the four cardinal points. The stones of which 
it is constructed, are of vast dimensions, and are 
placed in layers one above another. Each layer is 
placed farther inward, say the distance generally of 
about three feet and a half ; thus forming steps to as- 
cend upon. It tapers in this regular manner, from all 
its sides. Some of the layers, however, are thicker 
than others, some being not more than eighteen 
inches, and some more than three feet. In this form 
the pyramid rises, till the summit is contracted to a 
square space of about twenty feet. Indeed, the top 
bears the appearance of having once ascended 
higher ; as, from its broken state, stones appear to 
have been thrown off. The whole rises to the enor- 
mous height of nearly five hundred feet, and appears 
to be entirely solid stone and cement, with the ex- 
ception of the small cavity which I shall presently 
describe. I was not in a situation to measure its 
exact height, but the best of authors set it down as 
above stated. The number of layers of stone from 
bottom to top, is two hundred and six, making just 
so many steps. The whole pile is supposed to con- 
tain about six million cubic feet of stone. 

Our guide first led us to the entrance, which is on 
the north side : and recommended us to explore the 



INTERIOR OF CHEOPS. 



75 



interior first. A crowd of ragged Arabs were gath- 
ered at the place, each struggling to have something 
to do with conducting us. We charged our guide to 
admit but four with us ; but a fifth got in. We had 
two lights with us. The entrance begins at the six- 
teenth step. It is a passage of three feet and a half 
square, descending at an angle of twenty-seven de- 
grees. Its sides and covering are of polished granite. 
This descent extends straight forward ninety-two 
feet, keeping a person in an extreme stooping posture 
all the way. Here the passage turns to the right, 
winding upwards to a steep ascent of eight or nine 
feet. At the termination of this, the passage becomes 
five feet high for the distance of about one hundred 
feet, ascending continually till you arrive at a kind 
of landing-place. Directly to the right of this, some- 
thing like a trench in the wall discovers itself, into 
which you are permitted to look as into a dark chasm. 
It is called the Well. Beyond this, the explorer moves 
through a long level passage, and arrives at what is 
called the Queen's Chamber. This is a room seven- 
teen feet long, fourteen wide, and twelve high. Its 
sides and covering are of polished granite. A short 
distance beyond this is another opening, into which 
I did not enter, as it is partly filled with fallen stones, 
and contains nothing of very peculiar interest. The 
Queen's Chamber was empty, except that numerous 
bats, of enormous size, were flying about in it. 

Leaving this room, and passing immediately back 
the way we came, about eighty feet, we turned to the 
right and commenced ascending an inclined plane 
of smooth granite, of about one hundred and twenty 
feet in length. The first part of this ascent is diffi- 



70 



king's chamber. 



cult, as you have to advance on a narrow strip of 
granite, with slight holes cut for steps, while at your 
side is a chasm deepening as you rise. You at length 
step on solid footing, and have a clear passage the 
rest of the way, at the termination of which you en- 
ter the King's Chamber. This is about thirtj'-seven 
feet long, seventeen wide, and twenty high. The 
walls of this room are of polished sironite or red 
granite, each stone extending from the floor to the 
ceiling. The ceiling is of nine large slabs of granite, 
extending from wall to wall. At one end of this 
chamber stands a sarcophagus. This is also of 
granite, and must have been chiselled out of a solid 
block. Its present appearance is that of a large 
stone chest, seven feet and a half long, three feet 
three inches wide, and three and a half deep. 
Whether it ever contained a human body, is wholly 
uncertain. If it ever did, there is no trace of it now. 
It will be remarked by the reader that the size of this 
sarcophagus is such that it could not have been con- 
veyed through the entrance of the pyramid to this 
room, after the whole pile was completed. It conse- 
quently must have been placed where it is now seen, 
at the time the pyramid was building. That the 
pyramid was designed for the sepulchre of some 
great king, is most probable ; and that this room 
was designed as the place for depositing his body, 
is equally probable. The difficult, narrow, steep, 
and even dangerous passage to it, was obviously 
designed for its security, that the sepulchre might 
not be easily found to be ravaged or pillaged. 

The King's Chamber is the termination of re- 
search, as all beyond that appears to be solid rock 



THE WELL. 



77 



and cement. Numerous bats were flitting about in 
this deep and lonely recess, and the heated state of 
the air was truly oppressive. No person can endure 
it long without painful sensations. We now has- 
tened to retrace our steps to the place of entrance. 

After descending to the first landing-place, I 
stopped a moment to look into what is called the 
Well. It presents nothing but a dark chasm, said 
to be of vast depth ; and had I felt assured that the 
enterprise was practicable, I had not sufficient curi- 
osity to attempt a descent into it. Oppressed with 
the heated and confined air, I was in haste to breathe 
again the atmosphere of day. On arriving at the 
place of entrance, I was in a state of profuse per- 
spiration. We seated ourselves a few minutes, and 
then prepared to ascend the pyramid. 

We commissioned our guide to permit but four 
Arabs to ascend with us ; but in spite of his efforts, 
there were six. We, however, found this number very 
useful. One to hold each arm, and one to brace the 
explorer behind, render the ascent perfectly safe. 
The place of commencing the ascent, is near the 
north-east corner. The Arabs clambered up with 
more rapidity, than was desirable to me, often drag- 
ging me after them with such force as to put me near- 
ly out of breath. Sometimes I had to roar lustily to 
make them slack their hands. It was not till I had 
ascended one-third of the distance, that I began to 
realize the vast height I had to climb. Pausing to 
take breath, I first looked down and then up, and felt 
almost discouraged with my task. My English friend 
proceeded, and I followed. Arriving at what is called 
the half-way, we paused again to take breath. Here 



78 



ASCENT OF CHEOPS. 



the Arabs began to cry " backsheesh ; " but we gave 
thern to understand that they would receive none till 
we had done with them. While we were at this 
place, three vultures flew from the top of the pyra- 
mid, startled, no doubt, by the sound of our voices. 
After a pause of some three minutes we commenced 
our ascent again. Accomplishing one-half of the 
remaining distance, we paused again to take breath. 
The next time starting, we soon completed our task 
by stepping on the flat area at the top. We were 
both much out of breath, and in a state of perspira- 
tion. By my watch I found we had been just forty- 
three minutes in ascending, including the stops we 
made by the way. On arriving at the summit, the 
Arabs raised a loud and triumphant shout, patting us 
on the shoulder, and crying " bucksheesh ! buck- 
sheesh ! " 

After seating ourselves a few minutes to take 
breath, I handed my English friend an orange and 
half a roll of good bread, which I had brought with 
me. Serving myself in like manner, we here ate our 
lunch, which indeed was timely and refreshing. 

We now spent about half an hour in surveying the 
vast scenery spread around us in every direction. 
We looked down to the base from whence we had 
started. There were our donkeys, our guide, and a 
few Arabs huddled together. To us they looked 
like a small flock of hens seated on the ground. Our 
eyes then travelled over a vast space of the Delta, 
surveying different branches of the Nile in that 
direction, with countless villages spotting its shores 
and the valley farther back. Following the Nile in 
its turnings, our eyes traced the valley southward as 



SCENERY IN EGYPT. 



79 



far as vision could stretch. There lay before us the 
former site of Memphis, the residence of Joseph, from 
whence he supplied his father and brethren with 
corn, and finally made himself known to them in the 
extraordinary manner recorded in Holy Writ. This 
spot was about eight miles from the place where we 
were standing, and yet, from our vast height, it seem- 
ed nearly at our feet. It is marked by other pyra- 
mids in its immediate vicinity. Beyond, the valley 
stretched to our view as far as sight could trace it. 
To the west lay the unexplorable Lybian desert, with 
its yellow sands glistening in the sunbeams. To the 
east stood Grand Cairo, with its mosques and lofty 
minarets, its environs and neighboring villages. To 
the south and east of it the eternal sands lay spread 
out in all the majesty of boundless desolation. The 
day, though hot, was one of the finest for our pur- 
pose. Never could the sky be clearer, and at no 
time could our eyes have travelled over a greater 
space. In the midst of what a scene were we stand- 
ing ! No man can gaze from the top of the pyramid 
Cheops without emotions never to be forgotten. His 
thoughts roam backward through thousands of years. 
He gazes with astonishment on the mysterious works 
of art spread at his feet. He thinks of the countless 
thousands employed in constructing these vast monu- 
ments of human toil. He contemplates the whole as 
done by men who lived and moved and had a being 
more than four thousand years ago. Where are they 
now ? Gone ! all gone ! their names lost, and even 
the design of their vast labor enveloped in mystery 
and uncertainty ! 

We now began to think seriously of descending. 



80 



MODE OF DESCENT. 



As I turned my eyes down the vast sloping side, our 
descent looked like a fearful task. At first thought, 
I would have given a pretty little sum to be set in 
safety on the ground below. But on commencing a 
descent, how was I disappointed ! With an Arab at 
each arm, and one before you, the descent is one of 
the simplest things in the world. No fatigue attends 
it, and all is perfectly safe to one who is not troubled 
with giddiness of head. We completed our journey 
to the base in about one-third the time employed in 
ascending. 

The Arabs, now supposing they had completed 
their labor, gathered around us, all clamorous for 
bucksheesh. Even those who had rendered us no as- 
sistance were as noisy as the others. We paid the six 
who had attended us, liberally. All of them, however, 
wanted more. Attempting to get to our donkeys, we 
were interrupted by the ravenous beings who assail- 
ed us, crying " bucksheesh ! bucksheesh ! " We flour- 
ished our canes and put on more threatening coun- 
tenances than we desired ; but all to no avail. We, 
however, succeeded in mounting our animals, and 
pushed our passage forward. Such was the pushing 
and shoving that my donkey fell and pitched me over 
his head. I rose up from the sand-bank into which 
I had been plunged, and, flourishing my cane, re- 
mounted the animal and made my way off. They 
could, however, outrun my donkey, though I pushed 
him forward to the utmost. In the midst of a con- 
tinual din, we made our way down past the Sphynx, 
and pushed for a range of catacombs situated a short 
distance south of the pyramids. 

Seeing us dismount to examine the catacombs, the 



CATACOMBS OF EGYPT. 



81 



Arabs became silent. We passed some distance in 
front of these subterranean chambers, situated side 
by side, extending many rods, and cut into the side 
of a hill. At length an Arab boy pointed to a cata- 
comb with peculiar interest ; and, leading the way, 
we followed. There was an opening at the mouth, 
though the entrance was nearly closed up with sand. 
We crawled on our hands and knees through the 
miall aperture left. Here we entered a chamber 
about thirty feet long, fifteen wide, and ten high. 
The whole presented a very ingenious piece of work- 
manship. The entire walls were covered with hiero- 
glyphics, made with red paint, and still in a good 
state of preservation. These most probably were, in 
their time, historical records of some person or per- 
sons deposited there. On one side of the wall was 
a niche, and in it the image of a female ingeniously 
sculptured ; all of the stone that formed the wall. 
This may be the likeness of some great queen whose 
body was once deposited there, and for whom this 
catacomb had been mainly constructed. There was 
a deep hole or shaft in the centre of this tomb, pro- 
bably once leading to a mummy-pit below, where 
bodies embalmed had been stowed in great numbers. 
All, however, has been rifled, and not an entire mum- 
my now remains in this decorated charnel-house. 
Most of them may have been burned for fuel ;* and 
she whose likeness is so ingeniously sculptured in the 
wall may have been exhibited in Europe or America 
long since. Fragments of skulls and other bones are 
now strewed in and around that catacomb. Such 
frightful relics are all that now remain of the mighty 

* Mummies are often broken up and burned for fuel in Egypt. 

4* 



82 



GRAND CAIRO. 



dead once deposited in this splendid chamber. Alas ! 
for the vanity of human greatness, and the futile at- 
tempts of man to preserve that which is only dust, 
and properly belongs to dust again ! The numerous 
catacombs in the immediate vicinity of these pyra- 
mids have all been plundered like this. 

At the south end of this range we found several 
of these catacombs turned into dwellings. Families 
live in them, monopolizing the place of the dead ! 
After examining a few more of these chambers, less 
splendid than the one I have described, we began to 
think of returning to the city. We, however, first 
made a hasty survey of the pyramid Sephrenes, 
which stands but a few rods west of the one we had 
ascended, and which, indeed, is but little inferior in 
size and height. Its sides, however, are covered with 
a smooth cement, which prevents its being ascended. 

At four o'clock, having got rid of our Arab tor- 
mentors, we were on our donkeys, galloping towards 
Cairo, in haste to secure our passage through its 
gates, all of which are closed a little after sunset. 
We were successful in reaching just in time. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Rambles in Cairo— Slave-Market — The Citadel — Bastinado— Immense 
Burial Ground — Tombs of Mamelukes — The Pacha's Family Tomb — 
Tombs of the Caliphs — Egyptian Funeral — Mosque — Madhouse— False 
Tradition — Heliopolis — Description of Cairo — Oppressive Policy of 
Mehemet Ali. 

On the next day I concluded to begin my various 
rambles in Cairo. After strolling among the bazars 
and workstalls for some hours, in company with Mr. 



SLAVE-MARKET. 



83 



C, we procured a guide to conduct us to the slave- 
market. We did not go there with the expectation 
of deriving pleasure from the scene — far from it ; but 
because it was one of the objects of attraction in 
Cairo. I should suppose this mart of human flesh to 
be situated near the centre of the city. It is entered 
by a narrow passage, and forms a courtj around 
which are stalls, or chambers, in which different 
classes of slaves are sitting, and waiting the moment 
they shall be sold. In the open area, or court, were 
seated, on mats, in different groups, the number of 
about one hundred slaves. Two groups of these 
were, from appearance, diseased. Their counte- 
nances were fallen, and their whole appearance 
emaciated and sickly. This kind of article goes off 
cheap, being disposed of like damaged goods, for a 
mere trifle. The other groups in the open area were 
all composed of children, varying in ages of from 
eight to twelve. Something like twenty of these 
would form a group. Some of them were entirely 
naked, and others with but little to cover their naked- 
ness. They were all black, being of the Nubian 
stock. Their skin, however, appeared smooth, their 
faces oval, their features regular, and their coun- 
tenances mild. 

We next commenced an examination of the stalls. 
The first we entered contained about ten young 
females of about eighteen. Three or four of these 
were of the black Nubian color, and the others of a 
dark yellow. These last were Abyssinians. They 
had regular and rather pretty features, and might 
have been considered beautiful, in spite of their cop- 
per complexion. Their forms were delicate and 



84 



SLAVE-MARKET. 



graceful, and there was an expression of thoughtful 
melancholy on their countenances which I should 
think a national characteristic ; though it might have 
been heightened by a sense of their degraded con- 
dition. As we entered, the one I first passed looked 
at me wishfully, and held out her arm to be exa- 
mined. She then ran out her tongue to show that 
she was in good health, and finally made every ex- 
pression she could by signs, to induce me to purchase 
her. As I passed by she looked disappointed. Near 
by sat another, whose countenance was very sad, and 
her eyes gave evidence that she had been weeping. 
Passing to the next stall we there found another 
group of young females, very similar to those we had 
just seen. Here was a Nubian woman of about forty, 
very black, but richly dressed, conversing with some 
of the slaves. Whether she was seeking to purchase 
a slave from among her own race, or was only con- 
versing with them to raise their spirits, I was unable 
to learn. The enslaved were, however, far from 
being cheerful. Passing on, we found all the stalls 
on that side of the court to contain groups of young 
females (mostly Abyssinians), waiting to be sold. 
From signs made by many of them as we entered, 
they were impatient to be bought, that they might 
know the worst of their destiny. 

On a balcony at the east side of the court were a 
number of young men, standing and sitting, ready to 
be sold. Among them were some of the Abyssinian, 
but they were mostly of the Nubian stock. From 
all that we could see, the sales that day were not 
very brisk, as we did not see a single purchaser 
during our stay. I was informed that the prices of 



THE PACHAS PALACE. 



85 



slaves at Cairo range from twenty to one hundred 
dollars. Painfully disgusted with this sickening 
scene, I turned away with no desire to visit it again. 

On the morning of December 22d, finding a donkey- 
boy who spoke some English, I mounted his donkey 
and set out to see the citadel and other scenery in 
that vicinity. For a mile and a half I found it a 
most difficult job to work my passage through nar- 
row streets, literally jammed with loaded camels, 
donkeys, carts and human beings, all in motion. The 
first place we visited was the Pacha's zoological 
establishment. This is a low stone building, oi 
strong and ample dimensions. His variety of wild 
animals, however, is not large, mostly consisting of a 
few fine-looking lions, tigers and leopards. The 
Pacha, I understand, designs, however, to increase 
this establishment to a large and full variety. 

Near the gate of the citadel, I was shown what is - 
called the well of Joseph, but at present better known 
as the well of Saladin. This well is said to be forty 
feet wide at the mouth, and two hundred and twenty 
feet deep. The whole is cut through a solid rock, to 
a spring of brackish water on a level with the Nile. 
The water is raised in buckets on a wheel turned by 
a buffalo. The exceeding large size of this well ena- 
bles a person to see its entire depth to the water. 

The interior of the citadel presents an area of 
several acres of level and handsome ground. On it, 
as I entered, were standing several Arabian chargers, 
splendidly caparisoned. On the balcony of the Pa- 
cha's palace were seated several officers of high rank. 
Sentinels were placed in different directions, walking 
to and fro. From the west parapet of the citadel, the 



86 



BASTINADO. 



prospect is beautiful and fascinating. The western 
suburbs of the city, Old Cairo, the Nile, Gizah, the 
pyramids, the site of Memphis, with a vast extent of 
Egypt's fruitful valley, are spread out in beautiful 
variety. Outside the citadel, and hundreds of feet 
below it, is a large parade-ground. A line of bar- 
racks stretched along its west side, in front of which 
troops were parading and music playing. 

Here the palace of Mehemet Ali occupies a com- 
manding and picturesque position. It is a handsome 
and substantial edifice, and contains some fine apart- 
ments. The Pacha and his son Ibrahim were both 
up the Nile during my stay in Cairo, so that I had 
not the privilege of seeing these lions of the East. 

Passing from one place to another, I, partly by ac- 
cident, entered the room where the governor of Cairo 
holds his court and transacts other business. A 
crowd was gathered in this apartment, and as I en- 
tered I saw the governor standing at the farther end. 
He is a man, I should judge, of about sixty. My at- 
tention, however, was immediately directed to an- 
other transaction about to take place. A miserable 
ragged-looking Arab was just laid on the floor to be 
bastinadoed. His position was face downward. 
Two men were standing over him, one each side, 
with whips like large cowhides in their hands. 
Four men held the culprit down. The blows fell 
thick and heavy on the poor wretch's naked feet, 
while he screamed most piteously. When the full 
number had been given, he attempted to rise, but 
could not stand, and was borne out by his friends, 
groaning as he went. The governor, in the mean- 
time, stood as though hardened to such transactions, 



TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES. 



87 



munching his jaws like a sheep chewing the cud. 
I turned with disgust from the barbarous scene. 

Making our way out of the citadel by another gate, 
we turned a southerly course through the suburbs in 
that direction. Soon passing a steep descent, near a 
broken tomb, we entered the largest burial ground I 
ever saw. I should think the whole forms an area of 
over two miles square. It is entirely in the sands of 
the desert, though at the east side there is a steep 
range of rocky cliff. In the side of those rocks are 
many tombs, and some of them highly decorated with 
columns, arches, and minarets. But on many of them 
the splendid works of art have suffered by the wast- 
ing hand of time, and probably by ravages of invading 
foes. Splendid tombs had once spotted the whole 
field now before me. Now about all of them are 
dilapidated and broken ; some of them presenting 
nothing more than a mere broken arch, emptied of all 
they once contained. 

Passing to the south-west something like a mile, we 
came to the tombs of the Mamelukes. Here another 
guide conducted me through a door, and then a nar- 
row passage into a square area, though in reality a 
building, covered with a dome, and lighted with orna- 
mented glass. Here I was pointed to a number of 
the marble monuments which cover the ashes of dis- 
tinguished Mamelukes. The covering of each was 
in the form of a large marble chest, purely white, and 
of beautiful polish. This group was all that I exam- 
ined, as I learned it presented a fair specimen of the 
whole. The tombs are large and handsome build- 
ings, but are fast going to decay. 

A few rods distant from these, is the family tomb 



88 



TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS. 



of Mehemet Ali. This is a large stone building, sur- 
mounted by several domes. It is considered one of 
the best structures of modern Egypt. I was con- 
ducted into it by one of the guides who are always 
there in waiting. After entering the door and pass- 
ing a short distance, I was bade take off my shoes. 
The interior is divided into two rooms, both of which 
are richly carpetted. In the first room, and at a cen- 
tral place, is deposited the body of his favorite wife. 
The covering is in the form of a large chest, of white 
marble, beautifully polished, and splendidly deco- 
rated with gildings. Several of the Pacha's children 
are deposited in the same and adjoining room, to- 
gether with other near relatives. All the monuments 
are of the same material, constructed very nearly 
alike, and highly ornamented with gildings. The 
stillness of the place, with its peculiar trappings, 
cannot fail to strike the visitor with a kind of solemn 
awe. In the second room of the tombs, a vacant 
place is reserved for the Pacha's body when he dies. 

Leaving the Pacha's tomb, we now returned across 
the same extensive burial ground and entered the city 
by the Victory gate. Near this place are the cele- 
brated tombs of the caliphs. They are large and 
beautiful buildings, displaying the taste of the Sara- 
cens, in whose times they were erected. But they, 
too, are fast going to decay. Just after passing the 
gate of the city, we met a funeral procession. The 
corpse was placed on a kind of litter, and borne by 
three men. It was preceded by six other men, and 
immediately followed by a train of women, with faces 
entirely covered, who were making a most hideous, 
wailing noise. These were followed by a small pro- 



MADHOUSE. 



89 



cession. Afterwards I saw several funeral proces- 
sions in Cairo, all of which were similar to this. 
The wailing women who follow the corpse are al- 
ways hired on the occasion to howl by the hour. 

At a short distance further, we came to one of the 
largest mosques in Cairo, that of Sultan Hassan. I 
dismounted and ascended a long flight of steps in 
front of it, and advanced a few feet within the door. 
The inside presents a beautiful specimen of work- 
manship. Its vast columns, highly decorated and 
arching from each other, in Gothic form, throughout 
the vast edifice, had an imposing appearance. Seve- 
ral Turks were inside, and some of them engaged 
in their devotions. Under the rule of Mehemet Ali, 
mosques in Egypt are open for Christians to enter; 
a permission not granted under any other Moham- 
medan government. 

During my stay of nine days in Cairo, 1 visited 
about every thing in and around the city which is 
considered of interest to travellers. There is a public 
madhouse in the city, which can never be visited but 
with painful emotions. Insanity is considered an 
immediate visitation from Heaven ; and where the 
sufferer is inoffensive, it very often procures for him 
superstitious reverence among Mohammedans. But 
the frantic and dangerous must be restrained ; and 
as insanity is regarded as incurable, those who are 
unhappily in this condition, are treated merely as 
dangerous animals. A more painful and revolting 
spectacle I never saw than the madhouse of Cairo. 
I was shown into a spacious, lofty stone hall, having 
a row of cells, or rather dens on each side, with strong 
iron gratings in front. Each of these dens contained 



90 



HELIOPOLIS. 



a creature, secured by an iron chain, one end of which 
was attached to a collar round his neck, and the other 
fastened into the wall on the outside of the grating. 
When I saw one frantic creature, half naked, his head 
and beard unshaven and matted with dirt, sitting on 
his heels, grinning horribly, and shaking the iron 
bars with both hands, I could scarcely believe I was 
looking at a human being. There is no medical at- 
tendance, because it is considered useless ; and the 
place is in nearly every respect, like a collection of 
wild beasts. It was, indeed, some time before my 
nerves recovered from the shock, and the horrid 
sounds were ringing in my ears for days afterwards. 

The Coptic church at Old Cairo, which is said to 
cover the grotto in which the virgin Mary and Joseph 
dwelt, with the infant Saviour, when they had fled 
from Judea to escape the wrath of Herod, is often 
visited by travellers. The grotto or cave is a small 
excavation, covered with smooth tiles, and of dimen- 
sions but little larger than barely sufficient to per- 
mit a person to sit upright in it. No enlightened 
traveller can believe this tradition entitled to any 
credit. If, indeed, Joseph and Mary fled to Cairo, 
the place of their residence during their stay, is not 
now to be identified. 

The site of the ancient Heliopolis is about two 
hours' ride from Cairo. The place where this city 
stood is now marked by several low mounds, enclos- 
ing a space about three-quarters of a mile in length, 
and half a mile in breadth. This was the On of the 
Egyptians named in Scripture, where the father of 
Joseph's wife was priest. One solitary obelisk, which 
stands on this site, is all that remains of the former 



CAIRO. 



91 



splendour of the " City of the Sun." Near by is a 
very old sycamore tree, under which tradition says 
Joseph, Mary, and the infant Saviour, once rested. I 
broke a small branch from this tree and left the place. 

Cairo is a compact, irregular-built city. The streets 
are not more than fifteen feet wide, and often not 
more that eight. Many of them are quite filthy, 
though the Frank quarters are kept more clean and 
neat. In this respect, however, Cairo is superior to 
Alexandria. The houses are of stone and generally 
high, jutting over the streets above the first story. 
The sun is thus almost wholly excluded. The houses 
have uniformly flat roofs, constructed of stone and 
cement. The city is fortified with a high and sub- 
stantial wall, and is entered from without by mas- 
sive gates. I should judge the wall of Cairo to be 
about twelve miles in extent. The suburbs, however, 
on the outside of the wall, are large, and perhaps in- 
clude one-fourth part of the inhabitants. Besides the 
outer wall, about two miles square of the city is 
guarded by gates, which in peaceable times are never 
closed, but may in case of sudden outbreak, or attack 
by an invading foe. Within this part are the Frank 
quarters, with the largest bazars and manufactories. 
The population of Cairo is supposed to be about 
240,000, made up of Turks, Arabs, Jews, Armeni- 
ans, Copts and Franks. By day, the streets, especi- 
ally in the vicinity of the bazars, are crowded al- 
most to suffocation. Often you are stopped, even on 
foot, for minutes together, to await a clearance for 
you to pass ; and if on a donkey, you must wait for 
your turn, if you can get it. The compactness of 
the city — the narrowness of the streets, together with 



92 



CAIRO MARKET. 



the close manner in which nearly all of it is tenant- 
ed, render it a crowded and bustling place. 

You will often see richly-dressed ladies, with their 
faces closely veiled, except peep-holes for their eyes, 
flaunting along on foot, or riding on a donkey, 
guided by a black eunuch. Such are generally Cir- 
cassian ladies, bought and kept in the harems of rich 
Turks. When the ladies of Egypt go out riding, they 
invariably sit astride of the animal that carries them, 
whether it be a donkey, horse or dromedary. Euro- 
pean fastidiousness has not yet introduced the side- 
way fashion among them. The common classes, 
however, dress miserably. Males and females in 
filthy and ragged clothes, with bare feet, constitute 
seven-tenths of the population. Stockings are worn 
only by the wealthy, and a few pairs of shoes, com- 
paratively, will stock the market of Cairo for a year. 
Finally, the general fashions, here, are much the 
same as in Alexandria. 

Labor in Cairo is performed cheap by the natives. 
You may hire a donkey a whole day in Cairo for 
five piastres, (about twenty-two cents) and have a 
lad to run after you and whip up the beast in the 
bargain. Articles of manufacture are sold cheap. 
The market is well supplied with beef, mutton, poul- 
try, eggs and milk, all of which are sold low. Moham- 
medans, like Jews, raise and use no pork. I do not 
recollect to have seen a single swine in Egypt. 
Breadstuff is abundant and low, as are also rice and 
beans. Oranges, dates, and bananas are abundant, 
and sold surprisingly cheap. A person may at any 
time purchase in the streets, six superior oranges for 
about the amount of one cent. But notwithstand- 



MILITARY 



-93 



ing all this, board at every Frank house is dear. 
The lowest is thirty piastres a day, and at the Eng- 
lish hotel it is invariably fifty piastres a day ; and 
the table, too, not sumptuously furnished. So gen - 
tlemen who had boarded there informed me. 

The Pacha of Egypt keeps a very considerable 
force in and around Cairo. In the heart of the city 
are several military quarters, and without the walls 
are extensive barracks and many troops. You will 
see companies of them marching daily through differ- 
ent parts of the city. A company of Egyptian troops 
makes a very motley appearance, both as to dress and 
tactics. I have never seen them march in platoons, 
but always in files of two abreast. They have the 
music of drum and fife, and airs peculiarly their 
own. But soldiers, in marching, pay but little atten- 
tion to time or step, moving forward in a heteroge- 
neous manner, and with very little regard to order. 

The present government of Egypt is despotic and 
extremely oppressive. Degraded as the Egyptians 
long have been, there is very little hope of their 
rising under the iron rule of their present despot. 
Mehemet Ali has been desirous of raising himself in 
the eyes of the civilized world, as a reformer. Near- 
ly all his reforms, however, are so managed as to 
continually increase his own wealth and extend his 
pow r er. By the present system of government, the 
tillers of the soil cannot own an inch of land. By one 
single decree, the Pacha declared himself the sole 
owner of all the lands of Egypt. Thus the people 
were at once made mere tenants ; nay, worse ; they 
were made slaves. The inhabitants w r ho till the soil 
and rear their herds and flocks, are settled in vil- 



94 



LAWS OF MEHEMET ALI* 



lages. Each village has apportioned to it land to the 
extent of a mile or two miles around it, according to 
its strength and population. Over each village or dis- 
trict, the Pacha appoints a bey, or governor, whose 
business is to let out the land, superintend the tilling 
of the soil, and in every thing to act as the Pacha's 
agent and magistrate of the place. While the Pacha 
grinds the face of the whole people, these agents are 
sure to increase the burthen in their own villages. 
Whenever a tax-levy is made on a village by the for- 
mer, the latter will so manage as to extort nearly 
double. To give some idea of this oppressive system, 
it is only necessary to state a few simple facts. Every 
village is compelled to cultivate two-thirds of its 
lands, with cotton and other articles, solely for the 
Pacha. This is not all ; but a considerable portion 
of the other third is rendered back to him in form of 
taxes and exactions. Each individual is not only held 
responsible for the burthens laid upon himself, but 
also, as the inhabitant of a village, he is bound with 
others to make good the delinquency or arrears of 
every other inhabitant. Cases, too, occur, in which 
after a village has paid up its own taxes, it is com- 
pelled to make good arrears of another village which 
had been stripped of nearly all, and that not enough 
to cancel demands. With such a state of things, 
what could be expected among the people but utter 
degradation in morals and character. 

The Pacha has the name, too, of having done some- 
thing in the cause of education. But what has he 
done ? He has not taken a single step to diffuse gen- 
eral education among his people. The schools estab- 
lished are for the- sole purpose of training up young 



DESPOTIC GOVERNMENT. 



95 



men for his own service. Such are selected at his 
will, or through the agency of his officers. He has 
manufactories, too. But the workmen in these only 
labor from compulsion, and are pressed in by force. 
When the Pacha has established the manufactory of 
any article, it at once becomes a monopoly. Then 
the people must purchase that article of him or go 
without it. Not a family in Egypt dare manufac- 
ture a certain coarse cotton fabric that they wear. 

His soldiers are not recruited volunteers, but are 
forced into his service by direct levies. When the 
Pacha wants more troops, it is only for him to make 
a levy on certain villages, to turn out so many men, 
and they are forthcoming. Often these are dragged 
from their families and their homes by brutal force. 
No service in Egypt is so dreaded as that of the 
army. Many instances are known of men volun- 
tarily maiming themselves for life to escape being 
made soldiers. Children are often mutilated in their 
fingers, their teeth, or an eye, in order to protect 
them from military service. Living under such cir- 
cumstances as I have here enumerated, is it to be 
wondered that Egyptians should be naturally indo- 
lent and set little or no value on their time ? What 
have they to labor for ? The more they accumu- 
late, the more in proportion they are stripped. 

The Pacha, however, has reformed some things 
well. He has prepared the way for foreigners, even 
Christians, to travel with perfect safety in his domin- 
ions. At present there is no more danger in travel- 
ling in Egypt than there is in France or Italy. Fif- 
teen or twenty years ago, a Christian could not walk 
the streets of Cairo without insult, and often open 



96 



PROTESTANT MISSION. 



abuse. Now he is not only protected, but a Pro- 
testant mission has been established at Cairo, where 
service according to the church of England, is per- 
formed every Sabbath. The boys from the mission- 
ary school attend the public service in the chapel, 
and I was informed that several of them were chil- 
dren of Mohammedan parents. During my stay at 
Cairo I attended at that place of worship on the Sab- 
bath. These children serve as the choir, and I was 
pleased with the softness and sweetness of their 
voices. Their parents are induced to send them to 
this school that they may acquire the English lan- 
guage, which is becoming an important accomplish- 
ment. The free opening for Europeans and Amer- 
icans to travel through Egypt, brings large numbers 
of them there every winter. This intercourse will 
gradually diffuse among that people some knowledge 
of civilization and refinement. The Pacha's schools, 
too, may yet lay the foundation for a better state of 
things in process of time. When natives capable 
of being teachers are raised up, the people may 
share the benefits, and science spread. This would 
assuredly produce a revolution in the moral state of 
things in Egypt. His manufactories, also, may pro- 
duce accomplished workmen, who at length may be 
able to set up for themselves. Indeed, much of his 
present management may be gradually paving the 
way for a better order of affairs. Here I take my 
leave of Egypt. 



AMERICANS IN CAIRO. 



97 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Author meets two Americans in Cairo — Contemplated Journey 
through Arabia Petra — Discouragements — Preparations to proceed — 
Commencement of the Journey — General Appearance of the Desert — 
Camels and Dromedaries — A Caravan murdered — Arrival at Suez — 
Description of Suez— Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites — The 
Fountains of Moses — Journey onward in the Desert — Well of Howara, 
or the Marah of Scripture. 

On my arrival at Cairo, I providentially met two 
American gentleman who had recently returned from 
the cataracts of the Nile, and had been making some 
arrangements to go to Palestine by the way of Suez, 
Mount Sinai, Akabah, and the ruins of Petra. A 
written contract had been made a few days before, 
through the American consul at Cairo, with the Be- 
doin sheik, Tueileb, so well known among travel- 
lers, to convey them and any others that might ac- 
company them, as far as Akabah. Another written 
agreement had been made through the same medi- 
um, with sheik Hassein, the head of the Alloeen 
tribe, to convey them and others who might accom- 
pany them, from Akabah to Hebron, by way of the 
ruins of Petra. Late news, however, of the disor- 
dered state of Syria by civil war, and the effects of 
the late revolution in the Holy Land, had thrown 
serious discouragements in the way of their enter- 
prise. Not a Frank traveller had ventured through 
the proposed route for about two years ; and the 
probable lawless and uncurbed state of certain tribes 
bordering on Syria, augured nothing favorable to the 
undertaking. In consequence of the late unfavora- 
ble news received from that direction, the American 
consul spake of such a journey in rather discouraging 
terms ; and, indeed, every gentleman in Cairo with 

5 



98 



ROUTE DETERMINED. 



whom they conversed on the subject, withheld advice 
for them to proceed. My first conversation with 
them gave spur to the enterprise. They expressed a 
wish that I would accompany them. I was indeed 
anxious to pass over that interesting route. It would 
lead through a country which, aside from the Holy 
Land, I considered from its sacred historical and 
prophetic scenery, the most interesting portion of our 
globe. Our route would embrace a very large part 
of the road travelled by the Israelites in their journey 
from Egypt to the promised land. It would lead 
through Idumea, the ancient land of Esau, as well as 
through a portion of the inheritance of Ishmael. I 
should see the place of the Israelites' wonderful pas- 
sage of the Red Sea. I should be permitted to stand 
on the holy mount where Jehovah came down amidst 
thunders and lightnings, and delivered the tables of 
the law to his servant Moses. I should see the ruins 
of Petra ; and, through the doomed land of Idumea, 
read sacred prophetic fulfilments written as with the 
finger of the Almighty. I considered myself pecu- 
liarly fortunate in having such an opportunity offer 
of travelling through that interesting region, which, 
on leaving my native land, I had scarcely dared to 
anticipate. Finally, I encouraged the enterprise, 
and said, " / will go." 

This engagement was made very soon after my ar- 
rival at Cairo. Preparations were immediately put 
in train for accomplishment. A dragoman, or inter- 
preter, and a cook were hired to accompany us. The 
name of the first was Mahomet Russeta, a large, 
dark-colored Egyptian Arab, and a native of Cairo. 
He had iccompanied Mr A. and B. t my two future 



AN ARABIAN TENT. 



99 



companions, on their late journey up the Nile. Our 
cook's name was Comeo. He had accompanied Pro- 
fessor Robinson through Arabia Petra, in 1838. We 
found him a fine, resolute, and trustworthy servant, 
faithful in every thing, and ready to defend us to the 
last moment. We purchased a tent for ourselves, and 
one for our servants. Ours was furnished with two 
strips of carpetting to spread on the ground, on which 
to lay our bedding when we slept. Some soft bread, 
for the first part of our journey, was purchased, and 
also a full supply of hard bread. Beans to make 
soup, rice, butter, eggs, pressed dates, dried apricots, 
oranges, coffee, sugar, a few fowls, and some meat. 
Some cooking and other utensils were laid in. We 
also purchased for each of us a camel-saddle, and a 
huge pair of saddle-bags. The sheiks who were to 
conduct us, had enjoined upon us that we must go 
armed. To this I at first demurred ; but as my com- 
panions were provided with swords and pistols, a 
double-barrel gun, belonging to one of them, was as- 
signed to me, to sling over the pummel of my saddle. 
Indeed, we armed ourselves not so much with the ex- 
pectation of using our weapons in combat, as for the 
purpose of making show of them, as we passed 
among the Bedoin Arabs of the Desert. I now 
think, from experience, that we adopted the best 
policy by taking them. 

Mr. Gliddon kindly procured for us the Pacha's 
firman, which, in other words, was a passport for our 
protection and uninterrupted passage as far as his 
dominions extended. Also, through the same me- 
dium, a letter was obtained for us, from the Greek 
Convent at Cairo to that at Mount Sinai. 



100 



ADIEU TO MR. C. 



I would here state that on the arrival of the Eng- 
lish over-land mail two or three days before my de- 
parture from Cairo, my good, social friend and com- 
panion, Mr. C, set out for Bombay. Our parting 
was warm and affectionate. On my return home, I 
learned that he was then in the United States ; but I 
have to regret that I did not see him. His stop was 
short. He wrote me affectionately from Boston, on 
the eve of his sailing for England. May prosperity 
attend him; and should these pages ever fall into 
his hands, he will here accept another assurance of 
the undiminished regard I bear for him. 

On the 28th of December, at 3, p. m., Shiek Tueilib, 
accompanied by several Bedoins of his tribe, came 
with twelve camels to take us and our baggage on 
our proposed journey. Some two hours were spent 
in getting all into the street and finally adjusting the 
several loads on the different camels. The roaring 
of the camels and the loud talk of the Arab drivers, 
rendered the vicinity noisy and confused enough. 
Having taken leave of the few friends we had made 
acquaintance with in Cairo, at about one hour sun 
all w^as ready for a start. I mounted the camel as- 
signed me, and we took up our line of march, pass- 
ing out at the Shubra gate. It is the general custom 
of a caravan, when about leaving Cairo, to encamp 
the first night only a short distance without the 
walls. We encamped that night about one mile 
south-ea-ot from the city, and not far from the tombs 
of the Caliphs. Here for the first time we took our 
coffee, and supper in our tent. The e vening was clear 
and beautiful, and our tent accommodations proved 
more comfortable than I had anticipated. We all 



DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO. 



101 



enjoyed a very tolerable night's rest. Within a few 
rods of us were three encampments of Bedoin Arabs. 

The morning was the time for adjusting all the 
loading for our journey through the desert. The 
sheik was to receive twelve dollars for each camel we 
might find necessary to convey us, our servants, and 
baggage, the distance we had contracted with him. 
The Arabs endeavored to press as many camels on 
us as possible, by loading all very lightly. We felt 
ourselves obliged to contend some for our own in- 
terests, and to remonstrate a little against this course. 
We succeeded in lessening the number of camels 
one; but for peace' sake thought it best to be rather 
indulgent. Finally, we agreed to take eleven cam- 
els under our pay. At about nine in the morning we 
got under way. Two Arabs, mounted on camels, 
joined us, making the caravan thirteen in all. Tome 
the scene was romantic and grand. In my school- 
boy hours I had often tried to picture to myself a 
caravan in the desert ; but little did I then think 
I should ever see one, much less that I should ever 
travel in a desert of Africa. 

From Cairo to Suez there are three tracks. We 
chose the southern one as the most probable route 
taken by the Israelites on their way from Egyptian 
bondage. I now think this doubtful. In one hour 
from our starting, every human habitation was out of 
sight, and we were as completely surrounded by a 
desert waste as if we had been travelling in it for 
days. Our course was about due east. In two hours 
we began to pass a portion of what is called the 
petrified forest. Petrified pieces of wood were thick- 
ly strewn on every side ; and in several instances we 



102 



FIRST DAY IN THE DESERT. 



saw trunks of large trees, quite perfect in their ap- 
pearance, but in an entire state of petrifaction. Oc- 
casionally we passed gentle eminences, several of 
which bore strong appearance of having been vol- 
canic. Occasionally we crossed slight valleys, all of 
which bore marks of having some time been channels 
for water, but now wholly dry. By the side of our 
way were strewed carcasses of camels, on which 
vultures and numerous crows were feeding. 

This was our first day's experience of riding drom- 
edaries. On account of our loaded camels our pro- 
gress was only that of a walk. The gait of the 
animal keeps the rider in a constant rocking motion 
which at first is rather unpleasant, but less so after 
becoming accustomed to it. Most generally they are 
docile and kind, though some of them are cross and 
turbulent. They always kneel down to receive their 
load, or for their rider to mount. On their rising, the 
rider needs to guard against a fall, as the animal al- 
ways rises on the hind legs first. Like the goat, they 
can subsist on poor, coarse fare, and are thus pecu- 
liarly adapted to the desert. In the winter season a 
camel can travel nine days without water ; but in 
the heat of summer they must drink once in three or 
four days. Their flesh is eaten and their milk used 
by the Arabs. The Arabs also shear the necks of 
their camels once a year, the hair of which is used 
in manufacturing certain fabrics. The only differ- 
ence between a camel and a dromedary is, the latter 
is trained for riding and the former for burdens. All 
are called camels ; but only those used for riding are 
called dromedaries. Some camels have two humps 
instead of one. It is said this is effected by cutting 



CAMELS LOST. 



103 



a piece from the middle of the hump when the ani- 
mal is a colt — a barbarous act. 

Dec. 30. We had intended an early start this morn- 
ing; but on collecting our camels, two were found 
to be missing. They had strayed away. These 
were the two rode by Mr. A. and myself, the best in 
the caravan. Poorer camels were furnished us than 
the lost ones ; and it was thought best that we should 
all immediately proceed on, except the sheik and one 
other man. These would continue the search, and, 
on finding the camels, would follow us. Soon after 
starting, we met a caravan of seventeen camels, on 
their way from Suez to Cairo. To-day we saw 
several places in the desert bearing the same kind 
of volcanic appearance. Melted stones and pieces 
of lava were strewed for rods around them. The 
day was exceedingly pleasant, and we walked a 
good part of the time. In many places the plain was 
covered with small pebbles glistening in the sun. 
Many of these were beautiful in form and color. 
Petrified wood was still abundant. We passed two 
entire trunks of large trees in a most perfect state of 
petrifaction. They were broken in pieces of two 
and three feet in length, had every appearance of 
wood, and yet were as really stone as the pebbles on 
which we were walking. In nearly every valley we 
saw some specimens of vegetable life, such as a low 
kind of prickly shrub, tufts of coarse broom grass, 
and a kind of herb resembling wormwood, but of 
most pleasant and odoriferous smell. The camels 
crop this herb with great avidity. In the course of 
the day one of our Arabs showed us several pieces 
of salt, which, he said, he had just found in a valley. 



101 



AD J A ROOD. 



It was very white, and resembled the Onondaga salt. 
It is said the Arabs often supply themselves with this 
article, gathered in a crude state in various parts of 
the desert. Soon after pitching our tents for the 
night, the sheik arrived with the camels we had left 
him in search of. 

Dec. 31. In the course of this day we met several 
caravans. At 4, p. m., we came to the place where 
two ridges of highlands, which had been visible for 
two days, came near together. Shortly after passing 
this gap we came to a hill of singular appearance, 
standing a little to the right of the main path. On 
ascending it, we found small piles of stones heaped 
near each other, and extending over a very consid- 
erable space. These heaps of stones mark the 
graves of a murdered caravan. This bloody occur- 
rence happened in 1815. A large caravan on its way 
from Suez to Cairo, and loaded with coffee, were 
here waylaid by the Bedoins, nearly all murdered, 
and their camels and coffee taken. 

At about sunset we came to some wells of brack- 
ish and bitter water, situated about two miles north- 
west from Adjarood. All hough the camels drank of 
this water, I found, by tasting it, that it was very un- 
palatable. Here we encamped for the night. 

Jan. 1, 1842. As we were now but a few miles 
from Suez, and were desirous of spending several 
hours in that place, we gave directions for the men 
with the loaded camels to take the nearest course 
around the head of the gulf to the " Fountains of 
Moses," and there pitch our tents. In company with, 
sheik Tueileb, our servants, and some others, we 
made our way direct to Suez. Soon after starting, 



ARAB CARAVANSARY. 



105 



we passed the fortress of Adjarood. This is one of 
the fortresses erected by the pacha of Egypt for the 
protection and supplies of the Hadj caravan of Mo- 
hammedan pilgrims on their way to and from Mecca. 
Its appearance has nothing peculiar. It is supposed 
by some to be " Etham, on the verge of the wilder- 
ness," where the Israelites encamped when they had 
gone three days' journey out of Egypt. Its situation 
and distance from the Nile would seem to agree 
pretty well with the sacred narrative, as Adjarood is 
now the third stage of the pilgrim caravan. There 
is, however, great difficulty in fixing this point, as 
the Gulf of Suez appears to have once extended 
farther north than it now does. 

About three miles from Suez we passed an Arab 
caravansary. At this place was a fountain of brack- 
ish and very bad water. Some of our camels, how- 
ever, drank of it very greedily. We also met, at this 
place, a caravan of one hundred and fifty camels, 
loaded with coffee. A little past noon we entered 
the town of Suez, and repaired to Hill's English 
hotel. The dromedaries we rode were immediately 
despatched round the head of the gulf, to be in readi- 
ness for us on the opposite shore, when we should 
get ready to " cross s the Red Sea." After partaking 
of a lean New Year's dinner at the hotel, we pre- 
pared for a short ramble around the town. 

Suez is built on an angle of land facing the gulf on 
the east and south sides. That portion of the gulf 
which passes east of the town is scarcely a mile 
wide ; but immediately along the south side of Suez, 
the shore turns westerly, extending the width of the 
sea in that direction some two miles. The town is 
5* 



106 



SUEZ. 



walled only on three sides, and that poorly, the east 
side being open to the water, where is a harbor. 
Here were lying a number of vessels of some eighty 
or a hundred tons. They were sharp built, with tall 
spars for lateen sails, high poops, and strangely 
painted. Besides these, there were lying farther 
south one small steamer and two armed vessels be- 
longing to the pacha of Egypt. The town is thinly 
built within the walls, and has many open spaces. 
Near one of these is the house of the Governor, and 
one occupied by the English Consulate. Nearly all 
the houses are poorly built, giving the place a rather 
abject appearance. There is a street of shops or 
bazars, only indifferently supplied with provisions and 
stuffs brought mostly from Cairo. The population is 
about fourteen hundred, nearly all Mohammedans. 

About one hundred rods north of the town is a 
very considerable mound of rubbish, containing some 
remnants of stone wall and fragments of pottery. 
The Arabs call it Tell Kolzum. This is most pro- 
bably the site of the former city of Kolzum, men- 
tioned by Arabian writers as the port where fleets 
were built on the Red Sea. The early city of Arsinoe, 
or Cleopatris, is supposed to have stood somewhere 
in the vicinity, and may perhaps have occupied the 
same spot.* 

The transportation of products and merchandise 
from the East, by the Red Sea to the Nile, has long 
caused the existence of a city near where Suez now 
stands. The present town, however, is of modern 
origin. Vast numbers of pilgrims here embark for 
Mecca yearly And the present arrangement for 

* Robinson. 



THE RED SEA. 107 

passage from England through Egypt, thence by way 
of the Red Sea to Bombay, adds still more to its re- 
sources. The aspect in and around Suez, however, is 
dreary. There is not a fountain of fresh water in the 
place. All the water for the necessary use of the in- 
habitants is brought from a fountain three hours dis- 
tant, and that is so brackish that it is hardly drinkable. 

The miraculous passage of the Israelites through 
the Red Sea, must have taken place but a few miles 
at farthest south of Suez. Professor Robinson, in his 
" Biblical Researches," fixes the land of Goshen from 
whence the Israelites fled, on the Pelusiac arm of the 
Nile, directly east of the Delta, constituting the part 
of Egypt nearest to Palestine. Having carefully ex- 
amined his reasons for fixing that land where he 
does, I consider his arguments entitled to, at least, a 
good degree of credit. The land of Goshen given to 
the Israelites was, according to sacred history, the 
best part of Egypt. Such, to this day, is that portion 
of Egypt which Dr. R. thinks once constituted the 
real Goshen of the Israelites. 

All that kind of reasoning which has for its object 
the means of dispensing with a direct miracle in 
causing the waters of the Red Sea to divide for Israel 
to pass over, I regard as savoring too much of direct 
scepticism. Nor is it without regret that I see so 
much of this kind of argument in Dr. Robinson's 
valuable "Researches." It has been contended that 
"a strong east wind" caused the entire water at the 
north end of the gulf to recede southerly for miles, 
thus offering a way for the Israelites to pass over. 
1 . An east wind would not naturally drive the water 
in the gull' south, as the gulf itself leads off in nearly 



108 



LN FIDELITY REBUKED. 



a south direction. 2. If this were possible, it would 
not agree with the sacred account of the event. " And 
the Lord said unto Moses, lift thou up thy rod, and 
stretch out thy hand over the sea, and divide it ; and 
the children of Israel shall go on dry ground through 
the midst of the sea." " And the children of Israel 
went into the midst of the sea, upon the dry ground ; 
and the waters were a wall unto them on their right 
hand and on their left." In whatever way, therefore, 
"the Lord caused the sea to go back" by " a strong 
east wind," it was in no other way than to leave the 
waters a wall on either hand. Nothing but a direct 
miracle could have effected this. 

The most prevalent tradition fixes the miraculous 
passage of the Red Sea at Ras Ataka, a promontory 
extending into the gulf about five miles south of 
Suez. Without pretending to a decided opinion on 
a question which cannot be determined with cer- 
tainty, my impression is that the Israelites did not 
cross much, if any, higher up than this point. 

The children of Israel demanded of Pharaoh that 
they might go three days' journey into the wilder- 
ness to offer sacrifices. It was only when they began 
to move from their encampment at Etham, and when 
" it was told the king of Egypt that the people fled," 
that he determined to pursue them. He " overtook 
them encamping by the sea beside Pi-hahiroth, before 
Baal-zephon." This was a singularly difficult and 
perilous position which they had been expressly 
commanded to occupy, for the purpose of inducing 
Pharoah to follow them ; " for Pharoah will say of 
the children of Israel, They are entangled in the 
land, the wilderness hath shut them in." 



SCRIPTURE PROOFS. 



109 



The word Pi-hahiroth signifies "the entrance of 
the valley;" and there appears to be some difference 
of opinion whether it was a proper name or only a 
descriptive epithet. The names Migdol and Baal- 
zephon are no longer known. The range of moun- 
tains along the western shore of the gulf is called 
Gibbel Ataka ; and the promontory to which I have 
already alluded, Ras Ataka — evidently names com- 
memorative of the miraculous deliverance of the 
Israelites from their Egyptian pursuers. The Arabic 
word Ataka signifies " deliverance." It is now very 
probable that the names mentioned in Scripture, 
were suppressed by others rising out of this extra- 
ordinary event ; and have been, in process of time, 
altogether forgotten. 

Had the children of Israel marched in any other 
direction than along the narrow stretch of shore be- 
tween the, present Gibbel Ataka and the sea, I can- 
not see how it could, with any propriety, have been 
said they were " entangled in the land," or that the 
wilderness had shut them in. But here the entangle- 
ment was complete. On one hand were the moun- 
tains, on the other the sea ; and when the Egyptian 
host pursued them into this fastness — for the promon- 
tory prevented their advancing to the south — they had 
no alternative but to defend themselves in their dis- 
advantageous position, or to march through the sea. 
Indeed, the Israelites, having no idea of this latter 
movement, gave themselves up for lost. " And they 
said unto Moses, because there were no graves in 
Egypt, hast thou taken us away to die in the wilder- 
ness 1 " 

Now as they were pursued by the Egyptians, it is 



110 FOUNTAINS OF MOSES. 

evident that the van of the host of Israel, and conse- 
quently those who first entered the sea, were those 
farthest to the south. When we consider the im- 
mense number of the Israelites, with their women, 
and children, and cattle, we must believe that their en- 
campment extended several miles along the coast.* 

During our stay at Suez, we walked a distance on 
the shore south of the town, inspecting with our eyes 
every point of land along the gulf, as far as our sight 
could stretch. The next morning we visited the 
shore on the opposite side, at a point south-west 
from the Fountains of Moses. From all the obser- 
vations I was enabled to make, I came to my pre- 
sent conclusion as to the place where was wrought 
the stupendous miracle of the passage of Israel 
through the Red Sea. At Ras Ataka, the Red Sea 
is probably about five miles wide. 

Having spent about four hours in Suez, which af- 
fords sufficient time to see all of peculiar interest in 
and around that miserable town, we began to think 
of crossing to the opposite shore. A small sail-ves- 
sel was procured, into which we were stowed, and 
soon a light breeze wafted us across this arm of the 
Red Sea. Here we imperceptibly glided out of 
Africa into Asia. We found our dromedaries in 
waiting where we landed. At a little past seven in 
the evening, we reached the Fountains of Moses, 
where we found our tents pitched and all things in 
readiness for us. 

The Fountains of Moses are six or seven springs 
of brackish water, all within a short space of each 
other. They are as near as I can judge, about six 

* Kinnear. 



WADDY SADER. 



Hi 



miles south-east from Suez, and two east of the gulf. 
A few low, shaggy, and unpruned palm-trees grow 
around the place, affording the only picturesque fea- 
ture in the landscape. At these fountains it is sup- 
posed the Israelites first encamped, after having 
come up out of the Red Sea. 

Jan. 2. In consequence of having paid a visit to the 
shore of the Red Sea, this morning, we were late in 
getting under way. On leaving the Fountains ot 
Moses, our course was nearly south, over a dreary 
wilderness of sand, broken here and there into dry, 
gravelly hollows. We passed " many little hillocks ot 
mortality," designated as small heaps of loose stones, 
hardly covering the remains of pilgrims who have 
found a lonely grave in the desert. Encamped about 
5, p.m., in Waddy Sader, still in sight of the sea. 

With our Bedoin guides, we had now become on 
pleasant and familiar terms. They were good-na- 
tured, kind, and obliging fellows, always ready to do 
every thing we wished, as far as in their power. 

Sheik Tueileb took charge of the arrangements 
for encamping at night and setting off in the morn- 
ing ; but in other respects, all seemed to be on a foot- 
ing. The sheik always discovered a kind, benevo- 
lent, and obliging turn, taking every pains to render 
us as comfortable as circumstances would permit. 
At night the camels were placed in a circle round 
our tents, where they lay down. Our guides used no 
tents ; but, wrapping themselves up in their blankets, 
lay down with their camels and slept in the open 
air. The dress and general appearance of the 
Bedoin Arabs I shall describe in another place. 

Jan. 3. Our course during to-day bore more east- 



112 



WATERS OF MARAH. 



erly than that of yesterday. Soon after starting we 
lost sight of the sea, which is always a refreshing 
object. For about ten miles our path lay over a level 
waste, with scarcely an undulation. We were, how- 
ever, approaching a mountainous region. For several 
hours near the middle of the day, the heat was op- 
pressive. In the afternoon, as we were passin g among 
hills, we saw many ledges of what had the appear- 
ance of being wmite marble. About one hour sun, we 
arrived at the Well of Howara, supposed to be the 
" Marah " of Scripture ; where we encamped. " And 
when they came to Marah, they could not drink the 
waters of Marah, for they were bitter ; therefore the 
name of it was called Marah." This well rises in a 
low sand-hill, and the ground about it is encrusted 
with salt. The water is exceedingly bitter and un- 
drinkable. I had the curiosity to taste it, and found 
it extremely bitter and nauseating. The Israelites 
reached this spring after three days' march, without 
water, in the desert of Shur. It is situated a little 
less than fifty miles from the Fountains of Moses, 
and answers well to the supposition that it is the 
true Marah. The basin is six or eight feet in diame- 
ter, and the water about two feet deep. Near it 
were two stunted palm-trees and some small bushes. 



ELIM. 



113 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Elim of Scripture — Rugged and wild Scenery — Pilgrim Inscriptions 
—Ruins of Surabit el Khadim — A rude Fortification — A Battle — Visit 
to an Arab Encampment — An Arab Dance by Star-light — A Desolate 
Region — Arrival at Mount Sinai — Reception at the Greek Convent. 

January 4. Set out this morning in good season. 
About one hour after, met a small caravan, in which 
were four Bedoin women walking. Their faces 
were concealed with veils, after the Eastern fashion, 
while their entire appearance was very filthy. At 
about 11 o'clock, we came to a valley called by the 
Arabs Waddy Ghurtundel. This valley is deeper and 
better supplied with bushes and shrubs than any we 
had yet passed. A few small palm trees are also 
scattered in different parts of it. Our Arabs inform- 
ed us that there were fountains of water at one side 
of this valley, but not so good as some we should find 
further on. As we had a small supply of water yet 
on hand, we made no search for any here. The val- 
ley bore marks that water had run through it but a 
few months before. This valley is now commonly 
regarded as the Elim of Scripture, to which the Is- 
raelites came after leaving Marah, and found twelve 
wells of water. Professor Robinson thinks there is 
nothing improbable in this supposition. 

Our course to-day lay between ridges of mountains 
of entire naked rock. In many places were ledges 
of a white chalky color. The whole scene around 
us bore a peculiarly wild and savage aspect. Nature 
is often said to smile, but here it may be said empha- 
tically to grin. About the middle of the afternoon, 
we came to Waddy Esaide, in which was a small 



1J4 



WADDY NASB. 



spring of brackish water, contiguous to which were 
a few stunted palm trees. Our Arabs filled some of 
their goat-skins at this fountain. We had sent off in 
another direction with the prospect of obtaining good 
water, but that too when it arrived, was very brack- 
ish. An individual can never so sensibly realize the 
blessing of good water as when travelling in the 
Desert. Near sunset we encamped in Waddy El 
Homard. 

Jan. 4. Soon after starting this morning, we left 
the Waddy or valley in which we had encamped, and 
ascended a very considerable ridge of land. From 
this we passed over a region covered with small peb- 
bles of beautiful and variegated colors. I picked up 
a few of them. We saw a number of hillocks to-day 
which bore strong evidence of having once been vol 
canic. At 3 o'clock, p. m., we came to Waddy Nasb, 
where it was concluded to encamp and send a dis- 
tance of two miles for good water. Wishing, also, 
to visit some mysterious ruins situated but a few 
miles from this place, the lateness of the hour re- 
quired that we should take another day for it. 

The scenery in and around the place where we 
now encamped was wild, romantic and hideous. A 
few rods to the west was a pyramidal mountain of 
solid rock, small at the base, but rising to the height 
of some two thousand feet. Its craggy form and 
towering aspect gave it a peculiar and antique ap- 
pearance. I made an attempt to ascend it, but after 
succeeding in climbing about half way up its side, 
found myself completely foiled by projecting crags. 
I then descended and passed round the base. Large 
masses of rocks had fallen from its summit and sides, 



RUINS OF SURA BIT, EL KHADIM. 



115 



and were here piled in promiscuous confusion. On 
large numbers of these I found many inscriptions, 
mostly in Arabic, some in Hebrew, and a few in Eng- 
lish letter. This had been the encamping place of 
. many a Mohammedan and Jewish pilgrim, together 
with a few English and French travellers, probably 
on their way to Mount Sinai. Many of the inscrip- 
tions looked exceedingly ancient. My name was 
there left among others. The mountains around this 
place are lofty and bare ; in the valley are very few 
shrubs of any kind, and but little of vegetable life. 
About sunset our men who had been sent off, re- 
turned with two skins of excellent water, which at 
that time was a valuable acquisition. 

Jan. 5. Early in the morning we sent our loaded 
camels with our servants, on by the direct route, and 
giving them directions to proceed as far as Waddy 
Barrak and there encamp, we took Sheik Tueileb 
and three other Arabs with us to visit the mysterious 
ruins of Surabit El Khadim. In a few minutes 
after starting, we turned into a valley leading off 
nearly south, and in about one hour reached the foot 
of Gibbel Gerabee, the mountain on which are situ- 
ated these singular remains of antiquity. Professor 
Robinson estimates this mountain at from six or 
seven hundred feet in height. From the time em- 
ployed in reaching the summit where the ruins are 
found, I must consider the height much greater. 

Ascending a steep bank of sand, and passing round 
the head of a valley of yawning dimensions, we be- 
gan to ascend the mountain. The path was rugged 
and precipitous. We had to use our hands as well 
as feet in climbing frcm rock to rock, till the scene 



110 RUINS OF SURABIT EL KHADIM 

below us presented a vast chasm, strewed with moun- 
tain wrack, and fearful to look into. Passing along 
a narrow ledge on the margin of the abyss, and again 
climbing with hands and feet, after passing several 
dizzy positions, we succeeded in reaching a table sur- 
face. From this place our path was winding up a 
gradual ascent, though often steep, till we finally 
reached the summit of the mountain. From this lofty 
position the view over the desert is gloomy and deso- 
late. Nothing is to be seen but a sea of barren 
rocky mountains, with wild fantastic peaks surging 
up from the sandy valleys that wind among them. 
" A land of desert and of pits, a land of drought and 
of the shadow of death, a land where no man passed 
through and where no man dwelt." 

The ruins appear, from a little distance, a group of 
upright stones amidst a confused mass of fallen mason 
work, and bear a considerable resemblance to an old 
church-yard. The upright tablets are from six to 
eight feet in height, about two feet broad, and are 
arched at the top. They are covered on both sides 
with hieroglyphics ; but on the side exposed to the 
northern blasts, the inscriptions were nearly obliter- 
ated. Many of these tablets are thrown down, and 
mingled with fragments of square pillars and the 
ruins of some kind of building. Among them we 
found two capitals bearing the head of Isis, sculp- 
tured on four sides, with ox ears, and the hair falling 
in a long curl on each side of the face. Other up- 
right stories of similar dimensions are standing in 
various directions without the enclosure. 

On carefully examining the whole ruins, we suc- 
ceeded in tracing the plan and dimensions of a build- 



ANCIENT TEMPLE. 



117 



ing which must have been a temple. At the eastern 
end is a subterraneous chamber, resembling an Egyp- 
tian mummy-pit. This is excavated in the solid rock 
and is square. The roof is supported in the middle 
by a square column left from the rock. This column, 
and also the sides of the room, are covered with 
hieroglyphics, and in each of the sides is a small 
niche. The whole of these ruins bear undoubted evi- 
dence of being originally the work of Egyptian artists. 

These remains of antiquity were discovered by 
Niebuhr, in 1761. The next Frank visitor was the 
French traveller Boutin, in 1811. Subsequently 
Burkhardt, Heniker, Laborde, and various others, 
have visited them. Most of these travellers suppose 
them to be the remains of a cemetery, in which the 
Egyptian workmen, employed in the copper-mines 
which were worked at a very early period in these 
mountains, were buried.* This, however, is but a 
mere conjecture. It is not very probable that so 
much labor would have been bestowed in covering 
the tombs of common workmen, perhaps slaves, with 
such elaborate hieroglyphic inscriptions. A thought 
more reasonable struck my mind while standing in 
the midst of those ruins. In the days of ancient 
Egyptian idolatry this was considered a sacred 
mountain ; perhaps regarded as the abode of one of 
their deities. On this account a heathen temple was 
here erected, priests constantly kept in it, and sacri- 
fices here offered. To the Egyptians this mountain 
became a place of pilgrimage, as Sinai now is to 
Christians or Mecca to Mohammedans. If this, in- 
deed, be the right conclusion, these ruins may be 

* Kinnear. 



118 



BROKEN TOMBS. 



nearly or quite as old as the pyramids of Egypt. 
But be this conclusion right or wrong, this lone spot 
is deeply interesting. Here the visitor is led back 
into the gray mists of high antiquity, and here he is 
filled with wonder and awe as he surveys, far from 
the abodes of human life, the labors of men un- 
known, for an object alike mysterious. 

About three-fourths of a mile from these ruins, our 
guides led us to three broken tombs, situated near 
each other. These were excavated in the solid rock, 
forming rooms about twelve feet long, eight wide, 
and seven high. The entrance into these tombs 
must have been from above. The roofs are now off, 
and the tombs entirely empty. One of them had on 
one of its end walls many hieroglyphics, and a large 
rock near by has on it many more similar characters. 
I have not seen any account of these tombs given by 
a single visitor previous to ourselves. 

We passed down the mountain on another side ; 
difficult and dangerous, but not as much so as the 
way by which we had ascended. On our arrival at 
the base we found our dromedaries, with the two 
men we had left them in charge of, in waiting. 
Mounting once more, we set off in haste to overtake 
our caravan. 

Passing up this valley in a south-west direction for 
about two miles, we came to its termination. Here 
we had a steep mountain of considerable height to 
cross. We dismounted and permitted our camels to 
clamber up before us. The descent from this moun- 
tain on the other side was gradual, forming a long 
sand plain for over a mile before us. Beyond this 
we entered a valley of over four miles in length. 



RUDE FORTIFICATION. 



119 



Ascending an eminence beyond this, we came to a 
large burial ground in this desert place. Some of 
the grave's were rudely walled, and others had a flat 
stone set at the head. Here we descended into 
another valley, which brought us on the direct route 
by which our caravan had passed. The valley into 
which we now descended soon became narrow, with 
tall, dark mountains towering on either side. Our 
way was strewed with large rocks and small sharp 
stones, while but very little of vegetable life was to 
be seen anywhere. 

At about 5 o'clock, p. m., we came to a rude stone 
wall, or breastwork, which crosses the valley. This 
marks the scene of one of the most important events 
in the modern history of the Tawarah tribes. The 
story given by the Arabs is about as follows : — For- 
merly the carrying of goods between Cairo and Suez 
belonged to the Tawarah tribes ; or in other words, 
was a monopoly of theirs. But several years ago 
the Pacha began to employ some from other tribes 
to do this work, to the no small dissatisfaction of the 
Tawarah confederacy.* To recompense themselves 
for this infraction of their rights, as they considered 
it, several tribes combined together and plundered a 
large caravan of several hundred of camels laden 
with coffee and other merchandize, between Suez 
and Cairo. The men of this caravan were nearly 
all killed, and the camels and loading taken by the 
Bedoins to their encampments among these moun- 
tains. The cutting off of this caravan is mentioned 
in the foregoing chapter. 

* This, according to Professor Robinson, is a confederacy of five Bedoin 
tribes on the peninsula of Sinai. 



120 



ANCIENT BATTLE. 



The Pacha sent to demand back the plunder : but 
the Bedoins. in the meantime, had revelled in their 
spoils, and eaten up and disposed of the whole. 
Their laconic answer was, " W e were hungry and 
have eaten." The Pacha immediately despatched a 
force of two or three thousand men against them. 
The Arabs gathered at this place and built a wall, 
expecting the troops to come along the valley. But 
the latter divided and climbed along the mountains 
in order to get round the Arabs. They, of course, 
were compelled to meet the Pacha's forces on the 
heights, and these rugged ridges are pointed to as the 
place where the battle was fought. Almost as a mat- 
ter of course, the Bedoins were completely routed, 
with little slaughter, and the troops marched as far 
as Mount Sinai. The chief sheik came out and sur- 
rendered himself, and peace was granted on condition 
of their paying the. expenses of the war. Since that 
time the Tawarahs have remained in quiet subjec- 
tion to the Pacha.* We arrived at our encampment 
at about half-past six, and found our caravan had 
preceded us only a few minutes. Hungry and tired 
as we were, we had to wait till a late hour for our 
dinner. 

Jan. 6. This morning Tueileb gave us an invita- 
tion to accompany him to his encampment, which lay 
but a short distance off our direct route, and which 
we could reach by a little past noon. We felt a cu- 
riosity to spend one night in a Bedoin encampment 
and as a matter of course, accepted the invitation. 
He put on the new scarlet dress we had presented 
to him at Cairo, his new red morocco boots, and 
* Robinson. 



BEDOIN ENCAMPMENT 



121 



fixed up his turban with peculiar care. These new 
fineries gave him a dashy and splendid appearance. 
He soon gave us to understand that we were to hurry 
on with him and leave our loaded camels to follow 
at leisure. Our dromedaries trotted on with life, as 
though they were familiarly acquainted with the 
way and place we were approaching. About 10 
o'clock, we passed a burial-ground, very similar in 
appearance to the one we saw yesterday. At about 
twelve, we passed a woman and two small boys tend- 
ing a flock of goats. This was the first thing of the 
kind we had seen since we left Cairo. After passing 
for some miles through a valley with high broken 
mountains on either side, we at length turned to the 
left into Waddy Sheik. We had passed up this 
valley but a few rods, when we saw a long range of 
black tents directly in front of us. The sheik point- 
ed to these as the tents of his people, and motioned 
for us to follow him in a line. We at once struck 
into a single file with the sheik at the head. As we 
advanced, we heard small bells ringing in every part 
of the encampment, intermingled with shouts of wel- 
come. At this time we saw many women as well 
as men standing in front of the tents. We were 
conducted in front of the first line of tents, the "whole 
length of the encampment, that all might have a 
view of us. Our dromedaries were then made to 
kneel and we dismounted. At this time every wo- 
man was missing. They had retired to the female 
apartments of the tents ; a principle of etiquette not 
to be dispensed with among Bedoins on the arrival 
of male guests. 

This encampment consisted of twenty-six tents, 
6 



122 



BEDOIN DINNER. 



pitched in three lines, directly in rear of each other. 
In the centre of the front line was the sheik's tent, 
which appeared to be the largest and most commo- 
dious of the number. Our saddle-bags and saddles 
were taken off and carried into his tent. In front of 
these a piece of carpeting was spread on which we 
were bidden to sit down. Directly a quantity of 
pressed dates were set before us of which we ate 
freely. I had never seen better. Soon after cofFee 
was served us. Many gathered in front of the tent 
and appeared anxious by every sign, to make us be- 
lieve we were welcome ; often uttering the words 
" salaam kleikum, " peace be with you. 

In a short time our caravan arrived, when we or- 
dered our tent to be pitched about forty rods in front 
of the encampment. Soon after we had repaired to 
our tents, Tueileb brought to us a large supply of 
pressed dates of superior quality, nicely put up in 
some kind of skin. We were requested to accept of 
these as a present. He also requested us not to have 
any of our provisions cooked, but to dine with him. 
We excused this as modestly as possible, and insisted 
on his dining with us. He still insisted, as he was 
to have a sheep killed, that we must eat with him. 
But as we found his sheep could not be had till sun- 
set, we ordered Mohamet to have our dinner pre- 
pared and invite the sheik. When all was ready 
the sheik came and ate with a hearty relish. 

The plain on which we were encamped was of 
considerable extent, with valleys leading off in three 
directions. It, however, had a barren and sterile 
appearance. Some tufts of coarse grass, with here 
and there a low thorn shrub, marked a water-course 



A DANCE. 



123 



now dry, passing a little to the south of us. These 
constituted about all of vegetable life to be seen in 
the place. We again walked up to the Arab 
encampment. All was to us romantic and strange. 
What a singular people were we among ! The dark 
swarthy sons and daughters of Ishmael — the wan- 
dering denizens of the desert, which was possessed 
by their fathers for long successive ages rolled by. 
Here were a portion of that people of whom it was 
said, " His hand shall be against every man's hand, 
and every man's hand against his." Here they dwell 
in the midst of wildness, barrenness, and desolation. 
Despising the luxuries and refinements of life, they 
cling with unbroken pertinacity to their dark moun- 
tains and sterile vales. Their wants are few, and 
these they supply by simple means. Here, too, we 
saw before us a sample of the pastoral life of ancient 
patriarchs. They were dwellers in tents, and like 
these wanderers of the desert, moved from place to 
place. Night approached and we retired to our tent. 

Early in the evening we heard a strange, unhar- 
monious singing in the vicinity of the Arab encamp- 
ment. Soon Tueileb came to our camp and told us 
we must go and witness a dance. We followed him 
to a level piece of ground, directly in rear of his 
family tent, where about twenty women, one old 
man of about eighty, and a large number of men 
were assembled. They were singing in a loud, harsh 
tone, and seemingly repeating the same words over 
and over to the tune. A piece of carpeting was 
spread a short distance in front of the singers, on 
w r hich we were bidden to sit down. The old sheik 
seated himself at our right. The singers now ar- 



124 



BEDOIN CUSTOMS. 



ranged themselves into two lines, forming an angle. 
They then commenced singing with great vehe- 
mence, the men clapping their hands and bowing by 
way of keeping time. The singing was also occa- 
sionally interlarded by a wild, singular scream or 
shriek, uttered by some of the women. Soon a wo- 
man stepped a short distance in front of the line that 
faced the south, and another took a position a few 
feet in front of the line that faced the east. Both 
these commenced moving forward and backward, 
by short, slow steps, throwing up their arms at each 
step. Two would thus perform a dance for about 
five minutes, and then be succeeded by two others. 
These changes were repeated five or six times 
during our stay. These dancers were dressed in a 
coarse dark-coloured fabric, and had thrown over 
their heads a piece of black cloth in the form of a 
shawl, which extended down below the hands. In 
throwing up their arms while dancing, this part of 
their dress lying over the arms gave to the motion a 
peculiar appearance ; and having their faces con- 
cealed behind black veils, they looked to me like 
spectres moving in the star-light. The Bedoin wo- 
men are small of stature, and spare built, but carry 
their whole persons very erect. There was, however, 
but very little music in the singing, or dexterity or 
grace in the dancing. We remained till about nine, 
took our leave, and retired to our tent. The singing 
continued for about half an hour after we came away. 
The next morning the sheik very modestly informed 
us that the dancers expected a little bucksheesh 
from us. This could not be denied, and of course 
we handed over. 



M0UN1 SINAI. 



125 



Jan. 7. This morning the sheik sent to our tent 
some of his fresh mutton, cooked in their way. We 
found so much of the wool mixed in the dish, as well 
as other marks not very palatable, that we ate but 
sparingly of his present. He informed us that he 
should now remain at his encampment and send 
some men with us to Mount Sinai, and that in five 
days from that morning he would meet us there with 
his camels, prepared to convey us to Akabah. To 
this we had no objection, as the distance to Mount 
Sinai was only about six hours' ride. 

The morning was delightful, and we set off cheer- 
fully, with the hope of arriving that day at a place 
of rest. Our route extended for some miles along a N 
broad smooth valley, with tall dark mountains, as 
usual, on both sides. Ascending a small eminence, 
at about 10 o'clock, we had a distant view of Sinai. 
From this eminence we made a long descent over a 
broad sandy space, wholly bare of vegetation. At 
the termination of this, we entered upon a broken, 
rocky path, and commenced an ascent among huge 
rocks which had been hurled about in the most pro- 
miscuous confusion. The mountains on each side of 
us gathered a wild, dark, and most desolate appear- 
ance. Their broad, craggy sides rose in every fan- 
tastic form, while often their towering peaks seemed 
reared to battle the clouds of heaven. We dis- 
mounted and walked through this solitary and dreary 
pass. The sun shone clear, and the heat was very 
oppressive. Our camels wound along their difficult 
way, in the midst of rocks piled on rocks, for about 
one hour and a half. In several places we saw on 
the mountain sides copper ore, and gathered a few 



126 



CONVENT. 



specimens. In many places it appeared to be very- 
abundant, but how valuable I was not enabled to 
judge. At length, making a turn in this mountain 
pass, we saw the valley before us extended into a 
plain of about half a mile wide, while directly in 
front was Sinai, with its dark craggy sides and awful 
towering peaks. The view we had of it from this 
point seemed to present its base as but a few rods 
before us, while, in reality, it was more than two 
miles distant. The plain on which we now entered 
ascended gradually for about one mile, and then 
descended about the same distance to near the foot 
of the mount. When we commenced the descent, 
the convent became visible — lonely but grand in the 
midst of the solitude. It is situated at the foot of 
Mount Sinai, and on the east side. Passing on this 
side of the mountain, we came to an Arab burial 
ground. Beyond this our path still extended south 
through a narrow defile with scattered rocks, till we 
came in front of the convent. 

The monks had seen us approaching, and on our 
arrival several of them showed themselves at a door 
in front of their building, but elevated at the height 
of over thirty feet from the ground. On our dismount- 
ing, a rope was lowered to receive our letter from 
the convent at Cairo. This being read, the rope 
was again lowered for one of us to be drawn up. 
The process of drawing the rope was by a windlass, 
turned on the inside, and the operation of being hoist- 
ed up in this way is rather a ludicrous and dizzy per- 
formance. At the lower end of the rope was a loop, 
in which I seated myself, and then clenched the rope 
firmly above my head. Soon I was dangling in the 



GREEK CONVENT. 



127 



air, and rising with a gradual motion. In the pro- 
cess I found ample use for my feet to keep myself 
from coming in collision with the stone wall of the 
building. At length, on arrrving at a height opposite 
the door, a monk took hold of the rope and drew me 
in like a bale of goods. The superior, who was a 
venerable-looking old man of about seventy, with a 
long white beard, received us very affectionately, 
and the other monks saluted us with smiling coun- 
tenances. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Convent at Mount Sinai — Greek Church — Chapel of the Burning Bush — 
The Library — Charnel House of Human Skulls and Bones — The Gar- 
den—Rules of the Convent — Accommodations for Strangers — Arabs 
around the Convent — Sinai and Horeb — 'Ascent of Mount Sinai — Legend 
of a Fountain— Chapel of the Virgin — Fountain of Elijah— Chapels of 
Elijah and Elisha — Impressions on arriving at the Summit of Sinai — 
Hermits— Plain where the Israelites Encamped— The Rock of Moses — 
Chapel of the " Forty Martyrs " — Ascent of Mount St. Catharine — A 
Legend — Vast and astonishing Scenery. 

The Greek convent at Mount Sinai is an irregular 
quadrangle, situated on the slope of one side of the 
valley. Part of the wall rests on the base of the 
mountain, while the rocks on the opposite side of the 
ravine are not more than twenty paces from the front 
of the convent. There are only two entrances ; one 
the door by which we had been admitted, and the 
other a subterraneous passage communicating with 
the garden. This passage is secured by a strong iron 
studded door at each end. The walls are high and 
well built, of square blocks of granite, and strength- 
ened with small towers in various parts. In a few 
of these are small cannon, The interior is divided 



128 



TRADITION. 



into several courts, around each of which there is a 
wooden balcony, from which the upper rooms are 
entered. The lower rooms are mostly, as I believe, 
used for store-houses, workshops, and cells for the 
monks. The last of these are small and miserably 
furnished ; generally containing only a mat, a rug, a 
chair, but no table. 

Tradition says that this convent was established 
by the Emperor Justinian, a. d. 527, on the place 
where a church had been built by St. Helena in the 
fourth century. Dr. Robinson, however, asserts, that 
there is not the slightest historical hint that Helena 
was ever in the region of Mount Sinai, or caused 
any church to be erected there. The great church 
of the convent was built by order of Justinian, about 
the middle of the sixth century. It is supported by 
a double row of granite pillars, with rude Corinthian 
capitals. These pillars, as well as the interior*walls, 
are covered with a coating of thin white plaster. 
The altar is separated from the body of the church 
by a high screen, richly covered and gilded. This 
screen is surmounted by a large gilded cross, reach- 
ing nearly to the roof. There are many paintings of 
saints, great and small, all in the flat hard style com- 
mon in Greek churches. Thirty-four silver lamps 
hang from the roof, and some of them are exquisite 
specimens of workmanship. The floor is very beau- 
tifully paved with marble of different colors, wrought 
into figures. On the altars there is quite a display of 
pixes, chalices, and crosses, set with precious stones. 
They show the silver lid of a sarcophagus, represent- 
ing a full-length figure of the Empress Anne, of 
Russia, who, it seems, intended to be buried here. 



CHAPEL OF THE BURNING BUSH. 



12D 



Another is shown, covered with a white pall, said to 
contain the bones of St. Catharine, which were found 
in the neighboring mountain, whither, according to 
the monkish legend, her body was conveyed by 
angels. The alcove over the altar exhibits, in 
Mosaic, a large picture of the transfiguration, and 
portraits of Justinian and his Empress Theodora. 

The most sacred spot is the chapel of the Burning 
Bush. We descended a few steps from the interior 
of the church to a low door, where we were desired 
to take off our shoes before entering this sanctum 
sanctorum. I really thought the old superior and 
monks made more ceremony about admitting us, 
than reverence after we were in. The spot desig- 
nated the Burning Bush, is covered with silver, over 
which are several lamps continually burning ; and 
the whole chapel is richly carpeted. Near by they 
show tlfe well also, from which (as they say) Moses 
watered Jethro's flocks. On the altar were lying 
two very beautiful MSS. of the gospels. The exte- 
rior of the church is without any architectural 
beauty. On each side of the entrance I noticed sev- 
eral shields and coats of arms, rudely engraved on 
the stone. These, no doubt, were memorials of the 
chivalry of the crusades, and perhaps scratched 
with their daggers by some knightly pilgrims. 

Besides the great church, there are twenty-four 
chapels in different parts of the convent. Some of 
these formerly belonged to the Latins, and some ear- 
lier to the Syrians, Armenians, and Copts. At pre- 
sent, they are all in the hands of the Greeks. One of 
these, I noticed, is dedicated to St. George. It is 
gaudily adorned, containing flat staring pictures of 

6* 



130 



LIBRARY. 



saints, with gilded glories round their heads. The 
saint himself is represented as on a charger, with his 
spear and shield, while the dragon is trampled under 
his feet. Another chapel is dedicated to St. Catha- 
rine, the patroness of the convent. Not far from the 
great church stands also a Mohammedan mosque, 
large enough for two hundred worshippers. It is 
said this was built about three hundred years ago, 
when the convent was threatened by one of the 
Moslem rulers of Egypt. Permitting this mosque 
to be built was a compromise with the infidel, and 
this, say the monks, saved the convent. 

The library contains a very considerable number 
of books, both in print and manuscript ; principally in 
Greek and Arabic. They are in sad confusion, and 
appear to be but little used. The good old superior 
seemed to be very ignorant of any knowledge of 
their contents. Knowing that I spoke the English 
language, he put into my hands a very thin octavo, 
to which he appeared to attach considerable value. 
It was an annual report of the London Bible Society ! 

In the garden of the convent is the cemetery of the 
monks. We were conducted to this charnel-house 
with some seeming reluctance. This may be owing 
to some indiscreet travellers having wounded the 
feelings of the monks, by expressing either disgust 
or great horror at the ghastly spectacle. A narrow 
staircase, cut into the rock, led down to an exca- 
vated square of about twenty feet. On the left of 
this was a small door opening into a vault, where 
formerly the bodies of dead monks were laid on an 
iron grating, till all the flesh was wasted away, and 
only the bones remained. Now they are buried for 



CEMETERY. 



131 



about three years. The bones are then taken up, 
washed, and placed in the great cemetery, which is 
situated directly opposite. In following to this great 
depository of human skulls and bones, we first 
passed a small antechamber, and from this through 
a low door into the great cemetery. This is also 
divided into two rooms or vaults ; one containing the 
bones of priests, and the other of lay monks. At our 
left hand, as we entered, in the corner of the room, 
was a most huge pile of skulls, kept in a compact 
form by a fence at one side and end of the pile. The 
fence was about four feet high, forming in conjunc- 
tion with the wall a bin or crib, about eight feet 
wide, and twenty long. It was full of skulls, and 
rounded up at the top. Directly in front of the en- 
trance was a pile of bones more than ten feet high, 
extending along the whole width of the chamber, 
and hgw deep I could not see. Here legs occupy 
one part of the pile, arms another, ribs another, &c. 
The bones of priests and laymen are piled sepa- 
rately, in different vaults ; except the skulls, which 
are thrown promiscuously together. The bones of 
the archbishops whose bodies are always brought 
hither with their clothing and property,* after death, 
are kept separately in wooden boxes. The skeleton 
of one particular saint was pointed out to us, also 
those of two ascetics, who are said to have lived as 
hermits in the adjacent mountain many years, wear- 
ing shirts of mail next the body, and binding them- 
selves together by the leg with an iron chain, parts 
of which are here preserved. 

This was emphatically the house of death ! Here 

* Robinson. 



132 



GARDEN OF THE CONVENT. 



he has sat enthroned for centuries, and here he still 
sits. Here even" year he has been receiving new 
victims, until this great charnel house is nearly filled 
up with the fleshless relics of the dead. Never be- 
fore had I visited a depository of lifeless remains 
fraught with so much for solemn reflection ! And 
yet the monks seemed to catch none of the spirit of 
the place. There was a. stillness in their manner, 
but no solemnity. 

The garden joins the convent on the north expend- 
ing for some distance down the valley, and is in like 
manner enclosed with high walls. Like the convent, 
it lies along the slope of the mountain. It is formed 
into several terraces and planted with fruit trees. 
The Superior excused the state of the garden from a 
long-continued drought. It. however, appeared beau- 
tifully verdant, in contrast with the reigning desola- 
tion that surrounds it. Besides the tall, dark cy- 
presses, exhibiting such beauty at a distance, it con- 
tains an assortment of the fruit adapted to the climate. 
There were in it pears, pomegranates, oranges, figs, 
quinces, apricots, mulberries, olives, and many vines. 
But few vegetables of any kind appeared to he culti- 
vated in it. It is true, the garden did not present 
much taste or order, yet it looked like a green spot 
in the midst of surrounding sterility and barrenness. 

At the south-east comer of the garden, the wall is 
mounted on the inside by a style, with a ladder to 
let down outside, forming a way of entrance to the 
garden and convent. When ladies happen to wander 
as travellers into this solitary region, they are usually 
introduced by this way. There is, also, a similar 
entrance to the garden through a small building on 



DISCIPLINE. 



133 



the wall in the north-west part. This is easier and 
more used, as the wall here has a slight inclination, 
and is ascended by the help of a rope. Both these' 
passes are strictly shut up at night. 

The discipline of the convent is very severe The 
monks are obliged to attend mass twice every day. 
Animal food is prohibited them, and even fish ; yet 
they are all hearty and athletic looking men. The 
old Superior is rather corpulent. They have small 
bells in the convent, which appear to be seldom used. 
The monks are summoned to their duties, by striking 
with a hammer on a long piece of stone, suspended 
by a cord from the middle, which sends forth a most 
doleful sound. The number of monks I do not exactly 
recollect, but think it was a little short of thirty. 
Here they dwell apart from the world in the very 
bosom of solitude. Here at the foot of the mount of 
God, they keep their vigils and say their prayers ; 
and here they maintain a habitation inviting and 
comfortable to the weary traveller. Were it not for 
this convent as a resting place, Mount Sinai would, 
indeed, be seldom visited by civilized man. 

On our arrival, we were conducted to the depart- 
ment called the Strangers' Rooms. The rooms we 
occupied were small and tolerably neat. The floor 
was covered with carpets, though considerably worn. 
A low divan, neatly cushioned, was raised along 
three sides of the room, which served as a place to 
spread our bedding at night. Our meals were pre- 
pared in an adjacent room. This business was at- 
tended to by our interpreter and cook, under the 
direction of an old monk, near eighty. Soon after 
our arrival we succeeded in purchasing a kid of the 



134 



MONKS. 



neighboring Arabs, which furnished us with meat 
during our stay. The convent furnished us with 
very good bread, and some other articles. In the 
court near the Strangers' Rooms, is a large well ; but 
the water for drinking is usually taken from the 
Fountain of Moses, near the church, and is very 
pure and excellent. 

1 should say of these monks that they are good, 
honest-hearted men. In mind, I should think them 
rather ordinary ; indeed, I did not notice one that in- 
dicated great or vigorous intellect. Not one of them 
could speak English, though one or two could con- 
verse in Italian. Several of them could not even 
converse with our Arab interpreter. Soon after our 
arrival a young monk, who was a Russian, came to 
us with great interest to make some inquiries. Two 
aged Russians had visited the convent about two 
months before, and, as he said, had told him that war 
had broken out between Russia and America— that 
the Emperor Nicholas had sent one hundred ships of 
war to the United States, to take that country. On 
our assuring him we had never heard of such an 
event before, he was greatly surprised. I told him 
I had left the United States less than three months 
before ; and assured him that, up to that time, no 
such affair had happened, nor was it even talked of. 
This relieved his mind greatly. He said he had a 
brother in the Russian navy, and he had felt great 
anxiety through fear that he had been sent on that 
expedition. Poor monks in this solitude ! what can 
they know of the affairs of the world ? 

The monks appear to be on tolerably friendly 
terms with the Arabs around the convent. This 



MOUNT SINAI. 



135 



friendship, however, is in a manner purchased. They 
have to pay the Arabs a small tribute of bread every 
week. They collect under the wall at the appoint- 
ed time, and, the rope being let down, they fasten to 
it their bags. These are drawn up, and a portion of 
bread is put into each, when they are again tossed 
down, one by one, to the hungry expectants below. 

These Arabs inhabit caves in the neighboring 
mountains, and belong to none of the regular tribes, 
calling themselves simply "mountaineers." They 
are said to be descended from a few slaves, origin- 
ally from the shores of the Black Sea, who were sent 
here by Justinian, as menial servants to the priests. 
As they increased in numbers, they were settled by 
the convent as guardians of the orchards and date- 
groves throughout the peninsula. But at a subse- 
quent period the Bedoins deprived the convent of 
many of its possessions, and these slaves became 
Moslems, and adopted the Bedoin habits. They ac- 
knowledge their descent from the Christian slaves ; 
and some of them are still employed in the convent 
garden, and in collecting fire-wood.* 

The mountain on which the peak of Sinai is situ- 
ated is called, to a certain height, Maunt Horeb. 
Now I know of no reason based on Scripture to ap- 
ply the name of Horeb to any one mountain in this 
district. It more properly belongs to the whole dis- 
trict, including every mountain and valley in it. By 
consulting the Bible, it will be seen that whenever 
Horeb is mentioned, the transaction referred to at 
the time is said to have taken place in, and never 
upon, Horeb. 4 Behold, I will stand before thee 

* Kinnear. 



136 



MOUNT SINAI. 



upon the rock in Horeb." " They made a calf in 
Horeb, and worshipped the molten image." Wher- 
ever the events which occurred at Sinai are record- 
ed, they are spoken of as having taken place upon 
the mount ; or the phraseology is such as to indicate 
that Sinai was one entire individual mountain of the 
group, in the district of Horeb. " They pitched their 
tent in the wilderness, and there they encamped be- 
fore the mount." " The third day the Lord will 
come down in sight of all the people, upon Mount 
Sinai. Take heed to yourselves that ye go not up 
into the mount. And Moses went down from the 
mount. And the Lord came down upon Mount Sinai, 
on the top of the mount ; and Moses went up" All 
this, to me, plainly indicates that Mount Sinai was an 
individual mountain ; while the manner in which 
Horeb is mentioned would lead one to regard it 
rather as a general appellation for the whole district. 
We also find Horeb mentioned in connexion with a 
certain event which occurred before the arrival of 
the children of Israel at what is termed, in the fol- 
lowing chapter, " the wilderness of Sinai." When 
the people did chide with Moses at Rephidim, saying, 
" Give us water that we may drink," the Lord com- 
manded Moses to take his rod in his hand, and go, 
" And, behold, I will stand before thee on the rock 
which is in Horeb ; and thou shalt smite the rock." 
And in a subsequent chapter, we read that the chil- 
dren of Israel "were departed from Rephidim, and 
were come to the desert of Sinai." I would conclude, 
from this, that Horeb was a term for the whole dis- 
trict around Mount Sinai, for a considerable extent. 
Jan. 10. Having fixed upon this day as our time 



MONKISH LEGEND. 



137 



for ascending Mount Sinai, we made early prepara- 
tions for the journey. A young ?iovitiate who could 
speak Italian, agreed to accompany us as a guide. 
Passing through the subterranean passage into the 
garden, and thence descending the wall by aid of a 
rope, we here met two Arabs who were also to ac- 
company us. They were to carry some provisions 
for us, and the means of making coffee. The way 
of ascent is through a ravine on the south of the 
convent. The course from the convent to this pass, 
and nearly to the head of it, is about south. It here 
opens a passage through the almost perpendicular 
sides of the mountain. At first the ascent was easy, 
but at length it became steep ; and for twenty 
minutes we ascended on rude stone steps. In half 
an hour we came to a beautiful clear fountain under 
an overhanging rock. The water of this spring is 
said to be carried down to the convent by an aque- 
duct. It is, by the Arabs, called the mountain-spring. 
In relation to the origin of this fountain, the monks 
relate a most improbable legend. They say that 
under this rock a cobbler pilgrim who had come to 
the holy mountain, once seated himself, on a hot day. 
Being an industrious man. while sitting here, he took 
out his cobbler-tools and commenced cobbling. 
While he was here at work, he thought of the wick- 
edness of the world, its temptations, and of the devil's 
peculiar tact to catch cobblers. He resolved at once 
to leave the world, turn hermit, and live under this 
rock. There was no water near it then ; but as soon 
as he had made this resolution, the water gushed 
forth, and a living fountain has remained here ever 
since. Such is the simple legend which the monks 



138 



A CHAPEL. 



say they believe. The water of this spring is ex- 
cellent. 

In about half an hour more, we came to a little 
chapel dedicated to the Virgin. Around this place, 
some centuries ago, resided a large number of her- 
mits. The chapel had been fitted up several times ; 
but the Arabs had as often entered it and destroyed 
its contents. I saw in it a small, solid picture of 
the Virgin. The spot where this chapel stands, is 
well suited to retirement. It is quiet and isolated, 
but not wholly dreary ; and is well suited to a con- 
templative spirit. 

Passing onward, sometimes by means of rude steps 
made with stones, we entered a defile of precipitous 
rocks, and soon reached a gate about three feet wide. 

When pilgrimages were frequent to this place, a 
guard was stationed here, to whom it was necessary 
to show a pass, or permission from the Superior of 
the convent. A little beyond this is another narrow 
passage, secured by a door. Here it was formerly 
necessary to show a pass from the keeper of the gate 
below. At this place a very few men could make a 
successful defence against a large army. This pas- 
sage gives entrance into a small plain or basin of 
land. In ascending the peak of Sinai, that part of 
the mountain called Horeb, terminates at this plain. 
Professor Robinson estimates this plain at about 
thirteen hundred feet above the valleys around the 
base of the mountain. On the right, clusters of rocks 
and peaks from two to four hundred feet higher than 
this plain or basin, extend some two miles north- 
north- west. These terminate in a high, bold front, 
which faces the plain of Rahah, situated directly 



PEAK OF SINAI. 



139 



north of this entire mountain. All this last-described 
part of the mountain bears the name of Mount 
Horeb. This, however, as I have already stated, I 
consider improper. The entire mountain should be 
called Sinai. 

But, to return to the plain or basin into which I 
had just mentioned of entering, it is an open space 
of some twenty rods long and perhaps four rods wide. 
Near its centre is a well, called the Fountain of 
Elias ; and the monks say the prophet dug this with 
his own hands, when he dwelt in this mountain. It 
is a well of considerable depth, and stoned up in the 
regular form. Near it is a tall cypress, the only tree 
on the mountain, and said to have been planted by 
the monks more than a hundred years ago. It has a 
beautiful appearance in the midst of this solitude. 
A few rods from the well, and just where the ascent 
of Sinai begins, is a small, rude, stone building, con- 
taining the chapels of Elijah and Elisha. In that 
of Elijah, the monks show, near the altar, a hole just 
large enough for a man's body. This, they say, was 
the cave where the prophet dwelt in Horeb. 

Leaving this building, which is dilapidated and fast 
going to decay, we began our ascent of what is called 
the peak of Sinai. The way is steep, though not dif- 
ficult, as in many places there are steps constructed 
of stones laid together. On our way we turned a 
little one side to see the track of Mohamet's camel, 
said to be left in the solid rock, as a memorial of his 
having once ascended this mountain. It is, indeed, a 
very tolerable representation of the track of a drom- 
edary, chiselled in the rock with some considerable 
accuracy. Mohammedan priests undoubtedly know 



140 



THE DECALOGUE. 



as well how to play off monkish tricks, as some who 
bear the Christian name. This wonderful track, too, 
is a very good specimen of their skill in playing at 
humbuggery. In about thirty minutes after leaving 
the chapel of Elijah, we arrived at the summit of 
Mount Sinai. Solemn indeed were my impressions, 
as I stepped upon the hallowed rock, once signalized 
by the most awful display of Jehovah's presence, 
where Moses talked with God, and where the law, 
written on tables of stone, was given to man as the 
sacred rule of righteous living. Was it a dream, 
that I stood on that hallowed spot? No, all was 
reality ! I could see the place every way suited for 
the awful display recorded by the sacred historian. 
After indulging a few moments' reflections amidst a 
hasty view of the scenery, one of our company read 
from the holy book, the ten commandments. Never 
had I listened to the sacred Decalogue, with such 
solemn awe. I heard as if here receiving them from 
the Deity himself. I took the Bible, and silently read 
them over again. Never till my latest breath, shall 
I forget the overwhelming sensations of my mind, 
while standing on the bleak, lonely summit of the 
sacred mount of God ! 

The nearly level surface at the top of Sinai, is 
about sixty feet square. Its elevation above the level 
of the sea, is about 7500 English feet. At the eastern 
part of the level area, is a small chapel, nearly in 
ruins. It has stood here for many centuries ; and 
here, in the early ages of Christianity, monks and 
hermits used to retire and sing the praises of God on 
the summit of Sinai. About forty feet to the north- 
west of this, is a small Mohammedan mosque, in a 



M0NAST1CISM. 



141 



ruinous state. The followers of Christ and the fol- 
lowers of Mohamet have here united in early fixing, 
as by common consent, this spot as the place where 
the law was given to Moses ; and here they still unite 
in worshipping the true and living God. 

In centuries gone by, many hermits took up their 
abodes in the rocky caverns of this mountain. In 
the East, the superstition of monastic life first took 
its rise. First, a single individual, withdrawing him- 
self from the society of men, wandered for years 
among the rocks and sands of the Desert, devoting 
himself to a religious vow, by bodily mortification. 
This scene of mistaken humility and self-torture 
caught the imaginations of other frenzied minds. 
Many followed the example, emulating each other 
in self-abasement and bodily afflictions. The deserts 
of Thebaid were covered with hermits ; and many 
thousands of anchorites were wasting out their lives 
in the gloomy wilds of Sinai, startling the solitude 
with the cries of their self-afflicted torture.* The 
ruins of their cells and convents may still be seen in 
every part of this mountain. At present, no solitude 
can be more perfect than that of this bleak mountain 
of rock. Indeed, the whole scenery of this and the 
neighboring mountains may well be compared to "a 
sea of desolation." Not a tree, or shrub, or blade of 
grass, is to be seen on the bare and rugged sides of 
the numerous mountains, rearing their dark and 
hideous forms on every side of Sinai. 

I shall not perplex the reader with an examination 
of every vain speculation employed to set aside the 
present Sinai, and fix on some other part of this moun- 

* Stevens. 



142 



USELESS SPECULATIONS. 



tain, or even some other mountain in the neighbor- 
hood, as the place where the law was given. Some 
travellers seem rather to pride themselves in at- 
tempts to remove ancient landmarks, and change 
long traditionated locations. In the midst of Bible 
scenery, they should never do this but with extreme 
reluctance, and then never but with overwhelming 
reasons for the change. About all travellers now 
admit that the plain of Rahah. situated directly on 
the north side of this mountain, must have been the 
main place of the Israelite encampment at the time 
the law was given on Sinai. No other valley in the 
entire region of Horeb, of the extent of the plain of 
Rahah, or even suited for such an encampment, is to 
be found. This being settled, the next probable lo- 
cation for Sinai is this very mountain. Here is a 
mount that may be touched from that plain. Here 
is a mountain in the entire view of that plain, and 
valleys branching from it. I regret to see that, 
though Professor Robinson admits the law to have 
been given on this mountain, he thinks it must have 
been on an entire different part of it, i. e., on the 
northern side or peak, directly in front and in full 
view of the plain of Rahah. His objections are the 
distance that the traditionated peak of Sinai is situ- 
ated from this plain, and that no part of it could be 
seen from the plain of Rahah. Now, in my judg- 
ment, this short distance constitutes no valid objec- 
tion, when we duly consider the Scripture represen 
tation of the scene. "And Mount Sinai was alto- 
gether in a smoke, because the Lord descended upon 
it, and the whole mount quaked greatly." This aw- 
ful display of the divine presence, which covered the 



MOUNT ST. CATHARINE. 



143 



whole mount, could certainly be seen from the plain 
of Rahah ; and what more, I ask, could be seen from 
the location chosen by Professor Robinson ? "And 
the Lord came down upon Mount Sinai, on the top of 
the mount." Certainly the top of the mount means, 
in its strictest sense, the highest part. Has Profes- 
sor R. then fixed on the highest part, or peak of the 
mountain ? No : but on one some hundreds of feet 
lower than the peak of the present Sinai. I repeat 
**t, I see no cause to exchange the present Sinai for 
Any other location to be seen anywhere in its 
vicinity. 

We descended the mountain in about one-half the 
time we had occupied in ascending it ; and on arriv- 
ing at the convent were both weary and hungry. 

Early the next morning, preparations were made 
to ascend Mount St. Catharine, which is divided 
from Mount Sinai by a narrow ravine on the west. 
Taking with us the same guides, and passing out by 
the same way we had the previous day, our course 
led us around the north and west sides of Mount 
Sinai. This made us a walk of about four miles, to 
the place of ascending Mount St. Catharine. Our 
course at first was nearly north ; and at but a short 
distance from the convent we, passed what the 
monks call the ruins of the house of Aaron. As 
these are doubtless fabulous, they need not be de- 
scribed. Arriving at the north side of Sinai, the 
long plain of Rahah was spread out, extending north 
about two miles. Its widest places are something 
like half a mile. Here, undoubtedly, the Israelites 
mainly encamped during the giving of the law on 
Sinai. On the border of this plain we came to a 



144 



SINGULAR ROCK. 



broad, flat stone, with a few holes indented in its 
surface. This was represented to us as the place 
where Moses threw down the tables of the law, and 
broke them, when he returned from the mount, and 
found the people engaged in idolatrous worship. 
About fifteen minutes farther brought us to another 
stone of singular legend. It was represented as no 
other than the one in which Aaron cast the golden 
calf. The monks think they can see the exact 
mould of the calf's head still remaining in that rock. 
I was, however, unable to discern it. A short dis- 
tance farther, to the right of our path, was a He- 
brew burial-ground. It had that appearance ; but I 
have no correct historical knowledge of the periods 
of its having been used as such. The monks say 
the Hebrews buried their dead there while they 
were encamped before Sinai ! 

Near the place of turning into the valley that 
winds round the west side of Sinai, was a small 
garden, with fruit-trees in it ; and, a short distance 
beyond that, another. Both of these belong to the 
convent, and are tended by Arab servants employed 
by the monks. Both these gardens stand in the 
midst of desolate barrenness, and are the only green 
spots of the landscape. They mark the sites of two 
monasteries, now entirely gone to decay. At a short 
distance farther, we came to the rock which they say 
Moses smote and the water gushed out. This rock 
is of a large cubic form, and is a kind of coarse red 
granite. Down its front, in an oblique line from top 
to bottom, appears to run a seam of fine texture, 
about one foot broad. In this are several irregular, 
horizontal crevices or gashes, of perhaps ten inches 



TRADITIONARY RELICS. 



145 



in length and three or four broad in the centre, one 
above another. The seam extends through the rock, 
and is seen on the back side, where are also similar 
gashes, though rather smaller. I could not deter- 
mine that these holes were artificial, though I exam- 
ined them carefully. The rock is rather a singular 
one ; but to me it had the appearance of having fal- 
len from the side of the mountain. There is not a 
shadow of ground for assuming a connection be- 
tween this narrow valley and Rephidim. The part 
of Horeb where Moses smote the rock, must have 
been near to Rephidim ; and this miracle was 
wrought when Israel was a day's march from Sinai. 
There is no evidence, then, that the rock here shown, 
was the scene of this miracle. 

About fifteen minutes farther on, we came to what 
is called the convent of " The Forty Martyrs," from 
the circumstance that the Arabs once took it by 
surprise and killed the forty monks that were its 
inmates. The convent, as such, has been deserted 
for many years, and is now fast going to decay. 
We found it entirely empty, out of repair, and very 
filthy. Around the building is a garden and a large 
variety of fruit-trees. In the garden, also, is a 
fountain of pure water. 

A few rods distant from this place, in a south- 
westerly direction, we commenced our ascent of Mt. 
St. Catharine. I need not here describe our toil 
and labor in ascending this bare, high, and majestic 
mountain. We arrived at its summit after a most 
fatiguing toil of three hours and twenty minutes. 

Mount St. Catharine is the great rival of Sinai, in 
the range of mountains on this peninsula : but the 

7*' 



146 



A LEGEND. 



former is a little over one thousand feet the highest, 
its summit being about 8500 English feet above the 
level of the sea. It takes the name of St. Catharine 
from the following legend, which the reader is left 
to believe if he can. I will give it in the words of 
Mr. Stevens : " In the early days of the Christian 
Church, the daughter of the king of Alexandria 
became converted. While her father remained a 
pagan, she tried to convert him ; but, indignant at 
the attempt, he cast her in prison, where she was 
visited by the Saviour, who entered through the key- 
hole, and married her with a ring which is now in 
the hands of the empress of Russia. Her father cut 
her head off, and angels carried her body to the top 
of this mountain, and laid it on a rock. For cen- 
turies, no one knew where it was deposited ; the 
Christians believing that it had been carried up into 
heaven, until about two centuries ago, when a 
monk in the convent dreamed where it had been 
laid. The next morning he took his staff and climbed 
to the top of the mountain ; and there, on the naked 
rock, fresh and blooming as in youthful beauty, after 
a death of more than a thousand years, he found the 
body of the saint. The monks then went up in 
solemn procession, and, taking up the body, bore it 
in pious triumph to the convent below, where it now 
lies in a coffin with a silver lid, near the great altar 
in the chapel, and receives the homage of all pious 
pilgrims." Now, on the summit of this mountain, 
and over the spot where this body was said to be 
found, stands a small stone chapel, at present much 
dilapidated and out of repair. In the centre of this 
chapel, the monks, to this day, think they can see a 



VIEW FROM MT. ST. CATHARINE. 



147 



likeness of the body of St. Catharine, in an impres- 
sion made in the rock ! 

This mountain has but little of historical interest 
connected with it ; at least none with the giving of 
the law. Although it is a most laborious task to 
ascend it, yet well does it repay the traveller for his 
pains. The day was serene, cloudless, and beautiful. 
None could have been better suited to our purposes 
of observation. Mount St. Catharine overlooks 
everything in its vicinity, and seemingly every 
mountain on the peninsula. If a boundless expanse 
of dark, naked towering mountains, surging up in 
every shape and form, can afford a scene to attract 
the gaze of wonder and admiration, here the travel- 
ler has it spread below him to perfection. Never 
had my eyes roamed over scenery in nature to com- 
pare with this. Stretching north, lay the Gulf of 
Suez to our left, visible nearly its entire length. To 
our right, stretching north-east, lay the Gulf of 
Akabah. Directly south lay the Red Sea, over which 
our eyes travelled as far as vision could stretch. 
Every peak of the numberless mountains around us 
lay below the vast eminence on which we were 
standing. Even over the dark, towering peak of 
Sinai, we could see mountains beyond mountains in 
the vast distance. Indeed, looking on three sides of 
us, countless mountains seemed spread below as, in 
the form of a vast amphitheatre. No man can gaze 
from the top of Mount St. Catharine on this vast 
expanse of nature, in its wildest and most desolate 
form, but with impressions never to be forgotten. 
As his eye wanders over this dark sea of desolation — 
as he gazes on the numberless massive pea.ks tower- 



148 



VULGAR SUPERSTITIONS. 



ing up in every fantastic form, spread over the vast 
field beneath him, he is ready to exclaim, "Great and 
marvellous are thy works, Lord God Almighty ! just 
and true are thy ways, thou King of saints ! " 

At this great elevation the air was piercing and 
chilly. We seated ourselves within the little chapel, 
and there took our lunch and coffee. Then, reluc- 
tantly tearing ourselves from a scenery so vast, so 
wild, and so interesting, we set out to retrace our 
path to the foot of the mountain. On our return, as 
we entered the recess west of the plain of Rahah, 
we were pointed to the place where the earth open- 
ed and swallowed up Korah, Dathan, and Abiram. 
This is another monkish error. That occurrence took 
place, according to Scripture, at Kadesh, not Sinai. 
We reached the convent at a little past sunset. 

The next day was devoted to arrangements for our 
final departure on the day following. 



CHAPTER X. 

Departure from the Convent— A Bloody Scene threatened — A Sheik's 
Tomb — Mountain Scenery — An Alarming Incident — Preparations for 
Battle— Providential Escape— Majestic Scenery — Gulf of Akabah — A 
Difficult Pass — Remains of an Ancient Fortress — Arrival at Akabah, 
and Reception— Parting with Tueileb and his men — Cities of Ezion- 
geber and Elath — Present Fortress of Akabah— Visit to the Governor 
— Pastime during Detention. 

January 13. Tueileb had arrived with his camels 
and escort of men, and the time had now come for 
us to take leave of the kind monks at Mount Sinai, 
who had indeed received us affectionately and enter- 
tained us hospitably. They make no bill of charge 



DEPARTURE. 



149 



to the strangers they entertain, and ask of them no 
remuneration for their services. There is, however, 
a well-known rule, which gentlemen travellers will 
not forget to observe. That is, on leaving the con- 
vent, to present a few English sovereigns to the old 
Superior. Who would go away and not do this ? 
Surely, no gentleman. We paid the young novitiate 
who had served as guide, and presented the old monk 
who had superintended our table with a handsome 
present. When a few shining pieces of gold were 
put into the hand of the old gray-bearded Superior, 
his large black eyes glistened approbation of the act. 
All appeared satisfied, and the parting scene was 
warm and affectionate. Peace to that kind, simple 
brotherhood ; and long may that peaceful convent 
remain a resting-place for the weary traveller. The 
windlass was now manned, and one by one we were 
slung out upon the rope, and lowered down in the 
same manner we had been hoisted up on our arrival. 

On getting down to our camels, we found the Arabs 
in a most angry state of quarrel, and seemingly on 
the very verge of battle and bloodshed. An aged 
sheik, called Tiger by way of distinction, had come 
to the convent, and insisted upon the right of supply- 
ing three of the camels necessary to convey us and 
our baggage to Akabah. Tueileb remonstrated, and 
insisted upon the right of conveying us himself. Old 
Tiger showed himself rightly named. His counte- 
nance actually became frightful, and his eyes flashed 
fire. In the height of the quarrel, he sprang and 
caught up his sword, which was lying a short dis- 
tance from him. Tueileb and another seized hold of 
it with their hands, while old Tiger wrenched and 



150 



sheik's tomb. 



scuffled to get it in bis own possession. We now- 
expected to see serious work. The sword was taken 
by force and put away ; but the quarrel still con- 
tinued loud and boisterous. All at once it softened 
down : old Tiger had prevailed, and three of his 
camels were put into the caravan. But although his 
camels were going in room of three of Tueileb's, we 
were right glad to learn that he was not to be one of 
our company. Never had I seen a more savage or 
blood-thirsty visage on any human being. 

At about 11 o'clock we got slowly under way. 
Our course led north, to the Valley of Rahah, which 
I have so often mentioned before ; when, crossing a 
part of that plain, we turned a north-easterly direc- 
tion into Waddy Sheik. The mountains in this 
direction we found not so high as those we had left, 
and the valleys generally wider. But all were still 
bare of timber, and nearly of vegetation, if we ex- 
cept a few thorn shrubs, and occasionally some 
clumps of coarse, rush-looking grass. It is, however, 
said, that on the tops of some of these mountains 
there is table-land productive of grass and even 
grain. 

Late in the afternoon we passed the tomb of Sheik 
Salih, a spot deemed very sacred by the Arabs on the 
peninsula. It is simply a rude hut of stones, in 
which the coffin of the saint is surrounded by a par- 
tition of wood hung with cloth, around which are 
suspended handkerchiefs, camels' halters, and other 
Bedoin offerings. This saint is held as the progeni- 
tor of the Sawalihah tribe. It is said that, once a 
year, all the tribes of the Tawarah make a pilgrim- 
age to this tomb, and encamp around it for three 



WADDY HAS ESH-SHUIKEISAH. 



151 



days. This is their greatest festival.* Encamped 
for the night in Waddy Sal. 

Jan. 14. Early this morning a kid was brought us, 
which we had bargained for the, evening before. We 
found it, however, so miserably poor, that we deemed 
but little of it eatable ; and consequently gave it 
nearly all to our Arabs. Soon after starting, we 
passed a large number of Arab tents. On the sides 
of the mountains their sheep and goats were feeding. 
We tried to purchase a sheep of them, but did not 
succeed. As we advanced to-day, the valley, in 
many places, was wide, and much of the thorn-shrub 
was scattered in various places. The camels crop 
the small twigs of this bush with great avidity. The 
mountains, to-day, bore every kind of shape, being 
uniformly of soft sand-stone. Some of them were 
like a pyramid, and others like a sharp cone ; while 
the peaks of some had been worn by the storms of 
centuries into so many fantastic shapes, that they 
often resembled the work of art. Encamped for the 
night in Waddy Ras esh-Shuikeirah. 

Jan. 15. Passed, to-day, some miles down the val- 
ley in which we had encamped. The mountains 
continued to be of soft sand-stone, worn into almost 
every imaginable form. In some instances, the tops 
of these mountains appeared to have once been com- 
posed of a different and harder kind of stone ; but in 
consequence of the sides near the base having worn 
away, the tops had tumbled over the sides in broken 
masses, and now lay scattered in promiscuous con- 
fusion. In many parts of the valley, the sand was 
deep, dry, and flexible. The Sirocco and Simoom 

* Burckhardt. 



152 



AN ALARMING INCIDENT. 



that blow in these regions, had, in many places, 
carried the yellow sand far up the sides of the moun- 
tains. About ten in the morning, we entered 
Waddy Gazellah. Here the mountains began to 
assume more of the granite appearance. As we 
still progressed, the sand-stone was lost in the more 
craggy and lofty appearance of the dark-red granite. 

Just as we entered this valley, three savage-look- 
ing Arabs came up with us, mounted on dromedaries. 
For a few minutes, the most angry and boisterous 
language ensued between them and Tueileb. Al- 
though all was in Arabic, we could not help seeing 
that something serious was in the wind. At length, 
the three wheeled their camels and rode off in the 
midst of boisterous talk, looking back and shaking 
their hands in the most threatening manner. As we 
were at this time a little in advance, our interpreter 
hastened to us with his eyes standing out with eager- 
ness and terror, crying, " There will be war, every 
gun, pistol, and sword must be got ready ! " We 
were soon informed what the difficulty was. We 
were now passing through a region inhabited by a 
strong tribe called the Muzeinies. They had sup- 
posed that the business of conducting Frank travel- 
lers from Cairo to Akabah was a money-making 
matter. These men had, consequently, been sent 
out to demand us of Tueileb ; alleging that he had 
no right to conduct travellers through their country 
and get pay for it — we must be delivered up to 
them, they take us to Akabah and receive the pay. 
If given into the hands of these barbarians, we knew 
we should have no security whatever ; nor was it 
probable, after getting us in their power, they would 



PREPARATIONS FOR BATTLE. 



153 



care much about our getting to Akabah, They 
were robbers by profession, and if they got us in 
possession, would most probably strip us of every 
thing, if not take our lives. Our situation was, in- 
deed, rather startling. Our entire party consisted of 
but thirteen, and although armed, we were prepared 
to make no formidable resistance, should a strong 
party come upon us. These men had gone off, de- 
claring they would go and bring a party of their 
tribe and take us hy force. Our interpreter appeared 
confident that they would come and attempt to take 
us, and Tueileb appeared rather apprehensive of the 
same thing. What was to be done ? 

Our caravan was called to a halt, and all dis- 
mounted. Every gun and pistol was seen to be well 
charged, and every sword girt on. This was the 
first time I had ever witnessed a formidable prepa- 
ration for battle, and must sa.y it was not a very 
pleasant place for one of my profession, with all my 
peace principles. Mr. B. had one of Colt's patent 
pistols, which would fire five shots in a minute. 
This was put in prime order, and a double-barrel 
gun, well charged, was placed on the pummel of my 
saddle for use. When all was got ready, we again 
mounted and moved on. As part of our camels 
were heavy loaded, we could not materially increase 
our speed. We, however, moved forward with a 
quick step, often looking back to see whether our ene- 
mies were coming. In about one hour we came to a 
valley branching to the left of Waddy Gazellah. The 
ground was hard and would not retain the tracks of 
our camels. Tueileb thought it best here to change 

our route by taking another valley. It would make 

7# 



154 



WADDY EL-AINE. 



a few hours' more travel, but should the threatening 
emissaries attempt a pursuit they might here be 
foiled by keeping the way they would naturally ex- 
pect us to take. The plan was adopted and the new 
course taken. We pursued our way with as much 
speed as possible, and glad to find, from hour to 
hour, that the threatened pursuers were not in sight. 
Late in the evening, we arrived at the borders of 
another tribe, where, fatigued and hungry, we ven- 
tured to encamp. Our entire company of Arabs, 
however, refused to sleep, but kept a watch all 
night. We ate a hearty meal of such as we had, 
and soon all thoughts of danger were lost in refresh- 
ing sleep. I never slept better. 

Jan. 16. The morning light found us still peaceful 
and undisturbed. Whether our enemies had been 
misled in their pursuit, by the change we had made 
in our course, or whether they staid at home, consid- 
ering " caution the better part of valor," we were 
unable to determine, and certainly we felt no dispo- 
sition either to go or send back to inquire. I have 
no doubt, however, had they come on, that Tueileb 
and his men would have defended us to the utmost 
of their power. 

We were now in Waddy El-Aine, leading directly 
towards the Gulf of Akabah. Shortly after setting 
out this morning, we came to a turn in the valley, 
which afforded us the most lofty and sublime display 
of mountain scenery that we had enjoyed since leav- 
ing Sinai. On three sides of us, mountains of naked 
red granite, rose in awful grandeur for thousands of 
feet in height, while the valley in which we were 
passing, was but a few feet wide. Towering cliffs 



ARABS TENDING THEIil FLOCKS. 



155 



almost, lost in the sky, reared their awful summits on 
either hand, in a continued range for miles. At one 
place the pass was not more than fifteen feet wide, 
and the rocks gave ample evidence that sometimes 
high torrents of water rush down this narrow gap 
during rainy seasons. At a short distance further, 
we found some springs of brackish water, of which 
the camels drank freely. Around the place was 
considerable of the oleander shrub, interspersed with 
the wild fig. At about noon, we came in sight of 
the Gulf of Akabah. The sea afforded a pleasant 
sight, just emerging, as we were, from the midst of 
loneliness and solitude. Arriving at the plain bor- 
dering on the gulf, our course turned north by east. 
We found this plain much cut up with water-courses, 
caused in the rainy season by the rush of water 
from among the mountains. 

In Our progress forward, we came to several 
clumps of palm-trees, situated near the sea-shore. 
Here we saw two wells of water, but it was ex- 
tremely brackish and bad. Near these were seve- 
ral Arabs tending flocks of goats. Of one of them 
we succeeded in purchasing a kid. Along the coast 
are immense quantities of sea-shells, and some of 
them very beautiful. We saw a white stork (the 
Egyptian Ibis) walking along the shore, and at a 
short distance was a large school of porpoises sport- 
ing. Encamped for the night near a tall mountain 
on the coast called Gibbel El-Adede. 

Jan. 17. This morning we walked ahead of our 
caravan for some miles. The weather was delight- 
ful, and the air balmy and bracing. At one place, a 
fine hare started up near us, but as we had not the 



156 



RUINS OF AN ARABIAN FORTRESS. 



means of taking him, he made his escape, These 
animals are numerous in that region. In some 
places, the plain is broad, but mostly bare of vegeta- 
tion. Along our left were ranges of dark towering 
mountains, and at certain points, these shut down 
close to the sea. In some places we saw mountains 
composed partly of granite and partly of sandstone, 
wmich gave them a very singular appearance ; the 
sandstone having worn into very fanciful shapes. 
At one o'clock, p.m., we came to a place where the 
direct pass was closed by a mountain projecting 
into the sea. Here our only passage was by a nar- 
row valley, winding back, from which we must cross 
this mountain higher up. In less than half an hour 
we came to a steep path leading over to the next 
valley. The path was very narrow, ascending close 
by a ledge of sandstone, and had the appearance of 
artificial work. After ascending to the summit, we 
followed a steep and rocky path to a broad valley 
below, between two promontories. Passing down 
this still further, we arrived at a valley near the 
sea-coast. We encamped for the night in Waddy 
Merakh. It was in the broken path we had just 
passed over, that Burckhardt was attacked by robbers. 

Jan. 18. This morning, about ten o'clock, we 
passed opposite the small island of Graia, called by 
the Arabs El Kurey. It is merely a narrow granite 
rock, of some three hundred feet in length, situated 
about a quarter of a mile from the shore. On it are 
the ruins of an Arabian fortress, with an embattled 
wall running around it, having two gateways with 
pointed arches. This is, without doubt, the former 
citadel of Elath, mentioned by Abulfeda, as lying in 




MOUNTAINS OF SEIE. 



157 



the sea. In a.d. 1182, it was unsuccessfully besieged 
with ships by the impetuous Rainald, of Chatillon. 
In Abulfeda's time (about a.d. 1300), it was already 
abandoned and the governor transferred to the castle 
on the shore, now Akabah. The ruins, therefore, 
cannot well be referred to later than the twelfth cen- 
tury.* They give the island a romantic appearance. 

We passed, to-day, immense quantities of shells on 
the coast, with many specimens of both red and white 
coral. Another substance was abundant, which had 
the appearance of petrified sponge. Crabs were 
also seen running along the shore. 

A little past noon we came to a bold, high pro- 
montory, approaching to near the water's edge. Our 
way wound around its base, and beyond it the moun- 
tains fall back, leaving near the coast low hills. 
The head of the gulf was plain before us, and em- 
bosomed in a grove of palm trees, on the opposite 
side, was to be seen the fortress of Akabah. We 
could now see the opening of the great valley of 
Arabah, stretching north towards the Dead Sea. 
Far up, on its east side, the dark mountains of Seir, 
of which I had so often read in Scripture, were rear- 
ing their huge summits in all the grandeur of wild 
desolation. The valley appeared strewn with yellow 
sand-drifts as far as the eye could stretch. Soon turn- 
ing in an easterly direction, we passed along the north 
end of the gulf, and winding around the east side, 
arrived at Akabah a little past 2 o'clock, p. m. Our 
tents were immediately pitched in the midst of a 
grove of palms, situated directly between the fortress 
and the sea — a picturesque and pleasant spot. 

* Robinson. 



158 



SHEIK HASSEIN. 



No sooner had we arrived than a large number of 
Arabs, large and small, gathered around us, among 
whom were several soldiers and officers of the for- 
tress. I marked, among them, the commanding 
officer, who was rather a fine-looking fellow for an 
Arab. The governor came to us soon after our tent 
was pitched. He was a small, swarthy, thin-beard- 
ed, greasy-looking fellow. Evidently he had dressed 
up a little for the occasion, and no doubt wanted to 
make a dignified impression. We invited him to a 
seat in our tent, served him with coffee, and then 
handed him the Pacha's firman, which we had 
brought from Cairo. After reading it over hastily, 
he exclaimed, tyebe (good), as; he handed it back. 
He then gave us a warm invitation to remove within 
the fortress. This we declined, preferring our pre- 
sent location. Soon after, he went away, but came 
again at about 5 o'clock, and smoked and took coffee. 
Mr. B. then fired his patent pistol, which discharges 
five shots in immediate succession. Several officers, 
beside the governor, were present. All expressed 
the greatest astonishment to see a fire-lock of such 
powerful dimensions. On taking his leave, the 
governor gave us the strongest assurance that we 
had nothing to fear while we remained in the place. 
He would set a guard of four men around our tent 
every night, and if anything should be stolen during 
our stay, he would see that it was restored. 

We had now arrived at the end of our engagement 
with Tueileb, and according to arrangement among 
the Bedoin tribes, he had no right to conduct us any 
further. Sheik Hassein, of the Alloeens, was to meet 
us at Akabah, with camels and an armed guard, to 



DEPARTURE OF TUEILEB. 



159 



conduct us thence by the ruins of Petra to Hebron. 
He and his men had been at Akabah three days be- 
fore, but had now left for his encampment, which 
was off a distance of two days' ride. Immediately 
on our arrival, a messenger was despatched on a 
dromedary to give him notice as soon as possible 
that we were here in waiting. We had now no 
better prospect before us than that of being detain- 
ed at Akabah at least five or six days. 

Jan. 19. This morning we parted with Tueileb 
and his men, having settled up with him the evening 
before, given him bucksheesh, and beside, a sheep and 
some coffee. Before parting, we served some buck- 
sheesh round among all his men. On taking final 
leave, they all shook hands with us in the most affec- 
tionate maimer, and the old sheik kissed us until we 
were tired of the ceremony. Indeed, when I came 
to part with these rude, untutored sons of the desert, 
I felt more of the tender spirit than I had anticipated. 
They had been kind and obliging, to a man, and I 
doubt not, had occasion required, would have defend- 
ed us at the risk of their lives. 

Sheik Tueileb is a man about sixty years of age, 
small in stature, and very lean in flesh. He is some 
cross eyed, of dark but mild countenance. For many 
years he has been a very influential sheik among the 
Tawarah Bedoins, and has conducted many travellers 
from Cairo to Sinai and Akabah. I believe every 
traveller he has had under his guidance, has spoken 
well of him. Through the whole time we were with 
him, he was uniformly affable and kind to us, as well 
as unwearied in his exertions to render our journey 
pleasant and interesting. As the Mohammedan reli- 



160 



EZION-GEBER ANE EI.ATH. 



gion allows four wives, Tueileb has two. He is con- 
sidered a man of property among his tribe, if indeed, 
a few camels, sheep and goats can entitle him to that 
appellation. I hesitate not to pronounce him honest 
and trustworthy to travellers who put themselves 
under his protection. 

Situated at the head of the gulf, it might be sup- 
posed that Akabah would be a place of some business. 
Not so. Desolation marks all its borders, and were 
it not for the fortress, with a few miserable Arab huts 
around it, embosomed in a beautiful grove of date 
palms that skirts the shore for about a mile and a 
half, the place would be a barren waste. The last, 
with the placid green waters of the gulf, afford all 
the inviting scenery there is in the place. Alas ! how 
has the visage of nature and art here changed ! In 
very ancient times, there were situated in this very 
vicinity, two cities of special note in Scripture histo- 
ry, Ezion-geber and Elath. The former is mentioned 
first as a station of the Israelites, from which they re- 
turned to Kadesh, probably a second time. Both 
places are again mentioned after that people had left 
Mount Hor, as the point where they turned eastward 
from the Red Sea, in order to pass around on the 
eastern side of the land of Edom. " And when we 
passed by from our brethren, the children of Esau, 
which dwelt in Seir, through the way of the plain 
from Elath and from Ezion-geber, we turned and 
passed by the way of the wilderness of Moab." — 
Deut. ii. 8. The Hebrew word translated plain, in 
the above passage, is " Arabah" the same as the pre- 
sent Arabic name of the great valley extending di- 
rectly north from tne Gulf of Akabah.* The two 

* 'Robinson. 



HISTORY. 



161 



places were near together. " Ezion-Geber, which is 
beside Elath on the shore of the Red Sea." — 1st 
Kings, ix. 26. 

Ezion-geber became famous as the port where 
Solomon, and after him Jehoshaphat, built fleets to 
carry on a commerce with Ophir. Josephus says it 
lay neariElana, and was afterwards called Berenice. 
But it is mentioned no more, and no certain trace 
of it seems now to remain. 

Elath was an ancient city of the Edomites, which 
was taken possession of by David when he conquered 
Edom. Under David and Solomon, it appears to 
have been a place of great importance, as command- 
ing the commerce carried on through this branch of 
the Red Sea. It remained in the hands of the Jews 
till the reign of Joram, when it was retaken by the 
Edomites. It was again taken by Azariah, but during 
the reign of Ahaz, " Rezin, king of Syria, recovered 
Elath to Syria, and drove the Jews out of Elath," nor 
did they ever regain possession of it. In the days of 
Jerome it was still a place of trade to India, and a 
Roman legion was stationed there. Elath became 
early the seat of a Christian church, and the names of 
four of its bishops are found in various councils, from 
320 to 526. But soon after Mohamet carried his 
victorious arms northward, Elath became lost under 
the shroud of Mohammedan darkness. In 1116, a 
party of crusaders, under Baldwin I. made an excur- 
sion to the Red Sea, took possession of Elath, and 
found it deserted. It was again wrested from the 
Christians by Saladin, in 1167. In Abulfeda's day, 
and before 1300, it was deserted. That author says, 
" In our day it is a fortress, in which a governor is 



162 



VISIT TO THE FORTRESS. 



sent from Egypt." Such as Elath was then, Akabah 
is now. Mounds of rubbish alone, about two miles 
north-west of the present fortress, mark the site of 
that ancient city. A fortress, occupied by a governor 
and a small garrison, under the Pacha of Egypt, 
serves to keep the neighboring tribes of the Desert in 
awe, and minister to the wants and protection of the 
annual Egyptian Hadj caravan on its way to and 
from Mecca.* Where once fleets of shipping lay 
moored, now not a bark of any kind is seen. There 
is not even a fishing boat in the place. 

At the invitation of the governor we visited the in- 
terior of the fortress. It is a quadrangle, enclosing, 
as near as I could judge, about one acre. The walls 
are stone, substantially built, and about thirty feet 
high, with a bastion and tower at each of the corners. 
All around the wall, on the inside, is a row of rooms 
with solid flat roofs, forming a platform around the 
interior of the castle. On each bastion there are some 
twelve pound carronades mounted. We found the 
fortress in bad regulation, and extremely filthy in 
every part. In a small room in the south-east bastion, 
the governor had us seated, and in a few minutes 
coffee was served us. From this he conducted us 
to other places, and at length to his own room, 
where coffee was again served us. This room was 
very coarse, the sides being uuplastered stone wall, 
with one window, but no glass. The floor was no- 
thing but the bare earth, and the covering overhead 
loose bamboo reeds. There was a divan on two 
sides, coarsely carpeted and very filthy. Finally, we 
found but little in either the governor or his apart 

* Robinson. 



TROOPS. 



163 



ment to court our stay. Excusing our brief visit, we 
returned to our tent. The governor always visited 
us as often as once a day to smoke and take coffee. 

There are but few troops kept in the fortress, and 
these seem to have nothing to do but to waste powder 
in shooting at a mark. We, however, saw them 
make some excellent shots, which proved them to be 
expert marksmen. The Arabs that dwell in huts 
around the fortress, seem to have nothing to do, and 
how they live is to me a mystery. During our stay, 
we amused ourselves in reading such books as we 
had with us, bathing in the sea, and hunting pigeons. 
We killed a quantity of these birds, which afforded 
some addition to our stock of provisions. Eagles 
were numerous in the vicinity. We occasionally 
purchased some good fresh fish of Arab fishermen. 
The red mullet are plenty in the Gulf, and of excel- 
lent flavor. The weather was excessively warm ; 
the flies were very annoying, and we had cause to 
be continually in fear of scorpions, which reptiles 
abound in the place. We were finally detained six 
days awaiting the arrival of Sheik Hassein. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Bedoin Arabs — Their General Appearance — Tents and Furniture — Dress 
— Their Women — Mode of Encamping — Food and Manner at Meals- 
Diseases — Degradation of their Women — Singular Manner of Courtship 
Marriages — Divorces — Circumcision — Funerals — Customs of Salutation 
— Hospitality — 'Robbery — Mode of settling Quarrels — Avengers of Blood 
— Barbarous Customs in War — Amusements — Education — Religion — 
Prophetic Fulfilment. 

In stature, the Bedoin Arabs are spare but straight, 
always carrying themselves very erect. They are 



164 



BEDOIN ARABS. 



seldom tall, and generally would fall below the me- 
dium size ; indeed, I never saw a fleshy person among 
them. Their complexion is about like that of the 
American Ifrdian, but their faces are more thin, and 
their featuresnot so heavy. Their eyes are uniform- 
ly black, and generally sunken in the head, with dark, 
heavy eye-brows. They have low foreheads, high 
cheek bones, noses of the Roman mould, thin lips, and 
very white teeth. Their hair is black and straight. 
Their countenances are sober, and they are seldom 
seen to smile. Their movements are generally 
quick, and they often show great dexterity. 

In the domestic life of a Bedoin, there is but little 
to attract the admiration of strangers. The tent 
forms his cherished home, and when he removes he 
carries his frail dwelling with him. The covering of 
his tent is a coarse black fabric, made of goats' hair. 
The tent is generally about seven feet high, and 
greatly differing in size, according to the wealth of 
the owner, or the number of his family. It is always 
divided into two apartments, one for the men and the 
other for the women. The furniture of a Bedoin 
tent may be comprised very briefly. A small carpet 
is spread at the back part, directly behind which are 
arranged his camel-saddles, on which his visitors may 
sit or recline ; his water bags, made of tanned goat- 
skins, with the hair on, and nearly whole as taken off 
the animal ; a few jars of rude pottery; a coffee-pot 
and coffee-cups ; a coffee-pan and mortar ; a few 
wooden dishes and wooden spoons. His weapons of 
defence, consisting of a short sabre, a brace of pistols, 
and a gun, with his entire camel-gear, also adorn his 
tent. When an Arab sits down, it is always on 



DRESS. 



165 



the ground, in the form of a tailor on his shop- 
board. 

The dress of a common Bedoin is very simple. It 
consists of a red woolen cap, a long white cotton 
shirt coming to the knees, a girdle around the waist, 
and sandals on his feet. Over this, he occasionally 
wears an outside dress called an abba. This is a 
coarse woolen stuff, striped white and brown ; is 
loose and very simple in its construction. It rather 
resembles a large sack, with openings for the head . 
and arms, and is wholly without sleeves. The dress 
of a sheik, however, is showy, and sometimes costly. 
Around his red cap is wrapped or wound, a large yel- 
low cotton kerchief, with a corner hanging down each 
side to protect his face and neck from the sun. He 
wears a shirt and leggins, and over the whole a long 
silk garment, with very large sleeves, striped with 
red, yellow, and blue ; red slippers, or yellow boots. 
In his belt, which is a thin cashmere sash, he carries 
a brace of Turkish pistols, and slung on the pummel 
of his saddle is either a double-barrel gun or a short 
carbine. Some of them carry a long lance. Occa- 
sionally he puts on a kind of cloak made of sheep- 
skins tanned, and the wool turned inside. The Be- 
doin always has his head shaved, with the exception 
of a small tuft on the crown. The beard is always 
worn long, and is esteemed very precious. Shaving 
the beard is sometimes inflicted as a punishment, 
and nothing is more humiliating. 

The female dress consists of a full length cotton 
gown, of dark color. A black kerchief is tied around 
the head, from which, by a clasp, is suspended a small 
veil, similar to that worn in Egypt. Over the head 



166 



THEIR WOMEN. 



is also thrown a large three-cornered black shawl, 
fastened under the chin, and falling down the back 
and to the hands. They are fond of huge silver jew- 
elry, and if able, always wear them, even though they 
go bare-footed. They generally tattoo their chins, 
lips, cheeks, and foreheads. These punctures are 
dyed with blue. Their eyelids and lashes they paint 
black with a preparation of lead ore, called kohel. 

The Bedoins seldom allow strangers to see their 
women in their tents, and never out of them, unless 
they are closely veiled. The men and women never 
eat together ; the males eat first, and then the females 
take what is left. When a stranger is introduced 
to their tent, the females always retire to their 
apartment, and are not even seen looking through a 
crevice at their lord and guest. It is reckoned a 
breach of decorum to salute one of their females in 
any form, or even to look at her steadfastly. 

The mode of encamping varies according to cir- 
cumstances. When the party is small and the tents 
few they are pitched in a circle. If the number be 
considerable, they are extended in a line. In that 
case, the sheik's tent is in the centre. When in a 
circle, his tent is in the most prominent position. 
When wandering in search of water and pasturage, 
they move in parties slowly over the plain. The 
armed men ride foremost, as a reconnoitring guard. 
The flocks with their young follow next, and behind 
some of the beasts of burthen, loaded with women 
and children, tents, baggage and provisions. 

From the constant, suspicious watchfulness of the 
Bedoin tribes, several of their senses become exceed- 
ingly acute. Their powers of vision and hearing 



MODE OF ENCAMPING. 



167 



continually improve in the open air. On their large 
plains they will discern an object beyond the reach 
of a less practised eye. But one of their most sin- 
gular faculties is that of discerning footsteps of men 
and beasts on the sand. A Bedoin will often deter- 
mine by footsteps, whether the individual belonged to 
his own or some neighboring tribe. He is thus ena- 
bled to determine whether he be a friend or an ene- 
my. He discerns, from the faintness or depth of the 
impression, whether the person carried a load or not ; 
whether he passed the same day or several days be- 
fore. From examining the length of the steps, he 
judges whether or not he was fatigued, as in that case 
the steps become shorter and more irregular. An 
Arab can distinguish the footmarks of his own camels 
from those of his neighbors. He can also determine 
whether the animal was pasturing, or loaded, or 
mounted by one or more persons. This sagacity be- 
comes extremely useful in the pursuit of fugitives, 
and searching after lost camels. It is said instances 
have occurred of camels having thus been traced by 
their owners to the residence of the thief, even at 
the distance of five or six days' journey. 

Inured to fatigue, they can endure hunger and 
thirst to a surprising degree. Those who travelled 
with us, for all that we could see ate but little. But 
when we invited a sheik to dine, he would eat about 
as much as three of us. It is said they travel days 
without tasting water. They are swift on foot, and 
certainly the finest horsemen I ever saw. They are 
very expert in handling their arms, and from fre- 
quently seeing them shoot at a mark, I know them to 
be excellent marksmen. It is said that their shep- 



168 



MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 



herds use the sling, and with it throw stones with 
great precision. Their lances are twelve or fifteen 
feet long, made of wood or bamboo, and pointed at 
both ends with steel. In striking, they balance it 
for some time over the head, and thrust either back- 
ward or forward if pressed by an enemy. 

The Bedoins are models of sobriety, rarely using 
intoxicating drinks of any kind. They, however, 
smoke tobacco excessively, and drink strong coffee. 
They never indulge in luxuries, except on festive oc- 
casions, or on the arrival of a stranger. Their usual 
articles of food are rice, dates, figs, milk, butter, and 
flour. Their bread is baked in hot ashes, and is al- 
ways eaten warm. Their style of cooking and eat- 
ing is slovenly and disagreeable. In eating, they use 
neither knives nor forks. They tear the meat with 
their fingers and dip every piece in a bowl of melted 
grease, placed in the middle. They eat with great 
avidity, thrusting the whole hand in the dish, which 
is soon emptied of its contents. They have only two 
meals a day — breakfast in the morning and dinner 
at sunset. They use the milk of goats and camels 
freely. Camels' flesh is occasionally eaten, and that 
of the female is preferred. The operation of churn- 
ing butter is performed in a goat-skin bag. This is 
usually tied to the tent-pole or the branch of a tree, 
and moved constantly backward and forward until 
coagulation takes place. Their butter thus made, 
has a profusion of goat's hair mixed with it, which 
seems not in the least to injure its relish with the 
Bedoins. They generally drink a small cup of coffee 
after meals, and when camels' milk is plenty, each 
is served with a bowl of that. The first time I 



DISEASES. 



169 



* tasted camel's milk, it was with some qualmish sen- 
sations, but in reality, I found it palatable and good. 

From the temperate and frugal habits of the Be- 
doins, fewer diseases prevail among them than among 
civilized nations. Many of them live to a great age. 
Leprosy, in its worst form, is said to be among them, 
though I did not see a case of it while in Arabia. 
The ravages of the smallpox have long since been 
arrested by artificial means. Jaundice, bilious com- 
plaints, agues, or intermittent fever, are of frequent 
occurrence, though seldom fatal. Toothache is 
rare, as a Bedoin's teeth are almost invariably sound. 

The wealth of a Bedoin consists almost entirely in 
his flocks. The profits of these enable him to procure 
the necessary provisions of wheat and barley, and 
occasionally some dresses and trinkets for his family. 
No family can subsist without at least one camel, 
and a man who has but ten is reckoned poor. 
Thirty or forty place him in easy circumstances, 
and if he have sixty, he is considered rich. How- 
ever, nature and circumstances combined render 
the wants of a Bedoin few and cheaply supplied. 

Domestic industry is little practised among them. 
The husband enjoys his amusement, while almost 
the entire care of the household devolves on the 
females. A menial degradation of women is common 
among the Arabs as well as other Asiatic nations. 
Women are regarded as much inferior to men, and 
on them rests a more than double burthen of servi- 
tude and care. Both men and women, however, 
spin yarn of camels' hair, goats' hair, or wool, but 
the women do the weaving. Both are done in the 
open air, and by a very simple process. 



170 



MARRIAGE CEREMONY. 



Polygamy exists among the Arabs as well as 
other Mohammedan nations. In general, however, 
they are content with one wife, and very rarely 
follow the Koran so far as to take four. One reason 
is, the expense attending, and another the family 
broils like to rise out of it. In courtship, the Bedoins 
often display much gallantry, as the constraints to 
which their women are subjected do not wholly pre- 
vent intrigues. The pastoral life is favorable to 
forming acquaintances. There are occasions, too, 
when the youth of both sexes mingle in parties to 
sing and dance, in the open space, before and behind 
the tents. 

The marriage ceremony, though differing in vari- 
ous tribes, is generally very simple. Negotiations 
commence with the father of the maiden, who if 
pleased, consults his daughter, and if the consent is 
gained, the match is formed. The marriage-day is 
set, perhaps five or six days after the contract is 
made. On that day, the bridegroom comes to the 
tent of his betrothed, bearing a lamb in his arms. 
He there cuts the animal's throat before witnesses, 
and as soon as the blood falls upon the ground, the 
marriage is regarded as completed. All the guests 
present must eat bread and meat. This is a cir- 
cumstance indispensably necessary on such occa- 
sions. Among the Bedoins of Sinai, the father of the 
bride gives the bridegroom a twig of a tree, or some- 
thing green, which he sticks in his cap, and wears 
for three days to show that he has taken a virgin in 
matrimony. Among the tribes of the Tawarah, the 
maiden is seldom made acquainted with the change 
that is about to take place in her condition. On re- 



MARRIAGE CEREMONY. 171 

turning at evening with the flock, she is met at a 
short distance from the camp by her future spouse 
and two of his young friends. They suddenly seize 
her and carry her to her father's tent. If she enter- 
tain any suspicion of their intention, she defends 
herself with stones, pelting her assailants, though 
she has no dislike to her lover. The more she 
struggles, bites, kicks, cries, and strikes, the more 
she is applauded ever after by her companions. If 
she can escape she will, and it may be some time 
before the bridegroom can find her. 

When brought to her father's tent, she is placed in 
the women's apartment, where one of the young men 
immediately throws over her an abba, in the name 
of" her future husband. Often this is the first time 
she learns who the person is to whom she is betroth- 
ed. She is then dressed by her mother and female 
friends, in her wedding-suit, which is provided by the 
bridegroom. Mounted next on a camel, which is 
ornamented with tassels and shreds of cloth, she is 
conducted, still screaming and struggling in the most 
unruly manner, three times round the tent, while her 
companions utter loud acclamations. If the husband 
belong to a distant camp, the women accompany 
her, and during the procession, decency obliges her 
to cry and sob most bitterly.* 

If the bride be a widow, or a divorced woman, the 
wedding is attended with little ceremony or rejoic- 
ing. This sort of marriage is always considered of 
ill omen. No resistance is made, no feasts take 
place, as no guest will eat of the nuptial bread. 
For thirty days the husband will not taste of provi- 

* Crichton- 



172 



DIVORCES. 



sions belonging to his wife, and visitors who come to 
drink coffee, bring their own cups. To touch any 
thing belonging to the newly-married widow, would 
be considered the sure road to evil fortune. The 
bride, on this occasion, is decked out in the finest 
attire, and figures of flowers, trees, &c, are painted 
on her body. 

Instead of receiving a marriage-portion the hus- 
band invariably pays for his wife. The sum, how- 
ever, varies, according to rank and circumstances. 
Among the Tawarah, it is from one hundred to two 
hundred piastres,* and sometimes six hundred, if the 
girl be handsome and well connected. In the Holy 
Land, young men obtain their master's daughters by 
serving a number of years. Part of the sum is paid 
down, and the rest is left standing over as a kind of 
debt, or as a security in case of divorce. 

Marriage has but a slender hold on the Arabs, and 
may be dissolved, at the pleasure of the husband, on 
a slight occasion. This facility of separation affects 
morality, though it may reflect no dishonor on the 
woman or her family. She may be divorced three 
or four times, and yet be free from any stain on her 
character. It is not uncommon for a Bedoin, before 
he attains the age of forty, to have had a dozen 
wives. If the woman depart of her own will, she 
receives nothing, and even forfeits the unpaid por- 
tion otherwise due to her father. But if she is turn- 
ed away without any valid proof of misconduct, she 
is entitled to a small sum of money, a camel, a goat, 
a copper-boiler, and hand-mill, with some other ar- 
ticles of kitchen furniture. This acts, in some de- 

* One hundred piastres is little less than five dollars of our currency. 



ARAB SALUTATIONS. 



173 



gree, as a check on the evil of hasty divorces. The 
law, also, allows females a kind of divorce. If mis- 
treated, or not happy, she may fly to the tent of her 
father, and the husband has no right to reclaim her. 

The children are brought up in the most hardy- 
manner. The name is immediately given on the 
birth, and at the age of six or seven, the males are 
circumcised. This is always celebrated with feast- 
ing and rejoicing. 

Funerals in iVrabia Petraea are attended with 
some rather ludicrous ceremonies. Some tribes 
bury the dead man with his sword, turban, and gir- 
dle. Linen being scarce among the Bedoins, they 
sometimes wrap the body in an abba, which serves 
as a winding sheet. Women, but not men, wear 
mourning. Females are hired on these occasions, to 
howl in the most heartrending accents, for which 
they are paid a small sum by the hour. The female 
relatives of the family accompany the bier, dressed 
in black; and, as a farther demonstration of their 
grief, stain their hands and feet blue, which they 
suffer to remain eight days. During that whole 
time they abstain from milk, alleging that its white 
color ill accords with the gloom of their minds.* 

Notwithstanding the rude appearance of the Be- 
doins, they have among them principles of etiquette, 
to which they adhere with rigid precision. Their 
usual salutation is " Salaam eleikum" — peace be with 
you. I never saw them shake hands on meeting ; 
but in room of this, they extend their right hands 
and bring the palms of them gently together, twice. 
If they have been separated any considerable time, 

* Crichton. 



174 



ARAB HOSPITALITY. 



they generally kiss each other on both cheeks. I 
remarked that they never smile when giving a salu- 
tation, but always look very grave. If two Arabs 
quarrel, they never use the ill names and scurrilous 
language so prevalent among those of more polished 
nations. Hospitality, among them, is of sacred and 
rigid standing. Though hungry himself, the Bedoin 
always divides his scanty meal with a more hungry 
wanderer. He never eats without inviting all 
around to partake with him. As soon as a stranger 
is seen approaching an encampment, he is reckoned 
the guest of the one who first descries him. So long 
as he remains, his life and property are secure. 
Should a robbery even occur, the host, if he possess 
the means, will make good whatever loss he may 
sustain, while under his protection. Though they 
make it a virtue to rob Frank travellers wherever 
they can meet them unprotected, yet the moment a 
Bedoin has eaten bread and salt with such as guests, 
he will hazard his own life in defence of theirs. 
Scarcely a greater insult can be given to an Arab, 
than to tell him he does not treat his guests well. 

The Arabs may be termed a nation of robbers ; and 
among themselves they attach no disgrace to the 
open profession of brigands. Nay, they consider it 
honorable, and one of the most nattering titles that 
could be conferred on a youthful hero. I recollect 
hearing a young Bedoin of our company, boast of 
an exploit which he and another were engaged in, 
against a neighboring tribe. In one night they suc- 
ceeded in stealing a large number of camels, goats, 
and sheep, which they drove off in triumph. They 
rob wherever they can get the opportunity, except 



LAWS. 



175 



of a guest. A defenceless traveller is waylaid, seiz- 
ed, and stripped ; but his life is not taken, unless he 
resists or sheds the blood of a Bedoin. Instead of 
saying, I robbed a man of this or that article, they 
say, " I gained it." They even pretend to a sort of 
kindred relationship with the victim they plunder. 
"Undress thyself," says the Bedoin to the wayfaring 
stranger, " thy aunt (meaning his wife or mother) is 
without a garment." If they are reproved for their 
depredations, " you forget that I am an Arab," is the 
reply. This, too, is spoken with an air and gesture 
which show how little the impudent robber is affect- 
ed by the opprobrium.* 

If a Bedoin owes another, and refuses to pay, the 
creditor takes two or three men as witnesses of the 
refusal. He then seizes or steals, if he can, a camel 
or something else belonging to the debtor, and de- 
posits it with a third person. This brings the case 
to trial before the judge ; and the debtor forfeits the 
article seized. In their quarrels they avoid beating 
each other with the fist or with a stick. This they 
regard as disreputable, it being the mode of punish- 
ing slaves and children, and a great indignity to a 
man. If it takes place, the sufferer is entitled to 
very high damages. Their code of honor allows 
blows only to be given with a sword or a gun ; and 
by these the sufferer feels himself far less aggrieved. 
In a quarrel of this kind, where swords have been 
used, if the case be brought to trial, a fine is imposed 
upon the party least wounded, large enough to coun- 
terbalance the injury received by the other party. 
Whatever the provocation for the quarrel may have 

* Crichton. 



176 



BEDOINS. 



been, is of no account in the trial. It is always 
taken for granted that nothing can justify such a 
quarrel.* 

The Arab code regulates the revenge for blood, by 
the nicest distinctions. He who sheds blood, owes, 
on that account, blood to the family of the slain per- 
son. This debt may not only be claimed of the 
actual murderer, but from all his relations. In case 
of a slain parent, his lineal descendants, to the fifth 
generation, inherit the duty of avenging his death. 
If one death is simply avenged by another, the ac- 
count is considered settled. But if two of the assas- 
sin's family be killed by the relatives of the deceased, 
the former are bound to retaliate. Though murder 
may be expiated by a fine imposed, it remains with 
the near relatives of the slain person, to accept or 
reject the penalty. If the offer is deemed satisfac- 
tory, the homicide and all his kin included in the 
law of vengeance, make their escape to some 
friendly tribe. A sacred custom allows the fugitives 
three days and four hours to accomplish this, during 
which time their enemies abstain from pursuit. But 
they may return again, if they choose, as soon as a 
reconciliation can be effected. 

As the Bedoins are divided up into petty tribes, 
liable to frequent hostilities with each other, debts 
of blood are frequently incurred. When a slaughter 
occurs, accompanied with treachery or contrary to 
the law of nations, a debt of blood is always the 
consequence. When a tribe kills their enemies 
while they lay wounded on the field, the adversary 
retaliates by killing double the number with the same 

* Robinson. 



SOCIAL CONDITION. 



177 



circumstances of cruelty. However revolting this 
policy may appear, an Arab would be censured were 
he not to follow the general practice. 

The amusements of the Bedoins are few. They 
have few games, and these are mostly of the athletic 
kind. They have songs and dances ; but the former 
are very harsh and unmusical, and the latter desti- 
tute of both dexterity and gracefulness. There is a 
species of song said to be common all over the desert, 
in which the youth of both sexes take part. This is 
accompanied by clapping of hands and various mo- 
tions of the body. It is called the mesamer. We 
had a specimen of this kind of singing in Tueileb's 
encampment, described in another chapter. The 
verses are often composed extempore, and may re- 
late to any circumstance which may have called for 
the singing. They have also war-songs and war- 
dances. One of these I shall describe in its proper 
place, as I saw it in the Holy Land. They have also 
chants to enliven their camels. These are loud, harsh, 
and to me very unmusical. They think at least their 
camels never move with so much ease as when they 
hear their masters sing. The most common enter- 
tainment among the Bedoins is, the reciting of stories 
or tales, after the manner of the Arabian Nights. 

All the Bedoins, throughout Arabia, are entirely 
ignorant of letters. I saw but one Bedoin sheik who 
could read and write, and he lived near Bethlehem, 
in the Holy Land. He was one who accompanied 
us to the Dead Sea and the Jordan. Efforts have 
been made to introduce science among them; but 
still these warlike tribes remain a most illiterate 
race. Illiterate as they are, it may well be sup- 

8* 



178 



BEDOIN REMARK. 



posed that they are extremely superstitious. Astro- 
logy is cultivated among them, and held in high 
repute. The}' never conclude a weighty bargain, or 
enter upon an important undertaking, without first 
consulting the stars. Of the mechanical arts they 
are extremely ignorant. They know little else than 
tanning leather and weaving coarse fabrics. They 
have a few blacksmiths and saddlers ; but all handi- 
craft occupations are considered degrading. 

Although the Bedoins are professedly Mohamme- 
dans, the precepts of the Koran sit very loosely on 
them, and its ceremonies are but little practised by 
them. If Mohammedans pray at all, they are sure 
to pray to be seen of men. While at Akabah, I saw 
some of the Bedoins around that place occasionally 
engaged in their devotions; but I did not see one of 
the Arabs who accompanied us pray. Some of the 
Bedoins think the religion of Mohamet could never 
have been intended for them. " In the desert we 
have no water," say they ; " how, then, could we 
make the prescribed ablutions ? We have no money ; 
and why should we bestow alms ? Why should we 
fast in the Ramadan, since the whole year is one 
continual abstinence ? And if God be present every 
where, why should we go to Mecca to adore him ? " 
Finally, the whole of their social and moral economy 
strikingly illustrate prophetic truth : " Ishmael shall 
be a wild man, whose hand is against every man, 
and every man's hand against him." Enemies alike 
to industry and the arts, they dwell without bolts or 
bars, the free, wandering denizens of the desert. 
Opposed to the luxuries and refinement of civilized 
life, these rude barbarians present the phenomenon 



SHEIK HASSEIN 



179 



of a people living in a state of nature, unsubdued 
and unchanged ; and yet, in their acknowledgment 
of the true God, still preserving evidence of their 
lineage as the children of Abraham. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Arrival of Sheik Hassein and Company— Plain Dealing with a Governor 
— Land of Idumea — Prophecy concerning Idumea — Dreary Scenery- 
Mount Seir — Desert of Zin — Kadesh — A Waren — A Chase, but no 
Battle — Nights in Arabia — An Eclipse — Arab Notions — Ascent of Mount 
Hor — Aaron's Tomb — View from the Top of Mount Hor — Arrival at 
Waddy Mousa — Lodgings in a Tomb. 

On the morning of the 24th, Sheik Hassein and his 
men came to our tent, prepared to convey us on our 
journey. They had encamped over night but a short 
distance from us. In all, they were twenty-five in 
number, and had twenty-seven camels and two 
horses. Hassein was a small, thin, wiry-looking 
man, of dark visage, aquiline nose, with a most rest- 
less and roguish pair of eyes. His countenance, 
upon the whole, was rather handsome for an Arab ; 
and his age I should judge to be about fifty-five. 
He had on a striped silk dress, a well-arranged tur- 
ban, red leggins, and yellow boots. A sword hung 
by his side, and a brace of Turkish pistols were ad- 
justed in his belt. His countenance was grave, and 
his first look at us seemed inquisitive and searching. 
He had with him his son Mahomet, his brother Selim, 
and Sheik Magabel, the latter of the Waddy Mousa 
tribe. Mahomet was a fine, sprightly-looking lad, 
of about fifteen, of fairer complexion and more open 



180 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 



countenance than his father. He carried a sword 
in his belt, and a double-barrel gun on his shoulder. 
Selim was also a sheik of inferior grade, but wore a 
milder and more benevolent countenance than that 
of his brother Hassein. Sheik Magabel was an old 
man of about seventy, with a dull countenance, in- 
dicative of neither courage, resolution, nor energy 
His whole appearance was rather superannuated. 
But as he was the senior sheik of the tribe inhabit- 
ing around the ruins of Petra, we considered his 
presence of considerable importance, and a pledge 
of some security to us in visiting that place. 

In the contract made with Hassein at Cairo, he 
was to take with him an armed guard of sixteen men 
mounted on dromedaries, besides the necessary men 
and camels to attend and convey us and our baggage. 
On no other condition would he agree to conduct us 
through to Hebron, on account, as he alleged, of the 
lawless state of a large tribe called the Benisakers, 
near whom we should have to pass. This will ac- 
count for the large number of men and camels he 
brought with him. No doubt he was interested in 
the increase of pay for so large a caravan ; but be- 
fore we reached the borders of the Holy Land, we 
were of opinion that our number was none too large. 
The whole company under whom we were now to 
place ourselves for protection, bore a more wild and 
savage appearance than the trusty Tueileb and his 
mild Beni Sayds, with whom we had parted. We 
felt, indeed, that we were strangers among a wild 
and strange-looking people. 

For about one hour all was bustle in arranging 
baggage on the different camels designed to convey 



GOVERNOR OF AKABAH. 



181 



loads. In the midst of our attention to this business, 
the little governor of Akabah came out to inform us 
that it was customary for gentlemen, on leaving that 
place, to make a present in money to each officer of 
the fortress. During our stay at Akabah we had 
encamped outside the walls, and lodged in our own 
tent. We had paid for a guard every night. In 
addition to this, we" had paid for everything and 
every kind of service we had received while in the 
place, even to the water we had used from the for- 
tress. All this, by the way, had amounted to a con- 
siderable little sum. Now with this last piece of 
mean extortion we positively refused to comply. 
Our refusal, too, was made known in terms which, if 
not the most conciliatory, were perfectly independent. 
The little governor showed anger, and declared we 
might go, but he would give us no official protection. 
If we would give the officers a present in money, he 
would give us a letter to the governor of Hebron, 
which would require Hassein to bring back to him a 
written certificate of our safe arrival there. We 
told him we had the pacha's firman, and needed no 
letter from him ; and farther assured him that we 
should write to the American consul at Cairo, and 
have the conduct of the governor of Akabah report- 
ed to the pacha. At this he J *Amed down consider- 
ably; on which we took our leave of him, desiring 
never to see his face again. All travellers who had 
preceded us spoke of this governor as a consummate 
scoundrel ; and from what we saw of him, we saw 
no cause to lessen the charge. He will sponge out 
of travellers who come that way all the money he 
can get, 



182 



IDUMEA. 



At about 11, a. m., we took up our line of inarch, 
our course lying up the great valley of Arabah, ex- 
tending northerly from the Gulf of Akabah, towards 
the Dead Sea. The south part of this valley is 
about four miles wide. Farther north it widens to 
the extent of eight miles. It is most generally sup- 
posed that, prior to the destruction of Sodom and 
Gomorrah, the river Jordan flowed through the 
entire length of this valley, and finally emptied itself 
into the Gulf of Akabah. From the appearance of 
the valley of Arabah, the conclusion would be 
reasonable, as it bears strong marks of having once 
been the bed of a river. 

We were now advancing into the doomed and ac- 
cursed land of Edom. It was given to Esau as "the 
fatness of the earth but now it lay stretched out 
before us, a barren, sterile waste, the theatre of awful 
prophetic fulfilment written upon its parched surface 
as with the finger of the Almighty. " For my sword 
shall be bathed in heaven : behold, it shall come down 
upon Idumea, and upon the people of my curse, to 
judgment. From generation to generation it shall lie 
waste ; none shall pass through it forever and ever. 
But the cormorant and the bittern shall possess it ; 
the owl, also, and the raven shall dwell in it; and he 
shall stretch out up<~> it the line of confusion and 
the stones of emptiness. They shall call the nobles 
thereof to the kingdom, but none shall be there, and 
all her princes shall be nothing. And thorns shall 
come up in her palaces, and nettles and brambles in 
the fortresses thereof: and it shall be a habitation 
for dragons, and a court for owls. The wild beasts 
of the desert shall also meet with the wild beasts of 



VALLEY OF ARABAH. 



183 



the island, and the satyr shall cry to his fellow : the 
screech-owl also shall rest there, and find for herself 
a place of rest. There shall the great owl make 
her nest, and lay, and hatch, and gather under her 
shadow : there shall the vultures also be gathered, 
every one with her mate. Seek ye out the book of 
the Lord, and read: no one of these shall fail, none 
shall want her mate : for my mouth it hath com- 
manded, and his Spirit it hath gathered them. And 
he hath cast the lot for them, and his hand hath 
divided it unto them by line : they shall possess it 
forever ; from generation to generation shall they 
dwell therein." — Isaiah, xxxiv. 

On entering the valley of Arabah, every thing bore 
a most withered and desolate appearance. Ridges 
of light, drifting sand, were scattered before us as 
far as the eye could stretch. On our right were 
dark mountains of bare granite, towering in most 
desolate majesty. Not a tree, shrub, blade of grass, 
or any species" of vegetable life whatever, spotted 
their dark, massive sides or lofty summits. For 
some miles the valley seemed impregnated with 
salt ; but after advancing a considerable distance 
north, there was a faint appearance of vegetation. 
On the west side of the valley the mountains are of 
purely sandstone formation, while on the east they 
are uniformly of the red granite. Those on the 
west, have, in many places, been worn into ever} 7 fan- 
ciful shape, and are entirely bare of vegetable life. 
Encamped at 4, p.m., with the assurance that we 
should reach the ruins of Petra in three days more. 

Jan. 25. Shortly after starting this morning, three 
beautiful gazelles were seen a short distance from 



184 



DESERT OF ZIN. 



us, running toward the mountain on our right. The 
valley, as we proceeded, still exhibited a display of 
barren sand, with slight patches of herbage, and a 
few shrubs, mostly of the thorn species. The range 
of mountains called by the Arabs, Gibbel Shera, and 
GibBel Hesma, bounded the valley on the east. 
These constitute the Mount Seir of Scripture. The 
first mention of Mount Seir is in the fourteenth 
chapter of Genesis, when it was inhabited by the 
Horim, one of the nations whose territory was 
ravaged by Chederlaomer and his allies. After the 
children of Esau had extirpated the original inhab- 
itants, it took the name of the land of Edom. At 
first this comprehended the district of Mount Seir 
only. It afterwards extended progressively with 
the rising power of the Edomites, till it reached to 
Ezion-geber, which, in the time of Solomon, we find 
included in the land of Edom. 

The northern part of the valley of Arabah is gen- 
erally believed to be the Desert of Zin, in which the 
Israelites were encamped at Kadesh, when they 
applied to the king of Edom for permission to pass 
through his country. When their request was posi- 
tively refused by the king of Edom, they appear to 
have fallen back "by way of the plain before Elath," 
now Akabah. There they turned round the southern 
extremity of the mountains, and thence proceeded 
northward along the east ern boundary of Mount Seir. 

Nothing appears to be known, though much is 
conjectured respecting the situation of Kadesh. It is 
supposed that there were two places of that name ; 
Kadesh Barnea, from whence the spies were sent, 
and the Kadesh already referred to. The former is 



A CHASE BUT NO BATTLE. 



185 



placed somewhere in the Desert of Paran, on the 
southern boundary of Palestine, and the other be- 
tween the head of the Gulf of Akabah and Mount 
Hor, because the Israelites are said to have "moved 
from Ezion-geber and pitched in the Desert of Zin, 
which is Kadesh ; " and then to have " moved from 
Kadesb and pitched in Mount Hor." The supposition 
that the Kadesh mentioned in Numbers, xx. 1, was 
the same with Kadesh Barnea, appears to receive 
some confirmation from the reason assigned for King 
Arad, the Canaanite, fighting against Israel. He had 
" heard tell that Israel came by the way of the spies" 

Jan. 26. Shortly after starting this morning, one of 
our men shot an animal which appeared like a small 
alligator. It was about eighteen inches in length. 
The Arabs called it a thup, but I perceive by Profes- 
sor Robinson, that the proper name is waren. They 
are numerous in some parts of the desert, and bur- 
row in the ground. 

At about two o'clock, p.m., all of a sudden Hassein 
pointed to the mountain, on the west side of the 
valley, at the same time calling out earnestly to his 
men. All was in Arabic, and we could not readily 
apprehend the meaning. Soon the Arabs began to 
jump from their camels, catch their guns and run in 
that direction. These were followed by the sheiks 
and other men on camels. We now saw they were 
giving chase to several Arabs, who were running up 
the mountain. For a while, the display was fine, and 
the race well matched. At length they came upon 
the fugitive party. After a loud talk of some min- 
utes, what we had feared would be a bloody fray, 
ended peaceably. Hassein was continually suspect- 



186 



MOUNT HOR. 



ing trouble from the Benisaker tribe, and was on the 
lookout. Seeing these straggling Arabs on the side 
of the mountain, he had suspicion that they were of 
that tribe. There might be an armed party not far 
distant, or these might be spies to carry intelligence 
to the tribe of our being in the country. In either 
case, his intention was to arrest them, and keep them 
with him till after we had passed their border. They 
proved, however, to be friendly Alloeens, and, con- 
sequently, were permitted to go on their way. 

Mo ant Hor, with Aaron's tomb on its top, had been 
in sight nearly the whole day. Late in the day we 
turned east into a valle} r called Waddy Megurgader, 
which divides the range of Mount Seir. Here we 
encamped at the foot of the mountains that environ 
the ancient city of Petra, and in sight of Mount Hor. 

After partaking of our evening meal, as usual, we 
walked out to observe the beauty of the night. 
There was not a single speck of clouds in the hea- 
vens. Those who have only seen the inky skies 
of our own land, can scarcely imagine how beauti- 
ful are the nights in Arabia. The innumerable hosts 
of stars appear not as if sparkling on the concave 
surface of the heavens, but floating at different and 
immeasurable distances, through the infinite ether. 
The milky -way hangs like a luminous wreath across 
the heavens, and the moon, far more resplendent 
than she appears in our climate, " rolls through the 
dark-blue depths." Here, how impressively are de- 
monstrated the being, and power, and majesty of the 
great Creator. " The heavens declare the glory of 
God," no less than they " show his handiwork." 

Gazing on this countless assemblage of worlds 



AN ECLIPSE. 



187 



and suns, the centres round which myriads of unseen 
worlds are unceasingly wheeling their appointed 
revolutions, the mind is overwhelmed in attempting 
to form any conception of the magnitude and splen- 
dor of the universe. Into what a speck does our 
earth sink, when imagination roams among the vast 
varieties of worlds that float in the broad expanse 
of immensity. Strange it seems, to the feebleness I 
of our limited powers, that this little remote spot in 
creation, should hold so important a place in the I 
councils of eternity as Revelation tells us it unques- 
tionably does ! And yet to conceive of the earth and I 
of the human race as too insignificant to occupy any J 
portion of the regard of the Creator of such a uni- 
verse, is but false humility, and a most perilous 
error. With God, there is neither vastness nor in- j 
significance, sublimity nor meanness, remoteness nor | 
proximity of space or time, but one eternal present. 

Casting my eyes over the face of the bright, full 
moon, I perceived that an eclipse was just coming 
upon it. What astronomer had calculated this 
eclipse for Arabia ? It was, indeed, a privilege to 
witness one in the bright sky that overspreads the 
lonely mountains of Seir. Soon we were seated in 
a circle, with our Arabs round their watch-fire, in- 
quiring of them their views of an eclipse, and ex- 
plaining to them ours. They appeared to have no 
idea of its real cause, regarding it as a judgment 
from God ; a sign of a bad season, and little camel- 
feed. When we undertook to explain to them the 
theory of the earth being round, turning over every 
day, and sometimes getting between the sun and 
moon, they seemed to look upon us as telling very 



188 



ascent to aaron's tomb. 



strange tales. The eclipse was nearly total. I gazed 
on it with interest, and then eyed the strange scene 
around me. The wild, lonely landscape of rock and 
sand — the camels kneeling around the bivouac — the 
wild faces of the Arabs, reflecting the red light of 
the fire round which they were seated — their wild 
voices and strange guttural language, all combined 
to produce an effect so startling, that I felt that till 
then, I had never been thoroughly sensible of our 
complete separation from the civilized world. 

Jan. 27. A considerable increase of vegetation 
was visible as we advanced forward this morning. 
In some places the oleander shrub was abundant and 
of luxuriant growth. One of our men shot a fine 
hare, for which we paid him ten piastres. At 11 
o'clock, a.m., arriving at the valley of Abushaba, 
Mount Hor appeared but a short distance to our left, 
towering in lonely majesty above every thing around 
it. Here we concluded to leave our caravan, go on 
foot, and make an ascent to Aaron's tomb, on the 
top of that mountain. True, we were aware that 
we should have a long and laborious walk — should 
have some tall mountains to cross on our way, but, 
by taking this course, we should be enabled to as- 
cend Mount Hor and arrive at the ruins of Petra 
nearly as soon as our caravan. This would be 
gaining so much time in our examinations, and our 
stay in Waddy Mousa must necessarily be limited 
to a short time at most ; indeed, we might be driven 
out very abruptly by the Arabs, as all other travel- 
lers had been. Taking our interpreter and four of 
our Arabs with us, we commenced our toilsome 
walk. Passing over rocky eminences, and through 



aaron's tomb. 



189 



several precipitous ravines, obstructed much with 
mountain wrack, we at length descended on an ex- 
tended slope, which brought Mount Hor in full 
view, directly to our left. From this slope we turn- 
ed north, crossed a steep and difficult ravine, and 
commenced the ascent of Mount Hor, on its south 
side. Our way led over beds of sharp flint stones, 
cutting and unpleasant to the feet. When about 
half-way up, we struck a path which had been con- 
structed by the Arabs, for the benefit of Moham- 
medan pilgrims, who visit Aaron's tomb in great 
numbers, to offer sacrifices. This path, at length, 
brought us to a space of table-rock, above which 
the remaining part of Mount Hor presented an almost 
perpendicular front. Feeling ourselves much fa- 
tigued, we here rested for a few minutes. On 
starting again, our guides conducted us round to the 
north side of the mountain. Here was an altar on 
which Mohammedan pilgrims always sacrifice a 
sheep before they ascend to the tomb. A small 
hollow in a table-rock near by, is called Aaron's 
basin. Passing a little farther east, we came to an 
arch covering a pool, in which there was some 
clear water. Here Mohammedans perform ablution 
before ascending further. This stands at the foot of 
a narrow, steep defile. From this pool, we found 
the remaining ascent, about five hundred feet, steep 
and laborious ; part of which has rude steps formed 
of stones placed together. 

On the top, which is an area of about sixty feet 
square, is a low stone building of about thirty feet 
on a side, and surmounted by a dome. This is I 
called Aaron's tomb. The entrance is near the 



190 



ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB. 



north-west corner, and a few feet from the door, 
inside, is a tomb-stone, in form similar to the oblong 
slabs seen in our church-yards, but larger and 
higher. The top is rather larger than the bottom, 
and over it was placed a pall of faded red cotton, in 
shreds and patches. The pall bore marks of blood, 
and near it was a stone altar, on which sacrifices 
are offered. The stone was blackened with smoke, 
and stains of blood and fragments of fuel were still 
around it. A few ostrich eggs and sea-shells were 
suspended in different places, and the rest of the 
room was perfectly bare. 

In the north-east corner of the building is a flight 
of stone stairs descending to a vault below. We re- 
quested our Arabs to furnish some kind of light to 
enable us to explore this lower apartment, as all be- 
low was dark. They seemed loth to do it, consider- 
ing, as I inferred that the place was too holy for us 
to enter. We, however, insisted upon it, and finally 
succeeded in getting together a few small, dry 
twigs, which were set on fire by means of powder 
and flint, to make a kind of torch. With this we 
descended into a grotto hewn into the rock, of about 
eight feet wide, twenty long, and seven and a half 
high. At the west end of this grotto, and as near 
as we could judge, directly under the tomb with a 
pall above, were two small iron gates, closing to- 
gether in the centre. These shut directly against a 
small niche in the wall, which is considered by Mo- 
hammedans the real place of Aaron's grave. Our 
light was now nearly burnt out, and was thrown 
upon the ground. An Arab threw upon it a quan- 
tity of small brush, which immediately kindled into 



aaron's death. 



191 



a furious blaze, and very soon the place Decame 
suffocating. We rushed for the stairs, but the Arabs 
were all huddled upon them, and seemed bound 
there as with a strange spell ; for it was not till we 
had stormed and scolded for some little time, that we 
could get them started so as to let us pass up. We, 
indeed, came near suffocating. Here closed our in- 
spection of Aaron's tomb. 

The Scripture account of Aaron's death is — " And 
the children of Israel, even the whole congregation, 
journeyed from Kadesh and came unto Mount Hor. 
And the Lord spake unto Moses and Aaron in Mount 
Hor, by the coast of the land of Edom, saying, Aaron 
shall be gathered unto his people ; for he shall not 
enter into the land which I have given unto the chil- 
dren of Israel, because ye rebelled against my word 
at the water of Meribah. Take Aaron and Eleazer 
his son, and bring them up into Mount Hor ; and 
strip Aaron of his garments and put them upon 
Eleazer his son ; and Aaron shall be gathered unto 
his people and shall die there. And Moses did as 
the Lord commanded ; and they went up into Mount 
Hor in the sight of all the congregation. And Moses 
stripped Aaron of his garments, and put them upon 
Eleazer his son ; and Aaron died there on the top of 
the Mount. And Moses and Eleazer came down 
from the Mount. When all the congregation saw 
that Aaron was dead, they mourned for Aaron thirty 
days, even all the house of Israel." — Numbers, xx. 

That this is the true Mount Hor of the Scriptures, 
I believe is not disputed by any traveller who has 
visited it. Its peculiar adaptation to the display of 
such an event " in the sight of all the congregation," 



192 



VIEW FROM MOUNT HOR. 



is conspicuous to the observer. The top of Mount 
Hor overlooks everything around it for many miles ; 
and hence the view from this eminence is spacious 
and grand. To the south-west, we could see a part 
of the Gulf of Akabah ; directly north lay the Dead 
Sea, spread out to our view nearly its entire length; 
and west of it lay the dark mountains of Judea. 
The valleys of Arabah and El Ghor lay stretched out 
far below us, with mountains towering beyond ; 
while the east and south presented but one sea of 
dark mountain summits, rearing their massy crags 
in battle with the winds and clouds of heaven. All 
presented but one uniform scene of wild and lonely 
desolation. 

We now made our way down through the ravine 
by which we had ascended to the table-rock, at the 
first summit. Passing down a short distance from 
this, we turned in a south-easterly direction, towards- 
a ravine passing along the east side of the mountain. 
Soon we came to a precipice that required the use 
of both hands and feet to secure a safe descent, as 
our way hung over a dark, yawning gulf at our side. 
By clinging firmly with our hands to one crag, we 
were enabled to lower ourselves to another. In this 
way, we made our descent to a more safe and easy 
passage by which, at length, we reached the plain 
below. Our course then bore an easterly direction, 
towards Waddy Mousa. After continuing on about 
two miles, the ruins of Petra, the awfully-devoted 
city of Edom, began to heave in sight. Numerous 
were the tombs we passed by the way, cut in the 
solid rock, on sides of mountains. Some of these 
were situated twenty and thirty feet high, in the 



RUINS OF PETRA 



193 



pc3;pendicular cliff. By our way were two ruined 
palaces or temples, whose fallen pillars and prostrate 
walls barely marked the place where they once 
stood. On the site of one, there was one solitary 
column standing, about twenty feet in height, and 
beautifully wrought, while near by were several 
others fallen and broken. 

Passing over the plains of the ruined city, now 
thickly strewed with the sad relics of former splen- 
dor, we arrived at what is called the Corinthian 
tomb, which had been selected as our place of lodg- 
ing. Our caravan had arrived but a few minutes be- 
fore us. What a thought, reader ! to select a tomb 
for our sleeping place ! 



CHAPTER XIII. 

An Arab Feast — Ruins of Petra — The Khasne — Arab Notions — El Syk 
and the Triumphal Arch — Beautiful Habitation— Tomb with a Greek 
Inscription — The Theatre — Splendid Structures — Tomb with a Latin 
Inscription — El Deir — Excavations in the Rock— Description of the 
Ruined City— Palace of Pharaoh's Daughter — Prophecies concerning 
Petra— Historical Notice of Petra— Its Fate enveloped in Mystery. 

In our contract with Hassein, made at Cairo, we had 
agreed to pay a tribute of four hundred piastres to 
the tribe of Waddy Mousa for the privilege of visit- 
ing the ruins of Petra, and remaining there as long 
as we might choose. On our arrival, it was the busi- 
ness of him and Sheik Magabel, of the Waddy 
Mousa tribe, to keep the Arabs from disturbing us 
during our stay. The plan to accomplish this was 
arranged between them in the following manner. 

9 



194 



AN ARAB FEAST 



Immediately on the arrival of our caravan at the 
ruins of Petra, they both started for the Arab en- 
campment, about two miles distant. A feast, with 
sports, was immediately gotten up among the Be- 
doins at that place to keep them entertained till 
after we should complete our observations ; nothing 
being told them, in the meantime, of our being in 
the valley. The plan succeeded admirably. Scarce- 
ly an Arab of the tribe was seen at the ruins during 
our stay of over two days and a half. In this way, 
we were permitted peaceably to examine every 
thing of interest in the place ; whereas, about all 
other travellers had been forced away before com- 
pleting their observations. It is certainly due to 
Hassein to say, that at Waddy Mousa, he secured 
us every protection we could ask ; nor did he seem 
in the least disposed to hurry us out of the place. 

After a night's rest in the Corinthian tomb, and 
an early breakfast the next morning, we set out to 
inspect the extensive and wonderful ruins, spread 
out in lonely grandeur around us. Passing west to 
the small rivulet that runs through the place, we 
turned to our left and pursued the valley of the 
stream, leading up about south-east. In a little less 
than half a mile, turning by a small point of per- 
pendicular rock to our right, the sight of a most 
beautiful edifice burst upon our view. We stood 
near to it. It is called by the Arabs El Khasne Fa- 
raoun, or " the treasury of Pharoah." At the first 
sight of this wonderful piece of architecture, all 
three of us exclaimed, "O, the beauty!" Mr. B. 
could not, for some time, cease to express his admi- 
ration, declaring that, in all his travels in Europe, 



BEAUTIFUL EDIFICE. 



195 



he had never seen magnificence to compare with 
this. I had seen various engravings of this beautiful 
structure, and had read different descriptions, but 
this was one of the instances where reality far sur- 
passed anticipation. 

The entire edifice, however, owes much of its ef- 
fect to the suddenness with which it bursts upon the 
sight ; from the beauty and freshness of its color, 
and from its fanciful design ; all in strange contrast 
with the loneliness of the place, and the wild, 
weather-beaten crags with which it is surrounded. 
Sheltered in an immense niche in the rock, it has 
been wonderfully preserved from the effects of the 
weather, and now retains the same lustre it bore 
when just finished by the artist. The rock in which 
it is cut, when polished, is of the most beautiful 
colors. It does not present a dead mass of dull red, 
but a variety of bright and living hues, from the 
deepest crimson to the softest pink ; and sometimes 
verging to green, blue, orange, and yellow. All 
these colors intermingle the surface in beautiful 
waves, reflecting all the lustre of the rainbow. The 
beauty of the rock into which they are formed, adds 
vastly to the entire ruins of Petra. It is so unlike 
anything I ever saw anywhere else, that it is im- 
possible to give the reader a perfect idea of it. 

The mountain cliff, at this place, rises in perpen- 
dicular form for over one hundred feet, and it will 
be remembered that this vast edifice is cut in the 
solid rock. Every column, cornice, and indeed every 
portion of it, is in reality part of the rock where 
it stands. In front is a portico of four columns, 
with Corinthian capitals, supporting an entablature, 



196 



MOUNTAIN CLIFF. 



above which is a gable with broad, highly-wrought 
cornices, in the centre of which is an eagle with ex- 
tended wings. The entablature is ornamented with 
vases, connected by festoons of flowers, and the 
summit of the whole is crowned with a large, beau- 
tiful urn. On both sides of the portico are other 
ornaments of various dimensions. The columns 
are about thirty-five feet in height and three in 
diameter. One of these has now fallen and lies 
nearly covered in sand and rubbish. Yet from a 
distance, this missing brother scarcely disfigures the 
edifice. 

The steps up to the portico are broken and over- 
grown with grass and wild flowers. At each end of 
this portico is an excavated chamber of about fif- 
teen feet long by five or six wide. The doors into 
these apartments, as well as that of the large prin- 
cipal room, are beautifully ornamented. The great 
room, is about forty-five feet square, and perhaps 
twenty in height. On three sides of this room are 
doors leading to smaller apartments. The entrance 
in front has a window on each side, which admit 
sufficient light into the large room. The^ small 
rooms adjoining have no light, except what is ad- 
mitted from the large one. All these rooms are 
perfectly plain, though handsomely wrought. On 
the wall of the large room are the names of the 
principal European, and the few American travel- 
lers who have visited the place. Among others, I 
found the names of Mr. and Mrs. J. E. Cooley. This 
lady was a heroine, truly. 

There is nothing in the interior of this structure 
to indicate its having been used as a tomb. From 



ARAB NOTIONS. 



197 



the style of the architecture and the arrangement of 
the rooms, my impression is that it was a temple. 
The Arabs have long supposed that there is abun- 
dance of treasure somewhere concealed among these 
ruins. Having long searched but finding none, they 
suspect it is deposited in the large urn that sur- 
mounts the Khasne. This is placed at a distance of 
seventy-five feet from the ground, and is guarded by 
heavy projecting rock above it. As they have no 
means of either ascent or descent to it, many a shot 
is fired at this urn with the hope of shattering it to 
pieces and bringing down its golden contents. It 
bears ample evidence of numerous bullet marks. 
The Arabs have strong suspicion, too, that Frank 
travellers come here to search for hidden treasure, 
and that their peculiar skill enables them to find 
much of it. Hence their jealousy of visits to the 
place, and their high demands of tribute. The Arab 
can scarcely imagine that travellers come a vast 
distance for the mere purpose of inspecting ruins 
which himself despises. In front of the Khasne is an 
area of about half an acre which is thickly grown 
up with oleander, wild fig, and other shrubbery. 

Nearly in front of this temple, the pride and glory 
of Petra, is a narrow passage through the cliff called 
El Syk, leading off in a south-east direction. This 
valley is but a few feet wide, and the high cliffs on 
each side, look very much as though they had been 
thrown apart by some convulsion in nature. A small 
stream gushes through the valley, and in some places 
entirely covers its bed. In passing up it, we occa- 
sionally mounted the backs of our Arabs instead of 
wading the stream. About half a mile distant, we 



198 



TRIUMPHAL ARCH. 



came to a triumphal arch, thrown across its top. 
The ravine is about twenty-five feet wide at this 
place, and the centre of the arch is about fifty feet 
above the bed of the stream. The sides of the rock, 
directly under the arch, are polished smooth. The 
arch is constructed of thirty-four layers of stone. 
Some have supposed that this arch was in reality a 
bridge to cross from one cliff to another. Laborde, 
however, found means to ascend to it, and states 
that he found it to be nothing more than a barfc arch. 
We went no farther up this valley, but learned that 
it forms a clear road out from Waddy Mousa. In 
the days of Petra's glory, it was probably the only 
open pass to and from the city, and the reader can 
judge how easily this could be defended, or even 
closed. All along the sides of this valley are the 
open doors of tombs cut in the perpendicular cliff*. 

Returning the way we came, near the entrance of 
this valley, to that of the Khasne, we ascended a 
flight of stone steps. These led us to an excavated 
room, about thirty feet square. Around three sides 
was a stone bench, one foot high and about three 
broad, in the form of a divan. Opposite the entrance 
were several small apartments, with partition walls 
between them, like stalls in a stable. These had 
probably been sleeping apartments. The whole 
bore the appearance of a dwelling ; perhaps that of 
some rich Edomite. The front was beautifully 
polished, and showed all the variety of colors that 
adorn the rock in which it was cut. In front was a 
large table-rock, forming a sort of court for the ex- 
cavated dwelling. From everything connected with 
this habitation, evidently it had been the dwelling of 



GREEK INSCRIPTION. 



199 



one who strutted out his brief day among the wealthy 
of Petra. 

On the opposite side of the valley, and a little fur- 
ther down, is an elegantly-constructed tomb, with an 
inscription in Greek characters over the door. The 
inscription, however, from its worn and mutilated 
state, cannot be deciphered with any degree of ac- 
curacy. This tomb had in it several pits, like graves, 
to place the dead. A little further down, on the op- 
posite side, is a large and highly-garnished tomb. 
In it were eighteen pits to place the dead, all except 
two of a size to admit a common coffin. One was 
sufficiently large to admit two abreast, and the other 
was too small for a grown person. This was only 
partly filled, and by sounding it with my cane it ap- 
peared to be hollow below. We requested our Arabs 
to examine it, but they refused, and motioned for us 
to leave it. A pit, next to this, had in it some pieces 
of bones visible ; all were partly filled with earth. 

Leaving this, and passing a large number of tombs 
on both sides of the valley, we at length arrived at 
the theatre. This is situated on the west side of the 
valley, and is constructed in the very bosom of the 
mountain. The pillars in front have fallen, but the 
seats, forming a semicircle, and rising in succession 
back, are still in a very perfect state of preservation. 
They are cut in the solid rock, and are thirty-three 
in number. At the bottom of the slope of seats the 
diameter of the theatre is forty paces, or about one 
hundred and twenty feet. The seats must be suffi- 
cient for over three, thousand people. Above the 
highest tier there is a sort of corridor, in which there 
are several doors leading to small excavated cham- 



200 



THEATRE. 



bers. Above this, the rock rises to a sufficient height 
to have shaded the whole audience from the sun. 
Nothing remains of the stage, which had probably 
been a loose structure. What a scene for sober re- 
flection was here before me ! Where now are the 
giddy multitudes that once thronged this place of 
recreation and pleasure. Once these seats were 
filled with the young, the high-born, the beautiful, 
the gay, and the brave. Often has this area rung 
with shouts of applause over some favorite actor. 
Where is that actor, and where his auditors now ? 
Gone ! all gone ! centuries ago, to silence and to dust. 
Even the neighboring tombs, in which their bodies 
may have reposed for a while, no longer contain 
them. The spoiler has entered there, and the dust 
of this numerous dead has been thrown forth to 
mingle with the winds of heaven. Surely "man, 
at his best estate, is altogether vanity ! " 

On the opposite side of the valley, at this place, 
the mountain falls back and runs a north-easterly 
direction, girting the side of the plain on which the 
city mainly stood. Along that range are several 
structures which, if not equal in beauty to the 
Khasne, are scarcely inferior in size. The name of 
tombs has most generally been applied to this range. 
Among such a variety of forms and dimensions, it is 
sometimes exceedingly difficult to designate the habi- 
tations of the living from the chambers of the dead. 
Some of these, no doubt, are properly tombs, and 
others, I cannot but think, were temples and dwell- 
ings. Far up the sloping rock, and cut in the per- 
pendicular cliff, is a structure of large and splendid 
dimensions. The sculpture on its front is exceeding- 



TOMBS. 



201 



ly beautiful, and like the Khasne, it is surmounted 
by a large urn. It contains but one chamber, about 
forty feet square and twenty feet high. To me, this 
edifice had the appearance of some kind of a temple. 
In the same range is what is most generally called 
the Corinthian tomb. In this we lodged during our 
stay. I see no reason, however, for calling it a tomb. 
Its front is exquisitely sculptured, exhibiting two 
stories, with eight relief Corinthian columns. A 
flight of steps, now considerably broken, leads to the 
entrance, on each side of which is a window. The 
chamber is about forty feet square and twenty high. 
On the side opposite the door, is a row of recesses 
with standing walls between them, similar to stalls 
in a stable. These may have been sleeping apart- 
ments, and not depositories of the dead, as some 
have supposed. In the same vicinity, there are a 
number of excavated structures, very similar to this, 
though none equal in beauty. 

North-east of the Corinthian habitation some for- 
ty or fifty rods, this range terminates abruptly by a 
small valley passing off a short distance into the 
rock. Directly at the end of the range, is a splendid 
wrought tomb with a Latin inscription, but so effaced 
as to render it impossible to make out its full import. 
It bears the name of " Quintus Florentinus, gover- 
nor of Palestine, who died in Petra, about a. d. 160." 
From this place the sides of the short valley are 
filled with excavated tombs. To the north-east are 
a number of irregular ranges of lower cliff, filled 
with excavations of various sizes and dimensions. 
A number of these, I should think, had been used 
for dwellings. 

9* 



202 



EL DEIR. 



One of the very extraordinary monuments of Pe- 
tra, is that called by the Arabs El Deir, or " the 
convent." Nothing can awaken a more striking 
idea of the indefatigable labor of the ancient in- 
habitants of Petra, than the access to this temple. 
We entered one of the narrow ravines at the west- 
ern end of the valley, so choked up with masses of 
fallen rock, and overgrown with oleander and wild 
fig, that we could have proceeded but little way 
without the assistance of our guides. They led the * 
way, scrambling over the rocks and pushing through 
the thickets. At length we struck upon an extra- 
ordinary path, by which human industry has worked 
its way to a place otherwise inaccessible to all but 
the eagles, vultures, and partridges that abound in 
the region. 

A succession of terraces have been cut along the 
face of the rock, from each of which an ascent is 
made by a flight of stone steps to the next. One of 
these flights of steps extends over a space of more 
than a thousand feet. The wild., naked rocks rose 
high above our heads, and fearful abysses yawned 
beneath us, as we ascended this singular path. The 
silence was broken only by our own voices, except 
that one of our Arabs discharged his match-lock gun 
at a partridge without bringing down the bird. I 
could not but think that a single traveller here, 
would be too much in the power of villanous guides. 
A small push might precipitate him into one of these 
gloomy chasms, and the manner of his death remain 
forever undiscovered. We had no serious cause, 
however, to apprehend treachery, as we had none 
but a few of our Alloeens with us. 



TEMPLE. 



203 



The ascent terminates at a small level area, sur- 
rounded by high rocks, and at a great height above 
the ancient city. At one side stands the temple 
called El Deir, sculptured in the cliff. From its 
sheltered position, it is in very perfect preservation, 
with the exception of the steps up to the entrance. 
If we had not already seen the Khasne, we should 
have been more forcibly struck with the beauty of 
this edifice. It is considerably like that structure, 
though less fancifully ornamented, but of gigantic 
proportions. The idea of sculpturing an entire tem- 
ple, of such enormous dimensions, from the solid rock, 
would appear only to belong to a race of giants. 

It contains but one apartment, about fifty feet 
square and perhaps twenty in height. Directly op- 
posite the door is an arch setting back in the wall, 
containing an altar three feet high, six wide, and 
twelve long. On the front side of the altar, are two 
flights of four steps each, and on the wall, directly 
back, a Greek cross has-been painted, and may still 
be distinctly traced. It is very probable that this 
temple may at one period have been used by Chris- 
tians as a place of worship. 

Opposite the valley from El Deir, is a large ex- 
cavated chamber, the entrance of which is about 
twelve or fifteen feet above the level of the valley 
itself. The rock, in front of the excavation, extends 
about twenty feet forwards, forming a terrace, along 
the edge of which are the bases of a colonnade. At 
the extremity of the apartment is a niche, with 
pilasters on each side, very neatly carved. The ex- 
cavated chamber appears to have been the adytum 
of a small temple which was built in front of it.* 

* Kinnear. 



204 



EXCAVATIONS. 



The western wall of cliffs are higher than those on 
the east side of the valley. These cliffs, too, are full 
of tombs, and some of them high up in the rock : but 
the excavations on this side are inferior in dimen- 
sions and splendour, to those on the east side. Fi- 
nally, we did not see a cliff of any magnitude within 
two miles of the valley, but was perforated with 
works of art. Indeed, the immense number of exca- 
vations in and around Petra, are as wonderful as the 
size and magnificence of some of them. Those al- 
ready found, have been estimated by one traveller at 
not less than six hundred in number ; and perhaps 
there may be others of the most interesting class, 
which have not yet been found by any modern tra- 
veller. 

Having given an imperfect description of struc- 
tures around it, I now come to the plain itself on 
which the principal part of the city once stood. 
This forms an area of about two miles in circumfer- 
ence. A small brook runs through it in a westerly 
direction. The banks ascending back each way 
from the brook, still retain the terraces on which 
buildings once stood. But the work of destruction 
was complete. The whole plain is covered with 
mounds of ruins. Broken columns, disfigured capi- 
tals; and highly- wrought cornices, are thickly min- 
gled with the other fragments of this ill-fated city. 
The whole field presents but one entire mass of 
ruins. On the rocky bank overhanging the southern 
side of the stream, are the remains of a temple of 
large dimensions. No part of the building remains 
standing ; but the basis of a colonnade along the 
front of the rocky platform, shows the extent of the 



RUINS, 



205 



edifice. Fragments of the pillars are thrown con- 
fusedly among the mass of ruins. 

A little farther west, the understructure of a bridge 
is distinctly to be traced ; and beyond it, the ruins of 
a triumphal arch. Among the mass of fallen ma- 
sonry, there lies a large stone, bearing a figure with 
extended wings, which probably occupied one of the 
angles above the centre arch. From the pilasters 
which remain, and fragments scattered around, the 
whole structure appears to have been profusely orna- 
mented. A broad pavement of large flat stones 
extends westward from the triumphal arch, to the 
temple called by the Arabs, Kaszr Bint Faraoun, 
" the palace of Pharoah's daughter." It is the only 
building of which any considerable portion is left 
standing. Part of the cornice and frieze on the 
eastern side remain entire. The interior appears to 
have been rather profusely ornamented with bas- 
reliefs in stucco. There is nothing very interesting 
or attractive in this ruin, except that it is the only 
one remaining of this vast city, which is not levelled 
with the ground. A little to the west of this ruin, is 
an unfinished tomb, which shows that destruction 
came upon this doomed city while it was yet in 
progress. 

I have endeavored to give as minute a description 
as possible, of these wonderful remains. But I feel 
how inadequate all I can write must be, to convey 
to the reader a correct idea of the extent and gene- 
ral appearance of the ruins. Indeed, it is impossible 
to examine every part of them within the time we 
spent among them. One is forcibly struck with the 
prodigious labor which must have been expended in 



206 



HISTORY. 



cutting perpendicular and smooth such a vast extenl 
)f rock, in excavating the numerous and spacious 
chambers, and in sculpturing their highly-ornament- 
ed fronts. Every thing bears testimony to the great 
wealth of the city at the period when these works 
were in progress. It was the common centre at 
which the whole trade of Arabia, Egypt, and Syria 
met ; the source from which all the precious com- 
modities of the East found their way to Egypt, 
Gaza, Jerusalem, Tyre, and Damascus. It is now 
" a desolate wilderness," " small among the heathen, 
and despised among men." 

But, desolate as it now is, we have reason to be- 
lieve that it goes back even to the time of Esau, " the 
father of Edom." Princes and dukes, eight succes- 
sive kings, and again a long line of dukes, dwelt 
there before any king reigned over Israel. Edom, 
growing in power and strength, became presump- 
tuous and haughty. When Israel prayed a passage 
through this country, Edom said, in his pride, " Thou 
shalt not pass by me, lest I come out against thee 
with a sword." Amid all the terrible denunciations 
against the land of Idumea, this proud city among 
the rocks, for its daring iniquities, was marked as a 
subject of extraordinary vengeance. i( I have sworn 
by myself, saith the Lord, that Bozrah [the strong or 
fortified city] shall become a desolation, a reproach, 
and a waste, and a curse, and all the cities thereof 
shall be a perpetual waste. Lo, I will make thee 
small among the heathen, and despised among men. 
Thy terribleness hath deceived thee, and the pride 
of thy heart, oh thou that dwellest in the clefts of 
the rocks, that holdest the height of the hill ; though 



PROPHECIES. 



207 



thou shouldest make thy nest as high as the eagle, I 
will bring thee down from thence, saith the Lord." 
" As iii the overthrow of Sodom and Gomorrah, and 
the neighboring cities thereof, saith the Lord, no man 
shall abide there, neither shall a son of man dwell in 
it." How true is this entire prophecy in relation to 
this real Bozrah or fortified city ! How small is it 
now among the heathen, and how despised of men ! 
"Neither shall a son of man dwell in it." The 
wandering Arabs dwell in their tents around it, a 
few miles distant ; but not one of them takes up his 
abode in a palace, splendid temple, or any habita- 
tion among these numerous remains. Despising these 
beautiful structures, he only desecrates them by oc- 
casionally turning them into sheep-folds or goat- 
pens. Nor is this all. The cities of Idumea have 
been made " a perpetual waste." Petra is but a 
small part of the ruins still remaining in the doomed 
land of Edom. While we were at Akabah, two 
Arabian merchants from Maan, the ancient Teman, 
came there. They informed us of extensive ruins, 
situated five days east of Petra. They gave to them 
the name of Madine Sahley ; and stated that they 
were far more extensive than those of Waddy Mousa. 
How awfully have the withering curses of heaven, 
so clearly predicted by the prophets, while Idumea 
was yet in its pride and glory, sfa lien on that devoted 
land ! Esau's inheritance, which was once " the 
fatness of the earth," the land that once teemed with 
its rich products and wealth, flooded with the gran- 
deur and luxuries of the East, now presents but one 
wide-spread field of barrenness and desolation. Its 
naked, sterile mountains and its parched and barren 



208 



PRESENT STATE, 



vales, bear but the indelible mark of Jehovah's hand 
resting in curse upon it. 

Alluding most probably to Petra, the Prophet 
Isaiah says : " Thorns shall come up in her palaces, 
nettles and brambles in the footsteps thereof, and it 
shall be a habitation for dragons, and a court for 
owls." This is a highly-figurative prediction of the 
entirely ruined and desolate state of this city. As 
such, it is true. There is sufficient evidence of the 
complete fulfilment of prophecies, without descend- 
ing to such minute and literal details on which has 
been placed unnecessary importance. The writings 
of the prophets abound in poetic imagery. These 
portions are always to be taken as such. For in- 
stance, the prophet Isaiah says of the land of Idumea, 
" the streams thereof shall be turned into pitch, and 
I the dust thereof into brimstone, and the land thereof 
shall become burning pitch ; it shall not be quenched 
day nor night ; the smoke thereof shall go up for 
ever and ever ; from generation to generation it shall 
lie waste ; none shall pass through it forever." No 
one will pretend that the first part of this passage is 
literally applicable to the present condition of Idumea ; 
yet Mr. Keith interprets the last clause as strictly lit- 
eral ; and has endeavored to prove that no traveller 
had passed through that land. But any person coming 
from Akabah, by way of Petra, to Palestine, must be 
said, in the ordinary sense, to have passed through 
the land. Nor is the route eastward unfrequented. 
Near Mount Hor we saw a large party of merchants 
with camels and stores, on their way from Gaza to 
Maan. Not only so, but in a literal sense the wild 
Arabs are passing through the land continually. 



REFLECTIONS. 



209 



The whole passage, then, is but poetic imagery, de- 
scriptive, in the most lively terms, of the fallen and 
desolate condition of Idumea. God forbid that I 
should weaken the force of prophecy, by any re- 
marks of mine ; but I do not see the necessity of 
observing the strictest literalism in applying high, 
poetic imagery. 

The ruins of Petra teach a far more impressive 
lesson than is to be found in searching after those 
minute literalities. We see in her present condition, 
not only the accomplishment of all the denunciations 
against Edom, but a warning of the certainty with 
which all God's righteous denunciations against sin, 
will be fulfilled. Here, if we read the lesson right, 
every fragment of that desolated city will appear to 
address us with the solemn admonition : " Think ye 
that they were sinners above all men, because they 
suffered these things ? I tell you nay, but except ye 
repent, ye shall all likewise perish ! " 

Eight hundred years before Christ, Amaziah, the 
king of Judea, " slew of Edom, in the Valley of Salt, .. 
ten thousand, and took jgelah (the Hebrew name of 
Petra) by warr" About five hundred years after 
this, the city was already known to the Greeks as 
Petra. It had then passed into the hands of the 
Nabatheans, and had become a place of trade. 
Some time after this, the kingdom of Arabia Petraea 
was known — having derived its name from the city 
of Petra, which was its capital. This kingdom oc- 
cupied very nearly the same territory that was com- 
prised within the limits of ancient Edom. Two ex- 
peditions were sent against Petra, by Antigonus, 
about three hundred and one years before Christ. 



210 



THE NABATHEANS. 



In the first, the city was taken by surprise, while 
the men were absent at a neighboring mart or fair. 
The captors carried off a large booty of silver and 
merchandise. The Nabatheans, however, quickly 
pursued, to the number of eight thousand ; and, 
falling on the enemies* camp by night, destroyed the 
greatest part of them. Of the second expedition 
under Demetrius, the Nabatheans had previous in- 
telligence, defended their city, and completely baf- 
fled the whole designs of their assailants. \ 

During the reign of Augustus, Strabo speaks of 
Petra as the capital of the Nabatheans,' shut in by 
rocks round about, precipitous indeed on the outside, 
but within having copious fountains for a supply of 
water, and the irrigation of gardens. At this time 
it had become the grand depot for the rich products 
of the East, and was resorted to by foreigners. Still 
more definite is the testimony of Pliny, in the first 
century. " The Nabatheans inhabit the city called 
Petra, in a valley less than two (Roman) miles in 
amplitude." About the same time Petra was often 
mentioned by Josephus as the capital of Arabia Pe- 
trsea, in all his notices of that kingdom and its con- 
nection with Jewish affairs. With that kingdom it 
passed under the immediate sway of the Romans, 
during the reign of Trajan. His successor, Adrian, 
appears to have granted privileges to Petra, which 
led the inhabitants to give his name to the city, on 
coins. Several of these are still extant. In the 
fourth century Petra is several times mentioned by 
Eusebius and Jerome. In the fifth and sixth centu- 
ries it was the metropolitan see of the Third Pales- 
tine. Of its bishops, Germanus was present at the 



FALL OF PETRA. 



211 



Council of Seleusia, in 359 ; and Theadorus at that 
of Jerusalem, in 536.* 

From this last period, Petra suddenly vanishes 
from the pages of history. When its destruction 
took place, by whom it was destroyed, or what was 
the fate of its inhabitants, is shrouded in impenetra- 
ble mystery and darkness. But most probably it 
was destroyed by the ruthless rage of the Moham- 
medan conquerors, somewhere in the seventh cen- 
tury, when the Moslem religion was spread by the 
sword. For more than one thousand years, and un- 
til its discovery by Burckhardt in 1812, Petra was 
lost to the civilized world. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Departure from Waddy Mousa — Solemn Reflections— A Large Caravan 
— Majestic Mountain Scenery — A Startling Alarm — Governor of Gaza, 
and Guard— The Mirage — Fountains of El Wabeh — Dangers of our 
Route — Arab Tradition — Prospect of Enemies approaching — Sheik 
Selim Ebnegaza — Human Bones by the Way — Ruins of Ancient 
Moladah — An Alarm and suspected Knavery — Ruins of Ancient Maon 
— Ruins of Carmel — Ruins of Ziph — Arrival at Hebron. 

Having now spent over three days in our ascent of 
Mount Hor, and our examination of the ruins of Pe- 
tra, we were prepared to depart. We had been ac- 
tive and industrious during our whole stay, and were 
really fatigued, not with the interesting scenery 
around us, but with our laborious and fatiguing 
rambles among it. At about the middle of the day, 
Hassein and Magabel returned to the valley, the 
first time we had seen them since our arrival there. 



* Robinson. 



212 



DEPARTURE FROM PETRA. 



A large number of Arabs followed, but exhibited 
nothing but the most peaceable demeanor. Here 
we paid the stipulated tribute of four hundred pias- 
tres, and all passed off peaceably except the impor- 
tunities of some of these ragged Arabs for more 
bucksheesh. 

Our baggage was soon placed on the camels ; and 
at 2, p.m., we mounted our dromedaries and took up 
our line of march. Our course wound among the 
ruins that strewed the plain, and thence along the 
hills, lying in a westerly direction. Broken tombs 
were numerous on either hand, for the distance of 
at least two miles. As I turned my eyes back for the 
last time upon the valley, while obliquely ascending 
a long hill, a peculiar reverie came over my mind. 
I could but contrast the lonely solitude that now 
hung over the place, with the bustle, the grandeur, 
the show of which it must once have been the active 
theatre. Where now are its once teeming popula- 
tion, its wealth, its glory, and its grandeur ? Faded 
forever, and scattered to the winds of heaven ! Ill- 
fated and doomed city ! Once in the haughtiness and 
pride of thy heart, thou didst scoff at the threatened 
wrath of Heaven ; but the sword of judgment, glit- 
tering in vengeance, came upon thee ! In a sudden 
and unexpected moment, the avenging vials of wrath 
were emptied without mixture, on thy devoted head. 
Ah ! what was the fate of thy children, in that hour 
of desolating overthrow? Who were thy destroyers? 
All — all is wrapt in impenetrable mystery ! 

On our way we again passed at the foot of Mount 
Hor. Notwithstanding its barren aspect in the 
midst of most dreary solitude, its towering summit, 



A LARGE CARAVAN. 



213 



overlooking every thing around, gives to it a ma- 
jestic appearance. Near this place we began to 
meet a caravan of about two hundred and fifty 
camels, and travelled at least two miles before we 
passed the rear one of the line. Sometimes, in nar- 
row passes, we were much stressed in getting by 
them. They were from Gaza, bound to Maan, and 
loaded with provisions and stores for the supply of 
the Syrian Hadj, which would soon pass that place 
on its way to Mecca. The conductor of this cara- 
van was a fine, noble-looking Arab, and richly 
dressed. 

Our course now lay in a north-westerly direction, 
over broken and rocky hills. Among these are sit- 
uated some ruins of little interest, compared with 
those we had just left. Nearly all of them appeared 
to be the remains of ancient fortifications. At one 
place were the remains of a Roman causeway, con- 
structed with large hewn stones. Our route had 
probably been the regular road to Petra from the 
west. At length we arrived at the summit of a 
mountain, from which we could see a spacious field 
of mountains lying far below us. The scene was 
truly majestic. Many of these mountains looked 
like immense sand-banks. We crossed several of 
this description. They bore the appearance of vast 
heaps of sand, petrified into stone. The very face 
of nature in Idumea, seems, in many places, to have 
been changed into utter sterility and sand-rock. 
Our descent from this height was steep and serpen- 
tine, and I preferred travelling on foot to risking 
myself on a dromedary. Frequently we passed on 
the verge of some steep and yawning gulf. A little 



214 



THE GOVERNOR OF GAZA. 



before sunset we encamped in Waddy Errebaie, a 
most desolate region. 

About nine o'clock at night, an alarm was sud- 
denly sounded in our camp. Four armed men on 
horseback were seen approaching from towards the 
valley of Arabah. When we stepped to the door of 
our tent, our men were catching up their guns as 
though a battle was immediately expected. We had 
been informed, at Waddy Mousa, that a large en- 
campment of the hostile Benisakers was but a very 
short distance from the valley of Arabah, where we 
must pass. We had some cause to fear that they 
might hear of us and be upon .our track. Who 
could those armed men be who were now approach- 
ing us ? Were they emissaries coming from that 
hostile camp to make a demand for us to be surren- 
dered to their tribe, or pay an exorbitant tribute to 
pass through their land ? Mahomet told us he be- 
lieved they were Benisakers. For a few minutes all 
was bustle and confusion among our men. The for- 
ward one of the four rode up to Hassein, and soon 
we .perceived friendly salutations passing between 
them. They were no enemies; and were no less 
personages than the Governor of Gaza and his guard. 
They were following after the loaded caravan that 
we had met near Mount Hor, but had been detained 
on business a distance back. Soon they were seated 
around the fire of our Arabs, and we in the circle 
with them. The Governor was a fine, pleasant- 
looking man, rather under forty. He had on a richly- 
ornamented purple over-dress, girt with a beautiful 
belt, in which were placed a splendid brace of Turk- 
ish pistols, and a heavy costly sabre hung by his side. 



THE MIRAGE. 



215 



His three guards were also strongly armed. We 
ordered Comeo to make coffee, and furnish, them a 
supper from our stores. This was soon done to much 
satisfaction ; and an hour passed very pleasantly in 
conversing with them through our interpreter. 

Jan. 30. The governor and his guard took an early 
start ; but not until they had first come to our tent 
and given us the Arab parting salutation. This 
governor might be regarded as a fair specimen of the 
oriental gentleman. Soon afterwards we got under 
way ; and one hour brought us again to the valley 
of Arabah. This great valley extends north from 
the Gulf of Akabah, to a low broken ledge, eight or 
nine miles from the south end of the Dead Sea. 
North of this ledge the valley sinks to nearly a level 
with the Dead Sea. This portion takes the name of 
El Ghor. In Scripture it is called " the V alley of 
Salt." The name of El Ghor is also properly ap- 
plicable to the whole valley of the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan. Where we now entered the valley of Ara- 
bah, it is about eight miles wide, but almost entirely 
bare of vegetable life. Its sands, intermingled with 
pebbles, lay glistening in the sunbeams. 

In casting our eyes south we saw, to-day, a beau- 
tiful instance of the mirage, called by the Arabs 
serab. It presented, about four miles distant down 
the valley, the appearance of a beautiful lake, with 
trees on its banks, aud a small island distinctly re- 
flected in its clear and placid waters. It was so 
strikingly natural that it was impossible to make the 
eye see that it was only an illusion. These are fre- 
quently seen in travelling through the desert, but I 
had seen none to compare with the one we saw to- 



216 



EL WABEH. 



day. I merely state the fact, without attempting to 
give the philosophy of it. 

Our general course lay nearly north-west, with the 
design of gaining the west side of the valley. At 
about 4, p. m., we fell in with a Bedoin, who was 
alone. Hassein stopped and conversed with him 
several minutes. He was an Alloeen, and assured 
our men that the Benisakers were not encamped in 
our way. Toward sunset, passing some isolated 
ledges of rock, in thirty minutes we came to the 
springs of El Wabeh, one of the most important 
watering-places in the great valley. There are three 
small fountains issuing from the chalky rock of which 
the slope is composed. In the vicinity is a jungle of 
coarse grass and canes, with a few palm-trees. Near 
these fountains we encamped for the night. Profes- 
sor Robinson supposes this may be the ancient Kadesh 
of Scripture. At best this can only be a conjecture, 
though it may possibly be the true place ; and the 
location would rather favor that opinion than other- 
wise. 

Jan. 31. Our course, to-day, lay about north-by- 
west, over barren hills covered with sharp flint 
stones, and entirely bare of vegetation. We had 
now advanced upon the most dangerous region in all 
our journey, from marauding parties of the Beni- 
sakers, who are frequently passing in various direc- 
tions in search of plunder. A vanguard of two was 
constantly kept in advance of our line, and a flank- 
guard on each side, to keep a look out. The travel- 
ler through Arabia Petrsea is not endangered by his 
guides. These, when bound by contract, will always 
be true, and will protect him if they can. He is, 



THE BENISAKERS. 



217 



however, in frequent danger of being fallen upon by- 
some marauding band of lawless brigands, too pow- 
erful for his guides to protect him against. Here lies 
the grand secret of the danger. There are often, too, 
petty feuds and wars between tribes ; and at such 
times, marauding parties are numerous and lawless. 
The numerous tribe called Benisakers, inhabiting 
around the Dead Sea and east of it, have long main- 
tained a kind of lawless independence against all the 
tribes bordering them. It is said they are able to 
bring five thousand fighting men into the field. They 
go mounted on fleet horses, and carry spears fifteen 
feet in length. While the Holy Land was under the 
government of Mehemet Ali, he tried at different 
times, but in vain, to subdue this tribe. They were, 
however, in some respects held in check by him; for 
they continually feared his wrath and chastising 
hand. Since Syria has again fallen into the hands 
of the Turks, the Benisakers pursue their former 
wanton and lawless course of robbery and plunder. 
We were now passing along the borders of this tribe. 
Often, during the day, we crossed deep defiles and 
wound along the sides of precipitous hills. Our 
route was very rough, and quite barren of interest. 
At 5, p.m., we encamped on the south side of Mount 
Asufar, in Waddy Fikreh. The valley of El Ghor 
lay a few miles to the east of us. 

February 1. About two hours after starting, this 
morning, we commenced the ascent of Mount Asufar. 
The side of this mountain was so steep and broken 
that we were obliged to dismount and walk over it 
— a distance of four or five miles. The day was 
very warm, and the walk fatiguing. On the top of 



218 



TRICKS UPON TRAVELLERS. 



the mountain are the ruins of an old castle. In our 
ascent we met a caravan of about forty asses, from 
Gaza, loaded with corn. Each ass carried a sack of 
black color, containing from three to four bushels. 
On our descent from the mountain northerly, we 
overtook a large caravan of asses from Waddy 
Mousa, on their way to Gaza, for corn. They had 
passed us early in the morning before we got under 
way, and were now stopping to take their breakfast. 
Sheik Magabel stopped a few minutes, and soon he 
and two of them were in an angry discussion. The 
secret of this difficulty, as we learned by our inter- 
preter, was, the two men were dissatisfied that we 
had been to the ruins of Petra, had examined them, 
and got away so peaceably. They declared that no 
more Frank travellers should be permitted to go into 
Waddy Mousa till the tribe of the place first had 
their guards set. The meaning of this was, there 
should be no more stipulations with travellers, how 
much tribute they should pay for the privilege of 
visiting the ruins of Petra, till after their arrival 
there. The tribe should first have notice of their 
coming, and then have guards set in every direction 
among the ruins. These would prevent the travel- 
lers from examining any thing till the amount of 
tribute should then be agreed upon. The demand 
would be a round sum, which they might pay, or 
otherwise be driven out of the place, without being 
permitted to examine any thing. They blamed 
Sheik Magabel that we had not been served in this 
manner. We, in their judgment, had enjoyed our 
visit too peaceably, and got away too lightly by 
paying only four hundred piastres ! We were led 



ORAL TRADITION. 



219 



from this to indulge some fears, that the next travel- 
lers who might visit Waddy Mousa, would meet 
with a troublesome reception. With the exception 
of ourselves, this, I believe, has already been the 
case with every Frank traveller who has ventured 
to visit the ruins of Petra. 

A little to the left of our road was a mountain 
called Madurah ; and the Arabs relate a tradition 
of a city or village being once destroyed there. 
The legend, as they give it, is, that a city once stood 
at the foot of that mountain ; but God, being pro- 
voked at the great wickedness of the inhabitants, 
destroyed their city with stones from heaven. It 
appears that in 1807, while Sweetzen was in He- 
bron, he got this tradition from the Arabs ; and, ob- 
taining guides, made a visit to the place. He, how- 
ever, found no ruins there.* It is very probable 
that the whole story is only the imperfect tradition 
held by the Arabs of the destruction of Sodom. It 
is not strange that, in the absence of all correct his- 
torical knowledge among them, they should change 
the site of a destroyed city. 

From Mount Asufar we descended to an elevated 
plain of sand, covered with very scanty herbage, and 
tenanted in places with millions of large black ants. 
Vegetation gradually improved as we advanced. 
The grass became thicker and greener, interspersed 
with some flowers, especially the red tulip. Flocks 
of goats, sheep, and camels, were seen feeding, at- 
tended by Arabs. 

About 1, p.m., just after passing some broken hills, 
a cry was sounded from the rear of our caravan, 

* Robinson. 



220 



AN ALARM. 



" horsemen 1 horsemen coming ! " The first thought 
was that a party of Benisakers were coming upon 
us, as their marauding hordes always go on horse- 
back. Soon we saw two savage -looking fellows 
cantering their chargers over a hill, and making to- 
wards us. Expecting immediately to see more fol- 
low, every man of our party caught his arms, and 
our caravan was ordered to halt. But as only two 
appeared in sight, Hassein and Magabel, who were 
in front of our line, hastened back to meet them. 
Our men, by this time, had got their arms ready, and 
we looked some like a line drawn up for battle. 
Soon, friendly salutations passing from our shieks, 
and the appearance of our men, gave us to under- 
stand that no danger was to be immediately ap- 
prehended. The two comers proved to be Sheik 
Selim Ebnegaza and another of the same tribe. 
They belonged to a branch of the Alloeens, living 
back of Petra, but were dressed in a most wild and 
savage-looking manner. Besides swords and pistols, 
they carried spears about fifteen feet long, sharply 
pointed with steel at both ends. This new sheik 
was a cunning, roguish-looking fellow, of about 
thirty-five, short, but more thick-set than Bedoins 
commonly, and was mounted on the finest horse I 
had seen since I left Egypt. 

They had heard of our visit to Petra ; and suppos- 
ing (as about all Arabs do) that Frank travellers 
scatter a stream of gold where they pass, they had 
come on to see if they could not catch a little of it. 
They, of course, wanted sheik Hassein to fork over 
a little of the tribute, and not make himself too rich 
by conducting Frank travellers through the country. 



SKELETONS. 



221 



How this matter was arranged, I am unable to say. 
This new sheik travelled with us about two hours, 
then turned off to the left, and we saw him no more. 
The other kept with us during the day ; and when 
we encamped at night, he was still among our men. 
In the morning he, too, was missing ; and what be- 
came of him we were wholly unable to learn. 
Even our interpreter could get no information on 
the subject. 

After passing the mountain this morning, skeletons 
of horses, camels, and men were thickly strewn by 
the way. These were but some awful remnants of 
Mehemet Ali's retreating army from Syria, after the 
fall of St. Joan d' Acre, in November, 1840. Of this 
I shall speak more particularly in another place. I 
noticed in one place the entire skeleton of a man 
lying where he had fallen dead. His clothes and 
flesh had rotted together ; but not a bone had appa- 
rently been disturbed. In other places, and for 
miles in extent, we saw skulls and other bones scat- 
tered along our path ; their flesh probably having 
been eaten by wolves, jackalls, vultures, and crows. 
0, the horrors of war ! About 4, p.m., we passed the 
ruins of a town, called by our Arabs, Kourmoub. 
Nothing remains of it but stones scattered in pro- 
miscuous confusion. Encamped at 5, p.m., in Waddy 
Errarra. 

Feb. 2. This morning our course lay over an ex- 
tended plain. Soon after starting, we passed the 
ruins of a small village a little to our right. At 
about 11, a.m., we came upon the ruins of a large 
town, which our Arabs called El Milleh. I should 
judge that the ruins of this town were over half a 



222 



ANOTHER ALARM. 



mile square. To the west of the town is a very con- 
siderable eminence, also covered with rubbish, pro- 
bably the ruins of a fortress. No part of any build- 
ing is left standing in the place ; the ruins present 
nothing but a mass of unhewn stones. On the 
north side is a slight ravine, in which are three 
wells, one of which is filled nearly to the surface. 
The other two were about fifty feet deep ; and 
around them were eighteen stone watering troughs. 
The stones of the wells were hewn, and very neatly 
laid, in a circular form. The top tier was consider- 
ably worn by the use of ropes in drawing water. 
The land around these wells looked fertile, and the 
pasturage was luxuriant, of which, while we were 
stopping, our camels ate greedily. It is highly pro- 
bable that these ruins mark the site of the ancient 
city of Moladah, mentioned in Joshua, xv., 26. 

Soon after leaving this place, an alarm was sound- 
ed from the rear of our caravan, that men were 
coming on dromedaries. We had begun to hope 
that we were now out of the region of alarms ; but 
here was another. Who could be coming now ? 
Were they enemies ? Our guards seized their guns 
and ran back. Hassein and Magabel also cantered 
to the rear, giving orders, at the same time, for us 
and the camels to move on. In a few minutes the 
guard began to join us ; and soon after, Hassein 
rode up and informed us that he had talked with the 
suspicious men, and found they were only agents 
sent out to seek a new place of pasturage for their 
tribe. This was one thing, but we guessed another. 
We found, this morning, that there was an addition 
to our caravan of two camels, without any additional 



EL BRACE. 



223 



men. Were could the camels have come from ? 
We could form no idea, unless they had been foraged 
in during the night. Hassein has a smooth tongue ; 
and if the men in question were in pursuit of lost 
camels, he most probably convinced them that they 
were not in our caravan, and induced them to take 
another direction. But as we had nothing to do 
with this business, we wished to make no difficulty 
where our situation at best was precarious enough. 
Soon we found we were travelling a course without 
any track. This evolution strengthened the opinion 
that it was done to evade pursuit, should any farther 
search be made for lost camels. In about two hours 
we struck on several tracks. At a short distance 
farther we passed several plots of ground lately 
ploughed and sowed with wheat, which was just 
coming up. This was the first ploughed ground we 
had seen since leaving Egypt. About 3, p.m., we 
passed a large encampment of Bedoins, situated in 
a small ravine. An hour farther, we came to the 
ruins of a very considerable town, which the Arabs 
called El Brace. No part of any building was 
standing, and the ruins presented nothing but stones 
and rubbish. They cover a space of something like 
half a mile square. Passing a few rods beyond 
these ruins, we encamped for the night at the foot 
of a tall mountain, for which I was enabled to learn 
no name. 

Feb. 3. Early this morning we commenced the 
ascent of the mountain at the foot of which we had 
encamped over the night. A great part of the way 
was steep, and 1 passed up it on foot. At about 9, 
a.m., we arrived at the height from which an exten- 



224 CARMEL. 

sive view was had northwardly. To our left, some 
five or six miles distant, was the village of Semua, 
with extensive olive-groves near it. It appeared to 
be situated on the declivity of a hill sloping to the 
east, and was the first inhabited town we had seen 
since leaving Suez. That village is now supposed 
to mark the site of ancient Eshtemoa, one of the 
cities given to the children of Aaron. Joshua, xxi. 14. 
We could faintly see the city of Hebron at a distance 
north of us. 

Just after commencing our descent of this moun- 
tain to the north, a conical hill was a little at our 
right. On the summit of this hill are situated the 
ruins of the ancient Maon of the Old Testament. 
The place was famous as the residence of Nabal, 
who, on account of his covetousness, came near be- 
ing cut off by David and his men, but was saved by 
the more liberal policy of his wife Abigail. 1 
Samuel, xxv. On the summit of the hill are ruins, 
but of no very great extent. They consist chiefly of 
foundations of hewn stone ; a square enclosure, pro- 
bably the remains of a tower; and several stone 
cisterns. Not a human habitation is left standing to 
mark the spot. 

The face of this entire region has a rocky and ra- 
ther sterile appearance. There are pieces of the 
soil, however, cultivated, and in some places were 
handsome, fields of young wheat. About thirty min- 
utes brought us to the ruins of Carmel. These 
cover a very considerable space, and indicate that 
once a populous and strongly-fortified town stood 
there. The ruins consist, chiefly, of the foundations, 
and broken walls of dwellings and other edifices, 



ZIPH. 



225 



now scattered about in mournful confusion and 
desolation. Most of the stones were only roughly 
hewn. In a prominent place is still partly standing 
an ancient castle. It is quadrangular, the sides 
measuring sixty-two feet by forty-two, and facing 
towards the cardinal points.* The walls are evi- 
dently ancient, and have on the northern and west- 
ern sides a sloping bulwark, like the citadel in Je- 
rusalem. These ruins are regarded as marking the 
site of the ancient Carmel of the mountains of 
Judah. Here King Saul set up his trophy of victory 
over Amalek. — 1 Sam.,xv. 12 ; and here Nabal was 
shearing his sheep when the affair took place be- 
tween him and David, before alluded to. 

Less than one hour further brought us to the 
ruins of ancient Ziph. These lay a little to the 
right of our path, and are situated on a low ridge, 
between two small valleys which commence here, 
and run towards the Dead Sea. Among them there 
is little to be seen except broken walls and founda- 
tions, mostly of unhewn stones. The whole, how- 
ever, covers a very considerable tract, and indicates 
that a town of strength and solidity once stood 
there. In the middle is a low, massive, square 
building, constructed of squared stones, and vaulted 
within with pointed arches. This shows that the 
place must have been inhabited long after the Mo- 
hammedan conquest.* There are several stone 
reservoirs or cisterns still remaining. In the midst 
of the ruins is a narrow sloping passage, cut down 
into the rock. This terminates at a door with a 
subterranean chamber bej^ond, which may have 

* Robinson. 

10* 



226 



ENCAMPMENT. 



served most probably as a magazine. There are 
others in the vicinity, which probably, were only 
suburbs. It was in a mountain near Ziph, that 
David concealed himself a length of time when 
hunted by Saul, and the treacherous Ziphites made 
a covenant with Saul to deliver David into their 
hands. This would probably have been accom- 
plished had not an invasion by the Philistines called 
Saul away from the pursuit. 1 Sam., xxiii. The 
whole region over which we were now passing is 
famous as the ground over which David fled from 
place to place when pursued by the deadly malice 
of Saul. 

Our course now led, as near as I could judge, in a 
north-north- west direction. In one hour and a half 
we came to a rich, fertile valley, which, coming 
from the south, enters the broad valley in which 
Hebron is situated. Vineyards, orange, lemon, fig, 
apricot, and pomegranate trees were numerous. 
Small whitened buildings spotted the valley, in the 
midst of luxuriant olive groves, and the vineyards, 
rising on terraces each side of the valley, give to 
the whole scene a picturesque appearance. Every 
thing appeared in beautiful contrast with the lonely 
solitude of the desert, to which we had been so 
long confined. Passing down by the side of this 
valley for some distance, we at length descended 
into it. Hebron lay but a short distance before us, 
and at that place presented a pretty and inviting 
appearance. At 1, p.m., we had selected a pleas- 
ant, green spot, west of the city, to pitch our tents. 
It was directly by the side of a large Mohammedan 
burial-ground. The day was warm, and soon we 



GOVERNOR OF HEBRON. 



227 



were seated under the cover of our tent, contem- 
plating the mercy of the Most High, in protecting 
us through our long and dangerous journey of the 
desert. 



CHAPTER XV. 

The Governor of Hebron — Visit to the Tomb of Abraham— A Shameful 
Repulse — Description of the Tomb— Bazars— Manufactories— Jews in 
Hebron— General Appearance of the Town — Pools of Hebron — Tombs 
of Jesse and Abner — Vineyards — Abraham's Tree— Plain of Mamre— 
Reflections — Parting with our Arab Guides — Departure from Hebron — 
Ruins by the way — Pools of Solomon — Arrival at Bethlehem — Convent 
and Church of the Nativity — Place of our Saviour's Birth — General 
Apppearance of Bethlehem— Valley of the Shepherds and David's 
Well — Departure from Bethlehem — Rachel's Tomb — Arrival at Jeru- 
salem. 

It was now only about one o'clock, p.m., and we 
concluded we should have ample time to make our 
examinations in and around Hebron, and leave 
early in the morning for Bethlehem and Jerusalem. 
After adjusting things in our tent, we concluded first 
to call on and pay our respects to the governor of 
Hebron. Soon we were conducted to Sheik Abdel 
Rahmon, the acting governor. He was a large, 
brawny-looking man of about forty, with coarse 
features, high forehead, and large head. His dress 
was rather ordinary for one of his dignity, but his 
whole appearance indicated resolution, courage, and 
muscular strength. He received us affably and 
with a smiling countenance; expressed much grati- 
fication in seeing us, and said it had been a long 
time since any Frank travellers had come through 
the desert before. He expressed a disposition to aid 
us in any thing we might need, would furnish us 
fresh provisions^ and see that we had horses the next 



228 



TOMB OF ABRAHAM. 



morning to convey us to Jerusalem. In the midst of 
this conversation, we were served with coffee. 

An early object of our visit to Hebron, was the 
large mosque which covers the tombs of Abraham, 
Sarah, Isaac, and Jacob. No modern Frank had 
been permitted to enter this mosque, with one excep- 
tion ; that of a Spaniard, who, having acquired a 
knowledge of the Arabic, and assumed the Moslem 
habit, passed himself as Ali Bey. We were resolv- 
ed on an effort to gain admission into this mosque, 
deemed so sacred by Mohammedans, and hitherto 
guarded with so much Mussulman jealousy. We 
made our desires known to the governor. He ex- 
pressed a wish that we might be admitted, but it 
was not for him to enforce such a privilege ; he 
knew the keepers of the mosque were very supersti- 
tious, but he would send his brother with us, who 
would do all he could to gain us admission. The 
brother who was to accompany us, was a fine-look- 
ing young Turk, and, indeed, might be called hand- 
some. 

This great mosque, or rather harem, is the most 
imposing object in Hebron, and is regarded by the 
Mohammedans as one of the most sacred places in 
the Holy Land. Its situation is prominent and com- 
manding, and its dimensions both large and high. 
Professor Robinson, who measured it, found the 
length about two hundred feet, and the breadth 
about one hundred and fifty. Its height must be at 
least fifty feet. The stones of which it is construct- 
ed are very large, hewn smooth, and bevelled. On 
each side of the exterior are sixteen square pilasters, 
and eight at each end. These are without capitals, 



SHAMEFUL REPULSE. 



229 



but are surmounted by a plain cornice, which ex- 
tends along the whole building. Above this, the 
walls have been raised about ten feet higher, with 
a small minaret at each corner. There are no win- 
dows visible. We saw two places of entrance, both 
on the northern side, in front of which are nights of 
stone steps. The whole stands on the slope of the 
eastern hill, and under this huge pile is said to be 
the cave of Machpelah, where Abraham and the 
other patriarchs were buried. 

The governor's brother led the way to the entrance, 
at the north-west corner, which brought us into a 
kind of hall, directly in front of which was a long 
flight of stone steps leading to an upper story. A 
short distance from the entrance, on the left side, is 
a small opening in the wall, through w r hich all was 
darkness and nothing to be seen. This is said to be r 
an opening over the tomb of Abraham, and into this 
place Jews are permitted to look, say their prayers, i 
and wail. Several Mohammedan priests, dressed in 
white, stood at the foot of the stairs, and bore the 
appearance of being Turks. The governor's brother 
applied to them to grant us permission to explore 
the interior of the building. This they positively 
refused, with a most malicious frown. An attempt 
was then made to bribe them with money. This offer 
they professed to receive with great indignity, and 
declared we should not be admitted for any sum we 
would offer. Our conductor gave them some rather 
angry remarks and looks, and motioned us to follow 
him out. He next led the way to the entrance at 
the north east corner, the door of which was open. 
But no sooner had we approached the steps leading 



230 



MONASTIC TRADITION. 



to it, than a young Mohammedan priest came run- 
ning down a flight of stairs inside, and slammed the 
door in our faces with a vengeance. At this, the 
governor's brother sprang with full force against 
the door, nearly carrying it off the hinges, and pros- 
trating the young Mohammedan priest. Our guide's 
eyes and whole countenance flashed vengeance, and 
I could scarcely imagine what might be the result. 
The whole horde of priests, however, soon gather- 
ed, and after a few minutes' angry discussion be- 
tween them and our guide, we found we must 
leave and give up the pursuit of what we had so 
anxiously desired. The governor's brother was a 
fine young man, and expressed much chagrin at this 
disappointment. As we turned away, Mr. B. de- 
clared, with some warmth, if there was ever an- 
other crusade to take the Holy Land, if living, he 
would join in it, and would make these Mohammed- 
an priests dance to a tune they would not like. 

Monastic tradition refers the erection of a church 
over the tombs of the patriarchs, to St. Helena, in 
the fourth century. There is, however, little to sus 
tain this as a fact. The interior of this edifice maj 
have been used at an early day as a place of Chris- 
tian worship, but the exterior has the appearance 
of great antiquity. The stones being bevelled indi- 
cates its construction to be Jewish ; and I see no 
cause to doubt that this is the actual place of sepul- 
ture of the patriarchs. Josephus states that Abra- 
ham and his descendants erected monuments over 
these sepulchres. He also says the sepulchres of 
the patriarchs were still in Hebron, built of marble 
and of elegant workmanship. In the days of Euse- 



SEPULCHRES. 



231 



bius and Jerome, the monument of Abraham was 
yet pointed out ; and the Bourdeaux pilgrim, in a.d. 
333, describes it as a quadrangle, built of stones, of 
admirable beauty.* Without much doubt this de- 
scription refers to the outer walls as they are now 
seen. Statements confirming the above are given 
by Antoninus Martyr, in the 6th century, Arculfus, 
in the 7th century, and St. Willibald, near the close 
of the 8th century. 

Ali Bey, who visited this mosque in 1807, passing 
himself as a Moslem, gives a minute description of 
the sepulchres, which, he says, are each in a separate 
apartment on the level of the floor of the mosque. 
According to his account, all the sepulchres "have 
separate entrances, closed with iron gates, and by 
wooden doors plated with silver and secured by silver 
bolts and padlocks. The tombs of the patriarchs are 
covered with rich carpets of green silk, magnificently 
embroidered with gold ; those of their wives are red, 
embroidered in like manner. I counted nine, one 
over the other, on the sepulchre of Abraham. The 
rooms, also, which contain the tombs, are covered 
with rich carpets." The above description, however, 
is at variance with earlier accounts, which represent 
all the six tombs as in a cave under the mosque. 

Benjamin, of Tudela, a Spanish Jew, who visited 
Hebron in the 12th century, gives the following de- 
scription: — "I came to Hebron seated on a plaine ; 
for Hebron the ancient metripolitan citie stood upon 
an hill ; but it is now desolate. But in the valley 
there is a duplicitie, that is, as it were, two little val- 
leyes, and there the citie is placed ; and there is an 

* Robinson. 



232 



JEWISH DESCRIPTION. 



huge temple there, called Saint Abraham, and that 
place was the synagogue of the Jews, at what time 
the country was possessed by the Ishmaelites. But 
the Gentiles, who afterwards obtayned and held the 
same, built sixe sepulchres in the temple, b}' the 
names of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, Rebecca, Jacob and 
Lia, and the inhabitants now tell the pilgrimes that 
they are the monuments of the patriarchs ; and great 
summes of money are offered there. But surely to 
any Jew coming thither and offering the porters a 
reward, the cave is showed, with the iron gate open- 
ed, which from antiquitie remayneth yet there. And 
a man goeth down with lamp-light into the first cave, 
where nothing is found, nor also in the second until 
he enter the third, in which there are sixe monu- 
ments, the one right over against the other ; and 
each of them are engraven w T ith characters and dis- 
tinguished by the name of every one of them after 
this manner: Sepulchrum Abraham patris nostri, 
super quern pax sit ; and so the rest after the same 
example. And a lampe perpetually burneth in the 
cave day and night, the officers of the temple continu- 
ally administering oile for the maintenance thereof." 

Sanderson, who was in Hebron in 1601, agrees 
with the Spanish Jew in describing the tombs as in 
a cave under the church ; but in his time pilgrims 
do not appear to have been allowed to enter the cave, 
" but at a square hole, through a thick wall they dis- 
cern a little light of a lamp." " The Jews," he says, 
" do their ceremonies of prayer there without. The 
Moores and Turks are permitted to have a little 
more sight, which is at the top where they let down 
the oyle for the lampe." 



BAZARS. 



233 



Both our servants, who were Mohammedans, had 
been admitted into this mosque, but could give us no 
very distinct account of what they had seen. But 
from their description, it would appear that the 
sepulchres were in the mosque itself. They were, 
however, only allowed to look through the iron gate. 

The main Bazars are on a street near the mosque. 
There was abundance of fruit, especially oranges and 
raisins. I noticed the latter as being peculiarly large 
and handsome. The Bazars, however, were not 
abundantly stocked. At the butchers' stalls was 
some excellent mutton. We ate of this kind of meat 
while at Hebron, and I have never seen better. In 
one part of the main quarter are several glass manu- 
factories, for which Hebron has long been famous. 
We visited three, and found the processes similar to 
those in other places, though more rude. The articles 
manufactured consist mostly of small glass lamps, 
many of which are sent to Egypt, and rings of color- 
ed glass worn by females on the arms. I saw large 
quantities of these for sale at Jerusalem. 

On the hill-side of the town was a large establish- 
ment for the manufactory of water-skins. These are 
merely goat-skins stripped off whole, except at the 
neck, the holes at the legs and tail being sewed up. 
The process of tanning and preparing these is simple. 
They are first stuffed out full, by driving in small 
billets and chips of oak wood, and are then filled with 
a strong infusion of oak bark. This remains till the 
hair becomes fixed and the skin sufficiently tanned. 
A very large amount of these skins were lying about 
a yard in the process of tanning. 

The Jews of Hebron occupy a small quarter in the 



234 



JEWS IN HEBRON, 



north-east part of the town, in the midst of which 
they have a synagogue. Their quarter here is much 
better than that assigned them in Jerusalem ; and in 
general they have a more neat and tidy appearance. 
We saw several of their women, and all appeared to 
be habited in white. A long piece of white stuff, 
like a shawl, was thrown over the head, fastened 
under the chin, and hanging down to the feet. Their 
appearance was neat and rather prepossessing. 
Many of the Arab women in Hebron dress in a simi- 
lar manner when they walk out, but they always 
wear a white veil over the face, which the Jewish 
women do not. 

Hebron is called by the Arabs El Khalil Ibrahim, 
" Abraham, the friend." It lies principally on the 
eastern side of the valley ascending back. The 
houses are all of stone, high and substantially built, 
with flat roofs. On these roofs are small domes, 
sometimes two or three to a house. This gave the 
place a rather novel appearance to us. It is not 
walled around, but the entrances of several streets 
are by gates. Its population is variously estimated 
at from four thousand to six thousand. With all our 
inquiries, we were unable to settle definitely upon 
the present number of its inhabitants. There is, 
however, but one Christian family residing there, and 
they, at that time, had gone to Jerusalem. The in- 
habitants are Arabs, Turks and Jews. The Moham- 
medans of Hebron are of the most rigid sort. Sur- 
rounded with vineyards, olive groves, and abundance 
of fruit trees, the place has a very pretty appearance 
in the distance, and indeed, on entering it, we 
found it better than we expected. The streets, 



HEBRON. 



235 



however, are mostly mere narrow alleys, and very 
filthy. 

Near the entrance of the town is a large, square 
pool, about eight rods on each side, and about twenty 
feet deep. It is built of large hewn stone, and is a 
firm piece of mason-work. Flights of stone steps at 
each corner lead down into it, and the water in it 
was several feet deep. At the north end of the town 
is a similar pool but of smaller dimensions. This is 
said to be eighty-five feet long, fifty-five broad, and 
eighteen deep. This also contained several feet of 
water. These pools were constantly frequented by 
persons carrying away water in skins, and they seem 
to afford the chief supply for the town. It is said 
they are filled only from the rains. There is, how- 
ever, a good spring at the foot of a hill a little north 
of our tent, where we obtained a supply of water. 
Both the pools above-named, are evidently of high 
antiquity. In all probability, one of them is to be 
regarded as "the pool of Hebron," over which 
David hanged up the assassins of Ishbosheth. — 2 
Sam., iv. 12. 

On a hill to the north-west of the town, we were 
conducted to what are shown as the tombs of Jesse 
and Abner. They were both rude stone buildings, 
going to decay, and contained nothing of interest. 
Having very little faith in the identity of these, I 
shall attempt no description of them. A considerable 
distance further up the valley, and about two miles 
northward from the town, stands a large isolated 
oak tree, of a peculiar species — indeed, unlike any I 
had ever seen before. Our Arab guides pointed to 
this as the tree of Abraham. Curiosity led Mr. B. 



236 



VINEYARDS. 



and myself to visit it, and although we found our 
walk longer than we had anticipated, it was, never- 
theless, highly interesting, The valley in that di- 
rection, becomes much broader, and is fenced into 
small lots, mostly occupied as vineyards. Men were 
engaged in planting vines. This is done in single 
rows and about ten feet apart. When grown up to 
the height of six or eight feet, the vine is fastened 
in a sloping position to a strong stake. The shoots 
are thus permitted to extend from one vine to an- 
other, forming a line of festoons. Sometimes two 
rows are made to slant towards each other, forming 
a kind of arch. These shoots are pruned off in Au- 
gust. Each vineyard has a small house or tower of 
stone, which serves for a keeper's lodge. During 
the vintage, it is said, the inhabitants of Hebron go 
out and dwell in these houses in the valley, and the 
town is almost deserted. The grapes around He- 
bron are said to be of a very superior quality, and the 
best in the Holy Land. In this part of the -valley 
everything looked thrifty and delightful. 

Properly at the head of this beautiful scenery, 
stands the venerable oak which we had come to 
visit. It is, indeed, a large and splendid tree, and 
must be considered very sacred by the Mohammed- 
ans, or it would not have been spared, where timber 
and fuel is so exceedingly scarce as in that whole 
region. The trunk of the tree indicates that it has 
been at least a second or third growth ; as it is pro- 
perly three large trunks, barely joined together near 
the root. This, I believe, is never the case with a 
first growth. The size and general appearance of 
the tree, bear marks of great age, though every part 



Abraham's tree. 



237 



of it appeared sound and thrifty. The trunk mea- 
sures twenty-two and a half feet around the lower 
part, and its branches extend over an uncommon 
space for one tree. The ground beneath it was co- 
vered with grass, and was clean. Near by was a 
well with water, and a more delightful spot is not to 
be found in the entire vicinity of Hebron. Does 
this really mark the site of Abraham's tree, under 
which he entertained three angels ? Genesis, xviii. 
4 — 8. Professor Robinson fixes on another spot, but 
a small distance from this, as the plain of Mamre 
where Abraham dwelt. I could see nothing in the 
appearance of the place he designates, to give it the 
preference. From the beauty of scenery around the 
tree, with the valley stretching south from it, I 
should suppose it the very spot which would have 
been selected by the patriarch in preference to any 
other in the entire region. I therefore see no cause 
to doubt but this may have been the place where 
Abraham and Sarah dwelt when the three angels 
announced to them that they should have a son in 
their old age. 

But whether this tree mark a spot once near the 
tent of Abraham or not, Hebron and its vicinity is 
an interesting region. It is one of the most ancient 
cities still existing which we read of in the Scrip- 
tures. Here Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, dwelt and. 
communed with God, and here they and their wives 
were buried. For several years Hebron was the 
royal residence of David, and the capital of the 
kingdom of Israel. In this very vicinity the sweet 
singer in Israel composed many of his psalms, which 
yet thrill through the pious soul to raise its affec- 



BURIAL-GROUND. 



tions to God. My mind was indeed affected by the 
scenery and the associations around me. 

About sunset we returned to our tent, fatigued 
with the rambles of the day. The large Moham- 
medan burial-ground lay near us. A multitude of 
females, decked off in showy white, with veiled 
faces, were wandering among the graves. Some 
were sitting and wailing over the mouldering re- 
mains of departed kindred still bound " in memory's 
affection." As the gray hour of twilight began to 
scatter its sombre shades over the landscape, the 
visitors to the cemetery slowly moved towards the 
town. Soon "night curtained nature's scenery," 
and the hum of the town was broken in upon by 
martial music at the barracks of the Turkish troops 
stationed in the place. We partook of our evening 
meal, and shortly after were lost in the depths of 
sweet slumber. 

Feb. 4. We had now done with our Arab guides, 
who had conducted us from Akabah to Hebron. 
They were about to take their final leave of us to 
return to their homes in the desert, and we to go on 
our way to Jerusalem. From the accounts given by 
Stevens, Kinnear, and other travellers, we had anti- 
cipated some trouble in settling with Shiek Hassein. 
It is true, our contract with him was very definite, 
and made in writing, but others had represented him 
as so niggardly and grasping on final settlement, that 
we had feared our parting with him might not be as 
pleasant as we could desire. But how were we sur- 
prised ! Not the slightest misunderstanding occurred 
between him and us when we came to pay him 
what yet remained his due. We counted out the 



PARTING WITH HASSEIN. 



239 



amount in Turkish gold pieces of twenty piastres 
each, and laid it before him. Such was the appa- 
rent confidence he reposed in our honesty, that he 
was about to put up the money without counting it 
himself. We insisted that he must examine it and 
see for himself that he had his just due, which he 
did by our urging. We then distributed a portion 
of money around among all the men, as bucksheesh. 
Next we gave our two tents to Hassein and Selim, 
and our three camel-saddles to the three sheiks, 
Hassein, Selim, and Magabel. Finally, every thing- 
considered cumbrous, and that could not be conve- 
niently carried on one pack-mule, we bestowed as 
presents on the sheiks. 

Our horses had now arrived, and what baggage we 
had left was soon placed on a mule. Our camel 
saddle-bags we retained and carried on the horses 
we rode. The governor and brother, with others, 
came to our tent to take leave of us. All was now 
ready for a start, and we gave the parting hand first 
to our Arab guides. Their parting looks and ex- 
pressions were truly affectionate. Indeed, I had 
scarcely expected to feel so much of the tender spirit 
when I came to part with those rude sons of the de- 
sert. They had one and all been faithful and kind to 
us, and I have reason to believe they will never 
esteem Frank travellers the less from their inter- 
course with us. Presenting the governor an ample 
compensation for all he had done for us, we bade him 
and his associates farewell. We mounted our 
horses a little past eight, and, accompanied by three 
muleteers and an armed guard of three, we set 
out for Jerusalem. The guard was deemed neees- 



240 



DEPARTURE FROM HEBRON. 



sary trom the dangerous state of the road we had 
to pass. 

We had now forever placed the desert, with its 
dangers and privations behind us, and had before us 
a more habitable region, though by no means free 
from dangers by barbarous hands. We had now 
done with camels, and at this I felt no otherwise 
than rejoiced. They are one of the inconveniences 
that travelling in the desert has connected with it. 
Their long, slow, rolling, or rocking gait, soon be- 
comes fatiguing. I have felt more fatigued in riding 
a dromedary twenty-five miles in a day, than I would 
in riding a good horse fifty. Yet without camels, the 
journey through the desert could not be performed. 

The exercise, however, of riding a dromedary in 
the desert, I cannot but regard as healthy. My 
health was continually on the improvement during 
our journey, and a better appetite I never enjoyed. 
To a city dyspeptic, such a ride would be one of the 
finest of things. I would not, however, recommend 
any person in a feeble state of health to undertake 
the journey of the desert. To be suddenly taken 
sick on the way, in absence of all medical aid, would 
be a most sad mishap. There would be no stopping 
and no accommodations for a sick person. A person, 
too, is liable, in one way or another, to be injured 
or wounded. In that case, a broken limb or a con- 
tusion on the body, would find but a poor remedy. 
The only hope of performing successfully that 
journey, must be in absence of severe wounds and 
dangerous illness, and then the traveller will be apt 
to find enough to try his patience, his courage, and 
his strength. 



HISTORY. 



241 



Passing up the valley north from Hebron a short 
distance, we turned up a valley which comes down 
from the north-east. Here, for some distance, the 
path is rudely paved or laid with rather large stones. 
Olive trees and vineyards abound on both sides, the 
latter being generally on the slopes of the hills, 
many of which are terraced. This valley is gene- 
rally assumed to be the Eshcol of the Old Testament, 
from whence the spies sent by Moses brought back 
the large cluster of grapes. — Num., xiii. 22. This is 
not improbable, from the fact that the spies came 
to Hebron, and the grapes in this valley are still 
said to be the finest in all the Holy Land. At the 
head of this valley, which is little more than half an 
hour's travel, the vineyards ceased, and we entered 
upon an open space, of rocky and sterile appearance. 
Soon after, we passed the ruins of a village, once 
inhabited by Christians. It is said the entire inhab- 
itants were massacred by the Mohammedans, and 
now there are no Christians in all the province of 
Hebron.* 

A short distance further, is a path leading off to 
the right, and a few rods in that direction is the 
foundation of a fortress, or some large building. 
We did not take time to dismount and go to it. It 
is said that the name of the house of Abraham is 
given to it, and that the place where we then were 
was probably the plain of Mamre. To me, the place 
looked too rocky and sterile to have been made the 
chosen abode of the patriarch, when the valleys be- 
low were so much more pleasant. A hasty obser- 
vation of this vicinity rather prepossessed me in fa- 



* Robinson. 
11 



242 



RUINED MOSQUE. 



vor of the valley of the reverend oak, mentioned be- 
fore. The subject, however, is not worthy of much 

controversy. 

Soon after this, on a hill at some, distance to our 
right was seen a ruined mosque. This in some way 
bears the name of the prophet Jonah, but for what 
cause I could not learn. Something like an hour 
farther, we passed a ruined tower of antique appear- 
ance. In the same vicinity is a fountain with a stone 
trough, and the ruins of a fortress. The stones used 
in this structure were of large dimensions, and the 
rocks adjacent had been hewn to a perpendicular 
front. Our road now lay open before us for some 
considerable distance, and soon we came to the ruins 
of another town with olive trees, tillage around, and 
a stone reservoir. In the adjacent rocks were a con- 
siderable number of sepulchres open and empty. 
Beyond this the scenery became broken, and the 
whole region appeared rocky and sterile. At a little 
past noon we reached the noted reservoirs called the 
Pools of Solomon. These are situated near the road- 
side, and at a distance of about three miles south of 
Bethlehem. There are three of them, all standing in 
a line of descent from each other, so that the water 
emptying into the first may discharge into the second, 
and from that into the third. They are built of mas- 
sive hewn stones, and are still in an excellent state 
of preservation. 

The upper pool is 380 feet long, 236 wide, and 25 
deep. The middle one is 423 feet long, 250 wide, 
and 39 deep. The lower one is 582 feet long, 207 
wide, and 50 deep. At the time of our visit there 
was but little water in either of them. At about a 



CAVE OF ADULLAM. 



243 



hundred yards distance is the fountain which sup- 
plies these reservoirs. The water is conveyed from 
these pools to Bethlehem and Jerusalem, by a small 
aqueduct, constructed of earthen pipe, about ten 
inches in diameter. It is not improbable that these 
pools once furnished water for the temple at Jerusa- 
lem, as they now do for the mosque of St. Omer. 
They bear strong marks of high antiquity ; and this 
place may be the site of one of king Solomon's houses 
of pleasure, where he made himself " gardens, and 
orchards, and pools of water." A few rods to the 
north of the upper pool is a fortress, built, undoubt- 
edly, by Saracen hands. There were a few troops 
in it ; and, before starting again, we partook of cof- 
fee with some of the officers. 

A short distance to the south of the pools, towards 
the region of the Dead Sea, is a large grotto, sup- 
posed to be the cave of Adullam, where David gath- 
ered his followers when pursued by Saul. This cave 
is a spacious labyrinth, supported by great pillars of 
the natural rock, and is perfectly dry. In this cave, 
too, it is said David cut off the skirt of Saul's gar- 
ment, while he was sleeping, and permitted him to 
go unhurt. 

To Bethlehem we took the western road, which 
brought us near Beit Jala. This is a large village, 
lying on the eastern slope of a hill ; and, like Beth- 
lehem, is inhabited by Christians. Bethlehem lay to 
our right ; and, after winding through a crooked and 
broken way, we arrived at the gate on the west side. 
We proceeded directly through the town without 
stopping, till we arrived at the level part of the ridge 
between it and the convent. 



244 



BETHLEHEM. 



This building covers a vast extent of ground ; and, 
from its high massive walls, rather resembles a for- 
tress. It encloses the church said to be built by the 
Empress Helena, over the spot that tradition conse- 
crates as the birth-place of our Saviour. The design 
of this church was originally that of a magnificent 
building ; but it was never perfectly finished. On 
each side is a row of tall, stately columns, support- 
ing a freize of wood, which still remains sound. The 
whole building is divided among the Romanists, 
Greeks, and Armenians. Each of these sects has its 
definite limits ; and there are also certain places 
which are common to all. Could the Christian visitor 
feel perfect confidence that all the holy places em- 
braced under this roof were really what they are 
pointed out to be, the emotions of his mind would be 
those of deep and devotional interest. But the 
honest traveller who visits the Holy Land will often 
find himself confused and disappointed, if not vexed 
and chagrined. The reader must be prepared for 
this. I experienced it many times most sensibly. I 
will, however, detail, as near as I can recollect, the 
most interesting things shown us in Bethlehem. 

The reader desires to be conducted to the place 
where the Saviour was born. This is said to be a 
grotto now under the church. To this the Greeks 
have an entrance directly at the side. That of the 
Romanists is by a longer and more distant passage, 
and was the one by which we entered. The room 
of the grotto is thirty-seven feet long, and eleven 
wide. The floor and walls are of a greenish mar- 
ble ; and the latter are set off with tapestry and 
paintings. Directly in front of the door by which 



THE MANGER. 



245 



we entered, at the farther end of the grotto, is a 
semicircular recess, lined and floored with marble. 
In the centre of this is a gilded star, bearing on it 
the inscription — " Hie natus est Jesus Christus de 
Virga" — here Christ was born of the Virgin. A 
large number of lamps, burning night and day, 
constantly throw their light on this as the birth- 
place of the Saviour of mankind. On the right, 
descending two steps, you pass into another cham- 
ber, paved and lined with marble. At one end is a 
stone block, hollowed out ; and this is shown as the 
manger in which the infant Saviour was laid. Above 
the altar is a picture representing a stable with 
horses and cattle ; and behind a piece of wicker- 
work are several lamps constantly burning. Direct- 
ly opposite, is the altar of the wise men, marking 
the place where they sat when they offered presents 
of gold, frankincense, and myrrh. Over this is a 
picture, representing them in the act of bestowing 
their gifts. They are all represented as kings, and 
one of them as an Ethiopian. 

While standing in the grotto of the Nativity, sev- 
eral female pilgrims (I took them to be Greeks) en- 
tered in the most still and solemn manner. They 
approached the spot marked as the birth-place, and 
there kneeled, seemingly engaged in the most ardent 
devotions. They sobbed and wept like children. 
This sight, with the sombreness of the whole scene 
around me, awakened in my own bosom a tenderness 
of feeling which I shall never forget. Whether I 
was standing in the very room where the Saviour of 
man was born, or not, I was standing in Bethlehem, 
his birth-place. It mattered little to know the very 



246 



CELEBBATED GROTTOES. 



spot, or to have it pointed out ; I knew he was born 
there. There the tidings of " peace on earth and 
good- will to men," had been proclaimed by heaven- 
ly messengers. Those very tidings of mercy and 
love, borne from nation to nation, and echoed from 
age to age, had sounded in my ears from childhood. 
I had, for many years, known their sweetness and 
consolation ; and now, coming like a pilgrim from 
a far distant land to the birth-place of the divine 
Redeemer, could I stand in Bethlehem without 
emotions never to be forgotten ? No — impossible ! 
The very place where I stood, seemed to me like 
holy ground. 

Tradition says, but on what authority I know not, 
that grottoes around Bethlehem were anciently used 
for stables. Hence, tradition has fixed upon a grotto 
as the place where the Saviour was born. Good 
old mother Helena, determining the precise spot in 
the fourth century, fitted up our Lord's birth-place 
like a palace, and built a church over it. If, indeed, 
the Son of God was born in a grotto-stable, this may 
be the one. Whether such kind of stables are now 
in use in Bethlehem, my short stay did not enable 
me to determine. 

On our way from the grotto of the Nativity, we 
were shown a large chamber called the School of 
St. Jerome. Here, it is said, that great saint in- 
structed his catechumens, and wrote his celebrated 
vulgate version of the Bible. Passing through a 
door into an adjoining room, the tombs of Jerome 
and the Roman matron Paula were "pointed out. 
Not far from this is a small chapel, dedicated to 
Joseph, the husband of Mary. Near the passage is 



BETHLEHEM. 



247 



a vault or pit, into which it is said the murdered in- 
nocents were thrown. The entrance to this is 
guarded by an altar and iron grating ; and over the 
altar is a coarse picture, representing the massacre 
of the infants. This pit, with the hand of one of 
these infants, which was shown us, with some other 
frivolous things, I sat down for just what they are 
worth. In returning back, we passed through the 
Greek chapel of the convent, where a number of 
monks were instructing a class of children in the 
catechism of their faith. 

Bethlehem is situated on the slope of a hill — is a 
compact-built town — and has a population of about 
four thousand. The houses are of stone, substan- 
tially built ; and the streets narrow and filthy. It 
is surrounded by olive and other trees, and has 
a pleasant appearance at a short distance. There 
was, formerly, a Mohammedan quarter in it ; but, 
after the rebellion of 1834, that portion of the town" 
was destroyed by Ibrahim Pacha. Now the popu- 
lation are entirely Christian. The vicinity, though 
rough and rocky, is said to be fertile ; and it has 
around it an appearance of thrift not frequenth r seen 
in the Holy Land. A valley, which the town over- 
looks, is represented as the place where the shep- 
herds were tending their flocks by night, when the 
angels announced to them the birth of the Saviour. 
And at about half a mile from the town, in a north- 
easterly direction, is shown the well of David, from 
which his young men procured him water when he 
was thirsting. 

After making our observations, we returned to 
the room of the Superior, and found the table spread 



24S 



DEPARTURE FOR JERUSALEM. 



with a very good dinner. This was a welcome 
circumstance on our part, as we had been fasting 
since early in the morning. On sitting down, we 
were served by the kind monks in such a liberal 
manner, as would make a person feel at home. 
Convents are, indeed, desirable places to travellers 
in the Holy Land, as they are the only places that 
furnish any thing like tolerable entertainment. The 
Superior was a man about thirty-five ; of an expres- 
sive, smiling countenance ; and very affable in his 
manners. He had on a long brown habit, girt 
round the waist with a braided cord, sandals on his 
feet, a long beard, and the top of his head shaved. 
His plain dress, however, was neat ; and his whole 
appearance prepossessing. We saw him afterwards 
in Jerusalem, and found him the same pleasant, 
social sort of a man. He spoke Italian. The other 
monks had a more ordinary appearance. 

Having one hour previously sent our men and bag- 
gage forward, we concluded to set out and reach 
Jerusalem that evening, distant about six miles. 
After presenting the Superior with a suitable com- 
pensation, and taking leave, we mounted our horses 
and returned to the gate by which we had entered 
the town. Soon we had crossed the valley in a 
north-easterly direction, and were climbing the 
mountain on the other side. Giving a last look to 
the Valley of the Shepherds, soon the interest with 
which I had regarded Bethlehem, was nearly lost in 
the more absorbing feeling with which I looked for- 
ward to Jerusalem. By our way was the tomb of 
Rachel. We halted to take a view of this. It is a 
small stone building, with a whitened dome ; and 



JERUSALEM, 



249 



within it is a tomb in the ordinary Mohammedan 
form, plastered over with mortar. The Jews make 
pilgrimages to this place ; and the interior walls 
are covered with names, many of them in Hebrew. 

Passing the convent of Mar Elyas, which stands 
on the brow of the high ridge overlooking Beth- 
lehem, we soon had our first view of the Holy City. 
From its high walls and sloping position from us, 
however, the view was rather imperfect. The dome 
of the mosque of St. Omer, and some buildings on 
Mount Zion, showed to better advantage. Long 
and ardently had I desired to see that hallowed 
place ; and now with what intensity of feeling did I 
gaze upon it ! Soon we were cantering our horses 
across the plain of Rephraim, in haste to enter be- 
fore the gates should be closed. Crossing the valley 
of Gihon, and winding up the hill on the west side of 
the city, we entered Jerusalem just as the sun was 
setting behind the hills of Judea. Two Turkish 
soldiers stood sentinels at the gate ; and over it, 
sluggishly hung the Turkish colors of red, bearing 
the crescent and star. On entering, the first per- 
sons we met were about half a dozen lepers, with 
bloated and ulcerated looks, who importuned us for 
alms in most piteous strains. They looked, indeed, 
like objects of commiseration. We were imme- 
diately conducted to the Latin convent, the only 
real asylum for strangers in the Holy City. 



11* 



250 



VIEW OF THE CITY. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Description of Jerusalem— Buildings and Streets— Bazars and Manufac- 
tories — Dress of the Inhabitants — Convents of the different Sects- 
Jews— American and English Missions — Church of the Holy Sepulchre 
— Stone of Unction — Description of the Sepulchre — Chapels — Cavalry 
■ — Impressions — Monkish Legends — Pool of Hezekiah — Site of the An- 
cient Temple— Mosque of St. Omer— Remnant of Ancient Wall— The 
Jews' Place of Wailing. 

Of the situation and external appearance of Jeru- 
salem, the reader will form the best idea by suppos- 
ing himself approaching from the north. At the 
distance of two miles out, he would stand on a rise 
of ground, and see before him a broad plain with 
some slight undulations, but sloping gradually to the 
south. Beyond this he would see the walls and 
domes of the Holy City. Advancing a short distance, 
he would cross the shallow bed of the Kedron, 
which sweeps round from the north-west. At that 
place of crossing, the valley of the Kedron is small ; 
but he would see it at his left, bending round to the 
south-east, and then to the south, deepening as it 
advances. It passes directly along the east side of 
the city, separating Jerusalem from the Mount of 
Olives. At that place it has become deep, and is 
called the valley of Jehosaphat. Passing south half 
a mile beyond the city, it takes a more easterly di- 
rection, and is known as the valley of the Kedron 
till it terminates at the Dead Sea. Advancing from 
his first position one mile, he would see at his right 
hand the shallow basin which forms the beginning 
of the valley of Gihon and Hinnom, both being but 
the continuation of the same valley. This valley 



THE TYR0PGE0X. 



251 



takes at first a south-east direction, deepening as it 
advances. Having become deep, it passes directly 
along the west side of the city to the lower pool of 
Gihon, where it takes the name of the valley of 
Hinnom. From thence it gradually winds round 
east, and at length unites with the valley of Jehosa- 
phat. Between these two valleys stands the city of 
Jerusalem. 

Within the city is a slight valley, passing from 
north to south. After advancing outside of the wall, 
it deepens rapidly, winds off south-east, and unites 
with the valley of Jehosaphat, leaving a low ridge 
of land between it and the valley of Hinnom. This 
is called the Tyropcen, or valley of the Cheesemon- 
gers. This valley separated what Josephus calls the 
upper and lower cities, or that part which was on 
Mount Zion west, the upper ; and that on Mount 
Moriah east, the lower. This valley within the 
walls, is slight, and probably is much filled up since 
the days of Josephus. This, doubtless, is also the 
case with other valleys then existing ; for the ground 
of the present city is much more level than that of 
the ancient. The southern wall of the present city 
runs across Mount Zion, leaving the greatest portion 
of it outside. Between the valley of Hinnom and 
the valley of the Cheesemongers, Mount Zion has a 
prominent appearance, running out southerly to 
nearly a point. The wall crossing the valley of the 
Cheesemongers, also crosses Mount Moriah, leaving 
a point of that range outside, called Ophel. There 
are other slight undulations within the walls ; but 
these mark all that are very prominent. The west 
part of the city is considerably higher than the east. 



7 

ii 

as*"* / - ... ; ; 

252 GATES OP JERUSALEM. 

The real shape of Jerusalem is rather difficult to 
describe, it being neither square nor oblong. The 
walls on the north and south sides especially, are 
very crooked ; and the distance from the north-east 
to the south-west corner of the city, is one quarter 
more than that from the north-west to the south-east. 
Its entire circumference was measured by Professor 
Robinson, in 1837, and found to be seventy-four yards 
less than two miles and a half. 

The wall surrounding the city has a stately ap- 
pearance, constructed of hewn stones, with towers 
and battlements. The exterior face is carried up 
higher than the interior part of the wall. This forms 
a broad, convenient walk for the defenders, while 
they are guarded in front by a breastwork with 
loopholes. On the inside there are stairs at conve- 
nient distances, to ascend the platform. On the 
outside, the height of the wall varies much, from the 
inequality of the ground. In some places it iaf not 
more than twenty feet high; while in others it is 
forty and even fifty. But, notwithstanding its ele- 
vation and imposing aspect, it would probably not 
form a very great obstacle to a well-disciplined be- 
sieging army. The number of Turkish troops in 
garrison while I was there, I did not learn. Their 
quarters are in the citadel, which is a strong fortress 
situated near the Bethlehem gate. Two sentinels 
are always standing at each gate of the city, who 
seem to take but little notice of any thing that 
passes out or in. 

There are, at present, but four gates to Jerusalem ; 
one at each of its sides. That on the north side is 
called the Damascus gate; that on the east side, the 



THE BAZARS. 



253 



gate of St. Stephen ; that on the south side, the Mt. 
Zion gate ; and that on the west, the Bethlehem or 
Jaffa gate. These are the names by which the 
gates are known by Franks, though the natives 
have others for them. There have been other 
gates, but they are now walled up. 

Those who enter Jerusalem expecting there to see 
the bustle and show of a European or American 
city, will be greatly disappointed. They will see no 
carriage of any kind, and find the streets remark- 
ably still. The houses are of hewn stone, generally 
high, and not unfrequently large, with flat roofs and 
domes. Like the houses at Hebron, there are often 
three and four domes to a house. On account of 
the scarcity of timber, these are designed as support- 
ers to the otherwise flat roofs. There is generally 
as much as one of these over every upper room in a 
house. The streets are narrow, very rudely paved, 
and generally quite filthy. Many of them are 
arched over in places, for a considerable distance. 
These arches give a sombre and gloomy appearance 
to those portions of the city. The streets generally 
cross at right angles. The bazars are situated at 
about the centre of the city, on and near the street 
running north to the Damascus gate. They are a 
few narrow lanes, roofed over, with small open 
shops at each side. These are occupied by mer- 
chants and mechanics ; and of the latter, I noticed 
the greatest number of shoemakers. The bazars 
were, in general, but poorly supplied. The market 
is furnished by peasants from neighboring villages, 
as but little appeared to be growing immediately 
around Jerusalem. Articles of provision, however, 



254 



DRESS, 



did not appear to be either scarce or dear. Every 
article for consumption is brought in, either on the 
backs of men and women, or on donkeys and horses, 
even to fuel. 

There are but few manufactures in Jerusalem ; and 
it exports nothing except what is carried away by 
pilgrims. The manufactory of soap is considerable, 
for which there are several establishments. At the 
time of Easter, when thousands of pilgrims are in 
the city, large quantities of perfumed soap are sold 
to them. The oil of olive is manufactured to con- 
siderable extent. A large amount of this article is 
consumed in lamps, especially in the churches ; as 
well as- large quantities of it used in the manufac- 
tory of soap. The natives also use much of it in 
their food. From the abundance of olives raised in 
the Holy Land, the oil is surprisingly cheap. Lea- 
ther is tanned to some extent. This is principally 
of goat-skin ; arid the shoes made are nearly all ot 
red and yellow morocco. These, too, are sold very 
low. The chief articles manufactured by the Chris- 
tians, both at Jerusalem and Bethlehem, are ro s 
saries, crucifixes, models of the Holy Sepulchre, and 
the like. These are carved of olive-wood, mother- 
of-pearl, or sometimes in the species of black stone 
found near the Dead Sea- Some of these are verj 
handsomely executed, and vast numbers of them all 
are sold to pilgrims. 

The dress of the native inhabitants is something 
similar to that worn in Egypt, except that the fe- 
males wear more white. When the best class of 
them walk out, they have a large piece of white 
cotton stuff thrown over the head, fastened under 



POPULATION. 



255 



the chin, and falling down to the feet. The Arab 
and Turkish women always wear veils, and yellow 
morocco boots with long, pointed toes. In the after 
part of the day, hundreds of these are seen walking 
in the Moslem burial-grounds around the city. But 
from the mingled population of Mohammedans, 
Jews, native Christians, and the large number of 
pilgrims seen there, Jerusalem presents almost 
every fashion of dress and every shade of complex- 
ion. 

The city is divided into different quarters. The 
main Frank, or Christian quarters are in the north- 
west part. These include the various convents, 
churches and residences of the different sects. The 
Jews' quarters are in the south part, particularly be- 
tween Mount Zion and the wall of the Mosque of 
St. Omer. It is the most filthy and wretched portion 
of the city. The entire population of Jerusalem, 
at the time I was there, was estimated at about \ 
16,000. Of these about five thousand are Jews, four \ 
thousand Christians, and the remainder Mohamme- 
dans, chiefly Arabs and Turks. This estimate I 
received from Mr. Whiting, American Missionary at 
Jerusalem, and Mr. Nicolayson, English Missionary 
to the Jews. 

Of the native Christians, the Greek Church has 
the greatest number under its influence ; that is, 
more than any other sect. They have in Jerusalem 
eight convents for men, containing in all, about 
sixty monks. The principal one is directly adjoin- 
ing the church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the roof 
of the church may be used as a terrace for its in- 
mates. All the others are minor establishments, 



256 



CONVENTS. 



chiefly used for the accommodation of pilgrims, and 
are kept by one or two monks and lay brethren. 
There are five convents of Greek nuns, containing 
in all about thirty-five. These, like the monks are 
all foreigners. 

The Latins have but one convent for monks, but it 
is a very spacious establishment. It covers several 
acres of ground, has massive walls like a fort, and 
is every way so constructed as to be capable of 
making a good defence. It is a community of itself, 
and has within it provisions for carrying on a variety 
of work. At present it contains between forty and 
fifty monks. Most of the European and American 
travellers take quarters in this convent. We quar- 
tered there during our stay in Jerusalem, and were 
favored with very tolerable accommodations. No 
definite charge is made for board, but on departing, 
each person is expected to leave a suitable com- 
pensation. 

The Armenians have a large monastery on Mount 
Zion, said to be the wealthiest in the city, with the 
splendid church of St. James. A short distance from 
that is a small convent of Armenian nuns. Outside 
of the walls on Mount Zion, they have what they 
call the house of Caiaphas, which, besides a church, 
serves as a convent, and is occupied by monks. 
Those of the Armenians not attached to the con- 
vents, are principally merchants, of whom a few 
may be reckoned in the population of Jerusalem. 

The Copts have a small convent on the north side 
of the pool of Hezekiah. There is a small convent 
of the Abyssinians, and also a similar establishment 
belonging to the Syrians. 



THE JEWS. 



257 



The Jews have a large synagogue at the foot of 
Mount Zion, and whether they have any other my 
notes do not serve me to say. Most of the Jews in 
Jerusalem and other parts of Palestine, are of Span- 
ish or Polish origin. Most of the former are descen- 
dants of such as were driven out of Spain in the 16th 
century, and who fled at that time into Palestine ; 
the stock having maintained a precarious existence 
in the Holy Land ever since. A large proportion of 
the Jews, however, are those who have come per- 
sonally from different parts of Asia and Europe, for 
the purpose of living in the midst of, and at last 
lying down in the sepulchres of their fathers. At 
Jerusalem they are a degraded and oppressed people, 
living for the most part in poverty and filth. I 
should doubt, from all that I heard, whether there is 
one real wealthy Jew in Jerusalem. Charities are 
sent to them from their brethern abroad, and on 
these they partly subsist. They are generally ig- 
norant, and of the most bigoted class. Of all around 
them, they are, perhaps, the least accessible by Pro- 
testant missionary laborers. Mr. Nicolayson has 
been a missionary to them for a considerable number 
of years, appears to be a good and devoted man, 
but has thus far been enabled to accomplish but 
little. 

An American mission has been established at 
Jerusalem for a number of years past. With the 
Rev. Mr. Whiting I formed a pleasing acquaintance. 
He is a gentlemen of talents and piety, but his labors 
have to encounter a fearful odds of bigotry and 
prejudice. To the native Christians he can have 
but very little access, and to the Mohammedans, 



258 



CHURCH OP ENGLAND. 



comparatively none. Those of the sects residing in 
Jerusalem are of the most ignorant and bigoted 
sort, constantly watched and guarded by their nu- 
merous priests and monks. The established church 
of England is now erecting in the Holy City, a costly 
church, and has already ordained and sent out a 
bishop of Jerusalem, to the no small jealousy of the 
other sects there. But what can the bishop of Jeru- 
salem do ? Where is the church, or where the com- 
municants of his diocese ? He certainly has none 
now, unless he has imported them with him, and 
time must determine whether he ever will have. 
A bishop without subjects is as inefficient as a general 
without men. The plain fact is, Jerusalem lives on 
pilgrimages, and is of almost all other places the 
least accessible by Protestant missionary labors. 
And yet it would seem that Protestantism should 
have some representation in the Holy City. 

One of the main objects of attraction in Jerusalem 
is the church of the Holy Sepulchre, situated in the 
north-west part of the city. It is a vast pile and as- 
sumes to cover not only the tomb of our Saviour, 
but that part of Calvary on which he was crucified. 
All the different sects of native Christians have 
places in this church which they call their own ; 
but the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians have the 
three largest chapels in it. The key of the church 
is kept by the governor of the city, and is opened 
only at fixed hours ; but at the time of Lent ap- 
proaching Easter, it will be sure to be open a part 
of every day. The entrance is from a small court 
on the east side, where persons will be seen selling 
crucifixes, beads and other trinkets. When the 



STONE OF UNCTION, 



259 



door is opened, there is always one or two Turks 
seated just within, to receive tribute from every 
pilgrim who enters. 

On entering, the individual finds himself in a very 
extensive room, which is properly the vestibule, or 
grand entry to every part of the entire building. 
This apartment is surmounted by a large dome, 
through which light shines. A few feet directly in 
front of the entrance is a large, flat marble stone, 
called the stone of unction : or that on which the 
body of our Lord is said to have been laid when 
taken from the cross, to be washed and prepared for 
the sepulchre. This stone is surmounted by an iron 
railing, and suspended above it are a number of 
silver lamps, always kept burning. Every pilgrim, 
on entering, advances to this stone, and kneeling, 
kisses it most devoutly. It has been acknowledged, 
however, by some of the monks, that this is not the 
true stone of unction, but is simply a covering placed 
over the genuine one, to protect it from being broken 
and carried off for relics. A little to the left of this 
is a small, circular railing, having within it a lamp. 
This is said to mark the place where the Marys sat, 
while the body was washed and anointed for the 
tomb. If the other is really the stone of unction, 
how was this last spot so exactly identified ? 

In front of these places is a large open area, sur- 
rounded with high, square columns, supporting a gal- 
lery above. In the centre of this area, and directly 
under the dome mentioned before, is a small oblong 
building about sixteen feet in length, twelve high, 
circular at the back, but square in front. Within 
this building is said to be the Holy Sepulchre. The 



260 



HOLY SEPULCHRE. 



entrance to the sepulchre is by a low narrow door on 
the front or north side. The first room is a kind of 
entry, and may be eight feet square and seven high. 
In the centre is a square block of marble, cut and 
polished and set up, not unlike a small seat or stool. 
This is pointed to as the stone that was rolled back 
from the door of the sepulchre, on which the angel 
sat. The Armenian monks, however, say they have 
the genuine stone in their chapel on Mount Zion. 
Both assertions are probably worth about the same, 
as it is not probable that either have the real one. 
The Greek pilgrim, however, kisses this block of 
marble as the real stone rolled back from the door of 
the sepulchre, and on which the angel sat when he 
announced to the women, " He is not here ; he has 
risen, as he said ; come see the place where the Lord 
lay." There are several lamps burning in this room. 

Bending the head considerably lower than before, 
the visitor enters through a low door into what is 
called the Sepulchre of our Lord. As a room, it 
would not exceed seven feet square, were there 
nothing else in it, and about as many high. Directly 
to the right of the entrance is a marble sarcophagus, 
about as high as a common oblong tombstone, and 
covered over with a thin marble slab. In this, say 
the monks, the body of our Lord was laid. The sar- 
cophagus occupies about one half of the room, 
leaving only space enough for three or four to enter 
at a time. The walls are of a greenish marble, 
handsomely polished. Directly over the sarcophagus 
are about forty lamps, some of them rich and beau- 
tiful, all of which are kept constantly burning. Let 
it be kept in mind that all this is in a building above 



CHAPEL OF THE APPARITION. 



261 



ground, and standing on the floor of the church. 
The room through which we passed in going into 
the sepulchre, has several small holes through the 
walls, out of which the Greek bishop causes holy 
fire to issue when he plays off that lying miracle to 
poor deluded pilgrims. This shameful farce is still 
performed on Easter. 

Around the open space, and immediately contigu- 
ous to the sepulchre, are several small recesses with 
altars for the Abyssinians, Jacobites, Nestorians, Sy- 
rians, Copts, and Maronites, who have not, like the 
Greeks, Latins, and Armenians, large chapels in the 
body of the church. To the west, about in range 
with the front part of the sepulchre, is an opening 
or room, forming a small chapel. On one side is a 
gallery containing a very good organ, and the whole 
place has a very neat appearance. This is called 
the Chapel of the Apparition, marking the place 
where Christ appeared to Mary after his resurrection. 
Returning again to the sepulchre, and taking a north- 
east direction, along the wall on the left hand side, 
are a number of small recesses with altars, marking 
certain holy places. One marks the place where 
the soldier who pierced the Saviour with a spear 
when hanging on the cross, returned and wept over 
his trangression. This is something not named in 
the sacred account. Another marks the place where 
the centurion stood, when he cried out, " This is the 
Son of God." Another marks the place where the 
Saviour was crowned with thorns ; and under the 
altar is the stone on which he sat. Another stands 
where the soldiers cast lots for his garments. Near 
this is the Chapel of the Cross. Descending twenty- 



262 



MONKISH LEGEND. 



eight marble steps, the visitor enters a large, low 
room, of about forty feet square, dimly lighted with 
a few small lamps. The roof is supported by four 
large columns. In front of the steps is an altar, on 
the right of which is the seat on which it is said the 
Empress Helena sat while the workmen were dig- 
ging to find the cross ; she having been warned of 
the place in a dream. Descending again fourteen 
steps, another room is entered but dimly lighted and 
hung with red tapestry. A large marble slab, hav- 
ing on it the figure of the cross covers the pit in 
which it is said the cross was found. 

But the story of finding the cross, is a strange 
monkish legend. The Empress Helena had dreamed 
where it was to be found, covered up deep under 
rubbish. Workmen were employed to make the 
search, and she sat watching them with intense in- 
terest while they were digging. Three crosses were 
dug up near together ; but the question now to be 
settled was, to which one had our Lord been nailed ? 
Helena was not more zealous in hunting for places 
and things, than fertile in expedients to identify 
them. A sick child was brought and laid on all 
three of the crosses, and strange to tell, when it 
touched a certain one, it was made instantly well ! 
This, of course, was proof enough of the true cross. 
In the same search, I think it was, the empress also 

I found Adam's skull ! which rolled out of the rent 
made in the rock by the earthquake ! There is now 
in the church a large monument over the skull of 
Adam, and a monk pointed us to it with all the 
gravity imaginable. 

At the termination of the row of recesses I have 



CALVARY. 



263 



named, the visitor arrives at the foot of Calvary. 
Here he ascends a marble staircase of eighteen 
steps, which brings him on the top of Calvary : or in 
other words, into a chapel about twenty feet square, 
said to cover the place where our Lord was cruci- 
fied. It is paved with marble in mosaic, and hung 
on all sides with silken tapestry. At the west end 
of this room is an altar, over which several lamps 
were faintly burning. From the right of this, ex- 
tending a space eastward, hung a strip of red tapes- 
try. The right hand of this marks the place where 
our Lord was nailed to the cross. Directly in front 
of the altar are three holes in the rock, each covered 
with a silver plate with holes through them. The 
centre hole was considerably in advance of the other 
two. These, it is said, are the holes where the 
three crosses were set. The visitor is simply per- 
mitted to advance and put his hand into the holes. 
To the right of these, near by, is a rent shown in 
the rock, said to be caused by the crucifixion. This 
is all that is to be seen on Calvary. 

Descending again to the great vestibule of the 
church, the tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus were 
shown us, and also the stone to which the Saviour 
was tied when scourged before Pilate ; with some 
other things very uncertain and improbable. The 
reader, no doubt, is convinced that all those objects 
are enough to be concentrated under one roof. 

The Greek department, or chapel, is the best in 
the establishment. It is neatly fitted up with costly 
gildings, and has some pretty good paintings. In 
the middle of it I noticed a kind of pillar on the 
top of which was marked " the centre of the world" 



264 



IMPRESSIONS. 



What wise heads it must have taken, and what 
immense labor of computation and calculation to 
arrive at this fact ! The centre of the world in the 
middle of a Greek chapel in Jerusalem ! ! Why this 
turns Capt. Symmes's philosophy all out of doors, 
besides blowing up Copernicus, Galileo and Sir 
Isaac Newton ! What a marvellous discovery ! 

During my stay in Jerusalem, I visited the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre several times. I witnessed 
the procession of the Latin monks, dressed in their 
white robes, with burning tapers in their hands, 
passing round the church, stopping at each pre- 
tended holy place, and there chanting hymns and 
saying prayers. But to me the ceremonies were 
empty, unmeaning, and destitute of those enliven- 
ing devotions which pure spiritual Christianity 
infuses. I envied not the faith of those who could 
believe the places there pointed out to be as holy 
as represented. When I ascended what they call 
Calvary, to me it bore no resemblance to the 
Golgotha of Scripture. When I entered the pre- 
tended sepulchre, I could but exclaim, "surely, this 
is not the place where the Lord lay." Every thing 
around those pretended scenes indicated error and 
delusion. I felt chagrined when I looked upon the 
deception and chicanery that ignorant monks were 
there playing off upon the more ignorant multitude 
of deluded pilgrims flocking around them. I always 
passed out of the church of the Holy Sepulchre with 
feelings of disappointment, bordering on disgust. 
Calvary and the Saviour's Tomb are things too holy 
to be made the subjects of trickery and deception. 
Better had they been utterly locked up by Moslem 



VIA DOLOROSA. 



265 



power, and been rendered forever inaccessible to 
Christian feet 5 than that their names should be 
affixed to spots in no way identifying them. 

We know from Scripture that our Lord was 
crucified without the gates of Jerusalem. From 
the location now shown as Calvary and the Tomb, 
they could not have been without the walls of the 
ancient city. They are some distance within the 
walls now and must have been then. I had indulg- 
ed some faint hope, notwithstanding all I had read 
on the subject, that on visiting Jerusalem, I should 
be enabled to satisfy myself of the location of 
Calvary, if not of the Tomb. But this I found 
impossible. We are unable to learn from Scripture, 
on what side of the city Calvary was situated. We 
know not in what direction they took the Saviour 
to crucify him. The most natural conclusion would 
be, that the place was near a great road leading 
from one of the gates. Such a spot would only be 
found on the western or northern side of the city, 
on the roads leading towards Joppa or Damascus. 
Probably Calvary is one of the small eminences 
either to the north or north-west of Jerusalem, as 
there are, near by, several such in those directions. 

The street called the Via Dolorosa, extends east- 
ward from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to the 
gate of St. Stephen. On this street monkish tradi- 
tion has concentrated nearly all the scenes connect- 
ed with the crucifixion; and their legends embody 
much more than is recorded by the Evangelists. 
On this street they point the stranger to Pilate's 
palace, now occupied by the present governor of 
Jerusalem, the place where the Saviour was accused 

12 



266 



POOL OF HEZEKIAH. 



and condemned to be crucified. Along this street 
they sa}^ he bore his cross. Here one may see, if he 
pleases, the place where the Saviour, fainting under 
his burden, leaned against the wall of a house ; and 
the impression of his shoulder remains unto this 
day. Another place is shown where he fainted and 
fell down, and Simon, the Cyrenean, was made to 
take the cross. On this street, too, are shown the 
houses of the rich man and Lazarus, in the parable. 
One would judge from present appearances, that the 
beggar was as well lodged as his wealthy neighbor. 
But enough of these monkish fables. 

A reservoir called the Pool of Hezekiah, is situated 
a short distance south-west from the church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, and bears the marks of antiquity. 
Its length is said to be 240 feet, and its breadth 144. 
Its depth may, perhaps, be ten or twelve feet. The 
bottom is of rock, and covered with cement. There 
are .also steps on the west side to descend into it. 
It is supplied with water in the rainy season, by an 
aqueduct from the upper Pool of Gihon, and when I 
saw it, it was about half full. Of king Hezekiah, it 
is recorded that he " made a pool and conduit, and 
brought water into the city." Likewise, that " he 
stopped the upper watering course of Gihon, and 
brought it straight down to the west side of the 
city of David." 

A short distance south-west of the gate of St. 
Stephen, is a very large and deep pool or trench, 
which the monks have been in the habit of pointing 
to as the Pool of Bethesda. Several travellers have 
supposed that at the south-west corner of this ex- 
cavation, they could discern two of the five ancient 



MOSttUE OF OMER. 



267 



porches. I am convinced that such supposition is a 
mistaken one ; that this is not, and never was, the 
Pool of Bethesda. I agree with Professor Robinson, 
that this pretended pool was only a trench, or fosse 
to the ancient tower of Antonius, which, according 
to the description given by Josephus, must have 
stood in that vicinity. This trench had once, no 
doubt, the means of being filled with water, but it is 
now dry, and according to good authority, has been 
for two centuries. I am, however, inclined to think 
that we found the Pool of Bethesda, of which I shall 
speak hereafter. 

The site of the ancient temple is now occupied 
by the Mohammedan mosque of Omer. Of the 
identity of the place, there can be no reasonable 
doubt. It is on the summit of Moriah, in the east 
part of Jerusalem, and is surrounded by a high, 
massive wall, of which the wall of the city consti- 
tutes the east part. The wall surrounding the| 
mosque, encloses an area of more than ten acres, 
which, as far as I could discern, was level and i 
smooth. The gate of entrance is on the west side, ' 
which all Christians are forbidden to pass. On 
arriving at the gate, however, and not seeing it 
guarded, we had the presumption to pass a few feet 
through it. Soon there was an uproar. A party of 
priests, familiars, and I know not who, (there was a 
large negro among them,) advanced towards us 
with clubs, hallooing, and motioning for us to go 
out. Approaching near to us, we were soon made 
to know that we were not safe to remain, and con- 
sequently made a rather abrupt retreat through the 
gate. Shame on Mohammedanism and its ignorant 



VIEW OF Stf. OMER. 



barbarian minions, that a Christian must be insulted, 
and even his life threatened, if he advances to take 
a near view of the hallowed spot on which once 
stood the temple of the Most High. But so it is ; 
"Jerusalem is trodden down by the Gentiles," 
and will be "till the time of the Gentiles shall be 
fulfilled." We, however, had a near view of the 
mosque of St. Omer. It is, indeed, a beautiful 
edifice ; large, high, well proportioned, and sur- 
mounted by a splendid dome. The whole building 
appeared to be covered with green enamel, (a most 
sacred color among Moslems,) which gives it a 
beautiful lustre. But what is this compared with 
the beautiful temple that once adorned that hallow- 
ed spot ? That dazzling edifice, once " the joy of 
the whole earth," is now utterly swept away, and 
even its sacred site is desecrated by a temple of the 
Arabian imposture. Once the sacred temple was 
the gathering place of the people of God. Now its 
substitute is the resort of Mohammedan pilgrims, 
and the " Koran or the sword," is the threatened 
mandate to any Christian who dares to enter it. 

Near the south-west angle of the wall that sur- 
rounds the mosque, is evidently the lower part of an 
ancient arch. It now constitutes a portion of the 
wall, but is wholly unlike the wall with which it is 
embodied. The stones are exceedingly large, and 
are so laid as to mark the lower part of the arch to 
a bridge, or something else. My conclusion is, that 
they belonged to an ancient bridge, which Josephus 
informs us Solomon constructed over the valley of 
the Cheesemongers, extending from the wall of the 
Temple to the Xystus on Zion. If any remnant of 



BURIAL GROUND. 



269 



wall once connected with the Temple is now to be 
found, this is probably all that remains. 

Near this is the place where the Jews purchase 
the right of approaching the site of their temple, and 
there to pray and wail over its ruins and the down- 
fall of their nation. It is approached by a narrow, 
crooked lane, which there terminates at the wall in 
a small open space. For centuries the despised and 
down-trodden children of Abraham have repaired to 
this consecrated spot, to mourn over their ruined 
temple and scattered people. It is known as " the 
Jews' place of wailing." 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Place of St. Stephen's Martyrdom — Tomb of Joseph and Mary — Garden 
of Gethsemane — Mount of Olives — Chapel of Ascension — -Hebrew Ce- 
metery — Four large Tombs — Village of Siloam — Fountain of the Vir- 
gin, or Pool of Bethesda— Pool of Siloam— House of Caiaphas— Tomb 
of David — Burial Grounds — Lepers— Pools of Gihon — Valley of Hin- 
nom — Potter's Field — Well of Nehemiah — Tombs of the Kings — Wil- 
derness of St. John— Convent of the Cross — Valley of Rephaim — Valley 
of Elah. 

Early on the morning of the 6th of February, we 
concluded to make an excursion outside the walls. 
Having procured a guide, we passed out at the gate 
of St. Stephen, on the east side. Just to the right of 
the gate, on the edge of Moriah, is a Moslem burial- 
ground, with a large number of monuments. This 
is their most sacred burial-place at Jerusalem, it 
being near the mosque of St. Omer. Beyond this, 
and close by the path, is a small ledge of table-rock. 
This is pointed to as the place where Stephen, the 
first Christian martyr, was stoned to death. It 
is a wonder that the practice of erecting churches 



270 



TOMB OF JOSEPH AND MARY. 



on almost every sacred site, has not fixed one here. 
No monument marks the place, and all depends on 
mere vague tradition. 

The path winds in a zig-zag manner down into 
the valley of Jehosaphat to a low stone bridge that 
crosses the bed of the Kedron, which was wholly 
dry. It bears marks of sometimes having consider- 
able water in it, but probably this is only at rainy 
seasons. No water was running in it while we 
were at Jerusalem. Directly after passing over the 
stone bridge just named, we came to the tomb of 
Joseph and Mary. A small part of the building 
shows on the top of the ground, but the greatest por- 
tion is below. We descended a broad flight of stone 
steps, which brought us to a large marble door, 
opening into a subterranean church, excavated in 
the solid rock. From this, passing another flight of 
long stone steps, nearly fifty in number, we entered 
the principal chamber of the establishment. On the 
right, in a large recess, is the tomb of the Virgin. 
Over this is an altar, and suspended over that is a 
picture representing her death-bed, with the Son of 
God attending by her side, to comfort her and 
receive her dying blessing. This, to be sure, is a 
tender domestic relation, but in this case very inap- 
propriate, when applied to the Virgin and the Holy 
Son of God. There is a splendid . display of lamps 
and other ornaments in this building; and it is, 
finally, one of the neatest establishments I visited in 
Jerusalem. There is, however, not the least proba- 
bility of its being the real tomb of those whose names 
it bears, for there is good historical evidence that 
Mary, at least, died at Ephesus. 



GETHSEMANE. 



271 



A few rods beyond this tomb, the road separates 
at nearly a right angle ; one path going down the 
valley, and the other extending east, up to the Mount 
of Olives. Directly within this angle of roads, and 
at the very foot of the Mount of Olives, is the Garden 
of Gethsemane. It is a level plot of ground, nearly 
square, and surrounded by a rough, broken stone 
wall. According to my survey, I found it forty-seven 
paces one way, and forty-three the other. The 
ground looked sterile, covered with small pebbles, 
and nothing was growing in it except eight large 
olive-trees, which bore a very aged appearance. 
There is nothing peculiar in it to mark the place, 
and a person might pass repeatedly by Gethsemane 
without supposing this to be the consecrated spot of 
our Saviours agony. But while standing within 
the rude enclosure, I could see evidence of the true 
location — it must be the place. Without paying 
much heed to our guide's story of the precise place 
where the disciples were found sleeping, or the 
exact spot where our Saviour was when he prayed 
and " sweat, as it were, great drops of blood falling 
to the ground/'* or under which olive-tree it was that 
he was betrayed into the hands of the guard ; my 
mind was absorbed with the thought, Am I standing 
in Gethsemane ? The very thought was overwhelm- 
ing ! I gave free vent to the tender emotions of my 
soul ! During my stay in Jerusalem, I visited re- 
peatedly this retired spot. One day alone, I seated 
myself under one of the olive-trees in the Garden. 
All was silent around me. High above me were the 
towering walls of the Holy City. Through them 
seemed to penetrate no sound of human life. The 



272 



MOUNT OF OLIVES. 



place was almost like the lonely desert. I gave 
myself up to reflection. Here, near me, occurred 
the awful scene of "agony and bloody sweat," on 
the night in which the Redeemer of man was be- 
trayed. Here Heaven itself was touched with suf- 
fering and sympathy for a lost and ruined world. 
Here, in submission, the Saviour prayed, "O, my 
Father, if this cup may not pass away from me 
except I drink of it, thy will be done!" My mind 
was absorbed in feelings and reflections which I 
shall never forget. I felt, indeed, that I was sur- 
rounded by associations of the most hallowed cha- 
racter. 

From the Garden a path leads directly eastward 
up the Mount of Olives. The sides and summit of 
the mountain are spotted with olive-trees, though, 
perhaps, not so thickly as in ancient times. They 
are still said, however, to flourish spontaneously. 
The Mount consists properly of four ranges of differ- 
ent altitudes. About half-way up, a ruined monas- 
tery is said by the Monks to mark the spot where 
our Saviour wept over Jerusalem and uttered the 
prediction of its awful destruction. From this place, 
the building of the temple must have shown in 
beautiful prospect, as the mosque of St. Omer is 
here seen to good advantage. From the summit, 
the roof of about every building in the city may be 
seen. 

On the top of the mountain is a wretched, filthy 
Arab village, in which is a small chapel, erected, it 
is said, over the spot from which the Saviour as- 
cended. The ignorant pilgrims believe, too, that the 
print of his foot was left in the rock from whence he 



CHAPEL OF ASCENSION. 



273 



ascended, and may there be seen unto this day. It 
is shown by the monks, in the centre of the church,, 
with all the lying gravity that pious fraud can as- 
sume. We know, however, that this is not the 
place of our Lord's ascension. Luke expressly tells 
us, that " he led his disciples out as far as Bethany, 
and there was carried up into heaven." — Luke, xxiv. 
51. Not far from the Church of Ascension, is a low, 
stone building, called by our guide, "the Tomb of 
the Forty Prophets." In it are several monuments, 
which have, indeed, a very ancient appearance. 

We returned down the Mount by a more southern 
path, which led us to the large Jewish cemetery in 
the valley of Jehoshaphat, or partly on the western 
slope of the Mount of Olives. This is, indeed, a 
spacious field of the dead. To appearance, nearly 
every grave is covered with a flat marble or granite 
slab, bearing a brief inscription in Hebrew. Here, 
nearly opposite their ruined temple, many wan- 
derers of that remarkable race come to mingle their 
bones with that of their fathers. They expect their 
Messias will stand upon the Mount of Olives, the 
mountain shall cleave asunder, Israel shall rise from 
beneath it, and all nations be judged in the valley 
of Jehoshaphat. 

On the west side of this cemetery are four tombs 
of peculiar construction, generally known as the 
tombs of Jehoshaphat, Absalom, James, and the 
prophet Zachariah. The tomb of Absalom is hewn 
out of the solid rock, and presents the appearance 
of a building twenty-four feet square. It is orna- 
mented with two columns and two half columns on 
a side, of the Ionic order, with pilasters at the cor- 
12* 



274 



TOMii OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 



ners. On different parts of it are several sculptured 
ornaments. The upper part is constructed of mason- 
work, but put together in the nicest manner. On 
the top is a small dome or cupola, running up like a 
low spire, and spreading a little at the top, like an 
opening flower. The entire structure would proba- 
bly measure forty feet in height. The interior exhi- 
bits a room of considerable size, into which a hole 
has been broken through one of the sides. , It, how- 
ever, contains nothing. Around it is a very consid- 
erable ridge of small pebbles, caused by both Jews 
and Mohammedans throwing stones at this tomb as 
they pass, in token of their contempt to the memory 
of the rebellious son of David. 

Nearly in rear of this is the tomb of Jehoshaphat, 
" the king of Judah, who walked in the ways of the 
Lord." It is wholly subterranean — is excavated m 
the solid rock — and its door is the only ornament. It 
was open — water was trickling from its walls — and 
the interior appeared to be nearly filled with sand 
and crumbling stones. It has a few sculptured 
ornaments round the door, and presents nothing 
more, worthy of note. 

Just south of Absalom's, is the tomb of James, but 
elevated considerably higher in the rock. It has a 
relief portico of four columns in front, and an en- 
trance on the side. This tomb stands at the mouth 
of an excavated cavern, which is said to be of large 
dimensions. Tradition says the apostle James retir- 
ed to this cavern during the interval between the 
crucifixion and resurrection of our Lord. Now, his 
tomb is placed there. 

Next south stands the tomb of Zachariah, the pro- 



SILOAM. 



275 



phet, who was " slain between the temple and the 
altar." It is in square form, about twenty feet on a 
side ; the rock having been cut away so as to form 
a passage round it. Its height is about eighteen or 
twenty feet, without any known entrance. Each 
side is decorated with two columns and two half 
columns ; and around the cornice is sculptured orna- 
mental work. In relation to all these four tombs, it 
is uncertain to what age they belong, or whether they 
were ever designed for the persons whose names 
they bear. Many think the style of architecture 
precludes the supposition that they are of Jewish 
workmanship. 

A few rods to the south of these tombs is the small 
ruined village of Siloam. It is scarcely anything 
else than ruins, and miserable stone hovels. Many 
of these are built over caves or excavated sepulchres; 
and many sepulchres, without any addition, are used 
for dwellings. A few miserable Arab families main- 
tain a wretched subsistence among these ruins. 
There are a large number of open sepulchres in the 
vicinity. Directly back of these ruins is the eminence 
called the "Mount of Offence," in allusion to the 
idolatrous worship set up by Solomon " in the hill 
that is before Jerusalem." 1 Kings, xi. 7, 8. 

A little higher up the valley of Jehoshaphat, and 
on the west side, is situated what is called "the 
Fountain of the Virgin." The cavity of this fountain 
is deep ; and the passage of descent to it appears to 
have been cut westward through the solid rock. 
The visitor descends sixteen long stone steps, which 
brings him to a level place of about ten or twelve 
feet. He then descends ten steps more, which brings 



276 



TROUBLING OF THE WATERS. 



him to the water. The fountain is supposed to be 
some ten or fifteen feet lower than the actual bed of 
the Kedron. The basin of the fountain at the foot 
of the steps may be fifteen feet long, five or six 
wide, and four or five deep. The bottom is strewed 
with small pebbles, and the water flows off by a 
low passage southward. This flow is through an 
excavated passage in the rock, to the fountain of 
Siloam, which I shall notice presently. At the time 
of our first visit to this fountain, a small Arab girl 
came with her pitcher to get water. We drank 
of it, found it clear, not very cold, and a little 
brackish. 

I had read in Professor Robinson's Researches of 
the occasional irregular flow, sudden rise, and occa- 
sional rumbling commotion seen in this fountain. 1 
did not expect to be so fortunate as to witness it my- 
self ; but while I was standing on the lower step, 
looking in the water, I suddenly perceived it was 
rising ; and soon I was obliged to step higher to 
keep my feet from being wet. The water appeared 
in some commotion, bubbling in different places, 
and making a gurgling noise as it passed off. In a 
few minutes all was over, and the water settled 
back again to the usual depth. I can but believe, 
with Professor Robinson, that this fountain is the 
real Pool of Bethesda. The Sheep Gate appears to 
have been near the Temple ; and the wall of the 
ancient city probably ran along this valley. May 
not that gate have stood near this place ; and may 
not this fountain be the real Bethesda ? 

Of the real cause of this " troubling of the waters '* 
the natives can give no reasonable account. They 



POOL OF SILOAM. 



277 



say that " a great dragon lies within the fountain : 
when he is awake, he stops the water; when he 
sleeps, it flows." " In the account of the Pool of 
Bethesda, situated near the Sheep Gate," says Pro- 
fessor Robinson, " we are told ' an angel went down 
at a certain season and troubled the water,' and 
then, whosoever first stepped in was made whole. 
John, v. 2 — 7. There seems to have been here no 
special medical virtue in the water itself ; but only 
he who first stepped in after the troubling, was 
healed. Does not this 'troubling' of the water 
look like the irregular flow of the fountain just de- 
scribed ? " 

Passing down the western side of the valley to an 
old mulberry tree, which is said to mark the place 
where the prophet Isaiah was sawn asunder, we 
turned up the valley of the Cheesemongers, and in 
a few minutes were standing by the Pool of Siloam. 
This stands in an open space on the south side of 
the hill Ophel. It is a small stone reservoir, but of 
considerable depth, with two flights of stone steps 
by which to enter it. This is fed from a basin 
above, w T hich is excavated in the rock ; and that is 
filled from the Fountain of the Virgin, which flows 
through a subterranean pass to the Pool of Siloam. 
A small stream flows off from this pool towards the 
bed of the Kedron, but soon disappears among the 
dry sand and pebbles. There are several small 
gardens in the vicinity, which are irrigated from this 
fountain ; and in them, things appeared to be flour- 
ishing, though early in February. This is the pool 
in which our Lord directed the blind man to go and 
wash. John, ix. Of its real identity I believe there 



278 



TOMB OF KING DAVID. 



is no dispute. I drank of its water, and found it 
precisely the same as that of the Fountain of the 
Virgin. 

Passing up the valley of the Cheesemongers, we 
were soon standing on that part of Mount Zion 
which is without the walls. There are a number of 
scattering buildings situated here, among which two 
or three are worthy of notice. Here stands an Ar- 
menian convent, enclosing a small church, which is 
said to occupy the place where stood the palace of 
Caiaphas, the high priest. We were conducted 
through it. Here, in a small court, are to be seen 
the monuments covering the graves of the Armenian 
Patriarchs of Jerusalem. Under the altar of the 
church they profess to show the very stone that 
closed the door of the Holy Sepulchre. They pre- 
tend, also, to show the prison of our Lord, or the 
place in which he was put when brought before 
Caiaphas. And they even tell the spot where Peter 
denied his Master, and the court where the cock 
crew. The church has a rich and splendid appear- 
ance. 

A short distance south of this is a large stone 
building, said to cover the tomb of King David. To 
gain admittance, we had to pay two piastres each to 
the Turkish keeper. We were then conducted into 
a large room, which is said to be directly over the 
tomb of David ; but were strictly prohibited going 
down to the tomb, No Christian must be allowed 
that privilege. Directly above this is the " upper 
room " in which our Lord is said to have instituted 
his Supper on the night in which he was betrayed. 
It is a large, dreary-looking chamber, about fifty feet 



LEPERS. 



279 



long, and thirty wide. This whole building has an 
antique appearance. There is good evidence that it 
was used as a Christian church at an early day ; and 
tradition says it was here the disciples were gather- 
ed together on the day of Pentecost. Not far from 
this, the monks point out the house of the Apostle 
John ; but we had so little faith in what they told 
that we did not enter it. 

On Mount Zion are several burial grounds, be- 
longing to different sects of Christians. The first is 
that of the Armenians ; south of this is that of the 
Greeks ; and more to the eastward that of the Latins. 
In all of them the only mark of graves is a flat stone 
laid upon them, with an inscription. The mission- 
aries have also purchased, near by, a small plot of 
ground for a Protestant cemetery. It is walled 
around, and has a door with a lock. 
» Passing into the city at the Mount Zion gate, we 
noticed, a little to our right, some miserable-looking 
hovels, inhabited by leprous persons. I frequently 
saw persons of this class in Jerusalem and other 
parts of the Holy Land. Their countenances are 
red and bloated ; their eyes bloodshot ; and their 
voices dry and husky. They exhibit sores ; and I 
saw some whose fingers had fallen off the hand, and 
others partly. Their children are said to be healthy 
till they arrive at the age of puberty, when the fatal 
disease begins to make its appearance. They may 
live to the age of forty, or more ; but drag out a 
miserable existence. They intermarry with each 
other, only ; and appear to live principally by beg- 
ging. 

Early on the morning of the 7th of February, we 



280 



VALLEY OF HINNOM. 



concluded to make a general examination of the 
Valley of Hinnom. Passing out at the Bethlehem 
gate on the west, and winding round the northerly 
side of the valley, we soon arrived at the Upper 
Pool of Gihon, situated westerly, about fifty rods 
from the north-west angle of the city wall. It was 
by the side of this pool that Zadoc, the priest, and 
Nathan, the prophet, anointed Solomon king over 
Israel. " And they blew the trumpet, and all the 
people said, God save King Solomon." 1 Kings, i. 
39. The sides of this pool are constructed of hewn 
stones and cement, with steps at the corners to 
descend into it. It is over 300 feet long, and over 
200 broad. The depth is 18 feet. It was about 
half full of water. Near this pool is a spacious Mo- 
hammedan burial ground, in which are many monu- 
ments, once splendid, but a portion of them are now 
fast going to decay. On this side of the city is 
spread out the large plain of Rephaim, which, 
though fertile to appearance, is very little cultivated. 

Following down the valley, we soon came to the 
Lower Pool of Gihon. This is situated about oppo- 
site the south-west angle of the city wall. This 
pool is considerably larger and deeper than the 
upper one. A road crosses on the causeway at the 
south end. Along this, fountains have been erected 
by the Moslems, which were probably once fed by 
the aqueduct from the Pools of Solomon, which 
passes near by. They wera wholly dry. 

Below this pool the valley takes the name of Hin- 
nom, or more fully, " The Valley of the Son of Hin- 
nom." This valley is of abominable notoriety in 
Jewish sacred history, where they practised the 



THE POTTER'S FIELD. 



281 



horrid rites of Baal and Moloch, and "burned their 
sons and daughters in fire." Below the pool last 
named, the valley winds easterly, till, turning round 
the south end of Mount Zion, it assumes an east 
course. There are a considerable number of olive 
trees growing in it ; and I saw, in one place, apricot 
trees in full bloom. Several spots in it were under 
cultivation. The south side of the valley is an 
almost perpendicular ledge, of from twenty to forty 
feet high. This face of the hill is perforated with 
sepulchres the whole length of the way. Some 
of them are neatly wrought and highly garnished ; 
but all appeared to be open and rifled of their con- 
tents — at least so it was with all that we entered, 
and we examined a considerable number. 

Pursuing our course onward, we came to the 
Potter's Field, bought with the thirty pieces of silver. 
This is situated on the south side of Hinnom, near 
its junction with Jehoshaphat. The visitor has to 
climb up the ledge by means of rude stairs cut in 
the rock. The field is not marked by any boun- 
dary ; but is merely a level plot of some two acres. 
There are no marks of graves in it ; though it has 
probably been used as a burial place for the poor, 
from the time it was purchased. It contains a 
large, stone-built charnel house, now in rather a 
ruinous condition. This covers a deep pit, which 
is about the size of the building. An opening at 
each end, enabled us to look in. On the bottom of 
the pit, which might be thirty feet deep, were a 
considerable number of skulls, other bones, and 
several nearly entire skeletons in a state of decay. 
There was no appearance of any body having been 



282 



GROTTO OF JEREMIAH. 



thrown in very recently. But the custom long has 
been, when a poor individual died at Jerusalem, 
without friends or money, the body was thrown into 
this pit, and there left to rot in the open air. The 
scene was deeply revolting, and of course did not 
invite a lengthy stay. 

In the Valley of Jehoshaphat, a little below the 
entrance of the Hinnom, is what is called the Well 
of Nehemiah or Job. It is walled up with large 
hewn stones, in an irregular square form, with 
an arch at one side, and is said to be 125 feet deep. 
There is a rude stone building over it, furnished 
with two large stone baths. The water is sweet, 
but not very cold. It is most probable that this 
well is the En-Rogel mentioned in Joshua, xv. 7, 8» 
It has the appearance of great antiquity. In that 
part of the valley are a considerable number of 
olive trees ; and just north are some gardens, rather 
poorly cultivated. These are known by the name 
of the King's Gardens. 

At about eighty rods north-east of the Damascus 
gate, is what the monks call the Grotto of Jeremiah. 
It is situated in a round, isolated, rock)- hill, the top 
of which is occupied as a Mohammedan burial 
ground. Jeremiah is said to have composed his 
book of Lamentations in this grotto. It was closed 
up, and we were unable to enter it. Less than half 
a mile further north, are situated what are called 
the Tombs of the Kings. These are constructed in 
a ledge of soft limestone rock. To form an en- 
trance to the tombs, a large square court is cut 
down in the solid rock, in front of them. On the 
side of the tombs is an open portico, facing the 



WILDERNESS Of ST. JOHN. 



283 



court, the top part of which is sculptured in neat 
style. The entrance was nearly choked up ; and 
not having with us the means of making light, we 
did not enter these sepulchres. On the plain be- 
tween this place and the city, are vast piles of 
refuse stones, which probably had been carried out 
in clearing away the rubbish of the former city. 
The whole plain is sprinkled with olive trees, and 
small sections of it are cultivated. 

On the 9th of February, accompanied by Mr. B., 
I went out at the Bethlehem gate, and crossed the 
plain of Rephaim, south-westwardly. We advanced 
far enough to take a view of what is called the 
Wilderness of St. John, or, in other words, the place 
of John's nativity, and where it is said the forerun- 
ner of our Lord commenced preaching. A convent 
is built over the spot where the monks say he was 
born. That region is well cultivated, and has a 
pretty appearance. We only approached near 
enough to take a distant view of it. 

Turning north, we came to the convent of the 
Holy Cross. This is built, as the monks say, over 
the spot where the tree grew out of which the cross 
was made. What vain and empty legendary ! 
Advancing beyond this, we crossed the valley of 
Rephaim, where David twice discomfited the Philis- 
tines in two pitched battles. 2 Samuel, v, Before 
us, at a distance, crowning the top of a high hill, 
were the ruins of the palace and the burial place of 
the warlike Maccabees. In the distance, the whole 
bears the appearance of a fortress. Continuing 
north-west, we at length arrived at the valley of 
Elah, where the youthful David slew the great 



284 



PREPARATION FOR A TOUR. 



Goliath of Gath. It was the very spot where the 
scene so graphically recorded in Scripture, might 
have been acted. " And the Philistines stood on a 
mountain, on one side, and Israel stood on a moun- 
tain, on the other side ; and there was a valley 
between them." On each side of us was a mountain ; 
and we stood in the valley. The small brook was 
still there, out of which the stripling David gathered 
the five smooth stones. The monks, however, say 
they have never been able to find the stone with 
which David killed Goliath. What a wonder ! 
Making our way from this to the Joppa road, we 
returned again to Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XVI11. 

Excursion to the Dead Sea — Valley of Kedron— Convent of Santa Saba — 
Church— Tomb of St. Saba— Human Skulls— The Dead Sea— Buoy- 
ancy of its Waters — Description — Story of Costigan — Arab Horse- 
manship and Manoeuvres — River Jordan — -Greek Pilgrims- — Jericho 
Destroyed — Fountain of Elisha — Mount of Temptation — An Arab Dance 
— Ruins of Ancient Jericho — A Desolate Region — A Chase after Wild 
Boars — Village of Bethany- — Return to Jerusalem. 

While at Jerusalem, Captain Edmonson and lady, 
accompanied by two other officers of the British 
navy, arrived. They had all ridden on horseback 
from Caipha, by the way of Nazareth and Nablous ; 
and, on their arrival at Jerusalem late at night, 
•Mrs. E. was pretty much exhausted. We were just 
making preparations for an excursion to the Dead 
Sea and the Jordan. They were desirous to accom- 
pany us ; and to give the lady time to recruit her 
strength, we postponed our journey two days. 



ROUTE TO THE DEAD SEA. 



285 



Since the Holy Land has been wrested from the 
government of Mehemet Ali, a lawless state of 
anarchy and misrule has pervaded many parts of it. 
Under his government, robberies were becoming 
rare ; but now they have become, as in former 
times, frequent and daring. No section is worse 
than that lying between Jerusalem and the Dead 
Sea. Just before our arrival at Jerusalem, four 
Austrians had set out to visit the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan ; but not being properly guarded, on their 
way a party of Arabs came upon them, and robbed 
and stripped them. They returned to Jerusalem, 
almost naked. For our security, we were advised 
to take with us a strong guard ; and, accordingly, 
two Arab sheiks, with about twenty of their men, 
were employed to accompany us. 

There are two routes from Jerusalem to the Dead 
Sea — one directly across the Mount of Olives, by 
Bethany ; and the other by way of the convent of 
Santa Saba, farther south. We finally concluded to 
go one way, and return the other. 

At about noon on the 10th of February, we set 
out, accompanied by the English party and the Rev. 
Mr. Walcott, of Bey root, who was at that time in 
Jerusalem. Our own company, with the Arab 
escort, amounted in all to over thirty. Going 
out by the Bethlehem gate we passed down the 
valley of Hinnom to that of Jehoshaphat, and thence 
pursued our course directly along the bed of the 
Kedron, which I have before stated was entirely 
dry. The distance from Jerusalem to Santa Saba, 
where we designed to lodge that night, is about 
three hours' ride. There is not a human habitation 



286 BANKS OF THE KEDRON. 

on the whole way, except in one place we saw a 
small encampment of Bedoin Arabs. Most of the 
way the valley is narrow, and the banks on both 
sides, high. Occasionally other valleys intersect 
that of the Kedron, all of which are narrow, steep, 
and rocky. In several places there are olive groves ; 
and, occasionally, apricot and fig trees are seen. 
The former were in full blossom. Numerous exca- 
vations in the rock are seen along the whole distance, 
probabty designed for sepulchres. 

About thirty minutes before reaching the convent, 
the banks of the Kedron assume a perpendicular 
face to the height of one hundred feet, and the road 
rises above them. The whole scenery here becomes 
wild and grand. These cliffs are perforated with 
artificial grottoes, once the abodes of thousands of 
hermits, who centuries ago, dwelt in the clefts of the 
rock around the convent of Santa Saba. In a few 
minutes Ave were dismounted at the walls of the 
convent and very hospitably received by a good- 
natured, smiling brotherhood of Greek monks. The 
rules of this convent exclude ladies as guests. 
There is, however, a separate building outside the 
walls, in which ladies are entertained ; and in that 
Capt. Edmondson and wife took lodgings for the 
night. When this lady was refused admission into 
the convent, I could easily perceive by her counte- 
nance, that she felt a little of the spirit of a woman. 
She, however, seemed to possess an admirable com- 
mand of her temper, and soon after, I saw her seated 
on the roof of her quarters, with pencil in hand, 
sketching the convent and surrounding scenery. 

The convent of Santa Saba stands on the west 



CONVENT OF SANTA SABA. 



287 



bank of the Kedron, and directly in the mouth of 
another steep valley coming in from the west. It is a 
large, massive pile, exceedingly high, and surmount- 
ed on the west side by a tower, which rises almost 
to the height of the mountains around. One of our 
first enterprises was to ascend to the top of the 
tower, which, in the experiment, we found to be no 
ordinary task. On arriving at the top of the last 
flight of steps, we came to a door, at which our 
guide knocked. It was unlocked by an aged father, 
who bore a very smiling countenance. This old 
man occupied a room at this vast height, and con- 
stantly lived there. I saw in his room several mus- 
kets. The scenery as spread out from the top of 
this tower, is some of the most wild and rugged in 
nature. 

After descending, we went into the church. The 
monks were just concluding a religious service, it 
being the festival of Saint somebody, I forget who. 
The church is small, and is splendidly decorated 
with gildings, and set off with a vast number of 
miserable flat staring pictures ; many of them the 
likenesses of saints of whom I had never heard be- 
fore. Directly west of the church is the tomb of St. 
Saba, the founder of this convent, in the fourth cen- 
tury. It is decorated with many paintings, and 
continually illuminated with burning lamps. Nearly 
under the church is another chapel dedicated to 
John of Damascus, who formerly lived there. It 
appeared to have been cut down in the solid rock. 
Behind a grating, in a room adjoining this, was an 
enormous pile of skulls. The monks say they are 
the skulls of fourteen thousand hermits who dwelt 



288 



PLAIN OF JERICHO. 



in the neighboring grottoes, and were murdered by 
the Arabs in the 7th century. It would be impossi- 
ble for me to judge the number with any thing like 
accuracy, but from the immense heap, it must con- 
tain several thousands. 

The room assigned us was neat and comfortable, 
and the provisions furnished, together with some we 
had brought, made us an excellent meal. In this 
convent, like the one at Mount Sinai, no meat is 
furnished to visitors. They have, however, excellent 
bread, with eggs, butter, and coffee. Just before 
sunset, while standing on the convent-green, I no- 
ticed a jackal lazily climbing up the opposite bank, 
and almost within gunshot. 

After an early breakfast on the following morning, 
we took leave of the convent of San Saba, and were 
soon on our way to the Dead Sea. We were joined 
by some twelve or fourteen Greek pilgrims, which 
increased our cavalcade to over forty. The distance 
is about four hours' ride, over a broken and most 
desolate region. Part of the plain of Jericho was 
open to our view for some distance before our final 
descent to it. In different places, along valleys lead- 
ing to the plain, we saw clusters of Bedoin black 
tents, with flocks of goats, sheep, and camels. The 
Arabs bordering the Dead Sea have a wild and sa- 
vage appearance. At several places on the moun- 
tains, I saw pieces of lava strewed about. Evident- 
ly the region has once been volcanic. 

The first view we had of the Dead Sea, presented 
it far below us. Our descent to the plain of Jericho 
was rapid, and in some places, almost precipitous. 
The valley of the Kedron lay at our left, forming a 



VIEW OF THE DEAD SEA. 



i 

289 



deep, rocky ravine. We followed its course nearly 
to the Dead Sea. The plain bordering the sea has 
a dry, pebbly surface, with but little vegetation. 
True, near the shore, we saw a few clumps of small, 
dwarf bushes, and in one place, a small canebrake, 
but the borders of the Dead Sea have a rather life- 
less and barren aspect. This, however, has been 
over-painted by many writers. That part of the 
plain of Jericho which borders the head of the Dead 
Sea, and about two miles of its western shore, is the 
poorest part that I saw of it — has less vegetation 
"and shrubbery ; but there is a portion of both. 
Around the head of the sea, where the river Jordan 
empties into it, we could see portions of shrubbery 
and high coarse grass. The mountains along the 
east shore have a naked, barren, and dark appear- 
ance ; and to the south of us, the mountains on the 
west side have the same wild and desolate aspect. 
To appearance, not a tree, shrub, or blade of grass 
was growing on any of them. A strange, wild, 
lonely aspect seemed to brood over the whole scene. 

My view of "Sodom's Sea" was, of course, only a 
cursory one, being not to exceed two hours by its 
side. I had seen it in the distance from the lofty 
summit of Mount Hor, in the land of Idumea, but 
now standing on its sterile brink, I cast a look over 
its dark mysterious waters, with an interest I shall 
not attempt to describe. Here it lay as in a cal- 
dron of rock, stretching from north to south, farther 
than vision could travel. A south wind was blow- 
ing at the time, and the waves were gently breaking 
a few feet from me, The wind caused a slight mo- 
tion on its surface, though some have written that 



v 



290 



WATER OF THE DEAD SEA. 



the wind produces no motion on it whatever. The 
shore was a clear gravel, the descent into the lake 
was gradual, and the water looked clear and trans- 
parent. I had read much of the strong buoyancy of 
these waters, and felt an irresistible impulse to make 
the experiment by taking a bath. Walking down 
the shore a quarter of a mile, I stripped and went 
into the sea. I had scarcely waded waist-deep be- 
fore I found myself on the point of floating in a per- 
pendicular position. I commenced swimming, and 
found there is much truth in the saying that it re- 
quires an effort to keep the feet and legs under, 
when lying face downward. I turned upon my 
back and found myself lying with all the ease I 
could upon a bed. It required no effort to float upon 
the surface. I then raised both arms and legs out 
of water and found I still floated. I had never been 
m water before where I was buoyed up without 
some effort of my own. It requires no effort of any 
kind to swim in the Dead Sea. Indeed, it would be 
impossible for a person unincumbered with external 
weights, to sink in its waters. But soon after 
coming out, I was seized with an unpleasant prick- 
ling and smarting sensation on every part of me, 
which lasted for some hours. The water has a very 
salt, bitter, and nauseating taste. I searched the 
shore for specimens of bitumen, but was not enabled 
to find any. 

The cause of the great buoyancy of this water 
has been solved by modern science. By analyza- 
tion, its specific gravity has been ascertained to be 
1*211. This is a degree of density unknown to any 
other water, the specific gravity of fresh water being 



ANALYSIS OF THE WATER. 



291 



1-000 The water of the Dead Sea has been found 
to hold in solution, the following proportions of salt 
to one hundred grains of water : 

GRAINS. 

Muriate of lime, - - - 3'920 

Muriate of magnesia, - - 10*246 
Muriate of soda, - - -10*360 
Sulphate of lime, - - 0*054 

24*580 

It has been ascertained by critical observation, 
that the Dead Sea lies 1,400 feet lower than the 
Mediterranean. The Jordan continually discharges 
its waters into it, while the sea has no known outlet 
whatever. There must, then, be either a subterra- 
nean passage from it somewhere, otherwise the 
evaporation must be so great that the entire amount 
of water discharged into it from the Jordan, is taken 
up by that process. The evaporation, of course, 
must be immense, in consequence of its low position 
and exposure to the burning summer heats. Even 
in February, we found the weather here excessively 
warm. The length of this lake is estimated by the 
best authors at about fifty miles, and its average 
width at about ten or twelve miles. But it has 
never been explored. No water craft of any kind, 
with one exception, has probably ever floated upon 
it since the days of Abraham. If such an occurrence 
took place in Jewish times, we have no historical 
record of it. 

The stories of pestilential and deadly vapors 
rising from the waters of this lake, have utterly lost 
their credit with all modern travellers. I saw sea- 



292 



CHRISTOPHER COSTIGAN. 



gulls flying over it, and saw them swimming on its 
surface. Whether there are any living things in 
these waters, I am unable to say. I saw none. 
The frightful impediments raised through whimsical 
imagination, to deter the traveller from exploring 
this lake, have fled. Had the means been at hand, 
I should, in all probability, have defied danger by 
trying it. But no boat was to be had, nor was there 
the means at hand of constructing one. I cannot 
but anticipate that the Dead Sea will be explored 
before long, by some enterprising traveller. It is a 
current report among the natives, that some remains 
of the ancient and devoted cities of the plain are 
yet to be seen beneath the waters. Several ancient 
authors make mention of them, as to be seen in 
their day. Could a faithful explorer spend one 
week on and around this mysterious sea, he might 
render an essential benefit to the scientific and 
Christian world. 

In 1835, Christopher Costigan, an Irish traveller, 
contrived to have a small boat carried over on 
camels, from the shore of the Mediterranean, to 
Lake Tiberias. Here he launched his boat and 
followed the Jordan down to the Dead Sea. He put 
out on these waters in the month of July, accompa- 
nied only by a Maltese servant, and succeeded 
in reaching the southern extremity. By misman- 
agement, they were left two whole days without 
fresh water, exposed to the fierce rays of a burning 
sun. In this situation they rowed hard to get back 
to the northern end. After reaching the shore, they 
lay a whole day, too weak to move, and trying to 
regain strength by laving each other with the 



DEATH OF MR. COSTIGAN. 



293 



waters of the lake. The servant succeeded, at length, 
in crawling up to Jericho, where Costigan had 
left his horse. This was immediately sent him, with 
a supply of water. He was brought to the village, 
and the next morning despatched a messenger 
to Mr. Nicolayson, at Jerusalem, requesting aid. 
Mr. N. set off, and on arriving, found poor Costigan 
very ill, with a high fever. Efforts were made 
to get natives to carry him to Jerusalem on a litter, 
but without success. The only way of removing 
him was to sling a large sack of straw on each side 
of a horse, and then place his bed on the horse's 
back. In this way the sufferer was brought to 
Jerusalem with great difficulty. The journey ex- 
hausted him much, no medicine could be brought 
to operate, and he died three days afterwards at the 
Latin convent. No notes nor any account of his 
voyage were found among his papers.* I visited the 
grave of this unfortunate traveller, on Mount Zion. 

Our next course was a visit to the river Jordan. 
We did not attempt to visit its place of entrance 
into the Dead Sea,, but rode to a point some five 
miles farther up ; the sacred bathing place of 
pilgrims, and the spot where tradition says our 
Saviour was baptized of John. Our course lay 
across a part of the plain of Jericho, in nearly 
a north direction. While slowly moving over the 
plain, our Arab guards entertained us with several 
feats of horsemanship, and the manner of wielding 
their long war lances in charging an enemy. Their 
horses are beautiful, very sure on the foot ; and their 
manner of managing them is peculiarly expert. 

* Robinson. 



294 



THE RIVER JORDAN. 



The suddenness with which they will wheel about 
when on a full gallop, is a singular trait. The red 
tarbouch and full flowing dress of a mounted Arab, 
with the gracefulness with which he sits upon his 
charger, give him a picturesque appearance. 

Most of the way, the plain had a hard, dry. pebbly 
appearance, with some grass, and occasionally small 
clumps of shrubbery. We could see the banks of 
the Jordan to our right ; but the river was no 
where visible. Indeed, the Jordan is not seen till 
you arrive near its brink. The banks in many 
places look like low ridges of barren, yellow sand. 
At length grass began to increase, and we found 
ourselves passing in the midst of low shrubbery, in 
many places thick. Arriving at a pretty green plot 
of half an acre or more, we saw directly before us 
the water of the river Jordan. 

At this place the western bank descends gradually 
to the stream ; and the shore, for twenty feet back, 
is strewed with clean sand and gravel. This is the 
shape of the bank for some ten or twelve rods; 
while above and below this space, it is perpendicu- 
lar, and six or eight feet high from the water. 
Small timber is growing to the very verge; and 
occasionally some small trees, washed loose at the 
roots, lean over partly in the water. The bank on 
the opposite or east side, appeared to be unbrokenly 
steep, and covered with timber. I could see no 
place, on that side, where the bank had a gradual 
slope to the water, as on the west side. The current 
of the river is rather rapid ; but against the place 
of the western slope, the current was, by a turn of 
the river, mostly thrown on the eastern side. The 



GREEK PILGRIMS. 



295 



water had a rather muddy appearance, but when 
dipped up, looked clear ; and on tasting it, I found it 
a little brackish. I should judge the Jordan at that 
place to be about ninety or one hundred feet in 
width. Of its depth I could not so well judge ; but, 
from the motion of the water, should think it might 
be five or six feet deep at the centre of the stream. 
This is supposed to be the hallowed spot where 
John baptized the Redeemer of the world ; and 
I could well see the perfect adaptedness of the 
place for baptizing in Jordan. 

It is most generally supposed that the Jordan, like 
the Nile, annually overflows its banks. I made 
some examination to satisfy myself whether this be 
the fact. I could see no marks of any such inunda- 
tion. If the Jordan like the Nile, did overflow its 
banks annually, it would leave the same marks of 
fertility that are seen along the Nile. No such evi- 
dence appears ; but the very reverse. The valley 
of the Jordan has a rather barren appearance. The 
Jordan, however, may have overflowed its banks 
anciently. 

On our arrival at the Jordan, the Greek pilgrims 
who had accompanied us, seemed in haste to plunge 
into the hallowed waters. The joy they evinced in 
performing this act of ablution, I could but notice. 
They actually suppose that bathing in the holy 
Jordan, washes away every remaining sin they 
have about them ; and they came up from the 
water with the most joyful countenances, A piece 
of white linen is fastened round their loins before 
going into the water ; and this is, ever afterwards, 
to be kept sacred, and to serve as their winding 



296 



RUINS OF JERICHO. 



sheet when they die. They came away from the 
Jordan, seemingly, with more joy than a Romanist 
comes from the confessional of his priest. 

We spent over two hours at the place. I walked 
a distance up the river, and there enjoyed the privi- 
lege of bathing in the sacred waters of the Jordan. 
F stood on the banks of this venerated stream, cele- 
brated in every part of the Old Testament, and lying 
on the border of the Promised Land. Its waters 
had been miraculously driven back to afford a pas- 
sage for the Israelites. The New Testament gives 
it still more celebrity. Here the holy Son of God was 
baptized, when the heavens were opened and the 
Spirit of God descended upon him ; " and, lo ! a voice 
from heaven, This is my beloved Son ! " Here, indeed, 
I felt myself surrounded by hallowed associations. 

Late in the afternoon we quitted the banks of the 
Jordan, and set out for the ruins of Jericho. Some of 
our servants had been sent on several hours before, 
to pitch our tents at the " Fountain of Elisha." Pass- 
ing for some distance over a desert track, sometimes 
among sand-hills, we at length struck a shallow 
water-bed, running southerly, and covered thickly 
with low shrubs. In a short time we reached another 
low tract, running from west to east. This was much 
interspersed with shrubbery, especially small wil- 
lows. The soil here, though uncultivated, looked as 
though it might be rendered abundantly productive 
Soon after crossing the deep bed of a mountain-tor- 
rent, now dry, and passing amidst shrubbery, we 
reached the ruins of Jericho. Just before arriving 
at these ruins, an Arab handed me a yellow r fruit 
about as large as an apricot, which he had picked 



FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 



297 



from a thorny shrub. It looked rich and enticing to the 
appetite. The taste, however, was most indescrib- 
ably nauseous. When cut it was soft and watery. 

1 was informed it was called the apple of Sodom. 

Jericho had long been known as a miserable Arab 
village ; but at length, it has become a mass of 
ruins without an inhabitant. After the fall of Acre, 
in November, 1840, a division of the army of Ibra- 
him Pacha, came to the Jordan opposite Jericho. 
The tribe of Benisakers inhabiting around the Dead 
Sea, owing Ibrahim a grudge of long standing, 
rallied a force who disputed the passage of his 
army. A battle was fought at the Jordan, in which 
the Egyptian troops were finally victorious. The 
Benisakers retreated, and Ibrahim's men advanced 
to Jericho, set fire to it, and utterly destroyed it. 
We passed through the midst of the ruins ; and, 
about sunset, reached our tents at the Fountain of 
Elisha, about two miles farther. 

This is the fountain said to be alluded to in 

2 Kings, ii. It consists of a number of beautiful 
little rivulets from one fountain, running in the 
direction of Jericho, the water of which is excellent. 
In every direction around the place, there is con- 
siderable shrubbery, and the soil has a rich and 
fertile appearance. Here we had the best view of 
the extensive plain of Jericho. It certainly might 
be made one of the richest in the world. Besides 
rains, it is susceptible of unlimited irrigation from 
numerous fountains on and around it. It is vastly 
extensive, and may be said to be scarcely cultivated 
at all. The tribe of Arabs who inhabit it, are the 
most indolent and barbarous. 

13* 



298 



MOUNT NEBO. 



Directly in rear of us was the mountain of Qua- 
rantana ; so called as the supposed mountain on 
which our Saviour, immediately after his baptism, 
was tempted forty days, of the devil. It rises pre- 
cipitously, an almost perpendicular wall of rock, and 
is very difficult of ascent. Its summit is perhaps, 
1,500 feet above the plain, and is crowned with 
a small chapel. Its eastern side is full of caverns, 
in which it is said hermits once dwelt in great 
numbers. 

Often during the entire time we spent on and 
round the plain of Jericho, I looked much at the 
mountains east of the Jordan. I desired to recog- 
nize Mt. Nebo, which Moses ascended from the 
plains of Moab — beheld with his eyes the land of 
promise — ami then yielded up the ghost. It is im- 
possible to fix on any one mountain in that direction, 
definitely ; and yet it is no doubt in sight of the 
plain of Jericho. No doubt we saw the sacred peak 
#on which Moses died ; but it was impossible to 
determine which was the identical one. " No man 
knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day." 

There was a large Arab encampment about one 
mile from ours. We sent to them for some milk 
and butter, and succeeded in obtaining some of 
both. The butter was bad, and very profusely filled 
with goats' hair. The milk was camels' milk. It 
was good, and perfectly free from any unpleasant 
flavor. 

We had purchased a sheep for our Arab guards. 
They skinned it — kindled a fire — and roasted it 
whole. This, with a quantity of bread, which we 
served to them, made them a plentiful meal. The 



JERICHO. 



299 



evening was delightful ; and soon we found they 
had become quite 7 merry on their mutton. They 
laughed and sung joyously. At length, before a 
large fire they prepared themselves for the exhibi- 
tion of one of their war-dances. A number of 
singers stood up in a row, singing loudly, at the 
same time performing various gesticulations, such 
as clapping their hands, and bowing themselves at 
times nearly to the ground. There was but one 
dancer at a time ; and he performed a few feet in 
front facing the singers. He held in his hand a 
sabre, which he continually flourished as he moved 
backward and forward, uttering at times a kind of 
gruff shout. They reminded me much of American 
Indians. The head sheik of the partj^ was, I think, 
the handsomest Arab I ever saw. He was tall and 
straight, with a very pleasant and expressive coun- 
tenance ; was neatly dressed, and moved with 
dignity among his people. They called him Sheik 
Handam. * 

It is rather supposed, and not without good ground, 
that the ancient city of Jericho stood near these 
rivulets. There were ruins but a short distance from 
our place of encampment. I examined them; but 
at this lapse of time, it is not to be expected that 
many traces are to be found of the city which Joshua 
destroyed. On starting for Jerusalem early the next 
morning, we soon passed ruins. In several places 
were low, tumulus-like hills, which to me looked 
rather like ruined fortresses. In the immediate vici- 
nity of these, were ruins of some extent, but all 
seemingly of unhewn stones. Not far from these 
are the remains of an aqueduct and other ruins : and 



300 



WILD BOARS. 



just south of the Jerusalem road, are other ruins, 
and the remains of a large, shallow reservoir. It is 
very probable to me, that the more modern Jericho 
of the days of Herod, stood in the place of these 
ruins. The miserable ruined village on the plain, is 
of still more modern date. Now, that is destroyed. 
At all events, a curse seems to rest on the fate of 
Jericho. "Cursed be the man before the Lord, who 
shall rebuild Jericho." 

The road from Jericho to Jerusalem lies over a 
most broken, desolate, and unpropitious region. 
With the exception of the wilderness of Sinai, and 
some portions of Idumea, I never saw so rugged and 
dreary scenery. In some places we ascended by the 
side of precipitous and yawning chasms, where a 
false step of the horse might dash the rider to sudden 
destruction. It is on this desolate route that the 
Saviour lays the scene of the parable of the good 
Samaritan. "A certain man went down from Jeru- 
salem to Jericho, and fell among thieves." The re- 
putation of the road still holds the same. Here the 
unguarded traveller would be very apt to fall among 
thieves. The mountains abound in grottoes and 
caves, where robbers watch for prey, and from 
which they are ready to issue forth to plunder the 
defenceless traveller. At a certain place in this 
dreary region, we started a large flock of wild boars. 
The Arabs took after them on horseback, at full 
chase. Several guns were fired, but no shot seemed 
to tell. The chase was a fine one ; but at length the 
boars, gaining the ascent of a mountain, made their 
escape. The road was almost one continual ascent, 
and totally destitute of interest, till we reached 



BETHANY. 



301 



Bethany, where we arrived at about 1, p.m. Near 
the place we overtook several miserable-looking 
Arab women, bearing bundles of small brush on 
their heads, for fuel. 

Bethany is a miserable-looking village of some 
twenty or thirty buildings, situated on the eastern 
range of the Mount of Olives, sloping to the east. 
The houses are rudely built, mostly of rough stone, 
though some of them bear a few marks of antiquity, 
being constructed partly of hewn stones. It is pro- 
bable that these have been used in other edifices 
before. Of course the monks show the house of 
Martha and Mary, that of Simon the leper, and the 
sepulchre of Lazarus ! The pretended tomb of La- 
zarus is a deep vault, excavated in the limestone 
rock in the middle of the village. The descent to it 
is by twenty-six steps. The form is unlike that of 
ancient Jewish sepulchres; nor does its position 
accord with the New Testament narrative — that 
seems to represent that the tomb was out of the 
town. The name of Bethany, however, has much 
of sacred interest connected with it. It was there 
that Lazarus, Martha, and Mary dwelt. It was 
there our Lord raised Lazarus from the dead; and 
it was from a place near Bethany, that the Saviour 
ascended to heaven. Of the location of Bethany 
there can be no reasonable dispute. 

Somewhere not far from Bethany was the village 
of Bethphage. Of that there are now no remains to 
be found. Probably it was situated a little east of 
Bethany. 

Our course to Jerusalem lay over the middle range 
of the Mount of Olives ; and thence, by the road that 



302 



JERUSALEM. 



winds round the south side of the western range. 
Passing the Garden of Gethsemane, the tomb of the 
Virgin, and the gate of St. Stephen, we were soon at 
our quarters in the Latin convent. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Preparations for Departure — Last View of the Holy City — Samuel's 
Tomb— Ruins of Bethel — Inviting Scenery — A Night's Lodging — Jo- 
seph's Tomb — Jacob's Well — Mount Gerizim and Mount Ebal — Na- 
blous, the Ancient Sychar — Remains of the Samaritans — Ruins of 
Samaria — A Beautiful Landscape — All's Well that Ends Well — A 
Wedding Party — Janeen, or Jezreel — Mount Gilboa — Scripture Scenery 
Identified — Arrival at Nazareth. 

It may be said the glory of Jerusalem has indeed 
departed. From her ancient high estate as the great 
Jewish metropolis, "the beloved city of the nations, 
and the joy of the whole earth," she now sits crushed 
under the iron rod of oppression. The sceptre has 
indeed long since departed from Judah, and Jerusa- 
lem is trodden down of the Gentiles. The cup of 
indignation from the Almighty, has been poured out 
upon her to the very dregs. She sits solitary ; and a 
strange gloom has gathered over the beloved city 
and all her surrounding scenery. The Saviour of 
man wept her approaching calamities ; and most 
fearfully have they come. The awful whirlwind of 
utter desolation swept over her, and Roman hands 
laid her glory in the dust. Successive woes have 
followed, and have now, for almost eighteen cen- 
turies, kept her bowed to the earth. How fearfully, 
and almost to the very letter, have been accomplish- 
ed the awful predictions that pointed Jerusalem to 
her doom! 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 



303 



I saw Jerusalem's sun had set— 

Her hills around look sear ! 
Messiah wept on Olivet. 
Her coming woes — her fall; and yet, 

She scoff 'd at Mercy's tear ! 

Those woes have come — her charms have fled, 

Save hills, and vales, and name ; 
Her Kedron no more laves its bed, 
Bethesda's healing power is dead, 

And Zion droops in shame. 

But Palestine, to hope allied, 

Again to life shall spring — 
Shall burst her bands and fetters wide, 
When He, whom once she crucified, 

Shall reign, her rightful King. 

Having now spent about ten days in Jerusalem 
and its vicinity, and having examined every thing in 
and around the Holy City, deemed of much interest, 
we were ready to leave and pursue our journey on- 
ward. A letter was given us by the governor of 
Jerusalem, to secure a kind reception wherever 
we might call for entertainment. This governor, by 
the way, is a very pleasant, accommodating sort of 
a Turk. He also instructed us to take a certificate 
from the health officer of the city, to secure us from 
any molestation by quarantine laws. This, too, on 
application, was readily furnished. A muleteer was 
engaged to convey us to Nazareth, and as much 
farther as we might desire. As there are no wheel 
carriages, nor roads for them, in the land of Pales- 
tine, conveyance on horses or mules is the best the 
traveller can expect. 

The evening before leaving, we held a very pleas- 
ant interview with the good-natured old Superior of 
the convent. We handed him a suitable present in 



304 



DEPARTURE. 



return for the entertainment we had received, 
which, by the way, appeared both acceptable and 
gratifying. He showered upon us good wishes for 
our prosperity and happiness, all of which were 
heartily responded to by the monks present. In a 
few minutes we were each presented with a certifi- 
cate of our pilgrimage to the Holy City — that we 
had visited all the holy places usually there visited 
by pilgrims — and had conducted ourselves as good 
pilgrims ought to do. To this was affixed the 
name of the Superior, " Perpetual Secretary of the 
Holy Land ; " and affixed to the whole, was the high 
seal of the "Guardian of the Holy Convent of Mount 
Zion." With such a flattering commendation, and 
from such high and holy authority, too, who shall 
dare in future to call in question our good reputa- 
tion! 

Early on the morning of the 14th, we were mount- 
ed on horseback, passing out at the Bethlehem gate, 
winding round the north-west angle of the city wall ; 
and thence pushing our course northward, over a 
portion of the plain of Rephaim. In a few minutes 
we passed the tombs of the Kings on our right; 
and, shortly after, the tombs of the Judges a dis- 
tance to our left. Crossing the valley of the Kedron, 
at this place shallow, we ascended a small emi- 
nence, and soon began to descend northward. From 
this eminence I turned my eyes back upon the Holy 
City. For a moment I gazed upon its domes, its 
walls and its towers, glancing my eyes over the 
surrounding scenery ; and then, turning away, I bade 
those sacred hills farewell forever. 

The small village of Ramah stood some distance 



BETHEL* 



305 



to our left, on a high hill. This was the birth-place 
of Samuel, the prophet; and his tomb is still visited 
there within a mosque. The building shows conspi- 
cuously on the summit of a hill. Aware that we could 
gain no entrance, we did not visit it. At about two 
hours' ride from Jerusalem, we passed the village of 
Beer, situated on the side of a hill, a little to our 
right. A little to the south are the ruins of an Arab 
khan ; and on the summit of the hill north, are the 
remains of a convent. Beer is a small village ; but 
is memorable in Scripture, as the place to which 
Jotham fled "for fear of his brother Abimelech." 
At a small fountain just out of the village, a number 
of females were engaged washing clothes. 

About an hour beyond this are the ruins of an- 
cient Bethel. They are situated on a little ele- 
vation, and cover a plot of three or four acres. 
Very many foundations, partly-standing walls of 
houses and other buildings, may be distinguished. 
In the highest part, are the remains of a square 
tower, and in the southern side are the remains of a 
church. In the valley near by are the remains of a 
very large stone reservoir. But the whole consti- 
tute only a plot of entire ruins, without a solitary 
inhabitant. The accuracy of the site leaves little 
or no doubt. These ruins now mark the place 
where Jacob, on his way to Haran, lay down with 
a stone for his pillow and slept, and saw in a dream 
the ladder andthe angels of God ascending and de- 
scending. Here afterwards he returned and built 
an altar, and called the place Beth-el — " House of 
God." Here the bears came out and tore in pieces 
the children who mocked the bald-headed prophet 



306 



EINBROOT. 



Elisha. Here, too, Jeroboam erected one of his 
golden calfs, and instituted idolatrous worship. The 
entire vicinity is exceedingly rocky. 

Soon after passing these ruins, we began to de- 
scend to the north in a narrow road, with small 
fields on either hand, fenced with stone walls. The 
whole vicinity bore the marks of high cultivation, 
though the soil and face of the land was not so good 
as I had seen further back. Orchards of fig and 
other trees, were numerous and thrifty. Our way 
led into a valley extending before us, which though 
not wide, bore marks of cultivation and thrift. 
The mountains were terraced to their very tops and 
planted with vineyards. Olive groves and fruit- 
trees of various kinds, were abundant. Soon we 
passed the pleasant-looking village of Einbroot, situ- 
ated on an eminence, and commanding an extensive 
view of this beautiful valley. Its whitened stone 
buildings, with olive and other trees, with which it 
is surrounded, gave it a picturesque and pleasant 
appearance in the distance. But like all the Arab 
villages I had seen, most probably, the exterior 
looked much better than the interior. 

We were now entering the district of Samaria. 
The valley before us seemed extending itself in 
width. Though the mountains were rocky, they had 
been terraced in many places, and planted. At four 
o'clock, p.m., we came to the village of Khan Leban, 
after having passed several others. Here we had 
purposed to stop over night, but as it was yet so 
early in the day, we concluded to continue on, and 
trust fortune for lodging in some other village. The 
scenery around this place was very pleasant. The 



COWARA. 



307 



valley was broad and the soil rich. Several men 
were engaged ploughing and sowing. Fruit-trees 
and vineyards were abundant, and olive -groves 
spotted the valley and sides of the mountains. 
Flocks and herds were numerous, and every thing 
indicated plenty of the good things. Pursuing our 
course, the same luxuriant valley extended before us. 

At about seven o'clock, p. m., we reached the small 
village of Cowara. As it had now become quite 
dark, we concluded to stop and seek some kind of 
lodging for the night. On entering it, we found this 
village a miserable place, and we could find no one 
who appeared to be a head man among the inhabi- 
tants. Notwithstanding all our servants could do for 
us with our letter from the governor of Jerusalem, 
we were apprehensive that we should have to lie in 
the open air. At length we were led to an old 
ruined mosque, into which a number of Arab mule- 
teers had crawled and taken possession before us. 
We had no other alternative left us, but to crawl in 
and share it with them. We procured a kind of 
lamp, spread our blankets on the filthy floor, and 
concluded to bury our wants as soon as possible in 
calm refreshing sleep. Four villagers were em- 
ployed to keep watch, and soon all was lost in the , 
forgetfulness of slumber. 

Morning found us well and much refreshed. Cof- 
fee was made, and our stock of provisions furnished 
us another meal. We took a view of the village, 
and found it composed of miserable stone huts, and 
very filthy. In the midst of a soil capable of yield- 
ing its abundance, these people were living in indo- 
lence and sloth. Their condition was much inferior 



308 



TOMB OF JOSEPH. 



to villages we had passed. We paid the men who 
had watched while we slept, and had furnished us 
lamp-light, mounted our horses and set out on our 
way. Two hours brought us to the " parcel of a 
field" bought by Jacob, " at the hand of the children 
of Hamor, Shechem's father, for a hundred pieces of 
money," which he afterwards gave to his son Joseph. 
The valley here extends itself into a broad plain, 
running north and south, and is of a beautiful rich 
soil. Fields of wheat were growing luxuriantly, 
and men were engaged ploughing in different parts 
of the valley. A beautiful valley intersects this 
plain from the west, on the south side of which is 
Mount Gerizim, and on the north Mount Ebal. 
Some more than a mile from the mouth of this val- 
ley stands the city of Nablous, the Shechem of the 
Old Testament, and Sychar of the New. Near the 
entrance of this valley, on the plain, are two objects 
worthy of notice ; the Tomb of Joseph and the Well 
of Jacob. "The bones also of Joseph, which the 
children of Israel brought with them up out of Egypt, 
buried they in Shechem." The walls around Joseph's 
Tomb resemble, externally, a mosque, but there is 
no roof to them. The tomb is about the size of 
oblong monuments frequently seen in our burial- 
grounds, covered with stucco and rounded at the 
top. The head was at the north, and near it was a 
small stone altar on which Mohammedans offer 
sacrifices when they come there to pray. 

Some forty rods from this is Jacob's Well, which 
appears to be deep. It had been stoned large, arched 
at the top, and had two mouths. Both of these, 
however, were stopped by thrusting into each a 



Jacob's well. 



309 



stone column, and then placing large stones around 
it. We were unable to remove the stones so as to 
see into the well. It appears, from remains yet 
seen, to have been once covered with a stone build- 
ing. It was at this well that our Saviour held the 
conversation with the woman of Samaria, recorded 
in the fourth chapter of John. "With my Bible in 
hand, I could here imagine that interesting scene. 
The Saviour, on his way from Judea to Galilee, must 
needs pass through Samaria. He came " to a city 
in Samaria called Sychar, near to the parcel of 
ground which Jacob gave to his son Joseph." 
"Jacob's well was there, and Jesus being weary 
with his journey, sat down on the well, and it was 
the sixth hour. And there cometh a woman of 
Samaria to draw water, and Jesus saith unto her, 
give me to drink." Here I could imagine with 
vividness this whole interesting occurrence. I sat 
down on the well where the Saviour once reclined, 
weary of his journey. I, too, had come from Judea, 
and must needs pass through Samaria, on my way 
to Galilee. I was now coming to the same city in 
Samaria, called Sychar, and was fain to sit down on 
Jacob's well, where the Saviour talked with the 
Samaritan woman. 

Turning up the valley of Nablous, we soon 
entered a grove of very old olive trees, which ex- 
tends to the very walls of the city. To our left we 
passed the splendid tomb of an Arab sheik. Mount 
Gerizim was towering at our left, and Mount Eba] 
at our right ; the mountains of blessings and curses. 
Some travellers have thought they could see Gerizim 
fertile, and Ebal barren. I could perceive no such 



310 



NABLOUS 



distinction. The sides of both appeared rocky and 
sterile, while the valley between was fertile and 
luxuriant. This is the place where Joshua caused 
the law to be read. Six tribes stood on the side of 
Gerizim, to say Amen when the blessings were read, 
and six on the side of Ebal to say Amen when 
curses were read. It is probable the priests who 
read the law occupied the middle of the valley. — 
Deut., xxvii. The place is most admirably adapted 
to such a scene ; probably a more suitable one could 
not be found. 

As we entered the gate of Nablous, a most loath- 
some company of lepers were seated outside. They 
importuned for alms in a very pitiful manner. 
We first called at the palace of the governor and 
handed him our letter from the governor of Jerusa- 
lem. He received us kindly, and ordered us con- 
ducted to the house of his secretary. At this place 
we were more kindly received and better entertained 
than is common among the natives. Our host was 
an oriental gentleman, and in every way affable and 
kind. 

The city of Nablous is long and narrow, lying in 
the valley directly between Mount Gerizim and 
Mount Ebal. It is walled around, and the streets 
are narrow. The houses are of stone, and well 
built, with domes on the roofs, like those in Jerusa- 
lem. The population, as near as we could ascertain, 
was about 8,000. It is probably one of the oldest 
cities in Palestine, as it was a city in Jacob's time, 
if not in Abraham's. In Nablous are the only dis- 
tinct remains of the ancient Samaritans, and these 
are at present a feeble community, of not over one 



GREEK CHURCH. 



311 



hundred and fifty souls. We paid an early visit to 
their synagogue. It is a small building, and pre- 
sents nothing very striking. We were requested to 
take off our shoes on entering. The priest was a t 
man of about thirty, and of very good demeanor. 
He showed us what they say is the oldest manuscript 
in the world — a copy of the Pentateuch, written by j 
Abishua, the grandson of Aaron, three years after 
the death of Moses. It was considerably tattered 
and worn, and certainly bore marks of old age. We 
then proposed to the priest several questions. Q. Do 
you know anything about such a person as Jesus 
Christ ? A. Yes, there was such a man as Jesus. 
Q,. Where was he born, in Nazareth? A. No; in 
Bethlehem. Q. Where did he die ? A. At Jerusa- 
lem : he was crucified. Q. Was he a good person ? 
A. Yes, he was a good man and a prophet. The 
Jews did very wrong to crucify him. Some other 
questions were put, but these are the main ones. 
We then took our leave. 

A Greek priest had accompanied us to the place, 
and now appeared anxious that we should visit their 
church. He conducted us to a small chapel, of 
rather ordinary external appearance. The inside 
was more showy. He laid before us an Arabic 
manuscript, which he represented as very ancient. 
It was very neatly written, but I could see no marks 
of very great antiquity about it. The walls of the 
chapel were filled with dauby, ill-executed pictures, 
among which I remember one representing the day 
of judgment, in which a pair of scales was used to 
weigh souls. The priest took great pains to explain 
this to us as something wonderful and sublime. 



312 



CITY OF SAMARIA. 



There are remains of an old Christian church in 
Nablous, which must have been a splendid build- 
ing. The pillars and other parts of it which remain, 
have a richness of workmanship about them, not 
often seen on similar remains in Palestine. There 
are, it is said, some ruins on the top of Mount 
Gerizim, and perhaps some faint remains of the 
ancient Samaritan temple, but we did not visit 
them. 

Feb. 16. At about 8 o'clock in the morning, we 
passed out at the western gate of Nablous. A 
number of lepers lay here also, whose miserable 
looks excited pity, and whose begging was most 
importunate. As we advanced down the valley of 
Nablous, we found it indeed delightful in the 
morning sun. The beautiful olive groves, with 
orchards of fig and other fruit trees, together with a 
soft, meandering stream of clear water flowing 
through the midst, gave the whole a lively and 
picturesque appearance. In about one hour we 
turned to the right over a mountain, and in one- 
hour more came to the ruins of Sebaste, or the 
ancient city of Samaria. 

This city stood on an isolated hill, which probably 
had been terraced all round and to its summit. 
Each terrace was as wide as to admit, probably, 
two rows of houses and a street. These, rising one 
above the other, must have given the place a 
picturesque appearance. But of all that once 
adorned this spot, but very little now remains. A 
few rows of massive columns still standing, with 
some heaps of stones and rubbish, are all now left 
of this once opulent city. It had once been the 



herod's palace. 



313 



capital of the ten tribes of Israel, where Ahab built 
his palace of ivory, and where her citizens sat in 
the lap of luxury, in the days of Jeroboam. It was 
destroyed by the Assyrians, but afterwards rebuilt 
and restored to more than its original splendor by 
Herod. Now it lies in the very condition foretold \ 
by the prophet Amos : — " Her inhabitants and their 
posterity are taken away." 

The summit of this hill of ruins, commands a 
sightly and picturesque view on all sides. The 
Mediterranean is seen in the distance to the north- 
west, and the snow-capped Anti-Libanus to the 
north-east, while the valley west and south are 
spread broad to view. Herod's palace, the columns 
of which remain, must have been magnificent and 
grand. On the east side of the hill is a miserable 
Arab village, inhabited by bigoted Mohammedans, 
Near this is the church of St. John the Baptist, once 
large and elegant, but now nearly in ruins. The 
upper part is quite so. The lower part is now con- 
verted into a mosque. The door was unlocked bv 
an Arab and we entered. The building is divided 
into several apartments, all of which were quite 
filthy. One of these rooms was said to have been 
the prison of John the Baptist, in which he was 
beheaded by order of Herod. 

At a quarter past eleven we were under way. 
As we advanced, the scenery in nature was pleasant. 
Olive groves continued, and in many places the 
ground was decked with flowers of various and 
beautiful colors. Fig orchards were abundant, 
with pomegranate trees occasionally interspersed. 
Fields of wheat were numerous and of luxuriant 

14 / 



314 



AN ARAB BATTLE. 



growth. In about an hour we came to the village 
of Beteen, standing on the side of a mountain, and 
overlooking the fertile valley stretching by it. 
Many women and children were engaged plucking 
tares from among the wheat. Descending a little 
beyond this village, we heard, in the direction of 
our road onward, a volley of small arms, followed 
with a shout. The village of Sanpoor was but 
little more than a mile distant. About ten days 
before, this village had been attacked by a party of 
Arabs from near the Dead Sea, and something of a 
battle fought. The occurrence took place on the 
day the English party passed, whom we saw at 
Jerusalem, and from them we obtained the intelli- 
gence. The circumstance was, a marauding party 
of Benisakers had previously attempted to rob the 
villagers of Sanpoor of some cattle and horses. 
Tfte villagers sallied out upon them, drove them off, 
and in the skirmish one of the marauding party was 
killed. By this event a debt of blood was contract- 
ed, and an armed party came to avenge it. At that 
time the battle was fought which the English party 
partly witnessed. The assailants were driven off, 
out the villagers lost a few more cattle and horses. 

Hearing this volley of small arms, we were a 
little suspicious that we might be advancing towards 
some rather unpleasant company. Pausing for a 
while, and hearing npthing further, we concluded to 
proceed. Soon we saw a company coming towards 
us, armed with guns and decked out with enough of 
red to give them quite a martial appearance. As 
they approached nearer, we thought we saw the 
appearance of females amoug them. This led us to 



WEDDING PARTY. 



315 



conclude they were not a war party ; and listening, 
we could hear a singing or chanting noise among 
them. Our interpreter, who was an Arab, and 
acquainted with Arab customs, immediately pro- 
nounced it a wedding party. The company con- 
sisted mainly of about forty or fifty young men, 
formed in an oblong hollow square, in the centre of 
which was a young female richly dressed and seated 
on a fine horse, which was splendidly caparisoned. 
The young men had guns, and each wore a red sash 
thrown over the shoulders like a ladies' scarf. The 
young lady in the centre was the intended bride, 
whom they were conducting to the village of Beteen, 
where she was to meet her intended and be married. 
Six females were following in the rear, who occa- 
sionally chanted or sung. While we were passing 
them, several of the young men discharged their 
pieces, which only served to startle our horses 
without any further injury. 

The village of Sanpoor was soon in sight, situated 
to our left, on the brow of a hill overlooking the 
plain. Soon after, we passed a muddy section, in 
the midst of which was a small lake or pond, 
the first of the kind I had seen in Palestine. In an 
hour and a half, we passed the village of Abattia. 
It is large ; the most of the houses are built of hewn 
stone, and have a better appearance than houses 
generally in Arab villages. Passing this village, 
we found the valley broad, and the soil black and 
of a deep rich mould. In thirty or forty minutes, 
we began to cross another mountain, which we 
descended on the other side, through a narrow 
rocky defile. As we advanced, the valley widened, 



316 



GOVERNOR OF JANEEN. 



and soon we entered the border of the great plain 
of Jezreel or Esdrselon. In a few minutes further, 
we came to the village of Janeen, situated on the 
edge of this great plain. On arriving, we called as 
usual on the governor, and showed him our letter 
from Jerusalem. He was a large, fat Turk, and 
seemed to receive us with a show of pleasantry ; 
but he had us conducted to a miserable building, 
with wretched, filthy apartments. We succeeded 
in procuring something to eat, had it cooked and 
made out a meal. Our blankets were then spread 
on the filthy floor, and we tried to forget our 
troubles in sleep. Soon, however, we found the 
place badly infested with fleas, so that we obtained 
but very little rest during the night. Janeen is 
most generally supposed to be the ancient Jezreel 
of the Scriptures. If so, it is the place where 
Jezebel was cast from an upper window, and eaten 
of dogs. — 2 Kings, ix. 36. It is now a miserable 
village, and has but little of interest in or about it. 

Feb. 17. Set out a little past eight in the morn- 
ing. Our course lay north, directly across a part 
of the plain of Esdrselon. Passing some ruins on 
our right, in about one hour and a half we passed 
the mountain of Gilboa. It was at our right, and is 
a long eminence of no great height, rising out of the 
midst of the plain. There Saul and his sons fell in 
battle against the Philistines. I could but remark, 
while looking at the place, how well it accorded 
with the Scripture account. It is said the chariots 
and horsemen followed hard after Saul on Mount 
Gilboa. The ascent from the plain is such that 
horsemen and chariots might pass up to the very 



NAIN. 



top of the hilL To the right, and towards the Sea 
of Galilee, lay the village of Bisan, the Bethshean 
of the Bible, where the Philistines fastened the 
bodies of Saul and his three sons, after they had 
fallen on Mount Gilboa. — 1 Samuel, xxxi. 

About one hour further brought us opposite a 
mountain called the Little Hermon. It is crowned 
with the tomb of a sheik, which shows conspicuous- 
ly at a distance. At the south side of this mountain 
is a considerable village, the name of which I forget. 
Passing by Little Hermon, a short distance to our 
right lay Nain, once the city where occurred the 
affecting scene of our Lord's raising the widow's son. 
It is situated near the base of a mountain, and is now 
a poor hamlet, occupied by only a few families* 
Some two miles further, in a north-east direction, is 
Endor, noted as the place where Saul consulted the 
sorceress, on the night previous to the battle of 
Gilboa. It is now but a small, poor village. In a 
north-east direction from us, stood Mount Tabor. 
It is an isolated conic mountain, rising up in the midst 
of the plain, and overlooking the whole region round 
about. It was about two miles distant, but as we 
intended to visit it at another time, we laid our course 
direct for Nazareth. Between our path and this moun- 
tain we noticed a considerable ruin. Near this place 
we saw a flock of seven or eight gazels. Several of 
our party started in pursuit of one that singled itself 
out from the rest, but they failed in taking it. 

The plain of Esdrselon is very extensive, "but its 
size is variously computed, at from fifteen miles 
square, up to thirty-five by forty miles. I should, 
however, think the lowest computation the nearest 



318 



BEAUTIFUL PLAIN. 



correct. Although it bears the name of plain, it 
abounds with hills, which, when viewed from adja- 
cent mountains, sink almost into nothing. The soil 
is rich, though but little cultivated. Indeed, we saw 
but little doing through the whole extent we passed 
in crossing it. I am unable to say why the soil of 
this beautiful valley is so much neglected. There 
are a few villages on it, and these generally look 
small and poor. The plain of Esdraelon has been a 
chosen place for battles and military operations in 
almost every age. They have been too numerous 
for me to mention. They have extended from the 
days of Barak down to the times of the Crusades, and 
from them down to Napoleon, and later to Ibrahim 
Pacha. It has been made by the nations literally a 
field of bloodshed and slaughter. But when we 
passed over it, all was still and solitary. There is 
now little to remind the traveller of the awful scenes 
of martial strife so repeatedly acted there. The 
boundary line between the districts of Samaria and 
Galilee, runs across the southern part of this plain. 

At 2 o'clock, p. m., we were ascending among the 
hills that surround Nazareth. Crossing a mountain, 
we came upon a rocky ravine, of a broken, gradual 
ascent ; and on gaining the height, came to a large 
fountain where some women were engaged washing 
clothes. Near the place was a large orchard of 
pomegranates. A little distance beyond, we began 
to descend into the pleasant valley of Nazara. Reach- 
ing this valley, and turning to our left, we soon came 
in sight of the city of Nazareth. At a little past 2, 
p^ m., we were at the door of the Latin Convent, 
where a comfortable room was assigned us. 



DESCRIPTION OF NAZARETH. 



319 



CHAPTER XX. 

Description of Nazareth— Church of the Annunciation — Virgin's Grotto 
— Joseph's Workshop — Sacred Stone Table — Mount of Precipitation— 
Cana of Galilee — Mountain of the Beatitudes— Town of Tiberias- 
Sea of Tiberias — Mount Tabor — A Band of Robbers — From Nazareth 
to Mount Carmel — Ruins of Megiddo— River Kishon — Caipha — Convent 
on Mount Carmel — Extensive View from Carmel — Arrival at Acre — 
Description — Awful Effects of War. 

A valley ascending northward from the plain of 
Esdraelon, forms the main site of the city of Naza- 
reth. The north end of this valley seems by nature 
to be scooped out so as to enlarge it to two-thirds of 
a circle, forming an amphitheatre of hills on full- 
three sides. The hills on the east and west are 
high ; on the north more moderate. The city stands 
principally in the valley, but extends some up the 
hill- sides west and north. The houses are all of 
stone, with flat terraced roofs. I noticed one Mo- 
hammedan mosque, and from the tall minaret saw 
and heard the priest proclaiming the hour of prayer. 

The Greeks, Latins, and Maronites all have estab- 
lishments and churches in Nazareth, but the largest 
building, or rather collection of buildings in the 
place is the Latin Convent. The present popula- 
tion of Nazareth is probably about 3,500. 

Like Bethlehem and Jerusalem, there is no lack 
of holy places in Nazareth. The Greeks have a 
church said to cover the place where the angel 
Gabriel made the annunciation to the Virgin ; and 
the Latins have also a church of the annunciation. 
They are situated some distance apart, but both set 
of monks pretend, beyond doubt, to show the very 



320 



CHURCH OF THE ANNUNCIATION. 



place where the Virgin was sitting when the angel 
appeared to her, and of course you must believe 
them if you can. Although we did not come as 
pilgrims to holy places pointed out in legendary 
tradition, yet we felt disposed to visit the noted 
places to be shown. We repaired to the Latin 
Church of Annunciation. The interior of this build- 
ing is plain, with massive arches, and the walls are 
hung with red damask, giving the whole a rich 
lustre. There are two fine organs in it, and a monk 
played some soft melodious airs while we remained. 
Near the altar the floor rises, and there is an ascent 
to it by steps. Under this is a grotto, in which it is 
said the Virgin once lived, and where she received 
the salutation of the angel Gabriel. This grotto is 
now a chapel. There are some smaller rooms con- 
nected with it, which are said to have constituted 
parts of Joseph's and Mary's house. 

In another part of the town is Joseph's workshop, 
where he wrought at the carpenter's trade, as the 
monks have it. It, however, presents a small place 
of very ancient appearance. A remnant of the syn- 
agogue, too, is shown where Christ, by reading a 
portion from the prophecy of Isaiah, and applying it 
to himself, so exasperated the Jews that they rose 
up and thrust him out of the city. In another 
small chapel was shown us the table at which it is 
said that Christ repeatedly ate with his disciples, 
both before and after his crucifixion. It is a large 
flat stone about three feet high and forty in circum- 
ference. 

At the south-west part of the town is a small Ma- 
ronite chapel. It stands near a perpendicular ledge, 



MARONITF. CHAPEL. 



321 



which, with the hill above., sloping back but slight- 
ly, forms a sudden eminence of forty or fifty feet. 
This is most probably the spot where the Jews led 
Jesus " unto the brow of the hill, whereon their city 
was built, that they might cast him down headlong ; 
but he passing through the midst of them, went his 
way."' The monks have chosen to fix the place of 
this occurrence near two miles south of the town ; 
a very awkward position. It does not look reason- 
able that in a popular tumult, a populace would 
lead their victim off two miles, to do that which 
they had facilities for doing right at hand. Besides, 
it was the hill on which their city was built, which 
could not be said of a hill two miles off. 

At the south-east part of the town is the Greek 
Church of Annunciation. We did not enter it ; but 
near it is a beautiful stone fountain, where it is said 
the Virgin was in the habit of going for water. It is 
now called the Fountain of the Virgin. We were 
standing near this beautiful spring about sunset. 
At this hour, scores of females are seen coming out 
of the town, bearing rude pieces of pottery on their 
heads, called pitchers. Each one filled her pitcher 
at the fountain, and then placing it on her head, bore 
it off without touching hand to it. While standing 
there, in the space of twenty minutes, I presume we 
saw more than one hundred females thus come and 
go again. The scene was oriental and truly pic- 
turesque. 

As a quiet, pleasant town, surrounded with beau- 
tiful and romantic scenery, I saw no place in the 
Holy Land to be preferred to Nazareth. Its situa- 
tion is highly picturesque, and there is something 
14* 



222 



CANA. 



pleasing and inviting in the place. But a peculiar 
sensation of mind arose, from the fact that I was 
then in the city of our Saviour's abode and within 
the scenery of his principal miracles. I was tread- 
ing over ground once often trodden by the divine 
Redeemer of man. He had walked over these 
streets, traversed these valleys, and climbed the hills 
that surrounded me. Here he began his ministry of 
mercy, and consummated it on Calvary, when he 
said, " It is finished." I felt, indeed, that I was sur- 
rounded by holy associations, and my feelings can 
only be appreciated by another in the actual realiz- 
ation of the same scene. 

Feb. 18. Set out in the morning to visit the Lake 
Tiberias. Passing out by the Fountain of the 
Virgin, at the north-east part of the town, we com- 
menced the ascent of themountain. From thence our 
course lay in a north-east direction. We descend- 
ed for near two miles down a rocky ravine, passing 
two small Arab villages to our left, of no particular 
note. In about one hour we came to the reputed 
Cana of Galilee. At this place the Saviour per- 
formed his first miracle, that of turning water into 
wine. A small chapel is erected over the place, 
where it is said the young man's house stood in 
which our Lord wrought the miracle. In it, large 
stone water-pots are shown, and the monks say they 
are the very identical ones in which the water was 
changed ! Cana is now but a small village, stand- 
ing on the south-western slope of a hill. 

Passing over a slight eminence, where rocks are 
strewn in most bountiful profusion, we soon entered 
a large plain. It is said to be on this plain that the 



MOUNT OF BEATITUDES. 



323 



disciples plucked ears of corn on the Sabbath day. 
One hour further on we passed a low hill, with two 
little elevations on it. This is called the Mountain 
of Beatitudes, on which our Saviour preached his 
sermon, recorded by St. Matthew. On it are the 
ruins of a small chapel, marking the place where 
he stood. Whether this be the identical place or 
not, it would be an admirable one for such a per- 
formance. Half an hour further on, we came to a 
large flat stone, which, says tradition, marks the 
place where our Lord blessed the five loaves and 
two small fishes, and fed the five thousand. Near 
this place we met a caravan of Christian pilgrims 
from Damascus, going to Nazareth and Jerusa- 
lem. They consisted of about one hundred men 
and women, who were nearly all mounted on 
horses. 

We came in sight of Lake Tiberias about two 
hours before reaching the town. Just as we began 
to descend in an eastern direction, we were pointed, 
at our left, to the well into which Joseph was cast 
by his brethren, at the time they sold him to the 
Ishmaelitish merchants, to be carried into Egypt. 
Beyond, we could see the town of Safed, towering 
on a hill, like a city whose light could not be hid. 
Half an hour beyond this, we came to the ruins of 
a considerable village, mainly at the foot of an 
eminence to our left. We were not enabled to learn 
any name for them. Soon after passing these, we 
began to descend, with the Lake and Tiberias full 
in view ; and in thirty minutes more, passed through 
the western gate. We called immediately on the 
governor, who received us very kindly, and had us 



324 



TIBERIAS. 



conducted to another part of the town, where a 
room was provided for our accommodation. 

The town of Tiberias, called by the Arabs Taba- 
rea, stands close by the shore of the lake, on a level 
plain, with high hills in the rear. It is nearly an 
oblong square, its length being about half a mile 
along the lake shore. It has walls on three sides, 
once about twenty feet high, with a number of 
towers. Towards the sea, the city is open. There 
is a castle at the north-west corner. The houses 
are generally low, mostly built of stone, and have a 
miserable appearance. The streets are narrow, 
crooked, and filthy. It is, finally, the most miser- 
able town of any considerable size that I saw in the 
Holy Land. Its population is probably not much 
over two thousand souls. Near the centre of the 
town, bordering the lake, the Jews occupy a quarter. 
There are near one hundred families of them. We 
saw a considerable number of Jews in the streets ; 
and their women had the best appearance of any 
females in the place. Tiberias and Safed are con- 
sidered by the Jews as two holy cities in ancient 
Galilee ; and hence a considerable number of them 
are in both places. They have two synagogues in 
Tiberias. The Christians of the town are all Greek 
Catholics. Close to the shore, in the north part of 
the town, is a church dedicated to St. Peter. It is a 
singular, narrow-vaulted, ill-shaped building. The 
monks say it stands on the spot where the miraculous 
draught of fishes was brought to the shore, after our 
Lord's resurrection ; and where he said to Peter, 
" Feed my sheep." 

For the first time in my life, I saw in Tiberias the 



EFFECTS OF AN EARTHQUAKE. 



825 



disastrous effects of an earthquake. It occurred on 
the 1st day of January, 1837; and its ravages in the 
place had been awful. Comparatively but little 
had yet been done to repair its effects. Parts of the 
town walls had been thrown down ; and the por- 
tions yet standing were filled with crevices. The 
whole would have to be taken down if ever repair- 
ed. The castle had suffered much. A large por- 
tion of the houses were thrown down, and very few 
remained without injury. Many of the houses now 
inhabited, still bear prominent marks of the wreck 
they then experienced. I noticed that some low 
wooden buildings had been hastily put up where 
stone houses had been demolished. Several minarets 
had been thrown down by the shock, and since re- 
built. . Many fallen houses still remained in their 
ruined state ; and, indeed, ruins still marked the 
town in every direction. It is probable that Tiberias 
will not, for many years, if ever, recover from this 
disaster. The destruction of life, too, was very con- 
siderable ; and it is said, on the Jews fell the 
heaviest part of the calamity. The same earth- 
quake nearly destroyed the town of Safed, a few 
miles north-west, and buried hundreds of the inhab- 
itants under the ruins. Slight shocks were still ex- 
perienced occasionally ; and the inhabitants of Ti- 
berias were fearing another disaster. 

The plain runs back from the town to the foot of 
the mountain ; and in the sides of the mountain are 
large ranges of tombs. To the south of the present 
wall are many ruins, extending more than a mile in 
that direction. The ancient town probably once 
covered that whole extent. To the extremity of 



326 



LAKE TIBERIAS. 



these ruins are several hot springs, now used for 
baths. The water, where it oozes out of the moun- 
tain, is too warm to hold the hand in. A bathing 
house near by, was erected by Ibrahim Pacha, in 
1833, where persons may be accommodated with a 
warm bath at any time. My companions concluded 
to try the luxury of one ; but as the day was warm 
and pleasant, I chose to bathe in the lake. I found 
the bottom hard, the water exceedingly clear, and 
by no means cold. The privilege of bathing in the 
Red Sea, the Dead Sea, the River Jordan, and the 
Sea of Tiberias, I consider worth recording. 

The Lake of Tiberias, sometimes in Scripture 
called the Sea of Galilee, and the Sea of Genesa- 
reth, is a beautiful, clear sheet of water, about 
twelve miles long and six broad, of nearly an oval 
shape. The banks are more precipitous on the 
eastern than on the western side. As it seems to 
have been on the eastern side that our Lord healed 
the demoniac, and permitted the devils to enter the 
swine, if the herd " ran violently down a steep place 
into the sea," it must have been over a precipice. 
The water deepens very gradually on the west side, 
where we visited it. The River Jordan enters this 
lake at a north-east point, and passes out at the 
south end. Dr. Clark thought he could perceive 
that the river maintained its course all the way 
through, or for the whole length of the lake, with- 
out mingling waters. I could see no such appear- 
ance, although I examined with all my scrutiny of 
vision. There was but one small boat on the lake, 
and that belonged to the governor. The lake still 
abounds with excellent fish, of which the governor 



MOUNT TABOR. 



327 



procured us a supply for our evening and morning 
meals. They were truly fine, and I considered it a 
luxury worth naming, to eat of fish caught in Peter's 
old fishing place. It was on this lake that Peter, 
James, and John once followed fishing for a liveli- 
hood ; and it was on the shore of this lake, that our 
Lord called them from that employment to become 
" fishers of men." 

Along the shores of this lake once stood a number 
of populous cities, among which, besides Tiberias, 
were Bethsaida, Chorazin, and Capernaum. The 
Saviour pronounced woes upon all of them ; and 
now all are extinct but the little town of Tiberias. 
Even the sites of the other cities are now disputed. 
Ruins are still seen at different places near the 
shores ; but to determine what city each ruin be- 
longs to is now about impossible. 

Feb. 15* The morning was lowery. with strong 
prospects of rain. After calling again upon the 
governor, we concluded to make our way back to 
Nazareth as soon as possible. We exceedingly re- 
gretted the aspect of the weather, as we had design- 
ed, on our return, to visit and ascend Mount Tabor. 
We must now relinquish that hope, as the sky was 
cloudy, which would nearly obscure the prospect 
from the top of that mountain after we got there, if 
the rain did not prevent our ascending it. Tradition 
says it was on Mount Tabor that our Lord was 
transfigured. We wished to ascend it to take a 
view of the entire plain of Esdraelon. We had al- 
ready passed near it twice, and should pass it again 
on our return to Nazareth. I may here remark, 
that Mount Tabor is a high conic mountain, standing 



328 



BANDITTI, 



in an isolated position, on the northern side of the 
plain of Esdraslon. Its sides are covered with small 
oak timber to near its summit. On the top are 
said to be some ruins, and three small ruined chapels. 

About two hours after leaving Tiberias, just as 
we passed round a point of rocks, we met seven as 
ruffian-looking fellows as I ever set eyes on. They 
were all armed, and seemed to be halting for us to 
approach them. When we came near, they eyed 
us and our means of defence most sharply. Find- 
ing us just seven in number, and probably full equal 
to themselves in strength, they let us pass. Near 
that place, a short time before, two Jews, who, it is 
said, had considerable money with them, were 
found with their throats cut, having been robbed 
and stripped. From the ruffian appearance of 
these fellows, we thought it very probable they 
might have had an intimate acquaintance with that 
affair. There is but little doubt that they were 
brigands of the worst class ; and I cannot but think 
it a fortunate circumstance that our party were well 
armed. For an hour before we reached Nazareth, 
the rain poured down profusely, and we entered the 
town dripping with water. 

Feb. 20. At about nine in the morning, we took 
our final leave of the lively little town of Nazareth, 
intending to reach the Latin convent on Mount Car- 
mel, that day. We ascended the mountain west of 
the town ; and for two hours bore a direction, as 
near as I could judge, of west-by-north. Our way 
was over a hilly section, or rather following a bro- 
ken, rocky ravine. We passed two small villages, 
which presented nothing worthy of note. At 1 1, a.m.. 



MEGIDDO. 



329 



we entered the north-western branch of the plain of 
Esdraelon. Soon after, we passed the village of Si- 
monias. Around this village the land is fertile ; fig- 
trees were abundant, and many luxuriant fields of 
wheat spotted the vast plain. Large flocks and 
herds were grazing in intermediate sections, which 
gave the whole region a thrifty appearance. One 
hour more brought us to the village of Jeida. This 
village is situated on a slight eminence, and is sur- 
rounded by a fertile and fruitful section of land. If 
the inhabitants of this part of Palestine do not enjoy 
abundance of the good things, it is not owing to 
either soil or climate. Soon after passing this vil- 
lage, we crossed a broken, rocky section of thirty 
minutes. This, however, is good grazing land ; and 
in one place we passed an aged herdsmen, who was 
tending a large flock of cattle and asses. These 
were grazing in luxuriant feed. The old man 
saluted us with all the politeness of a friendly Arab. 

A short distance from this, we passed some very 
antique-looking ruins, thought to be those of the 
ancient city Megiddo, which stood near the river 
Kishon. To this place Ahaziah, king of Judah,fled, 
after being wounded in battle, and died. 2 Kings, 
ix. 27. Here Mount Carmel was directly on our 
left. Soon after, we forded a small stream, rather 
deep and bad to cross. This was the ancient river 
Kishon, repeatedly mentioned in Scripture. It was 
about two rods wide where we crossed it. It was 
by this river that Elijah slew the four hundred and 
fifty prophets of Baal. 1 Kings, xviii. 40. 

At 3, p. m., we came to the town of Caipha, on the 
shore of the Mediterranean. The sight of the sea 



330 



MOUNT CARMEL. 



once more, was like greeting an old friend. Caipha 
is a small walled town. Two Turkish sentinels 
stood at the gate as we entered ; and several others 
in mock military, were lounging near by. The 
streets of the town are narrow and very filthy. We 
passed through one of the principal streets, and in 
its centre the mud was above the fetlocks of our 
horses. The houses are generally low and of ordi- 
nary appearance. We made no stop, but passed 
directly through the town. Our course was nearly 
west, over a plain of about two miles, spotted in 
different places with olive trees. From this we 
ascended Mount Carmel in a westerly oblique 
direction. At length, reaching the summit, we 
were kindly received at the Latin Convent by as 
smiling, good-natured looking company of monks as 
we had seen in the Holy Land. 

The north-west end of Mount Carmel terminates 
abruptly at the sea, forming an almost perpendicular 
cliff, called Cape Carmel. On this eminence stands 
the convent. It is equal, if not superior, to any we 
saw in the Holy Land. It is immensely large, built 
of hewn stone, and is yet new. Its location is truly 
picturesque. From the observatory on the top, we 
had a view to the south of the beautiful plain of 
Sharon so often mentioned in Scripture. We could 
trace the shore of the Mediterranean, beyond the 
ruins of ancient Caesarea, and could plainly see the 
former site of that once splendid but now obliterated 
city. To the north we could trace the shore far 
beyond St. Jean d'Acre ; while the broad sea lay 
to the west stretching further than the eye could 
trace. The high elevation of this convent must 



THE CONVENT. 



331 



always secure to it a pure air, and render the loca- 
tion very healthy. It is by far the best furnished 
convent that we visited. It is provided with neat 
chairs and French beds ; and its cleanliness, with 
the pleasantry of its inmates, render it a desirable 
home to travellers, who, like us, had recently been 
braving the solitary and lonely desert. The church 
of the convent is the best piece of architecture I saw 
in the East. Under it was shown to us a grotto, in 
which the monks say the prophet Elijah dwelt when 
the priests of Baal had dug down the altars of true 
worship, and he had fled for his life. That this is 
the true place, may only be monkish legendary; 
though it is true that he dwelt somewhere on Mount 
Carmel. 

This mountain still retains its original name. It 
consists of several hills, rising in distinct peaks ; and 
that at the north-west is the highest. The soil of 
this mountain is very rich, producing fruits and 
flowers in abundance. From this circumstance it 
obtained the name of Carmel, which signifies a 
fruitful field. We often find allusions to its beauty 
and fertility in the Scriptures. The mountain 
abounds in spacious caverns, some of which were 
formerly inhabited by monks, whose cells are still 
visible. On this mountain the prophets Elijah and 
Elisha, for the most part, dwelt. 

Feb. 21. At about 9, a. m., we took leave of the 
hospitable monks of Carmel ; and descending to the 
plain, passed once more through Caipha without 
stopping. Our course lay direct to Jean d'Acre, 
round the head of the bay. Advancing, we saw 
several wrecks strewed along the coast. Some 



332 



ST. JEAN D'A€RE. 



were nearly buried in the sand ; and some appeared 
to have been made more recently. We noticed the 
hull of a fine brig, high and dry on the beach, 
thrown there but a few weeks before. On our way 
we had to ford the river Kishon, near its mouth. 
This river, when very high, sometimes cuts off all 
passage at that place. Though considerably deep, 
we succeeded in crossing it. Winding round the 
north side of the bay, at a little past 1, p. m., we 
were entering Acre. 

As we approached, the walls of the city bore marks 
of cannon shot in numerous places, some of which 
were still lodged in the sides. The Turkish crescent 
was floating over the gate, when we entered. Two 
soldiers stood sentinel as we passed, and many others 
were lounging and sauntering round. We repaired 
immediately to the Latin Convent, as the best 
probable place of entertainment. On arriving we 
found but one monk ; and he stated that he was, at 
present, the only inmate of the establishment. We 
informed him that we only desired a place to lodge ; 
and that we could cook our own victuals. We 
were soon shown into rooms ; and Comeo was de- 
spatched to the bazars in quest of something to 
prepare for our dinner. In the mean time, we con- 
cluded to make an excursion through the town. 

Acre is properly the ancient city of Accho, men- 
tioned in Judges, i. 31, from which the Israelites 
were unable to drive out the Canaanites. In later 
times it was called Ptolemais, from Ptolemy, king of 
Egypt, who seized upon it about 100 years before 
Christ. Under this name it is mentioned repeatedly 
in the Apocrypha, and once in the New Testament, 



PTOLEMAIS. 



333 



Acts, xxi. 7. The emperor Claudius constituted 
Ptolemais, a Roman colony. In the 7th century it 
was conquered by the Saracens or Arabs. In the 
11th century it suffered many vicissitudes of fortune, 
being taken and retaken by the Christians and 
Mohammedans, alternately. At end of the 12th 
century, it became the seat of the Knights of St. 
John, who afterwards removed to Cyprus, then to 
Rhodes, and finally to Malta. From this circum- 
stance the city was called by the French, St. Jean 
d'Acre, a corruption of the old name Accho. In the 
13th century, when the Christians were driven out 
of Palestine by the Egyptians, this was the last 
place they abandoned. Since that time it has never 
flourished as of old. 

In our own time, Acre has been made the scene 
of war and bloodshed. The siege laid to it by the 
French under Napoleon, and his repulsion by the 
English and Turks, is still fresh in recollection. But 
it has very recently been made the theatre of a 
more disastrous scene. On the 3d of November, 
1840, the allied fleets of Europ© bombarded the 
place. A bomb from an English steam-ship lodged 
in the magazine of the citadel, in which was a large 
quantity of powder. The explosion was awful, and 
the destruction of the entire citadel complete. Two 
thousand lives were instantly destroyed by the ex- 
plosion ; and every thing immediately contiguous to 
the citadel was made a mass of ruins. Acre was 
immediately surrendered. With the fall of Acre, 
Mehemet Ali lost his possession of Syria. Every 
other military post in the land either surrendered 
or was abandoned without defence ; and Palestine 



334 



RETREAT OF IBRAHIM PACHA. 



fell back under the government of the Turkish 
sultan. 

The Egyptian army immediately commenced a 
retreat in two divisions, without baggage, and with 
only nine days' provisions. One division, conducted 
by Ibrahim Pacha, took the direction of Gaza and 
El Irish. From Gaza, Ibrahim fled to Egypt in a 
steamer sent by his father, leaving his army to 
escape through the desert as they could. The other 
division crossed the Jordan, a few miles above the 
Dead Sea, on their way to Akabah and Suez. Un- 
der a forced march, scant of provisions, and in the 
desert through which they had to pass, almost desti- 
tute of water, men and horses in vast numbers died 
of fatigue and thirst. It is said that over ten thou- 
sand men perished on this retreat. In another place 
I have noticed some remains of that disastrous 
march. In many places where we travelled be- 
tween Cairo and Hebron, we saw the bones of men 
and horses, bleaching on the desert sands. Around 
Akabah, the skeletons of horses were immense, many 
of which had been killed and eaten. Between Cairo 
and Suez, we were surprised to see the abundance 
of bones that lay scattered along our path. An 
English lady at Suez told us she went to Cairo 
about four weeks after that retreat. Horses and 
men lay dead every short distance, and vultures and 
jackals were feeding on them. She said that often 
the stench by the way was almost insupportable. 
When the army of Ibrahim Pacha left Palestine, it 
consisted of over 40,000 men, not over 30,000 of whom 
reached Egypt ; and a large number of these died 
soon after their arrival at Cairo. When a poor sol- 



REFLECTIONS. 



335 



dier was unable to drag himself farther, or to keep 
up with his comrades, he was instantly shot, and his 
body left by the way-side. 

Here I may venture to remark, that whatever 
reasons the powers of Europe had to interpose in 
behalf of the sultan, and to strip Mehemet Ali of 
his Asiatic possessions, the result has been a very 
unfortunate one for the Holy Land. Mehemet Ali 
maintained some kind of government, kept the 
peasantry unarmed and in fear of him. Under his 
government Frank travellers were protected ; and it 
was as safe travelling in Palestine as in Italy. But 
now affairs have essentially changed. The Arabs in 
the Holy Land go armed with pistol and sabre, while 
robberies and bloodshed are frequent. Frank travel- 
lers not only need to go armed themselves, but to hire 
armed escorts for their personal protection, in passing 
certain dangerous sections. The Mohammedan part 
of the population, it is true, are well pleased with 
the recent change of government. As soon as the 
allied powers struck for the Turks, the native troops 
deserted Ibrahim Pacha to the amount of 20,000. 
But the Christian portion of the inhabitants every 
where deplore the result that has followed. Their 
cry is, " Give us some kind of government ; " for 
they feel that they have now comparatively none. 
Truly the present state of the land is wretched. 
And who have been the agents in bringing about 
this disastrous change of affairs. I blush when I 
say it — the Christian powers of Europe ! And what 
have they accomplished by it ? Why, they have 
only put a curb on one tyrant, for the purpose of 
strengthening the hands of another. Englishmen 



336 



THE RUINS. 



who now visit Palestine, feel to blush for the part 
their government has acted in the affair. 

We visited the exploded citadel. It was yet in 
ruins, though some preparations were making to re- 
build it. Scarcely could it be possible for an explo- 
sion to be more disastrous, or the destruction of a 
fortress to be more complete. The earth was blown 
in every direction ; and large portions of the walls, 
still strongly cemented together, were thrown to the 
distance of rods, where they were still lying in 
broken masses. Cannon-balls and fragments of ex- 
ploded shells were thickly scattered over that entire 
section. We walked nearly round the walls of the 
city. On all sides they were most severely battered, 
and in many places broken by cannon-shot. The 
buildings of the town were sadly scarified. The 
minaret of one mosque, I saw, was nearly battered 
down ; and the walls of the principal mosque of the 
place, bore profusely the marks of war. Even the 
convent at which we stopped, had received its share 
of cannon-shot ; and I noticed one cannon-ball still 
lodged in its wall. It will take many years to 
obliterate from Acre, the" marks of that awful storm 
of shot and shell. 

St. Jean d'Acre stands on the north side of a 
broad bay of the same name. The buildings are of 
stone; and, like all other cities in the East, the 
streets are narrow and filthy. Its present population 
is about 15,000. Abroad plain stretches back from 
the city, which appeared to be but little cultivated. 



EMBARKATION AT ACRE. 



337 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Embarkation at Acre — View of Tyre — Perilous Storm — Landing at Sidon 
— English Consular Agent — Description of Sidon — Lady Stanhope — 
Arrival at Beyroot — Description— A singular Druse Ornament — Parting 
■with Companions — The Jews in Palestine — General Remarks on the 
Holy Land — Conclusion. 

As the plague was raging in Tyre, (called by the 
natives Sour.) to pass through that place might 
subject us to twenty days quarantine at Beyroot. 
Tyre lay directly on our road by land. Under these 
circumstances, it was deemed advisable to seek a 
passage to Beyroot by water. We found a very 
small vessel from Tripolis, of such shape and dimen- 
sions that I hardly know what to call it. It had 
just discharged its freight, and the captain offered 
to take us all, five in number, to Beyroot for twenty- 
five dollars, and set out that evening if we desired. 
Concluding to charter the ichole ship, we paid off our 
muleteer and dismissed him. By about dark we 
had taken leave of the convent and were all on 
board the little Tripolitan. The captain, hands and 
all were Arabs, and were rather awkward seamen. 
We did not succeed in getting out of port till about 
nine in the evening. In the course of the night a 
severe squall struck us, and for over an hour we 
were in real danger. It, however, passed over in 
the course of two hours. We had plenty of provi- 
sion on board, but were so sea-sick that we ate 
nothing. The morning was clear, but the sea was 
running in high and irregular swells. 

As we ran near the shore, we had pointed to us 
15 



338 



TYRE. 



the ancient Scala of the Syrians, or the white- 
promontory mentioned by JPliny. It is a high, bold 
promontory, much like Cape Carmel. At about 11 
o'clock, we passed in view of Tyre. This is but a 
small, miserable town, kept in being, near where 
once stood "the crowning city, whose merchants 
were princes, whose traffickers were the honorable 
of the earth." An excellent author says, " Tyre has 
indeed become like the top of a rock, a place to 
spread nets upon." The sole remaining tokens of 
her more ancient splendor lie strewed beneath the 
waves in the midst of the sea ; and the hovels which 
now nestle upon a portion of her site, present no 
contradiction of the dread decree : — " Thou shalt be 
built no more." 

Soon after passing Tyre, a severe gale arose, the 
wind blowing almost directly to the shore. All the 
sails were kept up that our little barque would 
bear, with the hope of reaching Sidon. At about 
3 o'clock, p. m., we anchored off the town with the 
gale still increasing. It was some time before the 
seamen could sufficiently secure their vessel, to 
leave it and set us on shore. At four we got into a 
boat to pass to the shore, a distance of about a mile. 
It was a perilous undertaking, as the sea was run- 
ning in large irregular swells, and the surf breaking 
heavily at our landing place. The sight of our boat 
struggling in the midst of such swells, collected 
hundreds of the natives to the shore, expecting 
every moment to see us swallowed up in the deep. 
The oarsmen, however, were expert at their business, 
and although two of the waves partially broke over 
the side of our boat, we at length reached the shore 



SIDON. 



339 



in safety, and with thankful hearts to Him who 
numbers the hairs of our heads. 

We were immediately conducted to the English 
consular agent. We found him much of a gentle- 
man, and from appearances, I should think him 
wealthy; We learned that he was a Greek Catho- 
lic. He readily furnished us lodgings, and showed 
us every attention during our stay. 

Sidon (called by the natives Saide,) stands on the 
north-west slope of a promontory. The highest 
ground is on the south, where the citadel, a large 
square tower, is situated. The city is enclosed by a 
wall on three sides, the part towards the sea being 
open. The streets are narrow, crooked, and like 
those of all cities in the east, dirty. The houses are 
all built of stone, and many of them are large. 
Those along the eastern side are built directly on 
the wall, so as to constitute a part of it. These 
command a pure air as well as a pleasant prospect 
of the fields and country. The beaut}* of Sidon con- 
sists in its gardens and orchards of fruit-trees. 
These fill the plain and extend back to the foot of 
the mountains. The city and tract around are 
abundantly supplied with water, by aqueducts and 
channels. The environs exhibit in every direction 
a luxuriant verdure, and the fruits of Sidon are 
reckoned among the finest in the country. They 
embrace every variety peculiar to the climate. The 
culture and manufacture of silk constitute the most 
important branches of business in Sidon, and is a 
main article of traffic. Its population is estimated 
at about ~ 000. Two-thirds of these are Moham- 
dans, and the remainder Jews and Christians. In 



340 



EMBARKATION FOR BEYROOT. 



the late revolution, Sidon was peaceably surren- 
dered, by which it escaped the horrors that befel 
Acre. 

Sidon was the point from which many travellers 
made excursions out to the residence of Lady Hester 
Stanhope. She was an English lady, niece of the 
younger Pitt, and once a resident in his family. She 
was engaged to be married to Sir John More, who 
was killed in the battle of Corunna, in Spain, Janu- 
ary 16, 1809. Lady Hester felt the affliction most 
deeply, which with other matters tending to alienate 
her affections from England, she came to the East, 
and for many years made her home in the mountains 
near Sidon. She assumed a peculiar eccentricity of 
character, and many of her strange whims and no- 
tions became notorious. But death has now closed 
the scene with her, and forever cast his pall over 
her virtues and her follies. 

We were detained at Sidon three nights and two 
days. The storm, for the most part, was incessant, 
which prevented our being out as much as we could 
desire. Our excursions, however, in and around the 
town were considerable. On the morning of the 
25th, the sea had greatly calmed, and the weather 
and wind had become fair. W e took leave of the 
kind consular agent, whose hospitality we can never 
forget, went on board our little Tripolitan, and set 
sail for Beyroot. In two hours, the snow-capped 
peaks of Mount Lebanon were fairly before us, and 
in about five hours from Sidon. we landed at Bey- 
root. I was almost immediately conducted to the 
residence of the Rev. Eli Smith, one of the Ameri- 
can missionaries at that place, where I was most 



BEYROOT. 



341 



kindly received by him and his amiable lady. 
Mrs. S. was a daughter of the Hon. Moses Chapin, 
of Rochester, N. Y., and had but a few months be- 
fore left her native land, for the mission in Syria. 
Besides deep and exemplary piety, she was possessed 
of all that can endear the female character. When 
I left Beyroot she was in the bloom of health, but in 
a few frail weeks she fell by the hand of relentless 
death, and has passed to that fair world where " the 
inhabitants thereof shall no more say, I am sick." 
"Thus the glory of the world passes away." 

Beyroot is situated on the north-west side of a 
promontory. As it has no port, vessels anchor only in 
the open road. It is walled on three sides, but not 
very substantially, on which are towers. The side 
next to the sea is open. The houses are built of 
stone, and generally are high. The streets are narrow 
and rudely paved with large stones. The interior 
of the city has rather a gloomy appearance. Back 
of the town the land rises southward to a consider- 
able elevation. Here, and indeed in every direc- 
tion by land, is a succession of gardens, orchards 
of fruit, vineyards, and countless mulberry-trees, 
Much of these are surrounded with hedges of the 
prickly pear. The entire region of gardens around 
the town has a picturesque and inviting appearance. 
Indeed, I saw no place in the East that would com- 
pare, in this kind of scenery, with Beyroot. 

The dress of the native inhabitants of Beyroot is, 
in most respects, that of the Turkish fashion, com- 
mon throughout most parts of the East. There is 
one peculiarity, however, with a large portion of 
the Druse females of Mount Lebanon. It is the 
15* 



342 



MOUNT LEBANON. 



singular fashion of wearing a horn on the forehead. 
This strange instrument of dress is sometimes made 
of silver, sometimes of britannia, but oftener of com- 
mon tin. It is about the length and size, and nearly 
the shape of the common dinner-horn used among 
our farmers. This singular ornament (for it is worn 
as such,) is fastened on the forehead by means of a 
tight bandage round the head, leaving the unseemly 
instrument to project out in front at an elevation of 
about twenty-seven degrees. The sight reminds one 
of the horn of a unicorn, as delineated in the pic- 
tures of that fanciful animal. Over the whole is 
spread a large white veil, which, extending over the 
head, horn and all, gives the fair Druse a most gro- 
tesque appearance. 

Mount Lebanon, with its tall peaks covered with 
perennial snow, shows with majestic grandeur from 
Beyroot. The mountain is filled with villages, and 
is densely populated. In many places, mountain- 
sides are terraced to vast heights, thus exhibiting 
range above range of luxuriant verdure. I greatly 
desired to make an excursion among the mountains, 
but as the vessel in which I expected to embark 
homeward, was expected in daily, I satisfied myself 
with gazing at the beautiful mountain scenery ex- 
tended before me in the distance. 

At Beyroot I gave the parting hand to my travel- 
ling companions. We had shared together the 
perils and privations of a journey through the desert, 
as well as the fatigues and hazards attendant on 
a passage through the Holy Land. We were now 
to take different directions — they to Europe, and I 
to my native land. We parted as we had met — 



PARTING WITH FRIENDS. 



343 



friends. Thus have ended my travels in the Holy 
Land, 

Notwithstanding the abundance that has been 
written on the land of Palestine and read by the 
Christian public, new interests are continually 
awakening to hear more. The eyes of Christians 
have long been turned Eastward, in earnest expecta- 
tion of new and great events in accomplishment of 
sacred prophecy. The church is cherishing strong 
faith that the final redemption of ancient Palestine 
is near at hand — even at the door. Thousands, too, 
have long been looking for the return of the Jews 
to possess the inheritance of their fathers ; and often 
rumors favoring that event have reached our coun- 
try. A few things on this subject may be expected 
from my pen, before taking final leave of the reader. 

I am satisfied that the actual number of Jews in 
the Holy Land has often been overrated. From the 
best sources of information I was enabled to consult, 
I am convinced that their present number in Pales- 
tine does not exceed from 12,000 to 14,000. The 
highest of these estimates was given me by the Rev. 
Mr. Nicolayson, missionary to the Jews at Jerusa- 
lem, and the lowest by the Rev. Eli Smith, mission- 
ary at Beyroot, who has resided in Syria many years 
and has travelled in all parts of Palestine. Both 
these gentlemen assure me there has been no recent 
increase of Jews in the Holy Land by emigration. 
Even under the late government of Mehemet Ali, 
which was protective to both Jews and Christians, 
there were no movements among the Jews to return 
to the Holy Land. - 

Should the time ever arrive when, the Jews shall 



344 



RETURN OF THE JEWS. 



again possess the land of their fathers, a very impor- 
tant overturn must first take place with the nations 
and tribes that surround it. The land is at present 
inhabited by native Arabs, who till the soil and 
mainly people the towns and villages. The question 
arises, How are these inhabitants to be dispossessed 
of the land ? Is a purchase contemplated ? Who, 
or what power is to enforce such a purchase, and 
where would the present inhabitants emigrate to? 
Or is it contemplated that they are to be driven out 
by the sword ? This, I am convinced, is the only 
means by which the land can be cleared of its pre- 
sent population. But in this case, the native inhab- 
itants would, of course, be driven back upon Arabia, 
which bends like a crescent round the south and 
east of the Holy Land. The present inhabitants 
would not thus be driven out without obstinacy and 
bloodshed, carrying with them, at the same time, the 
most malignant inveteracy. From Arabia, aided by 
other tribes, they would sally from time to time, to 
ravage and lay waste the whole land. In that case, 
the Jews could not protect themselves, and must fall 
a prey to the tribes of Ishmael. Nor could a stand- 
ing army, kept by the powers of Europe, protect 
them. 

As a people, it is evident the Jews expect they 
shall yet possess the land of Palestine. But they 
hold another sentiment connected with this, which 
has a very important bearing on the whole subject. 
They are looking for their Messiah yet to come, ex- 
pecting when he makes his appearance it will be at 
Jerusalem. They suppose he will be a temporal 
prince, and will establish the throne of his father 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



345 



David. After their Messiah has come, they expect 
he will gather the dispersed Jews from the four 
quarters of the earth to their own land. Under this 
faith, they have neither motive nor desire to return. 
Finally, of the return of the Jews, there is, at pre- 
sent, not one favorable sign. 

A few statements in relation to the land of Pales- 
tine in general, and I shall have done. The various 
descriptions of this land given by travellers, have 
been extremely conflicting. Some have extolled it 
as a garden, an Eden, a paradise ; while others run- 
ning into the opposite extreme, have represented it 
as barren, sterile, and miserable throughout. In this 
case, as in almost all others, the truth lies between 
two extremes. Its climate and its location for fer- 
tility, are favorable. It is situated between the 31st 
and 34th degrees of north latitude, and between the 
35th and 37th of east longitude. It is abundantly 
diversified with mountains and valleys, and hills, 
and vales. Most of the mountains are rocky and 
sterile, probably owing to the timber having been 
centuries ago entirely cut ofT. This left the soil un- 
protected, and subject to be washed from the sum- 
mits and sides of the mountains. Some of the 
mountains, however, are terraced and planted ; and 
nearly all of them might be. Most of the valleys 
and plains are fertile, and capable of being render- 
ed abundantly productive. 

Of the land, the southern portion is decidedly the 
poorest. It will be remembered that I entered the 
land from ancient Idumea, on the south. The 
whole had a rocky and sterile appearance, till I ap- 
proached the valley of Hebron, which is very fertile 



346 



FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 



and pleasant. Leaving this valley, the whole dis- 
tance to Bethlehem presented a mountainous, rocky, 
and sterile appearance, and is wholly uninhabited. 
This extends over a space of twelve or fourteen 
miles in width. In the vicinity of Bethlehem, the 
valleys bear a fertile aspect. Soon after leaving 
Bethlehem, the traveller enters the great plain of 
Rephaim which extends to Jerusalem, skirting out in 
three directions from it. This plain, with valleys 
west, bears strong marks of fertility. But here most 
of the land is lying waste and comparatively but 
little cultivated. Though there is much soil round 
Jerusalem that might be rendered quite productive, 
it is the most poorly cultivated of any portion of 
Palestine, if we except the extreme southern part. 

The plain of Jericho bordering the Jordan on the 
west, is for the most part exceedingly rich and 
might be rendered among the most fertile to be 
found. It is of vast dimensions, and with proper 
culture is capable of yielding almost like the valley 
of the Nile. But in its present condition, it yields 
but little. It is inhabited by an indolent and most 
barbarous tribe of Arabs. 

On the route north from Jerusalem, many of the 
valleys presented a rich and fruitful appearance. 
That portion of Palestine called the district of Sa- 
maria, has within it sections of soil, especially val- 
leys, rarely to be excelled in fertility. The district 
of Galilee is still better, and is the best portion of the 
whole land. There are within it, sections of the 
the most luxuriant soil. Many of the valleys are 
rich, and the great plain of EsdraBlon is capable of 
being made vastly productive. Mount Carmel has 



PALESTINE. 



347 



much of rich, productive soil, and the great plain of 
Sharon lying south, has a soil capable of producing 
abundance. 

Most of the land is well watered, and generally 
the water is of a good quality. The climate is such 
that two crops of various kinds may be realized 
every year. It rarely rains during the summer 
months, and at that season the weather is sometimes 
hot ; though on mountains it is mild and salubrious. 
The present inhabitants subsist on the productions 
of their soil, and often furnish large supplies of grain 
for Arabia. With better culture, Palestine might be 
rendered capable of sustaining a population of three 
times the amount of the present. No better soil 
could be found for the culture of silk. Olives are 
abundant ; vineyards are luxuriant where they are 
cultivated ; and figs, apricots, pomegranates, oranges, 
and lemons yield bountifully. Wheat, barley, maize, 
and other kinds of grain, are raised to a very con- 
siderable amount. Cattle, sheep, and goats are 
numerous. But the native inhabitants and the go- 
vernment are every way defective. Under a good 
government, with an enlightened and enterprising- 
people, the land of Palestine is capable of vast ele- 
vation above its present condition. 

To the Christian, how many thrilling associations 
gather around this hallowed land ! Here the patri- 
archs sojourned ; here God's chosen people dwelt ; 
and here the kings of Israel and Judah reigned. 
Here the holy prophets of God poured forth the 
solemn predictions which still stand out in lines of 
light on the pages of divine revelation. Here God 
established his true sanctuary, and held communion 



348 



CONCLUSION. 



with men. Here the Saviour of man made his 

advent to our sinful world, and revealed his dispen- 
sation of mercy and love. Here he accomplished 
his errand of mercy, sealed his testimony with his 
blood, and ascended to heaven. And here he will 
again descend, when " he shall appear the second 
time, without sin, unto salvation." From Palestine 
issued the hallowed light of that truth which is de- 
signed ultimately to illume the world. Land of 
promise, and land of wonders ! Long had I most 
anxiously desired to see it — to stand on its sacred 
hills, and traverse its once consecrated vales. That 
desire has now been gratified ; and it is with strong 
emotions of gratitude that I realize the special pro- 
tection of the Most High, during my late rambles 
amidst the principle scenery of the Bible. In the 
midst of that once sacred scenery, an open volume, 
written on the face of nature, as with the finger of 
the Almighty, illustrative of the truth of prophecy, 
was spread before me— a volume far more con- 
vincing than all the arguments drawn from human 
philosophy. This I would never forget ; and this 
sacred conviction may I cherish while reason holds 
the empire of my mind. And here, reader, we will 
take an affectionate leave of each other. 

THE END. 




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